Metro pieces and parts
 

All my storehouse of useless knowledge relates to the VW Beetle. Now, in the 21st Century, I'm behind the wheel of a Geo Metro and a complete noob.

Two things on my mind to the moment:

• I need to paint the wheels and I'd like to get some center caps. The Metro cap is uninspiring, just a black nob. There are more interesting cap for the Tracker and Prizm. Will they fit the 13" Metro wheel?
• A major problem is the internal rain gutters. None of my three roof racks will fit. I see that there was an optional rack for the Metro convertible. Want To Buy.

Other related comments solicited.

Are you sure they're 13" wheels? The 89-94 Metro had 12" wheels originally. Full wheel covers were used on some models. Maybe all the non-XFi Metros. Prizm was a Toyota, so the caps probably won't fit. Caps from the Tracker are probably too big, but I've never tried one. Suzuki Swift center caps probably fit, but they're also just black knobs (with a fancy "S"). Pizza pans?

89-91 12" wheel covers on white
92-94 12" wheel covers on blue

Not any more. :)

155/80-12. The wheels need paint in any case. I'd only need two if I put [the planned] skirts on the back.

The decision would be easy in favor of these, if I had an edge roller to replace the flange. Then I would gang them together and shave them down from 15".

https://ecomodder.com/forum/member-f...1-100-0960.jpg

the best part a geo metro can have is a LS4 swap :eek:

I was thinking a genuine sheepskin seat cover.

But now you have me thinking this, the Lexus electric axle:
https://ecomodder.com/forum/member-f...mpare-size.jpg

It was slated for the 1958 Baja bug. I'm looking forward to see what Arcimoto's new battery tech initiative is like.

Here's a time dependent question.

The Metro was parked down the street in a supermarket parking lot while they're repaving the lane in front of my house. The battery was low (dashboard lights but the starter wouoldn't turn over) so I took it home and charged it overnight.

When I went back this morning, some benighted soul had run a self-drilling sheet metal screw into the ignition switch. They abandoned the project when they realized the battery was missing. And the wheels are turn to left lock and locked.

So I guess it will sit there two more nights and even then it looks like there are selfshearing bolts holding the switch in the steering column.

Any ideas on how to remove the buggered part?

If you're lucky, you'll be able to get the bolts to turn with a hammer and chisel. The next step might be cutting the heads off. Maybe take the steering column home to get the bolts out?

Bit confused.... the self drilling screw is to bypass the key lock or to prevent you from using the car?

If they were attempting to steal it: continue their processes with the charged battery I would think. If they were being jerks, this is gonna be exasperating.

Who the heck needs to steal a metro? Even worse, who the fark needs to bugger up freebeards ride and why?

I suspect that the self-tapping screw was used with a slide hammer, since the head had been broken off.

And since the slide hammer was gone, but not the socket wrench and a keyring with house keys and one GM key they probably tried first, I suspect mood enhancing substances at play.

Has anyone R&Red the ignition switch? DuckDuckGo finds results that suggests it's in there with bolts that shear off the head so they can't be removed.

I'l know more once I find a tow truck company that answers their phone.

Drill the remains to remove, use regular screws on the replacement switch. I hate thieves!

How about incompetent thieves? It could have been gone otherwise.

My neighbor says he has an extractor and he used to work on his father's Metro.

At the moment, I'm trying to get a tow company to return my calls. It will roll around in a circle but that's it.

Look at the date on that last post. The ignition switch housing is in the hands of a 'mechanic' I don't know and have no way of reaching.

The removal was actually pretty painless. Someone had been in there before and the headless bolts had very professional slots cut in them for a screwdriver. Presently the steering column is re-secured but the turn signal switch and the actual ignition switch are dangling on cables under the dash. I can turn the switch with a smol screwdriver so the lights come on, but turning to start has no effect.

So I could light it up and bump start it, but I'd rather not.

There exist two blanking plates on the dash to either side of the steering column. I could see a red button in one for start and maybe a generic ignition switch in the other. What do all y'all think?

I wouldn't miss the column lock, but I need the housing back because it holds the turn signal switch.

A start button and a generic ignition switch would work fine. Or a generic ignition switch with a start position would be better. Remember the clutch pedal interlock, just jump the two wires if you are the only driver. Of course the clutch pedal is the best theft deterrent these days.
I got rid of all my Metro parts many years ago.

I've no idea what the clutch pedal interlock is. There is a switch I believe to be the key in/open door buzzer. I'll try shorting that next.

Yesterday I rode the city bus across town and a prior bus was out of service and surrounded by police vehicles (A big white van with Forensic Evidence Unit painted on the side).

I just like the idea of a separate red button. Else I could put a switch under the clutch pedal like an old pickup truck I drove. Now that would be anti-theft.

The car came with a switch that looks like a brake light switch only it was on the clutch pedal. That switch is the only thing between the starter and the ignition switch on the start circuit.

I have a gutted ignition switch housing if you just want a turn signal mount. And I have a complete switch housing that I can probably (maybe!) find the key for.

[waves at New York State]

Thanks. I'll settle for just getting the one on the other side of town back. Then we'll see if it's repaired. That was the plan.

I could add underhood insulation while I'm waiting.

The guy that took my switch housing and disappeared hasn't returned; but Santa Claus broght me a whole steering column.

The original switch housing had pre-slotted twist-off bolts, but the new one doesn't.

So how do people do that? For clearance sake, a rotary tool could only have 3/4" diameter or a linear tool could only have 1/2" throw.

It looks to me like the easiest solution would be to weld a bolt on, turn it out and then get hex-head replacements.

In most service manuals, drilling the head is recommended. If you're cutting a slot, cutting into the clamp a little is fine. I think I got these bolts out once by putting vise grip jaws on the top of the head and the other end of the bolt. Assuming it protrudes a little. I don't remember what car I did that on. I don't feel like going outside to look at a Metro column! Maybe tomorrow.

IIRC the drill press was where I was headed when the mechanic said he could fix it or at least remove the lock cylinder.

The new switch was [apparently] soldered directly to the cable, whereas the 1990 model has push-on connectors.

But it's raining so I don't want to go outside and check. :)