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-   -   MPGuino release one workspace (https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mpguino-release-one-workspace-2115.html)

dcb 05-02-2008 06:10 AM

For the latest info, please go to the wiki
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino

The information in this post is no longer being maintained

MPGuino is part of the OpenGauge instrumentation effort, which was created to make available efficiency instrumentation of all sorts. MPGuino specifically is a Miles Per Gallon gauge for fuel injected vehicles that is based on the arduino platform with some extra circuitry for monitoring the fuel injectors and the speed sensor in the vehicle.

This is the workspace for the mpguino release one, where we can sort out the final issues. The first post here will be updated with diagrams till someone runs with the wiki parts. The change log will be posted at the end of the posts as changes occur. This does require some electronical and a minute bit of automotive skill to identify and utilize the hookup points and assemble the electronics so proceed at your own risk.

I do ask that once we get this reasonably stable that users contribute to the knowledge base of how to install it in a specific car and what parameters worked well for that car so that new users can hopefully just lookup the vehicle specifics, or add theirs once they figure out the proper parameters.

Current status: In vehicle testing in progress... We are still working out the bugs in the software and possibly the hardware. The source code is available from here , just copy and paste it into the arduino ide( Arduino - HomePage ).

Some of the skills required
Identifying the right injector leads with a volt meter.
Identifying the vss with schematics/ECU diagrams/online tools.
Identifying battery power source with a schematic and/or voltmeter.
Soldering.
Chasing a wire or two through the firewall.
Possibly making updates to the circuit if we can't find a software solution to any problems that are exposed, etc.)
Being able to reprogram the device when we do find software solutions, or new features.


Parts List:
2 5.1v zener diodes
1 2n3906 PNP Transistor
1 220 ohm resistor
2 100k resistors
3 tactile switches
1 freeduino arduino clone (any arduino can probably be made to work)
i.e. an iduino: http://spiffie.org/kits/iduino/ or a Freeduino
1 LCD (others might work as well, check pinout and chipset, etc).
16x2 LCD Module While Characters Blue Backlight
Or a green one from sparkfun or mouser
(a number of folks like the green ones better)

Note: If you would rather work with the CPU directly and can figure out how to program it from arduino IDE then have a at the schematic in this thread:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...html#post32427 and skip the wiring diagram below because you will need to build the whole thing from scratch.


Wiring diagrams:
For the arduino style boards:
LCD is upside down in this diagram. All seems to be working well in the hardware department.
http://opengauge.googlecode.com/svn/...ino/wiring.GIF

For the iDuino style boards:
Will need to procure a 7805 voltage regulator a 1n4004 diode, a 330 uf cap and a .1uf cap.
http://opengauge.org/diympggauge/iDuino.GIF

For the do it yourselfer:
refer to the diagrams in the http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...html#post32427 thread


Prototype:
Here is the prototype I'm using (serial freeduino and 16x2 blue lcd hot glued to a piece of thick balsa, with a component board for the transistors/etc. and any extra wire smashed out of the way)

http://opengauge.org/diympggauge/serialguino.jpg

And here is a model built from scratch
http://opengauge.org/diympggauge/scratch.JPG

Screens:
1. Instant MPG/Speed
Current MPG/Distance

2. Instant MPG/Speed
Tank MPG/Distance

3. Large font instant MPG

4. Large font current MPG

5. Large font tank MPG

6. Current MPH, MPG, Miles, Gallons

7. Tank MPH, MPG, Miles, Gallons

8. Instant Raw Data (very useful for connection troubleshooting)
Injector open seconds, Injector open microSeconds,
Injector pulse count, Vehicle Speed Sensor pulse count

9. Current trip Raw Data
Injector open seconds, Injector open microSeconds,
Injector pulse count, Vehicle Speed Sensor pulse count

10. Tank trip Raw Data
Injector open seconds, Injector open microSeconds,
Injector pulse count, Vehicle Speed Sensor pulse count

11. CPU Monitor
Max CPU %utilization, Tank running Time mm.ss,
Free Memory (bytes)

There is also a setup screen that displays the first time the program is run and by pressing all three buttons at once. It walks you through the following setup variables. Use left and right buttons to select the digit you wish to change or the OK or Cancel (XX) items. Use middle button to rotate the current digit or select OK or XX if that is where the cursor is. Selecting OK will save the currently displayed value to the current variable and advance to the next variable. Selecting XX will just advance to the next variable.

Contrast - This comes up first on a brand new run and changes on the screen are immediate so if you can't see anything try pressing middle button a few times.

