OG's VX Build: HyperMile Driving with some JDM Styling
 

Hello all,
I've been around Honda's for years. I've built up plenty of them for looks/performance solely, but now that I'm a bit older, I've found my taste and priorities have changed. I have a 80 mile round trip to work in Charlotte each day, and I wanted to buy a Honda with the best mileage possible. Last week, after some google research on EPA mileage ratings, I narrowed down my list to either the 84-85 CRX HF or a 92-95 Civic VX. It was about this time that I stumbled upon the term "Hypermiling". I thought that the estimated EPA ratings for the VX were already amazing, but after seeing some more extreme stats from postings on this forum and others, the possibilities for driving and modding a car for higher FE really began to intrigued me. The VX was the obvious choice for me over the CRX, since I have two young children and would need a back seat for them when they (very) occasionally ride along with me. I've also always wanted an EG Civic, as I love the looks of these cars. Lastly, I've already completed an '86 CRX SI build in the past, and just finding un-cracked door/nose/fender/rocker plastics was a continual nightmare with those cars. I quickly found a very clean VX in South Carolina on my local CL. That was on Wednesday two weeks ago. The previous owner/seller was a great guy all-around, and I had the car back in my garage the following Saturday.

I'm really excited about this "build", as it will be geared with a different set of performance goals from that of any projects I've done in the past. The learning curve will be high for me since I know little about driving/modding for extreme mileage. A primary goal is that my work on this car should actually put money BACK in my pocket. I'm also hoping this will keep my wife a good bit happier than she has been while enduring past projects :thumbup:

Project Goal: Eventually hit 65-mpg average, stout/healthy/reliable motor, on-board FE monitoring electronics, decent comfort, moderate FE aero modifications but w/ a hint of JDM styling throughout the build.

Really excited to be here. Some GREAT info. and contributors on this forum. I'll be back tomorrow with all of the pics and my first modifications.

nice!

I can't wait! It's nice to see someone who can see the fun in both styles of driving. I can't wait to see some pics of the car, also post some background, how many miles, condition of underbelly, overall condition.

Last but not least, welcome to ecomodder forums!

Maybe I'm not the only one with a 3" exhaust then? Sweet.
Just lowered today 4" slam! 4 inch coil over kit. New apx sensen shocks, front and rear camber kits, rear lower control arms, about 4 broken bolts and lots of cussing later (I'll post pics soon)

Can't wait to see what other part time go fast ecomodders are doing!

This is a pretty good before profile:

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2kmuwing.jpg

parts installed:

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...psxfabpzvd.jpg
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...pseaccm2eo.jpg
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...psyhx9ldr4.jpg
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...psbrtmvpw5.jpg


End result:

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...psgtny0odu.jpg

4 inches of drop. Going in for an alignment tomorrow. Can't wait to see what this does for my mileage!

If you're curious about the ride, I'd say: because racecar! It makes me want to go out and get a " no fat chicks my car will scrape " sticker!

Do your wheels bow out ridiculously like all the other ricer kids cars do? Because that honestly looks so ugly.

Its called camber and most of the children who lower any car do not understand suspension geometry at all.
Too much camber will cause all of the vehicles load to be carried on the tires inside shoulder, wearing them out in a fraction of the normal time, it will also increase stopping distances and ruin handling.

If the alignment place cant bring your camber back to normal then there is no point in lowering it that much for "fuel economy" because its just going to eat up tires.

How much traction would excessively-cambered tires have?

Does not sound fast or smart.

This one kid at the mechanic my dad takes his car to has excessive camber, he goes through 45k rated tires in 5k miles or less. I didn't ask him about traction but because they are technically driving on the sidewall, probably not much.

Absolutely not. I'm in it for the mileage. Notice the camber adjustment parts for the front and rear? My stock rears were starting to eat tires, so I went and did it right. First I'll get under the wind, then I'll talk about panning the underside.

I'm sure I mentioned the alignment. It's had to be put off til tomorrow actually because I'm too low to get on any alignment racks near me.

I promise the settings will be all zeros. Camber and toe.

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...psbrtmvpw5.jpg

The turnbuckle looking ones in the left are for the rear. Cheaters will put washers behind the stock mounts to regain lost camber due to worn bushings.

The ones on the right straddle the front coil overs, and you can adjust front camber where the stock upper ball joint is.

I replaced the lower control arms because you just about have to cut the bushings apart to get them out, and the pretty blue ones were cheaper than stock.


If you want to cheat and line up your rear tires, it usually takes 2 washers behind each bolt (4 total) and most cars will sit pretty again. Since I've got a slave wage mechanic (me), this is only about a $350 mod, including the alignment, all new shocks/struts, Springs and coil overs, and lower control arms, and full front and rear camber kit!

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...psrozcsob5.jpg

just took this pic for you, Baltothewolf! The top of my front actually looks like it's leaning out right now (really hard to dial in on the driveway), but the rears are pretty straight up and down. Tomorrow all four will sit right.

