Latios - SV650SF
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Finally I have a fuel injected motorcycle! I got myself a 2008 Suzuki SV650SF. Liquid cooled, fuel injected V-twin, full fairings, twin spark heads, blah blah blah.
https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...9&d=1546382819 The modding begins! The bike came with what appears to be a Yoshimura full system, but I wanted a catalytic converter, so I ghetto rigged a stock pipe on there. The newer suzuki 650's come with a cat in the midpipe, but my generation has it in the muffler. It looks like crap and leaks exhaust, but it works.I did take it for a ride and confirmed the cat lights off. A gasket and band style clamps should fix the problems until I can get it welded, if I decide to go that route. https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...8&d=1546382813 I changed the oil and found the same filter situation as I had with my VFR 400, not compatible with a sandwich oil cooler/heater unless you get a special nut that likely no one makes. Threads are part of the block, so I would need a block from a model that came with the cooler/heater to install one. https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...0&d=1546382827 Some proposed mods: Engine: Shorten stock exhaust leaving CAT in place DL 650 cam swap(put SV exhaust on intake, put DL exhaust on exhaust)? ^Buy all DL cams to match timing easily^ DL 650 intake trumpets Hotter thermostat from 2003-2006 model Block radiator partially Block oil cooler completely Drivetrain: 17/42 gearing Michelin Road 5 tires Brake drag reduction springs Higher tire pressures Aero: Aero front fender(might need front fork swap for options) Space fairings out at end to ensure complete leg coverage Rear tire hugger(pyramid?) Comfort: Lowered pegs Tank rubber(also for tank protection) Better seat Other: TeeRiver Fuelbot Hoping to hit 100 MPG! |
Looking good man! Just curious, but why add the OEM cat back on? Wouldn’t the exhaust restrictions make the engine less efficient?
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If it has a full Yosh system on it, you are going to want to put a full factory system back on it. Typically aftermarket performance exhaust systems are going to have large diameter header pipes. You aren't going to want that for maximum efficiency.
Could also bump the heat range of the plugs up one if you plan to keep the revs way down. I'd go with a lighter full synthetic 5W-30 cycle oil like Motul 300V (pretty sure you can get it in a cycle oil). A taller windscreen may help also. Rear fender and grab bar should go... |
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Tires showed up. Finally...
Will be mounting them up tomorrow at work. https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...1&d=1546487752 17/42 Sprockets and a DID(?) chain on their way. Thermostat and DL650 parts come later. Quote:
Some exhaust pictures: Back of stock pipes https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...2&d=1546487762 Side of stock pipes https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...3&d=1546487767 Back of Yoshi https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...4&d=1546487772 Side of Yoshi https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...5&d=1546487779 Quote:
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Looking good!
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The tubing wall thickness may be different between the factory and Yosh systems, but it sounds like they are close. Rear fender removal would be mostly for aero reasons. I never used the grab bar. Even with the blocked cooling a hotter plug may still help with combustion efficiency at low RPMs. Flush mount front signals and smaller more areo mirrors would be an improvement. You will need to pull out all the stops to get to 100 MPG with the SV, but it should be interesting. |
Nice bike mate!
Safe rides That is a very interesting project, keep us updated please |
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First tank was some putting around the neighborhood, spirited twisties, and 70+ mph highway plus a good amount of tucking. 70.4 MPG. It is important to mention that this was a slight overfill. I had the radiator blocked a little more than halfway, but the 60-65 degree ambient temperature was enough to keep coolant temps around high 190s. I went down to 1/4 block to keep temps around 170. Oil cooler was probably 80% blocked.
Michelin road 5s are on and scrubbed in. They had been ridden for 40 miles or so before the twisties, so I can't comment on warmup time, however, once they were there, they performed excellently. I never slipped on them, and they gave enough confident traction to allow me to scrape the exhaust clamp bolts! I thought I had finally scraped pegs, guess not! https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...8&d=1546813925 The matching set of road 5s is definitely a better fit than the road 5 front and Shinko raven rear on my brother's SV. The other setup needs more bar effort to crank it over, the road 5 set feels more natural. That Shinko, despite being a rather flat profile still gave good grip when leaned over. Wet roads were the only situation where I doubted that tire. Quote:
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I still have two other motorcycles that need to be ridden, and as they are carbureted, they should be ridden often to keep problems at bay. It may take a while before I can run another tank through this thing. |
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17T front sprocket installed with new chain. The 42T rear sprocket is still on the way, might take a while.
https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...4&d=1546982331 I didn't get the rubber cushioned sprocket, so it is a little louder. https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...5&d=1546982335 There really is a ton of room for front sprockets on this bike. Even the 17T has plenty of room. An 18T would probably fit. https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...6&d=1546982338 This is the closest hard part to the chain, at the closest it will ever get, as long as it isn't loose. As I discovered when reassembling it, the closest thing to the chain is not a hard part, but the cable for the sidestand switch. I ziptied it to another cable to help keep it further away, but I don't know how well it is working. https://ecomodder.com/forum/attachme...7&d=1546982342 As far as riding impressions, I like it! The tach shows roughly a 500 RPM drop at 45 MPH. I can use 4th gear at neighborhood speeds, but I have to be careful to not drop below 25 MPH or it gets too rattly. Haven't gone on the highway yet, but it should be much the same, a more pleasant and less buzzy experience. Dropping below 2200 indicated in higher gears results in rattling, the rattling is a little more prominent now that the gearing is taller, so the load is higher for the same RPM. Pulling away from a stop is just fine with the taller gearing. Low speed traffic will suck i'm sure though. My brother's SV can get away with lower RPM before being rattly, so i'll have to check out the chain tension on that bike and compare it to mine. Maybe mine needs a throttle body sync or something. Hopefully the DL650 cams and velocity stacks will improve low RPM rideability. Gearingcommander.com says the 17/45 will be at 4512 RPM at 70 MPH, which is already lower than my dad's VFR 800 which does 4820 at 70. The 17/45 setup is 11.76% taller, and the 17/42 will be 17.64% taller. |
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