VSS Pulses/Mile - use this to adjust displayed speed/miles. If the speed/miles displayed on the mpguino is low then decrease this number by the percentage that it is off and vice versa for high readings. Most asian cars will be a multiple of 8204 and GM will be 10000, we are hoping users will contribute model specific data here.

MicroSec/Gallon - use this to adjust displayed fuel consumption. You may want to readjust this initially to get a ballpark MPG reading (after VSS Pulses/Mile is deemed accurate), then calibrate it with a couple fillups. If the mpguino displayed MPG is high or the displayed tank gallons is low at fillup then reduce MicroSec/Gallon by the percentage that the gallons are low or the displayed mpg is high. Like the vss pulses, this would benefit from user contributions about what values work for what specific cars.


Pulses/2 revs - not currently used, but a single injector on a 4 cylinder sequential system will make 1 squirt in 2 revolutions. Hope to be able to base RPM on this at some point.

Timout(microSec) - defaults to 7 minutes. If there are no injector or speed signals from the car and no buttons are pressed in that time then the display backlight turns off. When activity resumes the display will turn back on and the current trip will reset and the tank trip will be restored to the point of last activity.

Tank Gal * 1000 - not currently used, but defaults to 13300 or 13.3 gallons.

Injector DelayuS - Represents the mechanical delay of the injector in microseconds. Advanced topic.

Buttons:
Current button assignments as follows,
left: cycle through screeens in reverse
middle: cycle through pre-defined brightness settings
right: cycle through screeens forward
left+middle: tank reset
right+middle: current reset
left+middle+right: go to setup screen

Installation notes:
For Identifying where to tap into the fuel injector:
1. turn on the ignition, leave engine off.
2. Unplug an injector.
3. With a voltmeter, measure the voltage on each injector connection. One should be 12 volts and the other should be more like 0. You will want to tap into the one that is at 0 volts.

For finding the VSS hookup, there are several approaches, but at the bottom of
Technical Support is a tool that might help you identify the VSS wire location and color. Also here is another online source of ECU pinouts, I'm sure there are more: ECU Pin-out Diagrams :: Innovate Motorsports Application Notes

IMPORTANT, you must be very deliberate when hooking up the mpguino to your cars battery power. There have been several cases where people had to reflash their atmegas and it is noted in the datasheet that the flash memory can be corrupted if the power requirements are interrupted. So line up those pins and get it hooked up the first shot.

On my saturn I tapped into an injector ground lead, and used ground and battery voltage and speedo (possibly vss) signal from the ecu plugs.
http://opengauge.org/diympggauge/saturnhookup.GIF


Here are some shots of hooking up the prototype on a saturn. I got lucky with the splice clips on the power but had to trim the insulation (carefully) on the injector lead and vss lead and solder the connection. I also had the wrong vss lead, so don't go by color here. But it was straight forward, and pinching through an existing rubber grommet in the firewall with a piece of coathanger was easy so I could get to the injector tap.

http://opengauge.org/diympggauge/hookup1.JPG
http://opengauge.org/diympggauge/hookup2.JPG
http://opengauge.org/diympggauge/hookup3.JPG
http://opengauge.org/diympggauge/hookup4.JPG
http://opengauge.org/diympggauge/hookup5.JPG
http://opengauge.org/diympggauge/hookup6.JPG
http://opengauge.org/diympggauge/hookup7.JPG
http://opengauge.org/diympggauge/hookup8.JPG

Metro installation
FYI, here is the hookup points in a 98 metro
VSS:
http://opengauge.org/diympggauge/metro1.JPG
Injector:
http://opengauge.org/diympggauge/metro2.JPG


Source code:
Work in progress, just cut and paste into the arduino ide. Available from here

larrydag 05-02-2008 08:00 AM

dcb, you are just a maverick with this project. Keep up the great work.

When I get free time I'll give it a go. One thing I will need help with is the VSS and Injector interface hookup with the car. I've never done anything like that before. I understand we are getting most of the pulses from the ECU. If anyone has a good howto on that setup would be great.

SVOboy 05-04-2008 11:12 PM

Keep up the great work man, when I'm out of school I'll be playing catch up and getting one running in my CRX.

Coyote X 05-04-2008 11:43 PM

Makes me wish I would have already ordered the supplies for this so I could test it out :)

larrydag 05-05-2008 09:25 AM

dcb, what are you using for the ground connection. Are you going back to the *duino?

