O-ring vs Non o-ring chains
 

I remember a thread a while back about this and thought I'd give more input.
A non o-ring chain is lighter and has less friction than it's o-ring counterpart.

At Road Atlanta back in the 90's, the difference was worth 7 mph.

Now, at the time I was always using one of the crappy (which one isn't) spray lubes, and have enough knowledge about it now that I am using used motor oil.

You ask 'WHY' used motor oil, well, to keep a non o-ring chain very well lubed it takes more effort than the normal person (non anal) can give, so an auto oiler is where we need to be.

Gear oil is very good for non o-ring chains, but is very thick and that is when it is 80+F. SAE40 which is equal to a 90 gear oil at 212f, is even too thick for a 'vacuum release' oiling system at 80F.

So, a multi-weight 10w40, 15w40 or 20w50 can work out very well even when cold. The best reason for using it is that you aren't using brand new oil on a total loss system. Recycling, green, whatever.

There are several auto oilers on the market, but you can build one much cheaper, and the FE benefit looks to be worth 10% over using spray lubes which gunk up the chain. All the chains/sprockets I've been through before now have been using one of the various spray lubes, that gunk and kink up the chain.

There is no such thing as a maintenance-free chain, they need to be kept clean and oiled on a daily basis.

i agree about the spray can chainlube products--to me they are more trouble than they are worth and make more problems than they solve.

i keep my chains oiled up and they last a long time. Plus i keep them on the slack side--chain tension set too tight accelerates wear and increases friction, too loose is better than too tight when it comes to chain tension.

I use a Pro-oiler on my F650 Dakar. It works pretty good once you get all the settings worked out, almost too many options. You can adjust the amount of lube being pumped while you ride if you placve the control in a handy place. It has a list of pro/con on various lubes. I settled on ATF since I have many many quarts of it laying around from a previous job, folks have reported good life using it, it cleans up easy with soap n water, I have an o-ring chain that reportedly a thiner weight oil like ATF is good with.. I also have gear lube handy but I hate the smell of the stuff. There are mixed arguments about using used oil since used has grim in it and the cleaning agents are used up. Course, road grim is catching on the chain while you ride and it's not exactly "clean".

Any lube is better than no lube. ;-)

I purchased a system since I didn't have the free time to come up with a DIY system. I check the reservoir, keep an eye on the chain, add a few clicks if it looks dry or if I ride in the rain or take away if it looks too wet and ride. Almost a ride and forget it chain maintenance.

I did an experiment in the early 90's on my GPz550 with non-Oring chain using a Scottoiler vs can lube. The Scottoiler performed as stated and actually DID extend chain life by better than 3 times, based on stretch (or wear) rate. This was using new 10-40 engine oil. Used oil is the way to go as there is still plenty of lubrication properties left for a chain. And why not?

Based on the cost of a chain and sprockets vs the Scottoiler, the Scottoiler would pay for itsself before the chain and sprockets wore out. 428 and smaller chains are often so cheap that it may not pay out in those cases. A no-brainer investment if you ride a few miles on a 250 or larger bike with a 520 or larger chain.

What I really like is the ability to change ratios on the chain drive while keeping maintenance hassles to a minimum. My current shaftie is smooth, clean, quiet and nearly maintenance free, but the gearing is just way too low. I wish a gearing change wasn't so expensive for the shaftie.

They say the Scottoiler works off road but I didn't find success. The wet chain attracted lots and lots of dirt and didn't flow enough to keep it very clean. O-ring chains seem to me best suited to the dirt.

I haven't tried the DIY oil squirters. Seems like a good choice for the next chain drive bike in the garage.

another cheap option for oiling chains from the CBOA over on ADVrider, put the oil of choice in old eye drop squeaze bottles or contact lense solution squeaze bottles. when you stop for fuel squirt it on your chain. Works easier if you have a center stand and can rotate the wheel/chain while squeazing it on.

People running bikes like MZs or early Bultaco Matadors or Yamaha TR1("The TR1 has rear drive by a totally enclosed chain running in lithium-based grease") with enclosed chains report 30-60K miles on a set of chains and sprockets. How many quarts of oil will a chain oiler dump on the ground in that distance?

Motorcycles are hard on chains as they run open and are often transmitting much more horsepower than they should for a long life. Look at industrial chain drives, they'll often be not only enclosed but include an oil or grease bath to ensure the chain is always lubed.

The drawback is that it adds some weight and complexity.

You can pay up front for the enclosure and replace chain and sprockets a lot less frequently, or maintain an exposed chain and replace the chain and sprockets somewhat less frequently.

cheers,
Michael