Lugs for 12" studs that work for 13" wheels?
 

I posted this in my thread about the wheels, but it's kinda old and got buried.

I'm wondering if there's any aftermarket lugs that will fit the studs for my 12" wheels but that will work (better) for the 13" rims.

I've heard that the holes in the 13" rims are a bit bigger. I'd rather not screw around with washers or anything if I don't have to... and actually pulling the wheel assembly from the car with the 13's isn't an option.

I'm not sure what I need to be looking for so am hoping someone can fill me in on the specs (e.g. stud size and hole size?).

Thanks!

i had a geo that i had 13's and even 14' rims on it .. i think i used the stock bolts on the 13" and had no problems with them..

lug nuts made for an atv will work :) Just go to a motorcycle/atv shop and get a few sizes and go outside and try them on the car till you find one that works. They are much cheaper than the oddball size that napa can get and are in stock pretty much anywhere. I am pretty sure they are 10mm but I don't know the thread pitch. The atv lug nuts have much wider shoulders so they mount up 13 or 14 inch rims just fine. It is also much easier than drilling the holes out for larger studs.

btw if you don't mind going to a 14 inch wheel the 90-96 honda accord has 14x6 that fit the car just fine.

14" on a metro that had 12 is a bad idea .. been there done that..
the 13" i had were from a old Toyota I believe

thanks coyote for the tip!!!

Just two days ago I replaced the 12 inch wheels on my 1994 metro with stock 13 inch metro wheels from a local junk yard, and I used the stock nuts that were on the metro with no problems. (Yes I had a hard time finding them, and no I don't know where there are any more 13 inch metro rims.)

CAUTION: This may not be safe in all cases so check it out carefully!

Because the cone shaped depressions in the new wheels are larger in diameter than in the old 12 inch wheel, the old smaller nuts will nest deeper into the new wheels, and will have less bearing surface between the cone of the nut and the cone of the wheel than would the larger special nuts available.

I checked and verified that the bearing surface between the nut and wheel was great enough, and that the nuts would not bottom out before contacting the wheel.

Without the wheel on, put the nuts on the studs and run them down all the way. Remember that the nuts can bottom against the threads or against the end of the nut, if it is a blind nut, as mine are.
Mine went all the down, with the end of the cone on the nut touching the drum, without binding or bottoming.

Place a nut in a cone of the wheel, lay a straight edge across the flats of the wheel, and verify that you have a gap between the tip of the cone end of the nut and the straight edge. I had about 1/16 of an inch on mine.

If in doubt, buy a set of the special nuts.

Team swift has a load of information on this and on on other wheels that will fit a metro, etc. at http://www.teamswift.net/viewforum.php?f=10

According to my 1994 factory service manual the wheel nuts should be torqued to 60-Nm (44 lb.ft). I always hand tighten them, and then re check them again a couple of times after driving a few miles. I won't let the guys at a tire shop get close to the metro with an air wrench. It already has some replacement wheel studs on the rear from previous owners, and I don't want to replace any more.