Also we probably are going to need to look at hooking up a battery since you mentioned that might be the preferred method. It will require some more parts but I don't think it will be much.

Here is a link to the Arduino site with 9V battery setup.

http://www.arduino.cc/playground/Lea...BatteryAdapter

diesel_john 05-05-2008 01:43 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by larrydag (Post 22857)
When I get free time I'll give it a go. One thing I will need help with is the VSS and Injector interface hookup with the car. I've never done anything like that before. I understand we are getting most of the pulses from the ECU. If anyone has a good howto on that setup would be great.


Normally the injectors will all have a red wire, this is not the wire you want, it is 12v power. You want the other wire going to an injector, the one that is grounded by the ECU to turn on the injector.
Does this help, should I take some pics. Also detailed text attached.

larrydag 05-05-2008 01:59 PM

diesel_john, that looks great. I was thinking to just use pinouts from the ECU. Is that possible also?

dcb 05-05-2008 04:46 PM

(edit, despite the below, I'm going to tap the injector lead directly)
I'm planning on starting at the ECU, but it requires knowing what is where on a particular ECU, which may require some decent documentation or some probing around with a multi meter. Here is a late 90s saturn s-series, with 4 hookup points (vss, injector 1, battery, ground) for example:
http://planetchampions.org/diympggauge/saturnhookup.GIF

dcb 05-05-2008 11:46 PM

Update, I put a board together to hold the extra components (3 transistors, misc resistors, etc) no luck with the brightness control so far :(
Edit: lowering the 100k resistor to 430 ohms fixed that :)
Edit: I looked up the 2n3906, and it looks like extreme limit of base current would have the the minimum value for the resistor at 86 ohms. 100 ohms would give you a little safety cushion.


http://planetchampions.org/diympggau...hterboard1.JPG

http://planetchampions.org/diympggau...hterboard2.JPG

dcb 05-06-2008 05:24 AM

I'm running out of excuses to not just try this :) The component board is secure for now, the wires will get trimmed to length later. The injector signal goes to the leftmost blue terminal block and the vss goes to the one next to it. Car battery voltage goes to the external power jack. The other terminal blocks are ground and 5v for convenience (not enough ground and 5v pins to go around). Note: for the arduino connections, I just tin the ends of the wires with solder so they fit snugly in the pin sockets when pushed in, takes a little practice.

http://planetchampions.org/diympggauge/proto.JPG

cmags 05-07-2008 03:42 PM

Looks to be coming along nicely
 
So this project seems to be coming along quite nicely. I see a very reasonable schematic and good code. How close do you think you are to actually testing this in car and having a functioning MPG meter? I'm trying to decide on waiting for this and building one myself, or hopping in on that $135 ScanGuageII group buy going on in the forum. I have until Tuesday to decide. (Though I may pick up the SG and sell it later if this turns out to be sufficient for my needs).

One final question - in regards to the calibration techniques mentioned - they all seem to start out with a "guess". Are they suggesting that the guess is for initial calibration and then finer calibration is required later? I may not have read closely enough (and I haven't yet read the code), but I didn't see where the fine calibration comes in.

Thanks again for all the work being put into this. It's certainly looking good! :thumbup:

larrydag 05-07-2008 04:02 PM

cmags, I don't know for certain but there is still some considerable testing to be done. Getting the hardware configured is just step one. I don't know if anyone has fired it up in their car yet. Troubleshooting the code and working with the car is going to be step two. If you need to decide by Tuesday than the Opengauge is probably not going to be done by then.

Other than that we could always use a another hand in helping with the project! :)

i_am_socket 05-07-2008 04:26 PM

I'm loving the progress on this :-) The SG has way more options than I need at a price I don't need as well, and this project is the barebones I'm looking for. What is the general guestimation of beta hardware completion? Is there a list of milestones?

I'd love to help but my only experience with electronics is splicing wires and a failed DIY walkman kit. I'll look through the code, but the language is a bit foreign to me (I do mostly web/database work in PHP & Javascript)

dcb 05-07-2008 11:53 PM

cmags, re: calibration:
After the initial guess, the version we have here will benefit from a "true up" when you refill your car. Basically you
1. top off the tank
2. note your milage on the odo
3. reset the guino
4. drive for hundreds of miles
5. go to the same pump at the same station pointing in the same direction (same time of day/temperature would be nice)
6. fill up the tank to the same spot/number of clicks
7. note the change in mileage on the odo, see if it matches the miles on the guino
8. note the gallons it took to fillup the car, see if it matches the gallons on the guino

If 7 or 8 aren't reasonably close, then note the percentage that the reading is off and adjust the vssPulsesPerMile (for 7) or injectorGPH (for 8) at the top of the source code (at the top of this thread) by that percentage and reload it onto the guino.



