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-   -   My 1994 Honda Civic DX MPGuino Install (w / pics) ! (https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/my-1994-honda-civic-dx-mpguino-install-w-19295.html)

JJMunoz 10-26-2011 02:19 PM

My 1994 Honda Civic DX MPGuino Install (w / pics) !
 
So I got my MPGuino in the mail the other day and decided to install it in the cluster like I saw on another civic on this forum a while ago.
I have a 1994 Civic DX with a 1994 Si cluster installed.


http://www.indyhpmedia.com/ihpmedia/...gs/MPGuino.jpg

I had no experience with silicon boards so this was a first time thing for me.
So of course, the first and most logical thing to do would be to tear the switches off the MPGuino since I wasn't going to be using them, right?
Yikes.
I tore them off and realized the solder and old pieces of switch weren't going to come out of the board.
So my first experience in soldering was installing 6 wires on the board ( I didn't realize the front of the board was a common ground for all 3 switches), which came out pretty good!

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...l/IMG_0279.jpg

I soldered wires onto 3 switches and put connectors on the end of them.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...l/IMG_0280.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...l/IMG_0281.jpg

Then I embarked on grinding away the cluster.
The front portion of the cluster came out good right away.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...l/IMG_0274.jpg

I cut the bottom of the plastic face on the tach around the bottom of the 8k rpm line.
The mistake I made was using the 1994 DX cluster (without tachometer) and trying to fit the MPGuino in there, thinking the two casings of the DX and SI clusters were the same.
Wrong.
I realized this when I pulled the SI cluster out my car and tried to fit the MPGuino in it and the MPGuino was pressing against the bottom of the tach.
My second problem was that this guys MPGuino was separated into two boards and not two boards glued together like mine.
I had this space discrepancy of a little over an 1/8" to take care of.
This is where my nightmare began because I had to cut a shield off the bottom of the tach and grind down the plastic base of it, which in the Honda tuner world would probably be considered complete sacrilege,

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...l/IMG_0282.jpg

and I had to grind down the MPGuino board, just to fit it on an angle in the cluster ( You can see the grind down point next to the two red connector covers in the picture.).

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...l/IMG_0283.jpg

I heard the MPGuino gets hot so I drilled ventilation holes in the top of the cluster.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...l/IMG_0286.jpg

I had to grind away portions of the cluster backing for the wires to pass through and a portion of the plastic to the bottom-right of the tach to fit the MPGuino properly.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...l/IMG_0284.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...l/IMG_0285.jpg

I drilled 3 holes in the right side of the cluster cover for my switches and began installing it in the car.

The leads on the civic are as follows:
- Green and Black are +12v and Ground as it says on the MPGuino wiki.
- The Cylinder #1 Brown Injector Wire in the engine bay is your injector lead, NOT the brown wire coming out of the first connector in the ECU.
- The only yellow and blue wire coming out of the ECU is your VSS lead. It's in the middle connector of the ECU.

I ran the power off an unused hot at all times terminal in the fuse box and the ground off a bolt near my clutch pedal.

The VSS lead is easily hidden under the carpet but the injector lead was a little harder to hide. This was how I did it. :/

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...l/IMG_0291.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...l/IMG_0290.jpg

After all said and done, it came out pretty nice.
It was scary, but successful.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...l/IMG_0289.jpg

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a2...l/IMG_0288.jpg

:D

brucepick 10-26-2011 05:01 PM

Very nice job!

There's a 'Guino installations thread; you should put in a pic of yours and a link to this thread. http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...-off-6873.html

mswehx 10-26-2011 08:40 PM

car does warm up fast brucepick,at least my hx does 374,200miles and counting,make sure you clean the egr ports under the fuel rail helps with FE,I do mine every 100k. Hope your wife gets better.Mike

JJMunoz 10-26-2011 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brucepick (Post 267399)
Very nice job!

There's a 'Guino installations thread; you should put in a pic of yours and a link to this thread. http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...-off-6873.html

Thanks, man! I put it in that thread, too. :D

California98Civic 10-26-2011 11:01 PM

Really smart. Good looking. Stealthy mod. Inspiring stuff.

type-S EF awd 02-03-2013 09:36 AM

I know its a bit late now, but for your VSS you could just pull from the "SP" screw going to the speedometer, about 4 inches from where you mounted the MPGuino, and the injector signal at the computer so no wires go through the firewall. I am actually using unused traces and the seat belt light so everything uses the factory cluster plugs (even my remote located buttons)

But I am cheep and made mine from a knock off uno, making the build total about $25 after all the connectors, headers, resistors, switches ect.

P.S. I am partly still in the Honda tuner world, its not sacrilidge (most put in additional tach's anyway), it had to be done, but the metal cap there is for RFI shielding, and you might want to patch it with some metal if you ever have it apart again, what I did was threw the cap away and wraped it in aluminum tape. But at the same time, I do abide by the "If it 'aint broke, don't fix it", so if you have no problems, i'd leave it.

JJMunoz 02-05-2013 01:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by type-S EF awd (Post 354520)
I know its a bit late now, but for your VSS you could just pull from the "SP" screw going to the speedometer, about 4 inches from where you mounted the MPGuino, and the injector signal at the computer so no wires go through the firewall. I am actually using unused traces and the seat belt light so everything uses the factory cluster plugs (even my remote located buttons)

But I am cheep and made mine from a knock off uno, making the build total about $25 after all the connectors, headers, resistors, switches ect.

P.S. I am partly still in the Honda tuner world, its not sacrilidge (most put in additional tach's anyway), it had to be done, but the metal cap there is for RFI shielding, and you might want to patch it with some metal if you ever have it apart again, what I did was threw the cap away and wraped it in aluminum tape. But at the same time, I do abide by the "If it 'aint broke, don't fix it", so if you have no problems, i'd leave it.

Ah! Good stuff! Wish I knew that beforehand. haha It's still working fine although I dont think heat is an issue as I thought before. When it's cold out, the LCD refreshes slowly so I know its not creating any heat. Thanks for the advice though! :cool:

JJMunoz 02-05-2013 01:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by type-S EF awd (Post 354520)
I know its a bit late now, but for your VSS you could just pull from the "SP" screw going to the speedometer, about 4 inches from where you mounted the MPGuino, and the injector signal at the computer so no wires go through the firewall. I am actually using unused traces and the seat belt light so everything uses the factory cluster plugs (even my remote located buttons)

But I am cheep and made mine from a knock off uno, making the build total about $25 after all the connectors, headers, resistors, switches ect.

P.S. I am partly still in the Honda tuner world, its not sacrilidge (most put in additional tach's anyway), it had to be done, but the metal cap there is for RFI shielding, and you might want to patch it with some metal if you ever have it apart again, what I did was threw the cap away and wraped it in aluminum tape. But at the same time, I do abide by the "If it 'aint broke, don't fix it", so if you have no problems, i'd leave it.

Ah! Good stuff! Wish I knew that beforehand. haha It's still working fine although I dont think heat is an issue as I thought before. When it's cold out, the LCD refreshes slowly so I know its not creating any heat. Thanks for the advice though! :cool:


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