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Hersbird 02-13-2017 11:00 PM

New to me 2004 Cummins Ram
 
http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-he...213-174442.jpg

So I finally found a good deal on a generation 3 CTD Ram 6 speed manual. This is a 2004.5 325hp 4x4, quad cab, long bed SLT. It has 272,000 miles but seems pretty well maintained. A few questions.

1) The tires are less than 50% so was thinking of new ones already. They are stock 265/70/17 31.6" tall. There is a set of new 2016 take off wheels and tires from a 2016 in 275/70/18 that would be a 33.2" tall (for $600!). I think I have 3.73 gears but I can't find any tags and the sticker in the glove box is missing. I think that would drop the rpms by about 100 in 6th but would lift the truck .8 inches. Good, bad, wash? I can hardly buy new LT tires for $600 let alone on wheels ready to run.

2) Mainly this is to tow my camper. The camper also sits very high as it's built deck over tires to allow the whole wall to slide out. The camper is skinned under but does have some plumbing and the jacks and axles hanging down. Would letting the air pass under the truck be better (it's pretty high especially if I add the new tires), or would adding a lower air dam to the front help more?

3) similar lines with #2, the camper is tall and doesn't have much of an aerodynamic nose. I want to haul motorcycles in the bed and have thought about adding a ladder rack over them with an inverted jon boat for use as a boat, but also as an air deflector for the front of the camper. I could get a nice rack and a new boat for around $1000-1500 (much less for an used one). When not camping I could remove it all. I will try and hook up the camper once some snow melts to better visualize what I'm thinking. I could also add coroplast sides to the ladder rack to clean up that air as well and get the nose of the boat to "seal" to the roof of the truck with some cut foam.

4) any advice on when to shift and how low I can safely keep the RPM? It seems to want to keep itself above 750 rpm but would a lower gear be better then to keep to rpms even higher? That would mainly be while unloaded around town, on the highway it will be well over 1000 if not 2000 rpms.

I have read a lot of other advice here from Slowmover, Gumby79, Skyking, oil pan, and others so I am listening to all that advice. I'm going to take the truck in to Gomer's US diesel parts here, they are a great diesel shop, and have them give it an overall inspection and maybe add better fuel filtration if it doesn't have it already, fluids and filter, along with some gauges to start (EGT and low pressure fuel). I'm also considering a remote Fass lift pump with filtration. It does have some blowby but not enough to move the oil fill cap removed and inverted on the valve cover. The clutch feels like it has a lot of pedal effort, I can't imagine that is stock but I need to find somebody with a stock clutch to compare. It has some oil leakage on the front of the pan but not much. I will check in the morning to see if any has even dripped. It's supposed to be 8 degrees tonight and it's outside and plugged in so that will be a good test of a cold start (I need to do a lot of cleaning in the garage to fit this beast in there LOL). Anything to look for or listen for there? Shifting is going to take getting used to, 5th and 6th are kind of hard to find but man takeoffs are easy. Just put it in 2nd a let out the clutch, you don't even need to give it pedal but a little seems to keep it smooth. The overhead MPG says 20.4 and hasn't been reset for 9000 miles so that's promising. It has 7200 hours on it so that averages about 24 mph, not ideal. The only modification looks to be an exhaust brake, air bags, and a turnover ball in the bed (another not ideal sign), the air cleaner, exhaust, intake, suspension seem stock. I'm pretty happy, not perfect but so much less expensive than anything else I have seen, my total cost was $13,000 (with fees and shipping) and that gave my buddy over $500 profit as well.

I'm sure I will come up with 50 other questions as I go.

oil pan 4 02-14-2017 02:02 AM

It appears that taller tires lifting the vehicle up a half inch to 1 inch is enough to over come the aero penalty.
The problem with taller tires is when you go too tall and have too gutless of an engine.
For example my engineer friend bought a ford expedition 2wd with 4.6l engine and auto transmission, the person who had it last put 3 inch taller than stock tires on it.
It had lack luster getup and go and was always well below epa rating even with odometer corrected milage.
After about a year the tires wore out enough to warrant replacement. When he finely put the correct size tire on there it started getting real close to epa fuel economy, it could get out of its own way and could tow half way decent. He said if he would have known the correct size tire was going to do that he would have put the correct tires on when he bought it.

A diesel with a manual transmission and almost unlimited torque won't suffer as bad.

If you are going to be mostly towing with it get the highest load rated tires you can and make sure it has the correct load rated tires on it currently.