Eventually we hope to have enough data from enough different types of cars that people can get a pretty good first guess based on their vehicle, but even a bad guess will give you a relative reading that you can use to see if you are improving or not.

Also we hope to utilize these buttons and add menus and such with future software upgrades so you can calibrate it in the car, but we are gunning for a simple working mpg gauge at the moment (with maybe a few nice features):
http://forum.ecomodder.com/showthrea...9.html?p=22751

http://planetchampions.org/diympggauge/spartan1.JPG

cmags 05-08-2008 10:07 AM

Thanks for the update, dcb. I guess the good "guess" will definitely still be useful as a relative gauge, and tuning it up via tanks will be fine. (By the way, is there any knowledge out there about how consistent even the same pump is at turning off at the same point?) It'll definitely be close enough.

In terms of having this ready by early next week, I understand that wouldn't have been do-able. I just need to decide whether to wait on this or jump on the SG by then. I've got a trip from Atlanta to Boston and back coming up in June and would like to have some sort of MPG meter by then to try to keep my fuel costs under the projected $500 (~$50/tank, baseline of 300mi/tank, 1200mi each way, plus driving around for two weeks visiting friends and family). I'm taking steps to improve my mileage, but the feedback will be key in that.

I'll prob. jump on the SG anyway, but I love DIY's so something like this is right up my alley. The SG has a number of other features that I'm interested in, such as the code reader, and intake temps etc (useful in gauging whether a grill block is overheating the car). If the *duino platform matures enough to be able to be able to string peripherals off it, I'm all for it.

Thanks again, and keep up the good work. I'll be keeping an eye on this project.

MetroMPG 05-08-2008 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcb (Post 24421)
05/08/08 Couple of code tweaks and a test run in the car (97 saturn s2) was promising. The miles reading is in the ballpark, but the gallons was at least an order of magnitude off. Also everything was in whole numbers, will need to include floating point routines or device an integer based strategy.

Woohoo for first test run! Congrats. :D

dcb 05-08-2008 11:27 PM

Here's a couple pics.
I scrounged up a quick and dirty bit of hookup parts from the garage and hooked it up today:
http://planetchampions.org/diympggauge/hookupkit.JPG

The mileage reading was suprizingly not horribly far off, gallons needs work, as does fractional numbers.
http://planetchampions.org/diympggauge/runeonea.jpg

At night that LED is a killer, I think we will be glad to have brightness control :)
http://planetchampions.org/diympggauge/runeoneb.jpg

larrydag 05-09-2008 12:00 AM

pic of my Opengauge
 
1 Attachment(s)
Here is my working prototype. This was the best picture I could get. dcb, you're going to have to tell me how you got to hookup with your ECU. Did you go to the external ODB connector or did you splice into the main connector.

by the way, if anyone has experience with Honda ECU's let me know. My ECU is 37820-P0B-A51

MetroMPG 05-09-2008 12:06 AM

I may be mistaken, but Schultz may have access to a db with ECU pinouts...

larrydag 05-09-2008 12:16 AM

Thanks Metro but I can get the pinouts. I just don't know how to connect to the thing. It's a closed box except for the big 3 connectors to the pinouts. Any ideas?

MetroMPG 05-09-2008 07:49 AM

Well, if you mean: "what's the best way to connect to the wires that connect to the relevant pins", have a look at dcb's first image in post #18. He's using those "splice clips" (not sure what the realy name is.)

(Hmm.. splice... if there were a bunch of women electricians playing in a band, would they be the Splice Girls?)

dcb 05-09-2008 08:51 AM

I went straight to the ECU. A few posts back, I had located the pinout for my ecu and circled the connections needed:
http://forum.ecomodder.com/showthrea...5.html?p=23551

I just tapped into the wires coming out of the ECU plugs that corresponded to those connections, and hooked them up to the guino. Battery and ground went to the power plug (center pin positive please), the vss signal went to the vss-in on the guino and the injector signal went to the injector-in on the guino.

Note: you need to choose wire size carefully when using the spice clips or they won't connect to the wire properly. I had to replace the yellow hookup wire since it was a fraction to small and wasn't making a connection.

