Odyssey 1998 Honda Auto - build thread
 

This thread will document my modifications to an older 1998 Honda Odyssey (1st generation with car doors not sliding doors!)

The challenges:
-mods that the other half can tolerate. That is, the vehicle needs to look stock or unnoticeably different. To put it another way, the modifications need to not cause questions from others.

***If you know information or have experience with this generation of Odyssey I would appreciate your advice.***

Cheers,
Benphyr

These lists will be updated as changes occur.

Current Modifications:
-vent visors (from previous owner)
-upper grill block - tape
-partial lower grill block - tape
-tires inflated to 40psi

Plans/ideas:
-manual control of torque converter lockup (override to locked status)
-Manual control of gear selection
-black Kamback like new Odyssey has
-wheel covers to replace worn out hubcaps
-undertray
-mirror covers (aeropods)
-interior mirrors
-antenna delete

Specs from Honda
 

http://owners.honda.com/vehicles/information/1998/Odyssey/specs#mid^RA386WEW

4 Speed Automatic LX-7

Engine
Type: Aluminum-Alloy In-Line 4
Displacement (cc): 2253
Horsepower @ rpm (SAE net): 150 @ 5600
Torque (lb.-ft. @ rpm): 152 @ 4500
Compression Ratio: 9.3: 1
Valve Train: 16-Valve SOHC
Fuel System: Multi-PointProgrammed Fuel Injection
Ignition System: Electronic

Drivetrain
Type: Front-Wheel Drive
Automatic Transmission: 4-Speed
Final Drive Ratio: 4.785:1

Body/Suspension/Chassis
Body Type: Unit Body
Suspension: 4-Wheel Double Wishbone
Stabilizer Bar (mm, front/rear): 30.0/13.0
Steering Type: Variable-Assist,Power Rack-and-Pinion
Turning Diameter, Curb-to-Curb (ft.): 37.7
4-Wheel Disc Brakes with 4-Wheel ABS
Wheels: 15" with Full Covers
Tires: All-Season: P205/65 R15

Exterior Dimensions
Wheelbase (in.): 111.4
Length (in.): 187.6
Height (in.): 64.6
Width (in.): 70.6
Track (in., front/rear): 60.0/60.8
Curb Weight (lbs.): 3450 (6-Passenger)3472 (7-Passenger)

Interior Dimensions
Headroom (in., front/middle/rear): 40.1/39.3/37.5
Legroom (in., front/middle/rear): 40.7/40.2/34.0
Shoulder Room (in., front/middle/rear): 57.1/57.9/47.6
Hiproom (in., front/middle/rear): 53.3/53.1/40.9
Cargo Volume (Behind rear seat/rear seat folded, cu. ft.): 9.8/45.9
Cargo Volume (maximum, cu. ft.): 102.5 (6-Passenger) 93.5 (7-Passenger)
Passenger Volume (cu. ft.): 152.8

Exterior Features
4 Side Doors
Rear Window Wiper/Washer
Remote Entry System: Accessory
Dual Power Mirrors
Alloy Wheels: Accessory
Full Wheel Covers
Body Side Moulding
5-mph Impact-AbsorbingBody-Colored Bumpers

Interior Features
Dual Airbags (SRS)
Front Bucket Seats with Armrests
Power Windows with Auto-DownDriver's Window
Power Door and Tailgate Locks
Cruise Control
Front and Rear Air Conditioning
AM/FM High-Power Stereo Cassette: 4x12.5-watt
Map Lights: Accessory
Quartz Digital Clock
Adjustable Steering Column
Tachometer
Seatback Pocket
Beverage Holders: Fr/Md/Rr
s-Speed/Variable Intermittent Windshield Wipers
Front 3-Point Seat Beltswith Adjustable Anchors
2nd-Row 3-Point Seat Belts: with Center Lap Belt (7-Passenger)
3rd-Row 3-Point Seat Belts
2nd-Row Seats: Removable Bucket Seats w/Armrests (6-Passenger) 50/50 Split Fold-Down Bench Seat (7 Passenger)
3rd-Row RetractableFold-Down Bench Seat
Remote Fuel Filler Door Release
Tailgate-Open Warning Light
Rear Window Defroster with Timer
Low-Fuel Warning Light
Cargo Area Light
Cargo Area Storage Bin
Upper and Lower Glove Compartments
Dual Illuminated Vanity Mirrors
Rear Seat Heater Ducts
Maintenance Interval Indicator

EPA Mileage Estimates*/Fuel Capacity
City/Highway: 21/26
Fuel (gal.): 17.2

Specs from Edmunds - including profile images
 

An undertray, grill block and wheel covers(if done right) would be the best way to go with picking up a few mpg (aside from driving style). If your other half drives the vehicle, I would not advise a grill block unless temps are going to be watched.

God gave me a Kammback
 

I didn't even dare use the Kammback for visibility and fear of causing an accident if/when the large chunk of snow falls off in front of someone!