Since you have the manual transmission avoid flooring it in 6th gear. The 6th gear is push fitted to the shafts and the engine may put off enough torque to spin the gear, which is really bad.
If you have to floor it to get over a hill just drop down out of top gear.

redpoint5 02-14-2017 02:33 PM

The 2003-2004 Ram/Cummins is my dream truck. Did the 2004.5 add a cat? I can't remember what year added it.

1. I believe my final drive ratio was found somewhere under the hood. In a manual transmission, speed is directly proportional to RPM, so we should be able to determine your ratio if you post what speed/RPM you are at in top gear.

I read somewhere that my truck cruises most efficiently at around 1600 RPM. With my oversized tires, tall final drive, and automatic, that's about 55 MPH.

2. The general rule of thumb for air dam is to have it hang down to the same level as the lowest component on the vehicle. That would probably be the rear differential.

I'm no expert on any of your questions though.

Hersbird 02-14-2017 03:55 PM

Today driving unloaded around town starting in 2nd, then just going 4th and 6th seemed to work pretty good shifting at 2000 rpm.
My truck has a cat or something between the turbo and the muffler that looks like a cat. It is a pretty beefy looking 4" system from the turbo back.
I'll do a 60 mph run after work to check RPMS.

I'm debating if I want to change all the fluids myself or just take it in. I think I just want to add gauges for lift pump pressure and EGT and then a Smarty JR basic tune and the bigger tires.

I was looking for an early 04 or 03 HO but they were either trashed or expensive. I was almost ready to go with a 01-02 HO but am glad now for the extra cab space.

Update: the RPM at 60 mph is about 1750 so that is 3.73 for the gearing. Those other tires would reduce that to 1665 rpm at 60. Or be the same as changing to 3.56 gears.

oil pan 4 02-14-2017 06:48 PM

Yes good idea the vp44 injector pumps and CP3 common rail pumps are very intolerant of low or no fuel pressure.
I'm not sure which the 2004.5 has, the difference is really bad and really, really bad between the 2.

redpoint5 02-14-2017 08:27 PM

I just remembered I cruise at 1600 RPM at 55. Revised my post.

Lift pumps commonly went bad on the gen II trucks, but I imagine the issue was addressed on the gen III. I got a replacement OEM "campaign" lift pump for cheap, but discovered it had gone bad after less than 40,000 miles. Before I installed a fuel pressure gauge, I would only discover the lift pump had gone bad after running out of fuel and then being unable to prime the fuel system (no fuel from loosened injectors). I had to buy an aftermarket lift pump since the OEM was so useless. Fortunately I have never lost a VP44, which is $2,000 compared to the $150 lift pump.

Does CR even have a VP44? I imagine it's a different high pressure pump altogether.

gumby79 02-15-2017 06:06 AM

Take your truck to a Dodge dealer and have them print out a build sheet, all the alphanumeric codes missing from the glove box . Some can some can't. They should be able to.
St Hellens , Oregon provided me with the print out were as Longview, Washington ~30mi away told me they couldn not even do it for a new truck much less my old 1991.5 .
If they can't call Oregon all they need is the VIN.
Anaconda was able to look up the info. Just was not able to tell me the part# for the large tank option listed on my truck after I put 27.011 ga in , from the trip in my signature.base tank is 27ga but may have the 35ga w/27ga sender.
Cummins Northwest is there in Missoula .
I contacted [url=http://thesensorconnection.com]The Sensor Connection /url] and they said a simple 2pole x throw rotary switch would alow for extra K-Type probes for measuring other Ecomodder type things like IAT /grill block effects. Also the exposed tip probes(quick response) are ok on diesel they will just need periodic cleaning, I'm at 50,000mi with no loss of response speed. They have 2 fast response probes, a 250ms and a 125ms. Standard diesel is 1200ms or 500ms and shrouded. (Fail proof)
98-02 24v was the vp44 . You have the CP3.
Maby swap out the round tube steps for some that are solid like mying, run them all the way to the back tire. 1 ti gives a flat surface th hang skert from. 2 it will help keep the turbulent air under the truck insted of wrecking the flow for the hole lower side of the truck.

Dreem big chisel down to reality.

