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Old 05-20-2014, 09:21 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Sorry, I am late to the party, it seems like your diagram worked perfectly, but I hoped to make it a little clearer for anyone else:


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Old 05-20-2014, 10:08 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I used a 4" hole saw and a 1/2 " drill that I already owned. Your plan should work fine also.
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Old 05-20-2014, 10:14 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Another point. When I added the 2 adjustable shutters on the VX, I just enlarged the 2 - 4" holes to a 5" X 12" rectangle to accommodate the shutters. No need to redo the rest of the air dam.
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Old 05-22-2014, 05:50 PM   #14 (permalink)
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nose installation update

I've installed the 14x90" nose, which looks great. I took the civic for an 8 mile test drive partly on freeway, and the rest city main streets with several long delays at the lights getting 40 mpg (not bad for that route). My impression is that the car doesn't accelerate as quickly and doesn't seem to coast as far on the freeway, but I'm not sure of this yet due to the lights.

It looks similar to The donkey CRX's nose, except comes out 3 inches more forward at the bottom than the top. The nose height is 6" from the ground in the middle, tapering to 3.5 to 4" just in front of the wheels. I hit the bottom pulling into the driveway woohoo!

Is it possible the nose is too low and causing greater resistance?

Should I make the bottom 6" (or 7") across except in front of the wheels, or wait and test it first on a trip?
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Old 05-22-2014, 06:10 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I'm thinking we need some pics to help better
Are you monitoring your temps w/ a scangauge? It could feel more sluggish even if it's more aero due to temps. If the coasting on the freeway is in gear, it may not seem to do as well because higher temps may give you a lower idle.
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Old 05-24-2014, 07:23 PM   #16 (permalink)
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nose height & closure

Here are photos of the nose, and one of the pvc spacers extending the bumper. Thanks to a comment by The donkey CRX, I trimmed the entire nose to 7" from the ground, and averaged 55.0 mpg on my trip.



The 25 sq in hole worked well. The coolant was mostly in the 190s and up to 206 maximum. I'd like to improve the cooling without making the hole any bigger. This was my first trip with the car being white.



Perhaps closing off the space under the pvc spacers to be even with the belly, and ducting from the hole to the radiator will help. I'm also thinking to trim the nose a bit more, so it will flow smoothly to the belly and not any lower.

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Old 05-24-2014, 11:04 PM   #17 (permalink)
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John, I think it looks great! Adding the additional items you mention seem like good ideas to me. Basjoos mentioned something about radiator ducts working better if you have a length of ducting from the nose to the radiator.
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Old 05-24-2014, 11:41 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnlvs2run View Post
If I understand correctly, the flow at C will just go straight back, not up,
not provide cooling to the radiator, and neither will the opening cause any drag.

I was hoping to avoid a hole in the plastic, but that looks to be the easier route.
I think what aerohead is describing is easier than a hole in the plastic. Get some lawn edging and create the airdam, duct the opening inlet to the radiator. You'll have at least as much difficulty cutting the hole in your plastic, and you'll lose part of the aero benefit your trying to achieve by cutting. The airdam is also much better in regards to under carriage drag. Aerohead's is the better route, IMHO. Good luck.

EDIT: Nevermind! I just saw your pics of the hole you cut. I does look nice and clean, but you still might want some ducting, no?

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See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.



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