Looking for 2nd car.. Geo Metro info requested..
Hi there..
It's been a while since I've lurked on here.. I've been thinking of getting a Geo Metro because I have a feeling this summer is going to be ridiculous for gas prices.. I'm interested in a hatchback 5 speed with a/c and I'm unsure of what other options were available with these cars.. I know about the rust issues involved with the front lower control arms so I think I'm covered there.. What else should I be looking for? If I want a/c, would the 1.0 3cyl be too dodgy or should I roll with the 1.3 4cyl? Was there ever a cruise control option? I'd like to get the newest Geo/Chevy Metro available. Anyone know a good source for information on purchasing one of these? Thanks :thumbup: |
I'd go for the 3-cyl, and toggle the AC off for freeway entrances and steep climbs if traffic was heavy, and I really wanted to keep up. The pre-95 ones are smaller and lighter, with the XFI option. If not rusty, their only drawback is interior noise, IMHO. I use a headset sound system to cut the noise and save big bucks on stereo gear and protection of same.
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Thanks Bob..
are there any better engine configurations? I'd like to stick with fuel injection, was there ever a throttle body injected or multi port fuel injection setup that were good or ones better than the other? I'm not a fan of cold starts on a carburated engine.. |
I'm not sure about pre-89s, but mine have throttle body injection and start right up at -25 without a block heater. The system is pretty much the same from there to the end of production. They are easy to work on, and there are dedicated groups to advise you about mix 'n' match. For super economy, you can use larger wheels and/or a low-ratio transmission from an XFI or an 8-valve model. Used ones often just need the world's easiest ring and valve job, but while you're at it you can drop in an XFI or aftermarket cam to pull the tall gears to fabulous numbers.
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All 1989 and up 3-cyl Metros are TBI. 4-cyl Metros (and SOHC Swifts) were TBI up to 1997, then went multiport after that.
No factory cruise control. Geo Metro Forum - I can't drive 55 - seriously! TeamSwift • Index page |
I'd like to get a Metro thats OBDII in terms of electronics for easy diagnosis..
It would also be nice to pop in my SGII into it and get some real readings logged in.. What was the first year of MPFI and OBDII? |
All 96+ vehicles are OBDII. Its pretty rare you'll find any car thats 95 or older running OBDII.
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Installing an aftermarket cruise control is an easy Saturday afternoon's work. There'll be a few taps to install, but nothing difficult. I've done Equus and Audiovox, if you go with one of those I recommend the Audiovox.
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I've installed an audiovox cruise on a honda insite once, those are easy to setup..
Was there ever a cruise option when Chevy rebadged the metro? Where can I find a breakdown of what comes with what per model? Were power windows and locks ever an option? power steering? I appreciate all the Q&A guys! |
I'm not sure if power windows or locks were ever offered. I've never seen them on a Metro. Some 1989-1994 Suzuki Swift GTs had them, but the parts won't fit the newer Metros. All of the following applies to the "new" 1995-2001 cars. If you want MPFI, you'll have to get a Metro/Swift with the 4-cyl engine from 1998 or newer. If you want maximum fuel economy and OBDII, get a 1996+ 3-cyl Metro hatchback. There are very few options on these cars. Some had ABS. Some had a tachometer. Some had trip odometers. Metro hatchbacks were sold with both 3 & 4-cyl engines. Sedans were 4-cyl only. 3-cyl 5-spd had a 4.39 final drive, 4-cyl 5-spd had a 3.79 final drive. Automatic was only an option on the 4-cyl, avoid it. Power steering was an option on the 4-cyl sedan. Some of the '95-'97 Metros had recessed sealed beam headlights. Swifts were all 4-cylinder hatchbacks.
The "new" cars have another rust problem not found on the older models. The front section of the rear wheelwells rot out. |
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much appreciated.. :thumbup: how oddball is a 3cyl 5 speed with a/c? |
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much appreciated.. :thumbup: how oddball is a 3cyl 5 speed with a/c? |
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Are there different years where it used a slave cylinder for
a hydraulic clutch vs a regular cable actuated setup? I'm just thinking about this for my backs sake :) ::crosses fingers:: |
The 1.3L 5 speed is good on gas, not quite as good as the 1.0, but if you need the extra "hamster" you have it.
A/C isn't that rare nor is it super popular, but do you really need it? Get an XFi if you can. If you can't, get the 3.79/.59 transmission, 3tech economy cam, +10 cam gear and you should be good. Lower it an inch or two, block the grille, and you should be good. |
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I looked at a Chevy Metro listing on autozone and that vs the older Geo cars didn't have a cable listed for replacment, absolutly all cable actuated? Quote:
Humidity sucks out here in the summer time also.. Isn't the XFi an older model? older than 1996 (pre OBDII?) If I regear it with the trans, cam and cam gear, will it be less powerfull or more torquey? :confused: I'd be thrilled to death just to have a 35mpg combined vehicle.. :) |
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XFi was only in the older body style. |
Well if your happy with 35 mpg then you could get any metro they all get above that. I have an XFI and the noise inside is alittle loud but worth it I can get 50mpg with the gas all the way to the floor but most of the time I drive slow and get In the 60s. The 3cylinder 5 speed is the only way to go I think if you get a 3.79 or 3.59 trans you will lose fast take off speeds but will gain probably around 10mpg. The xfi cam or the custom one from 3tech helps with mpg and low end power so if going to a taller trans I would put one in. Obd1 or obd2 these cars are very simple and easy to work on after 96 the cars were a little heavier so they lose a little mpg but not much it really just depends on what you want. Good luck shopping.
Oh and powersteering in a geo wouldn't be worth it they are light and very easy to steer |
Dude, the Metros are lighter and easier to steer than my MK2 Golf... and I can steer that while parked from lock to lock with two fingers.
If you have trouble with manual steering racks, try adjusting the caster angle of the wheels a bit. The more caster angle, the easier to steer (less tire scrub while steering). |
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