Hersbird 02-16-2017 11:50 PM

Well I had the chance to take a little 40 mile trip after work. Reset the Lie-O-meter from a dead stop but full warmed up, accelerated to about 58-60mph and held it there the best I could. After going through 2 small towns but catching the lights and turning around and going back 20 miles it was reading 33.5 average over 40 miles. Now that may be a lie but even if it is 10 mpg off it is still pretty freaking sweet. This is on winter diesel no less although it was 45 degrees today. Speedometer seems close according to one of those radar speed signs and my GPS, it may be reading 2 mph low at that speed. I did fill the 35 gallon tank but not until after that run, it may take awhile to get a hand calculated number and I'm back to probably just driving around town, and short trips anyway.

Hersbird 02-18-2017 08:04 PM

I got an above 50% set (8000 miles supposedly) of 275/70/18's mounted and balanced off a 2016 for $290 so that will be my first change. I am going to go as is for awhile and try and get more baseline. See if I can get my torque app dialed in as it is way off for some reason on this motor. Maybe even try an A-B-A test or at the minimum an A-B test on the same day, same course. Use GPS speed as the speedometer will be off.

slowmover 02-19-2017 06:31 AM

Scale it, Hersbird. As in my post to you on skykings thread. Data collection. And best tire pressure FF/RR.

Mechanical condition is uppermost for these trucks. Confirm that post-2008 steering conversion has been done and that balljoints (every 70k) have been recently replaced. All book maintenance thru 300k. Recent valve adjust? New boots on CAC system? No caliper drag? Perfect alignment? (See rdefayette posts on same at CF). Mech malfunctions hide underneath disciplined driving. Skew results.

As in another thread: how many years will you have this truck? How many miles annually? (Come up with something). Ownership CPM per worksheets at Edmunds or AAA (True cost of ownership).

Given X-miles annually, at an estimated Average mpg, what is annual consumption? What percentage change to the annual average would produce a $1000 savings? (Work these type questions).

Second, as skyking and others have noted, about the only effective changes are aero for highway and final gearing. If the vehicle sits around waiting to pull a travel trailer, changing to 3.42 will work against you. If the vehicle is mainly a commuter (where pulling a TT is 30% of total annual miles) a final gear change may be effective. And then it depends on TT aero and weight. Plus terrain and climate.

A-B testing. Keep it simple. Same pump before/after same 1-200 mile highway loop. On cruise control at 60-mph or lower. Truck empty, truck with more than 1k payload, and truck with trailer both loaded for camping trip. (Simulate passenger weight). The percentage change between these different states is what matters. Not the numerical mpg. Use engine rpm to set cruise at same spot on highway entrance ramp.

Cruise control is "assertive" on these trucks. Assumes truck is under a load. Let it do its thing in any state. It's reliably regular, overall.

Steering and tire choice if bad is 4-mpg easily. To the annual average. A greater effect than tank by tank (which is pretty much meaningless). Without "like new" mechanical condition per steering, front end and tires, "testing" is a time and dollar waster.

Were it mine I'd be looking at replacing all fluids filters belts and related. U-joints. Front axle bearings. (and further as in that post).

Rent a steam cleaner to get underside and repaint where corrosion has started.
New exterior lamps, etc. A copy of the state inspection form to thoroughly go over details.

There are some potential suspension improvements for handling/steering, but they also limit wheel travel some feel necessary for 4WD. How will you use yours in that regard?

Pics of your camper, or similar to what you want to do would be a help. Neckover goose type. 5er hitch? Conventional? Probable weight? Etc.

Congratulations on a fine looking truck!!

slowmover 02-19-2017 07:05 AM

Okay, shifting. These are light duty trucks by classification. We were lucky Dodge chose both a medium duty engine and transmission. Rated above 30,000-lbs duty.

Tradeoff is that it's a slow revving engine and the transmission, though synchronized, is also slow.

The operators manual will tell you --and I fully agree -- every gear every time. First is not a granny when one has stock tire sizing and 3.73 gears. It's set up for a highway working range of 55-65/mph.

It shifts slowly. There is the barest pause across the Neutral gate that you'll learn to anticipate. Done right the shifter will LITERALLY fall into the next gear. If you can fingertip the NV5600 into next gear, you're getting it.

Driving one of these is not about throttle opening. The throttle only exists to move between gears. It is gear choice that matters. Around town, as these are hard to stop, a lower gear that allows only 37 in a 45 is what I'm talking about. Safety first.

As to what rpm: slightly above 2k makes shifts easiest (solo). Just above 1500 is adequate for economy, it one is pushing ones luck in some situations.

The truck is very happy with town rpms and and shifts 16-1800. Use that as template. Can't go wrong.

Don't skip First. Bad habit. It's about getting truck rolling easily and that's all about gearing. First is short, but it's a matter if being good at shifting. That'll take about 10k miles as with other muscle memory problems to solve. Make an exception for downhill and turning left across broad open six lane with suicide center.