You might even notice a partial smooth wheel cover and wheel boat tails...

http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-be...cf7541-4-3.jpg

grill block / engine heat
 

Undertray and wheel covers are distant future considerations right now. The nut behind the wheel is probably close to as adjusted as it will get but the ScanGauge will keep us striving. I'm not too concerned about the grill block at present since it is winter, it takes a looong time to warm up still and only really kicks out the heat when we are going up steep hills which are measurably short and returns to barely keeping the interior windows clear all the rest of the time.

Thanks for the suggestions. Do you know where I can find what temperatures 1998 Hondas (specifically Odyssey) would have thermostat open, fan 1 and fan 2 kick on? That would help guarantee we aren't overheating it right?

My parents' have a 1997 Odyssey and it heats up quickly in cold weather. You need a new OEM thermostat.

The underside of these vans is really rough. Limiting airflow under the van should help.

We just had the thermostat replaced a couple months ago. It is much better than it was with a dead thermostat, maybe the comparison with our previous vehicle, a 2005 Civic with half the kilometers, is an unfair comparison.

Thanks for the tip on the underside - I think I'll wait until after the -20 weather to take a look at what can be done.

Thanks!

block heater added
 

Cold starts at -21oC or colder had the engine complaining and turning over maybe half the speed of normal. Hard on the battery and engine!

So a few days ago we added a 430W block heater. It is a small element that replaces a bolt in the engine block and heats the coolant. The coolant heats transfers heat to the block. The coolant may be circulated by convection thus sharing the heat with more of the block (though I cannot verify this).

The difference in starting is significant. Yesterday it was -21 and the engine started moderately easily. The coolant temperature by the time I looked at my ScanGauge was 20oC. Today it is -20oC and I will remember to check coolant temperature right away and what the minimum it gets once the engine is on and the water pump is circulating. That may be a more accurate gauge of how much the engine is warmed.

block heater brings -20oC to 12oC
 

Block heater brings -20oC exterior temperature overnight to 12oC engine coolant temperature.

A later date I forgot to turn off the circuit for the block heater so it was on all night. Morning exterior temperature was -5 to 0oC and the engine coolant temperature was 28oC.

1998 Honda Odyssey 403,000km (250,000mi) and still running...barely.

Mechanics don't want to touch it.

Does the brain trust have any suggestions?

Runs, starts but has issues. Sometimes when going from idle at a stop to accelerate it will lose power so it is cough, vroom, cough vroom, but quicker and lower rpm more like cut power, catch, within one or two seconds repeat of cut power, catch, cut power, catch. This happens more when weather is warm, humid also may be a problem. It did this many times today and yesterday after it was warmed up in the afternoon, several times today it completely stalled. Bad ones sometimes can smell gasoline.

It is always worst when starting to accelerate from a stop or very slow travel and adding in a little throttle to get started or accelerate even gently. Once rpm are higher it goes away or once it has gotten enough momentum it smooths out and decreases. It still feels a little rough to me but that could be my imagination too.

Information that may be extraneous or helpful:
-gas tank, brake pads and rotors, lines as needed, were replaced just over a year ago.
-I have a complete Parts van, same year, same vehicle, even same colour.
-EGR valve throws MIL since several years ago - we ignoring it - mechanic said it is not crucial but would cost to replace, may be a pain to track down fully, and the parts one didn't seem to solve the MIL.
-I have a ScanGauge II so I scan the codes frequently and ignore the EGR code while checking for others.
-One of the events today resulted in the oil pressure light flashing (I assume due to low rpm but not quite complete stall - correct me if I am wrong).
-I believe this issue has grown slowly for years and has been at an "unreliable vehicle lose-power-when-accelerating-from-low-rpm" stage for a year.
-distributor, cap, rotor, wires have all been replaced within the last year with new aftermarket parts or ones from the Parts van
-valve gasket has been replaced due to a very minor leak at a bolt.
-PCV valve from Parts van
-MAP sensor from Parts van tonight - didn't seem to make a difference
-topped up coolant and engine oil today just in case

If you have suggestions of relatively easy things I can try that are not too hard for a not confident but reasonably mechanically inclined owner...

Cheers,

Ben.

I assume you tried new spark plugs, but I don't see it mentioned. Kinda sounds like an ignition issue to me. Looks like you've replaced the rest.

Try swapping injectors? Crank it with the fuel pump relay or fuse pulled out to relieve pressure first.

Try swapping the ECM? If it's accessible and doesn't contain an immobilizer, it might be an easy thing to try. Honda ECMs rarely go bad, but it's possible.

Engine grounds good?

Check fuel pressure?

Back in the day type 3 from 1970's EFI would start having random firing issues, ditto for toyotas a decade later. The fix was finding all the ground points and cleaning then, then make sure the contacts snugly fitted the connector. Was all low voltage stuff, couple or three volts signal very sensitive to a different sense voltage.

My son's 1990 toyota will fail smog on a dirty engine, passes with a clean one.

@metrompg
@daox
The ICE on the 1998 Honda Odyssey is significantly tired.
Is there anyone in the Hamilton Ontario area that does our kind of EV conversions. Ie. on the cheap? I would love to buy a few years worth of short distance functionality out of this machine.

Is an engine overhaul, or even replacing engine and transmission with the ones of a wrecked C-RV or Accord for instance, totally out of question?