If you don't have a pinout, don't despair. We are really only tapping into one side of an injector (easy to locate, and only two wires to choose from) and the vehicle speed sensor, which is a little more tricky (may be in the speedo or the transmission). And of course battery power and vehicle ground will be hard to miss. I'm sure there is a generic connection routine that could be written using a multimeter, but someone has to write it. I.e. turn on the ignition, unplug an injector connector, look for 12 volts on one of the connector pins, use the pin lead that does not have 12 volts for the injector signal to the guino, etc..

larrydag 05-09-2008 08:57 AM

I figured you just spliced in but I wanted to be sure. I do have a pinout diagram. It's not hard to find one for Hondas. They are everywhere on the 'net using Google.

I assume unplugging the ECU won't affect the electronics of the car, will it?

(PS: Metro, and one of them is Sparky Splice?)

dcb 05-09-2008 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larrydag (Post 24505)
I assume unplugging the ECU won't affect the electronics of the car, will it?

assuming you plug it back in after making the connections, it shouldn't be a problem :)

larrydag 05-09-2008 09:21 AM

I've read on other forums that it would be wise to unplug the negative terminal on the battery. I'll probably do that. (Have to reset the radio again, drat)

dcb, When I downloaded the updated script for the Opengauge I wasn't getting a clean display. The top row of "0" digits were all garbled. The bottom row were fine. All of the display names you created ("IN, M/G, CU, etc") were fine too. Have you seen this before?

dcb 05-09-2008 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larrydag (Post 24510)
dcb, When I downloaded the updated script for the Opengauge I wasn't getting a clean display. The top row of "0" digits were all garbled. The bottom row were fine. All of the display names you created ("IN, M/G, CU, etc") were fine too. Have you seen this before?

I have mentioned it before, the lcd does not always reinitialize properly after a download for some reason, or sometimes when plugging into the usb port. pressing reset should clear it up, and I haven't seen it happen when just using the external power jack (i.e. in the car). Also, I started having issues with the download on the serial board, but when I unplug the 5volt lead from the arduino to the component board before downloading, and plug it back in when I'm done, it works fine. That seemed like a manageable workaround to me for now.

larrydag 05-09-2008 10:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcb (Post 24525)
I have mentioned it before, the lcd does not always reinitialize properly after a download for some reason, or sometimes when plugging into the usb port. pressing reset should clear it up, and I haven't seen it happen when just using the external power jack (i.e. in the car). Also, I started having issues with the download on the serial board, but when I unplug the 5volt lead from the arduino to the component board before downloading, and plug it back in when I'm done, it works fine. That seemed like a manageable workaround to me for now.

Ok. That's interesting. I've tried resetting it several times after downloading. I will give the 5V unplug a try to see if that clears it up. Just curious if you were getting the same symptoms. The curious thing is the initial "OpenGauge MPGuino" comes up fine but the top zeros are garbled. I'll troubleshoot some more to see if I can get it to properly initialize. I probably won't get to it until late Sat. nite though.

dcb 05-09-2008 07:55 PM

Ok, just a couple q's when you get to them and before I forget them.

You got the LCD from NCK, correct? I don't know if any others would be significantly different or not, and don't want to know just yet.

Can you run it on just external power (i.e. a wall wart of 9-12 volts DC with a plug that fits and center pin positive, or that 9 volt battery trick)? Don't forget to move the jumper. Does it display correctly connected to just external power?

Have you triple checked the wiring against the diagram? I'm pretty sure the diagram is correct because I used it to swap in the serial board.

What if you disconnect pins 2,3,14,17,18,19? if disconnecting them all helps, is there a combination of pins or a single pin that the problem can be isolated to? Hit reset bewteen pin connection tests so the LCD will reinitialize.

Curious that you are seeing the opening screen, but the next screen is garbled. I tried to tighten up the lcd timing, we might have to try loosening it up a bit if nothing else is working.

dcb 05-09-2008 11:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larrydag (Post 24440)
Here is my working prototype.

BTW, good job getting that LCD going :thumbup: :)

AndrewJ 05-10-2008 12:02 AM

Dang this thing is coming along quick!

If only I can get some time tomorrow to get my LCD hooked up.

larrydag 05-10-2008 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcb (Post 24609)
Ok, just a couple q's when you get to them and before I forget them.

You got the LCD from NCK, correct? I don't know if any others would be significantly different or not, and don't want to know just yet.

Yes, its the NCK LCD

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcb (Post 24609)
Can you run it on just external power (i.e. a wall wart of 9-12 volts DC with a plug that fits and center pin positive, or that 9 volt battery trick)? Don't forget to move the jumper. Does it display correctly connected to just external power?