Keeping up with traffic is irrelevant. One wants the morons far ahead for maximum space. And space is the magic that produces best results.

In the big truck I'm already into the High side of the transmission and going from 6th to 7th gear at about 20-mph.

In the pickup I'm looking to ease my way up. Let the engine be as natural and unstrained as is reasonable. Light load. Not, no load.

Conversely, with my 35' TT, my shifts are up above 2500-rpm and I'm looking to keep manifold pressure high. From shift to shift. Learn to read gauges. Read on "progressive shifting" if you want to learn how the old hands got a million miles from a Big Cam Cummins of yesteryear.

These trucks are grossly overpowered when solo. A 10-12k trailer is a nice little workout. Lives longer due to a good load. When I ran these in the oilfield, the trailers were often above 20k. We worked them hard. Time constraints. Still lasted over 300k.

One of the best things you could do for you and truck is to hook up a low height 10k trailer and really learn how to get it rolling and get it stopped. Run it hard. Very smoothly. (This is about average speed. I have to run WV Turnpike today. It's a workout to keep average speed "up").

These engines don't like featherfoot / no load. Meant to work. Need to fit that in once in a while.

Hersbird 02-27-2017 07:01 PM

Well the overhead is way off. I did 104.7 miles all city averaged 25 mph basically 2 weeks of 4 mile each way commute, full cooldown before return trip, (I know it's bad for it, it is not the intended use, I'm checking it out while I had a 2 week warranty, I will go back to my Subie for commuting soon) and used 7.99 gallons, for 13.1 mpg. The overhead was reading 23.7! That still is what my Hemi would get, if not better, doing the same duty in this weather, even my 4.0 Grand Cherokee was similar (the Subie does 23-25mpg though).
I did get all the fluids changed, the front diff looked pretty bad but the rest looked good. I ordered an EGT, fuel pressure, and boost gauge that I want to get on before making any other adjustments. I have started using all 6 gears as Slowmover suggested. I do think that helps, shifting about 1900rpm which lets it drop to 1250-1500, once I'm done accelerating I might put it in 6th if I'm going over 40, if not I run in 5th. It's easier now that I have had it awhile and maybe the new syncromesh fluid helped, it was a bit low. I did do a brief run up to 80 mph for 5 miles to look for problems but it seems solid and vibration free.

Once I get my gauges on I'll probably take it in for and injector test to see if they are even or if any are out of balance. That is probably the worst thing that could be off, $1800 worth of injectors. I wonder if they are overfueling if they would be causing the overhead computer to be so far off. Basically they are giving more diesel than the computer thinks they are giving. I also wonder if it isn't running some kind of tune that I may not know about. I might see if the shop (not a dealer) can flash a stock program just to be sure.

I can't wait to hook up the camper and give it more of a workout, still buried in snow with more falling everyday still!

slowmover 02-28-2017 09:42 AM

Overhead mpg readout is usually off by a percentage. Say, 11%. Mine is high by .75/mpg 55-60/mph. I use it to check effects of external factors on fuel mileage.

Yours being so far off makes me think a tuner has been present. MADs Smarty JR is the best recommendation on that. I'm generally not in favor of them, but this one will allow stock programming to be run among other options. Read up over on CF. I would not allow dealer to reflash.

Injectors (with associated expenses of feed lines) is a good deal more than $1800. $3500-5000 is more like it after everything is tallied. Read all you like about problems with remanufactured injectors. Not good at all. Failure can mean loss of engine. Brand new only. And then only from particular sources. On CF, read posts by Steelhead01, Cerberusiam, PWong and AH64ID (actually, for any and all tech questions). Best step now is extra fuel filtration. Nice kits available. Glacier Diesel and others. See thread by AH64ID. Baldwin brand only in OEM position.

I wouldn't assume injectors are a problem without some evidence. You've so far not mentioned smoking at startup or other warning signs.

No, bad FE can have other sources. The classic ones are wrong tires, lift kit, CAC leaks, alignment, steering, brake caliper drag and fuel or air filtration. And climate plus terrain.

Missoula, MT is cold. And not flat. 13-mpg town is hardly off for a truck a few years along on short trips (under 45-miles). Under 41F you need the MOPAR winter front (and to be plugging in the engine overnight no matter temps). Oil temps come up much more slowly than coolant. And coolant won't get anywhere near 187F this time of year without the WF. Not when you're empty, solo. Oil has to be up near 220F for economy.

