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Old 05-27-2008, 11:41 PM   #141 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by AndrewJ View Post
Got my 'Guino hooked up in the car.
Sweet!

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Originally Posted by AndrewJ View Post
Would someone mind "decoding" all the little icons and abbreviations for me?
I tried to capture that info here, but there is still a lot to sort through:
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Originally Posted by dcb View Post
Screens:...
Raw displays inj open Seconds, inj open microSeconds, injector count, vss count...
Maybe the wiki version will be easier to navigate. The main and formatted screens are defined there also, but it is all subject to change as we havent really talked much about the screens yet.

Main displays instant and current mpg and tank miles and gallons (in order).

"IC001.54"? hmm...

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Old 05-27-2008, 11:46 PM   #142 (permalink)
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"IC001.54"? hmm...
Yeah, I wouldn't be surprised at all to figure out that I have the INJ and VSS wires switched and/or have the wrong INJ wire....

More stuff to sort through on my next day off.

Thanks for the reply dcb. You're doing a fracking amazing job!
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Old 05-28-2008, 11:17 AM   #143 (permalink)
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Well I'm back on the Opengauge project after my vacation. Just before my vacation I was driving around with my Opengauge proto and it just turned off. I tried hooking it up last night to my computer and I couldn't get it to do anything. I think I fried the ATmega chip. I don't know what I did exactly. It could be the fact that I don't have the constant power hookup yet.

For those Honda owners out there. What have you rigged up in the past do get constant power from the battery? Is there an easy hookup? It looks like there might not be a constant power from the ECU but I'm not totally sure.
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Old 05-28-2008, 12:03 PM   #144 (permalink)
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no power LED even? Got a voltmeter? See if you are getting 12 volts the the 7805. If so, see if you are getting 5 volts out of the 7805. If not then replace the 7805 (the shack should have one for a buck or two) and let us know that was what broke if you would, we might need to condition the power a tad if so.
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Old 05-28-2008, 12:15 PM   #145 (permalink)
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I'll give that a check tonight with my multimeter. I have a feeling we might need to condition the power anyway because I imagine different car manufacturers will vary on power.
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Old 05-28-2008, 12:27 PM   #146 (permalink)
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I'm curious about the conditioning part. The 7805 should handle that, it's rated for up to 33v (I think), it should be doing that part.

Since you are working with your prototype, is it possible something shorted out some pins? (That's why I wanted mine in an enclosure before I take it on the road)

Did you possibly over-rev and send a surge? I used to have an old Subaru that would blow a fuse if you over reved.

What about the board? Any discoloration or scorching? Anything look melted?

That's why I asked if anyone was fusing their power input and if so, at what amperage? Any concern from shorting out the Guino adversely affecting the automobile?
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Old 05-28-2008, 01:09 PM   #147 (permalink)
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Alright, well it's time to dive in. I just ordered the Freeduino serial (on sale for $14.50 - I think there's only 5 left at that price now). I've got a 20x4 non-backlit LCD w/ the same base chipset so that should be enough for testing for now. I should have most of the additional parts needed for the buttons, etc. in my parts bin, though I'm not sure if I've got zeners. Rat shack is right around the corner though.

So now while its on its way, what information do I need to find out about my car? I've got an '05 Subaru Impreza, and I should be able to get the dirty details out on nasioc.com (huge Subaru/Impreza internet forum). Just need to know what questions to ask. What details do I need to find out about my injectors, and pinouts on the ECU? I've got the factory service manual for my car, so pinouts should be fairly easy to look up.

Oh, and if anyone else has an Impreza, lemme know and I'll be glad to share my findings.
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Old 05-28-2008, 02:08 PM   #148 (permalink)
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Old 05-28-2008, 05:52 PM   #149 (permalink)
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Here's an idea for constant power for the Opengauge.

Cigarette Lighter adapter plugs with leads/connectors

Frys:
http://shop3.frys.com/product/191604...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG

RadioShack:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search
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Old 05-28-2008, 06:01 PM   #150 (permalink)
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Personally, I like this one:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

It's got a 7.5A mini-fuse built into the side, replaceable with anything lower if wanted. It uses two spring connectors (similar to stereo wire quick connectors) and has a nice little form factor that isn't as obtrusive as the banana jack one.

Either way, one thing to realize is that not all cars keep the cigarette lighter jack constantly powered. Mine only comes on w/ ACC and IGN and will turn off during a crank. Many Japanese cars are like this, where I've noticed most American trucks are constant. In-between is a crapshoot.

Depending on the current requirements for the 'guino, the backside of all radio harnesses have a const. +12V and ground (typically the yellow wire) used to power the radio memory when the car is off. Less than an amp or two *should* be safe to tap from this line. Beyond this, I'd run to the battery directly (be sure to fuse any wire at the wire's top rating or lower when running from the battery to prevent shorts and fire). Most cars have a convenient firewall rubber grommet you can punch through somewhere above the pedals.

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