NGK/NTK O2 sensor on Amazon
Everybody says over and over that for the VX\HX, you absolutely need to purchase the OEM sensor--except for Balto the Lone Wolf:
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Price: $143.10 It looks like the OEM one works better than the eBay one from http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...sor-21933.html. Does everybody need to replace this sooner or later? At current prices, a $400 sensor would pay for six thousand miles' worth of gas! |
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Here: Amazon.com: NGK 24300 Oxygen Sensor - NGK/NTK Packaging: Automotive
It literally even says right on the notes: Notes: Upstream, 2, 4, NTK is the OE Mfg One reviewer put: Just like the other reviewer stated, this is the correct Wide Band Oxygen Sensor that is needed for the 1992 (both California and Federal version) or 1993 and newer (Federal version only) Civic VX's to operate correctly. I installed it to replace an older sensor and it engages and disengages lean burn much more smoothly than my previous sensor (the previous sensor was still good and did not throw a check engine light yet). Another user reviewed: I bought a 99 Civic HX manual transmission and right after I drove it home the check engine came on! code was 1162. I followed the shop manual diagnosis flow chart and it was indicated as a bad ECM unit. I replaced the ECM and no success! Checked the wiring with multimeter and there was no problem. Finally I decided to bite the bullet and buy the expensive primary O2 sensor (dealer asks $ 600+). First I ordered the cheapest compatible wide band (5 wire) O2 sensor which was Delphi brand but I returned it without installing it because I heard Hondas are compatible only with a few brands of O2 sensors. The old O2 sensor on my car was NTK so I bought the exact same sensor (NTK 24300) on Amazone for 199.98. It came in about 3 days and happily resolved the Check engine light problem. My car didn't have any symptoms and was working really smooth even with check engine light on. The gas mileage was between 34-42 MPG but it improved significantly after changing the sensor and a fresh tune up (NGK wires, Denso cap and rotor, NGK ZFR4F-11 spark plugs). Now I'm averaging 50+ MPG! Make sure you clean all the ground electrical connections as well as the connection between battery negative pole and car body. Do not trust the ohm meter because a bad connection can make electrical noise even when the ohm meter shows 0.1 ohm. The wire itself can be rusted in the connector to the battery. |
I read the reviews, but there were not many. I wanted feedback from my esteemed colleagues, not just faceless Internet personalities.
I will go ahead and order it, then will provide feedback here and there. |
I cleaned the ground terminals back when we had some kid on here saying "earth" instead of "ground." Then he got banned. I forget his name or exactly what he was saying, I just remember cleaning all of my connections.
I did a search for the OEM sensor and found this: NTK 24300 $175 plus four dollars to ship. That will do. |
I replaced the oxygen sensor with the one that I linked some weeks ago. It is supposed to be the exact same one that Honda uses, but the CEL returned today, with the same code. Is my very expensive oxygen sensor bad or could there be another problem?
Aren't they prone to an even more expensive failure? |
My wife's Integra use to do the same thing. I had replaced the O2 sensor and the catalytic converter twice each (warranty) and checked the wires many times yet the code kept coming back, sometimes the next day sometimes a couple weeks later. Sorry I don't have the answer as that car developed other issues and was traded.
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I just bought a generic one online for $ 17. I'll let you know if it even works, and for how long.
I bought a Bosch brand O2 sensor around 8 - 10,000 miles ago, and already the thing is giving me sporadic CEL warning. |
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My amazon ntk sensor is going 5 years strong according to the file of receipts that came with the car |
The manifold looks original, it is old! It at least should be OEM, from what I have seen, aftermarket ones are much thinner. If I actually have a cracked manifold, like I was told (by some random guy) a while ago, that should explain the CEL and why my heat shield rattles. I like blaming other people! :) Perhaps the shop that replaced my timing belt did that, it did not do that before!
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