IOW, I have yet to see anything to be disappointed about.

I've said use of CC on highway for any condition of load makes consistent test results. So, too, about both shifting and cruising in town. All at 16-1800 rpm. Lower won't produce much change in mpg results. It's easy to do which is important for steering and brake inputs. It's how to teach someone to drive one of these. Steering and braking are higher on the scale in driving one of these without wasting energy. Focus on them. Steady rpm, and when (and how) to brake, to steer, to accelerate. It simply isn't a car. Throw the undisciplined teen out of drivers seat. We all have to at some point.

Choose rpm (gear) and let speed fall where it may. 16-1800 consistently (underlined) makes all else stand out. Use it for now. You've other concerns more important. (And these trucks have no business being in OD below
45).

Have you put it on a scale yet? Put tire pressure to factory spec? The truckstops carry Howes Meaner Cleaner. Throw in a double dose (or higher). Schaeffers Diesel Treat is best everyday, but not so easy to find. The Cummins service house should have their proprietary formula. Check website first. That last is best, and coming downwards in effectiveness with the others. Add to tank first and fuel on top of it (after new filters which you can change yourself per directions. Fuel is Baldwin, and air is MOPAR.

Play in steering is my guess if temp control isn't it. And even new that truck wasn't good (2WD like mine is IFS with rack & pinion). Synergy brand components plus new steering Redhead or MOPAR box and Borgeson shaft are likely necessary. Research using these.

4WD front end / steering ("death wobble") and injectors are the big expenses on pre-2009 trucks. All else but some minor electrical is reliable.

Besides, 100 miles is too short for a test. Do a highway loop of 200 miles as outlined above. Town mpg is a percentage change and (italicized) only if operating temps are already met will that be low!

Hit one of the Pilot truckstops there. Sign up for the RV discount fuel card (see website first). Fill at the big truck pumps. This is practice For When you have your trailer Avoid Car pumps.

Go inside after pulling up and have fuel desk run transaction ahead (cash, or on card; set up more than you'll use and get balance afterwards). Buy the Howes Meaner Cleaner off shelf near fuel desk. Ask them (Scale master) how to use CAT Scale (even though you've read up at their website).

Put additive in tank and fuel. Put handle on lightest feed. May have back out nozzle some. When it pops off, stop. Do not top off as you'll do this on return also. Pull truck forward to line ahead and return to get cash change. If not, enter CAT Scale correct direction (same as entering fuel island, look for sign) and pull up to annunciator. Push button and wait for Scale master. Tell them you are private (they need name, use yours or just "Dodge") and get back into truck. Axles should be on different pads.

Leave and park when told reading done. Go to fuel desk and pay the $11.

Ease onto the Interstate and set cruise at 58/9-mph. Note rpm and use that in future. 100-miles out to a crossover you've already verified via satellite allows minimal turnaround time. No parked idling. Roll on back to same pump and refill the same way.

This is your baseline. Truck tires to 50/55-psi cold (read before leaving house). Axle weights and overall "empty" weight now known. Compare to online towing guide published weight figure.

As to fuel: You want odometer miles recorded and engine hours. With a known travel set speed and rpm, after refill you want to again record engine hours to find average speed.

Average speed matters. (As does average mpg). These numbers will be used
against loaded conditions. And in analyzing hitch setup with trailer. They are vital.

Rest easy. If it seems good it probably is. It's a working vehicle, not a commuter go kart. Differences are in costs. But the owner and operator can keep those minimal.

.

Hersbird 02-28-2017 11:15 AM

No smoke on start and it always fires within the first second of cranking. There is some condensation shortly after startup like any other car in the cold but it goes away faster than any non-diesel I have ever had, my mail truck for comparison seems to have that condensation in the exhaust all day. I do plug it in overnight but cant plug it in at work which is ususally a 8-10 hour shift. I also have tipped the passenger mirror down and I do see some grey, black haze sometimes after shifting but it's nothing that is like a cloud you could see in the rear view. If I get on it full throttle to redline in say 4th it makes a little more grayish haze but the streets are still dusty as well.
I did get the Baldwin feul filter in a 2 pack from Amazon but was waiting to install with the guage as it goes in the bottom of the filter housing and I don't want to drink it twice.
I hope to try more of what you have said but I have been working 6 day weeks and resting Sundays so it's slow testing.

slowmover 02-28-2017 11:28 AM

I was still revising after posted.

