kill switch 5th gen honda civic
 

For this one you need a normally closed push to open switch. I found a brake light switch at napa 10 bucks. Some wire, 18 gauge should be fine one male and 3 female spade connectors.
Attachment 5488
Attachment 5489
find the fuel injector relay under the dash to the left. It is a gray box as shown in the image. unplug the connector and then pull out the white wire holder in the back of the connector. A small flat head screwdriver applied to the ends where the white tabs show will free it. There is a black wire in the corner this is the ground, pull it out.

Run your length of wire, doubled, from where your switch will be to the relay. Two female spade connectors at the switch end.

Strip the insulation off one of the female spade connectors connect to one wire for the switch and place it in the connector where you pulled the black wire out, then replace the white wire holder.

Put the male spade connector on the other wire and plug it into the female connector on the black ground wire(s).

Secure your wires and attach the switch, all done.

Motor dies quickly you know it is dead when the red battery light comes on, restarts instantly with pop of clutch or turn of key. When you press the button the check engine light comes on then goes back off when you let go of the switch.

Basically this.

Does this mod kill the speedo and tach as well? or only the injectors?

The tach drops too zero quicker than the motor spins down but the speedo and odometrers are not inturupted.

I like the simplicity of this, very easy implement and to reverse
Has anyone else tried this and can confirm no issues or side effects.
thanks
Dennis

Running this setup for 6 months now with no side effects so far.

Still no side effects?
It kills all injectors !

How did you connect this to the dash?

Do you have any more photos? Thanks

11 months so far, still no side effects. This particular setup is essentially the same as turning your ignition key in the "off" position, instantly shutting off the injectors. The nice thing about this setup is that it does not wear out your ignition key.

My old setup was a switch that cut off the fuel pump only, but it was not as effective because the fuel pump would still run for about 7 seconds before it completely shut off, thus squirting bits of unburnt fuel into the combustion chamber.

The electrical connection is made to the car under the dash at the far left side of the car a small gray box labeled PGM FI. I ran the wires up under the dash with zip-ties to what ever, then to my shifter. I made a bracket out of aluminum to mount the switch to.

I have been running this set up for nearly a year. The car had 250,000 plus miles on it prior to me getting it, now it has at least 260000+ no side effects as far as I can see.

Me, personally, I dont have it connected to the dash. I just simply have 2 wires and the switch run under my dash, under the steering wheel, and then jnext to my radio, just laying next to my shifter.

I don't have pictures of it, but i'll take some tomorrow and post them up.

Not my setup, but I drew one for you of basically what it looks like.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...e/39201694.jpg

Would something like this work, connected the same way?
Maybe it could be additionally routed through an unused on/off switch in the dash for anti theft purposes.

http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/4/7/8...83713027_o.jpg

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KILL-...Q5fAccessories

Nice. Thanks very much.

Yeah, that would work. Or an auto parts store like autozone or o'reilys carry switches and wires.

anti-theft
 

What if you were to use a toggle switch instead and tuck it under the dash? Then I'm guessing you could switch it off until it kills the motor, then right back on, once you are ready you could pop the clutch or turn the key. Would this work? Then you could just leave it in the killed position as an anti-theft device when your parked

Yep, everything you said is what I do. When I want to EOC, I switch it off, then back on, then bump start with the clutch to start the engine again. This way I don't wear down the starter and ignition mechanism.

When I park the car, the switch can also double as an engine kill anti theft device.

Nothing special. Just 2 wires and a switch.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...r/IMAG0514.jpg

There's a fuse box under the dash to the left. Is that where the relay is?

As I don't ever use cruise control, maybe one of the buttons could be used for an anti theft deterrent, if I could figure out the wiring. I'd rather not use the k/s for that. Any suggestions are much appreciated.

Yes, the gray box/relay is beside the fuse box. Not sure about how to use your cruise for that. I finished mine a couple days ago with a toggle switch, then tucked it under the dash somewhere convenient to me, but not so obvious to anyone trying to steal my car! So when it's parked I just leave it "off", and also use it as my kill switch when driving, just flip it off, wait a sec then back on.

