New study shows 0 impact of a clogged air filter on fuel injected cars
From EPA site:
http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/pdfs/...02_26_2009.pdf It was instead (obviously) on carburetor cars. |
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!
I've been telling people this for years, and they have been telling me I'm wrong for years citing those cards on parts counters as evidence that I am wrong. |
I always thought this was mostly obvious...
It's the reason I don't change my air filter, or just don't use one (instead, I use a T-shirt.) |
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In carburated cars, a clogged filter alters the air/fuel ratio and degrades both performance and economy. |
...ain't it wonderful that computers are able to "correct & compensate" for lazy car owners (wink,wink)?
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So, does this also have a corollary effect on the discussions of ram air, and warm air induction?
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This would only be true for non turbo gas engines I belive. So keep your airfilter on your diesel og turbo car in good shape - clean that is!
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negative boost is negative boost, regardless of the engine type. The only difference is the carbed cars don't dynamically adjust fueling, that's all.
All this study is saying in the end is that even if your filter is clogged, the negative boost is never enough to have a significant impact on fuel economy when driven in normal conditions. A free flowing filter is always better, but so marginally better it's insignificant. Ram air reduces, and can even negate, negative boost, but again it's not much significant under normal driving conditions. WAI has ramifications in the combustion process itself so it's not just about negative boost in that case. |
This makes perfect sense--The AFM only measures that comes into the unit through the filter, clogged or not. The fuel trims will adjust for the airflow and not be effected by the restriction before the monitoring device.
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...of course, all this "adjustment" is predicated upon the precision of the incoming measurement(s)...which are usually "close enough" at their design-center, but certainly NOT so at the edges/limits of their operating "ranges."
...Flex-Fuel vehicles, with their much WIDER-range sensors and computer algorithms, will probably be affected by this much LESS than the remaining 85% of the cars on the road (pun intended). |
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Not true, a completely plugged air filter will result in 0 MPG, as in the engine will no longer run.
If it is removed it will result in the same 0 MPG from the engine dieing of sludge. |
dirty air filter
I thought that ICE is an air pump and if it has to work harder to suck air through it will take a little more energy to accomplish this. apparently not a lot.:)
Paul |
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I'm not really willing to use this as an excuse to neglect maintenance...
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The article studied putting show towels over the air filters to simulate a plugged filter to see the effect on MPG. In the real world the filter will either eventually become completely plugged so the engine will no longer run, or the filter will collapse under the vacuum and the engine will slowly fill up with dirt until it no longer runs. Both will result in 0 MPG. I have seen both, the filter plugging is the easiest fix. Working on a sludge engine is horrible. If you are saying that this studies says your Otto cycle internal combustion engine no longer needs oxygen to burn fuel then you had better reread the study yourself. |
I to have thought that a restricted intake would increase mpg , I think that's why my vw tdi gets such great mileage, it has 225,000km on it and the 1.9 tdi is notorious for clogging its intake from the EGR.
In effect lowering the cars hp and subsequently the fuel consumption as the cars computer always maintain a clean burn threw the fuel injectors. I expect when and if I clean my intakes filth out my hp will increase and economy will decrease, unless i can drive like a saint 100% of the time. |
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I don't care what anyone says, but a Clogged air filter is not good for your car.
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The worse thing is called media migration. That's where vibration or filter ware just causes chunks of dirt packed filter media to break free and be ingested by the engine.
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If the engine looses power, there's going to be a point where you need to floor it more often, that means fuel enrichment and worse MPG.
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I think some people are taking the term "clogged" too literally. There's a difference between having a sandbox in your airbox and going an extra 10k miles between air filter changes (I'm sure many quick lube shops would love for you to replace it with every oil change). The biggest take away for me is that freer flowing filters like K&N are very unlikely to increase your mileage, so you might as well stick with the OEM filter.
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Very unlikely to increase mileage, but guaranteed to allow more stuff into your engine.
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On bitog forum vehicles with K&N type filters tend to have 3 to 5 times the Si content in the oil as compared to paper filter vehicles. Used oil analysis tests after using paper then K&N and back to paper air filter tests have been done.
If you are a stupid redneck or ricer kid that blows up their vehicles engine every 20,000m or less then K&N is perfect for you. If you want to keep your engine going past 100,000 miles or have a turbocharger then use paper. If you drive in a dusty environment use paper. |
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