Only time I see haze is full throttle onto highway (I only wind it to redline in 4th and Direct) when solo and it's been a month or so.

Shouldn't see any oil or fuel related smoke at startup. The combo is indicative of a tuner (after shifts and at start). Those, plus overhead reading being off is tuner evidence.

Do the MPG Loop. And don't sweat it otherwise. Once done and investigation about tuner plus other mechanical issues settled, you'll know where you are.

Hersbird 03-04-2017 12:18 AM

Well I found out the problem but not the solution now that I got gauges installed. I have low boost. Hardly 1-3 psi normal driving and max possible under load only about 13-15 psi. It should go about 32 psi stock. I checked the turbo and it has no play or rubbing and spins freely. I thought the cat might be plugged so I too off the whole exhaust to test but no change except noise (there was a hole rusted in the muffler anyway so I want a new exhaust system). I will maybe try to build a boost leak tester. I don't see or hear any leaks but apparently it doesn't take much to lose boost pressure. The exhaust brake is disconnected and in the open position but I wonder if a carbon "potato" can form on the plate. I will probably pull the downpipe and look in that end. The air compressor is dead so it doesn't work anyway, I may just pull it off altogether, although is was a $1300 part so fixing it would be nice for downhill grades.

At least I got my Subaru back so I may just take it in to the shop for the experts to figure out.

gumby79 03-04-2017 01:24 PM

Had the AC line rub a pinhole in the hot side IC boot. It just looked like a chafed spot on the passenger side boot. It blasted a hole in the hood insulation 1.5' above and would only make 12psi. Made 15psi after repairs but I'm 1st gen with a non wastegated H1C turbo-charger. 32 sounds high unmodded
You want MORE BOOST? Read here!
Explains there are 2 modds needed to pass the 20psi mark.
Tells you what to look for and how to undo/reverse engineer.

What are your EGTs running at cruise/ psi. Vs pulling a grade. What EGT corresponds to your 15psi?
For me its 1000°f=15psi. 1050 during turbo lag aprox 1-3sec.
Depending on wether 5-600° 1-3psi in the flats between Anaconda and butte.

Any one got a HX35 laying around I'm looking for a wastegated ehxsost ?

Hersbird 03-04-2017 02:59 PM

Egt climbs like crazy at that max boost, like I said it's WOT seems like it hit almost 1200, backing off it quickly goes down to 600 or less crusing at 55-60. Any off throttle deceleration pulls the egt under 200 almost right away. I have the 2004.5 which from what I read will do over 30psi stock.
The torque app reading the MAP shows it is getting boost but it stops registering at I think 22-23 psi and you have to subtract 14 atmospheric pressure. The torque app also shows a boost number but I don't know how it gets that number. It is showing more boost than the gauge. I guess it's possible there is a problem with the new gauge but I also feel it fall flat at 2000 rpm and it does make quite a bit of black smoke at WOT.

Hersbird 03-07-2017 07:43 PM

Well dumb me I had the fuel and boost sending units backwards. One was a 10 bar and I figured that was for boost while the 60 psi was fuel but not according to instructions. I swapped them and I can hit 29 psi boost pretty easy (now the exhaust is open so I don't want to tick off the neighbors) and fuel stays at 10 psi which would be right for a stock in tank lift pump. I also found out that this motor could run 1400 degrees stock so that 1200 isn't crazy. I don't think I will spend much time at max boost so I'm not as worried anymore.
Now the question is if there is a tune. I think I decided to get the Smarty JR. the 2004.5 is write only on the computer so the Smarty has the stock tune inside, plus it has a lower power tune that doesn't add any more fuel, just maps timing better and supposedly lowers cruising EGT a fair amount.

I ordered a muffler and resonator, a 4" air filter, and one new intercooler boot that is missing some expansion preventing rings and feels soft to me.

Feeling much better overall for sure.

slowmover 03-09-2017 03:38 AM

Never found anyone who could show records about mpg using Smarty, but near universal that it's the least damaging tune. Trucks with auto trans suffer reduced life of that component. Same for injectors.

If one CAC system boot is bad, they all are. Having lasted that long they're due for replacement.

MOPAR 4" paper air filter the one to have.

Glad mysteries are receding.

Exhaust brake great for 10k pound trailers. Not really otherwise. I'd still do repair.