This is my first attempt to atach pics, so here it goes. . .
Here is a pic of the relay with harness unplugged, then the harness with the ground wire removed, then you see my wires running from the harness and from the ground wire which lead to the toggle switch (last photo):

4mula, thanks much for the awesome photos and explanation.

I'd like to have two switches, a kill switch for driving, and an anti-theft toggle.

That's a really nice toggle you're using. Where might I find one like that?

Glad it helped, but jedi_sol get's the credit for the explanation :)

2 switches just sounds like extra work to me but if you wanted to it would be simple, ex: if I were to add it to mine, I could just cut into ONE of the wires between my existing toggle and relay box, adding a toggle there would work. Just leave it on at all times for driving.

I got it at radio shack $2.99

I'm sure having a hard time finding a gray box by the fuse box. Does the fuse box pull out? Maybe the 99 honda is different? There are a few plugs in the fuse box, and one outside of it but it's blue, and it's hard to read and get to the connections under there. Details and ideas are appreciated.

VERY INTERESTING.....

in 96-2000 Civics, the pgm-fi is on the PASSENGER side.

Sorry for misleading you this whole time. I guess me and 4mula/bestclimb have older pre 96 civics.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...aylocation.gif

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m...pgmfirelay.jpg

Jedi, thank you very much. You guys are awesome.

I'll see if I can find it tomorrow. :D

I took off the glove compartment door, popped off the little side panel, and there's a gray box that looks like pgm-F1 and has the following information.

CME corporation
Relay Assy. Main
RZ - 0158
Mexico TEM 12v

Is this it? There's an orange colored plug in the bottom, that has 2 green, 2 yellow, 2 striped, and 1 black wire going into it. I popped off the plug but think that's not necessary to pull out the wire. Is there any way I can make sure this is the right wire, for example trying to start the car with it out?

Then I pull out the black wire (with pliers) and insert the wires for the k/switch, yes?

How can the k/switch be routed through the base of the shifter?

It looks like I could put a (2nd) safety switch right behind the top of the glove compartment door.

One thing you can try. When my kill switch is ON, and i turn the key into the first position, I can hear my fuel pump priming up. If the kill switch is OFF, then I can't hear the fuel pump.

So you can try to disconnect the black wire, turn the key, if you don't hear the fuel pump, then that should be the correct wire.

Another thing you can try, is disconnect the black wire, when you turn the key into the first position, look at the yellow Check Engine Light in your gauge cluster. If the light turns on and stays on, then you've got the right cable. If it turns on, then turns of after a couple seconds, then its the wrong one.

The nice thing about bestclimb's particular write up, is that it doesn't involve any cutting of any OEM wires, so if you've got the wrong wire, just plug it back in.

In the mean time, im still trying to locate the schematics for the 1996-2000 civics somewhere online.

YES.

To route the wire through the base of the shifter is going to require you to remove the that whole cover. (the one with the cup holders and the shifter. From what I can see from interior pics online, its only a matter of 2-3 screws on both sides of the cover) But i don't own the car, so its pure speculation.

Some folks asked about side effects. I just had a coil and perhaps an ignition control module fail (I know coil was bad and replaced both). I do not know if it was from this mod or not. Only situation I can think of is that the coil being powered and not discharging caused it to burn out internally? This may not have been the reason for it as the car had an unknown amount over 250,000 miles on it when I acquired it. The cap and rotor were also corroded, which can cause an increase in resistance that can have a negative affect on the life of the coil.

I am well enough convinced that the mod is not the reason for the failed coil, enough that I have decided to keep my current instillation of the kill switch as described in the first post of this thread.

EDIT a little research shows that the coil and Ignition control module failure is fairly common for these cars due to inadequate cooling.

Could anyone do me a favor and take an amperage reading on how much power is going through the NC kill switch? I'm trying to size a the switch for a custom shift knob, and I need to know how much power is going through it. Otherwise, a relay will be needed.

pgm-f1 causes drain
 

If you're using this mod, I suggest switching your Ultragauge on and off 20 times (with the engine off) with 3 second pauses, and checking the drain in your battery. The pgm-f1 in my car used .05v each time it was switched back on, thus 20 times drained 1 full volt, causing the alternator to run more when using the kill switch, and lowered mpg.

I moved the kill switch to an injector wire under the hood, and the issue went away.