Yes I've tried powering it up with a plug in power supply. It did the exact same thing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcb (Post 24609)
Have you triple checked the wiring against the diagram? I'm pretty sure the diagram is correct because I used it to swap in the serial board.

What if you disconnect pins 2,3,14,17,18,19? if disconnecting them all helps, is there a combination of pins or a single pin that the problem can be isolated to? Hit reset bewteen pin connection tests so the LCD will reinitialize.

I'll give that a try. I have been double checking the wiring but there is a lot of wires. I'll try to see if I can isolate it.

dcb 05-10-2008 09:03 AM

Also, you might try going into the code and changing both references to delay(2) to delay(12) and reverify/upload.

Also maybe try changing:
lcd.print("OpenGauge ");
to
lcd.print("0000000000000000");

just to see what happens.

It might be nothing too, just some strange result of nothing being connected to the board. To test that, modify Trip::mpg so it returns a 0.0 first thing:
double Trip::mpg(){
return 0.0; //add this line for testing display

larrydag 05-10-2008 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcb (Post 24708)
It might be nothing too, just some strange result of nothing being connected to the board. To test that, modify Trip::mpg so it returns a 0.0 first thing:
double Trip::mpg(){
return 0.0; //add this line for testing display

That seemed to work. I guess it doesn't like getting no signal at first. Also the zeros before "GA" is blinking back and forth between gibberish and 000.00. Maybe i'll set a <code>return 0.0;</code> there as well.

UPDATE: adding return 0.0; to the Trip::gallons() worked too.

dcb 05-10-2008 01:04 PM

Very Good :)

I discovered a few things about the floating point situation, basically it's not very good on the microprocessors in general. But I also discovered a 64 bit integer type so I need to make a few updates for the integer oriented math.

larrydag 05-10-2008 03:14 PM

On my ECU I have pins for Injector #1, #2, #3, and #4. Is it possible that Honda Accords control each injector separately? If so I am going to need to get a reading from each one?

diesel_john 05-10-2008 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larrydag (Post 24755)
On my ECU I have pins for Injector #1, #2, #3, and #4. Is it possible that Honda Accords control each injector separately? If so I am going to need to get a reading from each one?

yes,

no, you only need one injector signal.

larrydag 05-10-2008 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by diesel_john (Post 24761)
no, you only need one injector signal.

Good answer diesel_john :)

cmags 05-11-2008 12:28 PM

Not sure if this is the right thread for this, but regarding the LCD - is the design locked into the one from the site w/ the freeduino, or will any similar LCD work? I really don't like blue lights in my car (blue is the most difficult color for the human eye to process, and therefore causes glare), and was looking at either a green-backlit LCD like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/16x2-LCD-Display...QQcmdZViewItem

or even better, one of these with green letters:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...link:middle:us

The specs seem close:
Display Format
16 char x 2 lines
LCD Driving Method:
1/16 duty, 1/5 Bias
Display Mode:
STN, Positive
Driver IC
KS0066U KS0065B

though the driver is a slightly different chip as compared to the blue LCD's S6A0065 driver.

I don't see why it wouldn't work, though I'm hoping to find out from someone if they know it wouldn't. I'm not too afraid of modifying the code if it needs be done for timing, etc...

diesel_john 05-11-2008 12:42 PM

dcb,
feel free to edit the text file in post#6 as you see fit. I just figured it was easier to find an injector than the ECU. Thought the resistor at the injector wire would be safer since there are several amps. availiable thur the injector. Possibily spraying a continuous stream of fuel into the engine if it were to short out. Or damaging the ECU if it were to receive unfused power.
:thumbup:
I am humbled by your effort.

dcb 05-11-2008 12:42 PM

CMags, It isn't restricted to only one LCD, I was able to get my 4x20 from sparkfun working last night actually without changing the code:
http://planetchampions.org/diympggauge/breaduino1.JPG

So there is an extremely good chance that you can use other LCDs. It is just that you may be on your own if you are having problems with the non-"official" LCD. It could have a different pinout, different commands, different timings, different voltage requirements, etc. etc. and I don't know who here wants to mess with it. If your lcd does behave differently than the "official" lcd, and you are the only one who has that model that is having the problem, then no-one will be able to reproduce your problem.

John, will take a look at it. I think I'm having issues with my ecu setup and may be going straight to the injector myself. It would be nice to have a "one size fits most" routine for hookup.


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