Hersbird 04-18-2017 11:28 PM

Well I finally got my first towing test of a little over 400 miles. I had a few problems. On the way over I got a sudden loss of power on the biggest hill and a check engine light. The code was P2121 which is a throttle position error. I was able to get it to come back to responsive and tried to clear the code but the check engine light stayed on and then cleared itself in about an hour. Then we stopped for 20 mins, and when pulling out we got a surge in power, then the dead pedal again and the light. The pedal was working like either 0%, then any application it shot to 20%, then any movement of the pedal higher did nothing, stuck at 20%. It went back to normal after about 5 mins but the light stayed for the rest of the trip. I ordered a new TPS that will be here tomorrow, but I also did a reset and TPS relearn while I was sitting 2 nights, and then today on the return trip I had no issues. The TPS was $275 and I wonder if I really need it or if it was a loose negative battery terminal (which didn't seem as tight as it could be during the reset procedure.)

Anyway as far as economy I got 10.73 MPG towing at about 65 most of the way on the day with the TPS acting up. The return trip (same route, maybe a little slower because of rain) I haven't refilled again yet but the gauge is a good 1/8 of the way higher so I'm hoping for better. The return trip is technically more uphill by about 1000 feet so that's a good sign. If it is that much more gas in there it will be more like 13.4 mpg so fingers crossed that TPS was messing with economy.

The way home I did have a different problem, a muffler clamp separated and opened the exhaust up. I was able to find a NAPA and got a little section of pipe and a couple of clamps and fixed it in a downpour in the parking lot but had to drive 50 miles trying to avoid 1650-1850 rpm in 6th where a deafening drone was present.

Overall not a good test, to many problems, to many variables. If it's only going to be 10.73 mpg I'm not happy, 13.4 would make me happy. The truck can certainly effortlessly pull the camper at least.

slowmover 04-19-2017 06:13 AM

As always, towing penalty should be about 40% where all else is the same. That last bit often overlooked: truck needs to weigh the same is one, and towing speed should be the same as solo. Use of cruise control makes for better comparison.

At this point in trucks life, getting repairs done plus all book maintenance to date is crucial.

At highway speeds with an aero penalty trailer, it takes very little to drop mpg like a stone where computer is confused.

Have you run a route of about 200-miles? Out and back? Think of it as the test track. From a truck stop with a Cat Scale. Apples to apples (not yet happening for you).

Trailer axle leaf suspension broken down and rebuilt? Axles aligned? Shock absorbers installed? Hitch weight verified? Etc.

So, past truck issues, both trailer and the lash up need to be gone over.

Just the WD setting with mine being off was worth over 2-mpg. At 55.

Hersbird 04-19-2017 12:41 PM

I didn't want to make this long run my first run but my dad is sick and my, and my brother's family made a run to visit and help him with some land cleanup before fire season. He has a very small house so the camper was needed. Overall a great trip even with a few problems.

Hersbird 04-19-2017 03:27 PM

I did notice that when pulling a hill, nothing major just an average uphill, that the EGT would get to say 1000-1100 in 6th but the boost would stay lower say 18 psi. If I shifted to 5th I would get lower EGT by 100-200 but more boost by 4-6psi. No change in speed, just the gear. So what's better for economy, lower EGT or lower boost?

Steady state, flat land 60 mph it runs about 675 EGT and 9 psi boost.

gumby79 04-19-2017 11:52 PM

Peek torque +- 50rpm( check for your motor / tune) should be your sweet spot BSFC below consumption rises fast. Hold peak as long as you can then down shift . What is the rpm difference from 6 to 5? I assume@60mph.
---
Computer/ tuner may be the limiting factor keeping your motor from being able to hurt it self at or above 1,200°f with a 100°f buffer. Or if slower than peek to far there may not be enough gass flow to provide more boost.

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Is egt probe before or after turbo?......... there is an aproxamitly 250°f drop across the turbo...
----z
With my stock tuning 1000°@15psi ,cold side, is all I can do normally 1100 with enough speed and grill block, empty

Hersbird 04-20-2017 08:04 AM

The rpm at 60 is about 1800 in 6th and 2200 in 5th if I remember right. The EGT is just before the turbo. It will go much higher than 1100 and will boost up to 31-32 psi where the waste gate opens and puts it about 29 psi. The EGTs then go over 1400. I try to stay away from that kind of boost and temp instead letting it lose some speed and just slow down some on the really steep passes.

Hersbird 04-24-2017 07:44 PM

The return trip did worked out to be 12.4 mpg so better but still not great.

darknightdiesel 04-25-2017 11:35 PM

Hi,

New here but just make sure your running fuel supplement, your truck was designed to run on LSD fuel and only ULSD is available at the pump,

The ULSD fuel has too low a cetane rating and not enough lubrication, its not compatible,

slowmover 04-26-2017 07:28 AM

As always, addressed to anyone with an overpowered TD pickup:

6-6-6 Rule

60 mph
600F
6-psi

It doesn't mean much in practice. It's representative. Diesels like to be worked. Which is more important.

All one does is to establish habits which make for best conditions: avoidance of other traffic the priority. Safety, and economy follows. As an exemplary habit, back off to get other traffic around faster. Crowds or individuals. Thus, "managing" traffic means more than set speed rpm, MAP or EGT.

Turbodiesels are not gasoline motors. Throw out that thinking. Doesn't apply. High cylinder pressure is a different motor. Increases to vehicle weight and grade ascents don't affect them the same. Let it tell you what it wants. It will.

Drop from Overdrive to Direct as needed. Let the engine work. Percent engine load is more useful than EGT or MAP. Don't exceed 80%, as a rule. Experience will make smooth. Anticipation, how to shift (not when), how to maintain headway will come with practice.

Focused on mpg will not give results desired. You wouldn't hike that way. You'd have establish a good pace. Neither fatiguing nor apprehensive. The goal with both is to not arrive exhausted. Even tired.

It takes practice. Mindfulness you've already got. But apply it to the flow. Headway.

Fix the mechanical items. Measure those relationships (in spec). Then let it run as God and Clessie intended.

These days I'm running a smoothbore tanker. No internal baffles. 5000-gals in a 7000-gal tank. "Anticipation" is all I do. Can't stop, can't lane change and can't regain speed without an opposite (sometimes dangerous) reaction from that product sloshing around. To maintain headway I have to accept low mpg in some situations, as controlling the rig (and that liquid) is paramount. Take a page from this book: deal with traffic, terrain and weather for best outcome. Road & Load. Lane-centered and still upright. Let mpg take of itself. It will.

This rig sports a revving 12L Cummins. Not a big power 15L. I complete ten gear changes when loaded before I hit 15-mph. 250-rpm shifts. With another eight to go if I'll be running top speed. Try for some relative stasis with that fluid back there. Done badly it will literally stop me in my tracks. When to shift is "simple"enough (time according to slosh; wave periodicity and two waves at once make it interesting), but how to bring the engine back into engagement is another.

One has to have enough power at the re-engagement point to be smooth. This isn't different than with my personal rig. I'm not aimed at a particular FE rpm, but the one based on power. (The throttle exists only to move between gears).

One looks to the percentage change from loaded to empty. For this work rig it is from loaded to empty. At this stage it looks like 25% (early days). Remember that the addition or subtraction of 43,000-lbs is the only change. Your comparisons MUST be as exact to arrive at a solid baseline (once repairs and maintenance are complete).

The only thing that matters is the average (predictability), and the percentage change to that average on an annualized basis in order to decipher fuel economy. Work done well first, and cents-per-mile second.

slowmover 04-30-2017 09:07 PM

See the 2011 discussion: What is Engine Load Percentage (Ultragauge Question).

My long winded bit above is more icing than cake. Trying for context. Throttle is always going to be moved or dropped, long periods of no throttle in anticipation of downshifting, etc. How to be smooth in transitory states, I should have stated, is the meat on the bone. Not exceeding 80% of maximum means a limit on throttle movement to change from one state to another.

Driver has to be well out ahead of the truck (as pilots say of aircraft). Throttle changes may no hurt as much as with a gasser, but extended periods aren't warranted either. I'd rather drop gears, and then transition back up.

In a loaded pickup towing a fair sized trailer, this may mean slowing more than one expects. To drop a gear. And then another.

The rule for hill climbing is to drop low enough in gearing to be able to accelerate up the grade. That's usually the gear with which to descend.

Alternately, in accelerating onto a highway I don't wind the truck out till Fourth. Redline in Fourth and Direct really works. Makes up for being slow in lower gears as one can now maintain boost between gears. (Assumes a busy highway). Don't slide into Overdrive too soon. And get out of it (towing; heavy) early. Thus the bit about long periods of waiting. Feels long. (That how to shift business). With "80%" as an upper Engine Load limit, tailor other matters to suit.

Experiment.

I've run the big truck 6000-miles now. Learned to control that fluid slosh. What cruise control speed is best based on usual parameters. Same geographical region and temps. Overall average is from 5.8 to 6.5. Or, 12%. (That would have you to near 14-mpg).

"Feel" is crucial. Big picture versus details of gauge readings.


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