I didn't know there was a way to do it, the kid at the shop told me that there is no way to keep it from bowing out. Why the red bumper? Is that a replacement? I thought about doing a black front/rear bumper when I repaint my civic purple but was unsure about it. Meh.

You really trust the opinion of a ricer kid? :)

Camber kits are not all that expensive and they are a must if you lower your car AND want to save on tire wear.

No I didn't but I didn't want to argue with him. I knew he was full of crap because my uncle lowered my Mustang by 2 1/2 inches when he had it, and the tires don't bow out because he put a camber kit on it.

To OP

modding for performance and modding for fuel efficiency share a lot of the same parts...only for different purposes

1) lowering ride height (reduce frontal area)
2) weight savings - lightweight parts
3) aerodynamics (f1 style mirrors decrease frontal area....smooth underbelly helps reduce air resistance....front air dams direct air away from under the car...etc)

However, most important change you can make is DRIVING STYLE...any mods you do to the car will help fuel efficiency incrementally on top of driving style.

After a while, it becomes a game. Before, you would mod for an extra 5 hp. Now you mod you mod for an extra 2mpg

Have fun!

That's why I jumped on this thread, for sure! Jdm dual vtec d15b

by the way, the bumper and one front quarter panel were red when I got the car. I got the quarter panel green, stepped back to look at it, and thought KANJO! After I find my lightweight rims and lrr tires, it's going to need at least 3 colors to make the minion happy!

Now that looks good! I enjoy seeing properly lowered vehicles. I wonder what kind of mpg increase that will give you.

I'd love to break 50. Maybe averaging up a few for now. .. still gotta do the kill switch


wow. The minion's headlights used to be pretty even with mechita's


GHETTO LOWERING KIT:
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...psb1d02494.jpg

http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...psf239f10c.jpg

(That was from my trip to Pennsylvania for my first vx tranny and a d15z1)

Hey guys. We'll, good to be back to my thread...

OooKayyy :p

Thank you each for the kind welcome and support.

I do plan to lower the vehicle, but nothing extreme, and with traditional camber. I try to be conscious of drive-ability when planning suspension height. I need to keep a healthy distance of space to allot for wheel travel, as well as guard the oil pan and sub-frame from any damage during daily commutes. I’ll likely look on CL to purchase used, yet quality, lowering springs that allow use of the OEM shocks, and do not compromise ride comfort (that much). My goal would be a 2 to 2.5 “finger gap” at all corners. I can bridge the rest of the floor gap with custom side-skirts/lips, should I ever choose to build those for aero-function.

Here’s some pics of all of my past projects. They give a snapshot to my build style and history.

2006

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps88fd159f.jpg

2008

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psedd84a16.jpg

2010

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5f65aadc.jpg

2012

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6f965db1.jpg

2013 (A)

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps94553655.jpg

2013 (B)

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps077a175a.jpg

2014

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps13548dd1.jpg


As I stated earlier, I’m really excited about this project, as it differs from anything I’ve done previously. I love grassroots-style movements, and it’s neat to see what FE-minded enthusiasts are doing about current gas prices and leaving a lower carbon footprint on mother earth. I pose that one can have a safe and reliable car that is: (1) paid for ; (2) looks good; (3) has excellent fuel economy. It’s certainly going against the grain, but I’m happy to do so, as car payments stink, and so does trips to the gas station.

Below are the some pics and overview info. of my 1992 Civic VX, as received. My next post will then outline build plans, followed by my first set of updates.

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps492e56a9.jpg

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps92c0eee4.jpg

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps76c9d0d2.jpg

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psfc120689.jpg

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps30faad28.jpg

VEHICLE HISTORY:
CarFax reveals this one to be a Carolina-only car. A bought the car for a gentlemen in SC who did a great deal of maintenance (timing belt, battery, radiator, tranny oil changes, cleaning here/there) during his short tenure owning the vehicle. The original alternator died on my while driving the car back to NC at 12:30 in the morning on the interstate. I limped the car to a gas station and we all rode back in my wife’s Accord. The seller was very kind, he drove an hour north to where the Civic was parked, diagnosed the alternator as being the issue, fixed the car (on his own dime) and parked it at a WalMart. I picked it up that night. LIkely, appears that him washing the engine a few hours before my test drive short-circuited the alternator. Cool of him to fix it, even though there was no way of proving this is what caused the issue.

EXTERIOR/CHASSIS:
The underside is very clean/rust-free. The “Milano Pink” paint is a bit past it’s glory days, but I do believe/hope that the troubled spots are salvageable with some cut/polish work. A pinstripe removal tool will also do wonders for the aesthetics.

INTERIOR:
The interior is black/gray, which is rare and desirable choice amongst Honda enthusiasts. An armrest is also present, which I understand was a dealer option/upgrade. Smoke-free vehicle history. Restoration work needed on the door cards and the drivers seat cover. Upgrades are needed in the audio department, in general.

MECHANICAL/DRIVETRAIN:
Mechanically, I’d say I inherited the car at....hmmm...7.5 out of 10. I was hoping it would be in a bit better condition, but things certainly could have been worse. Car felt a bit under-powered on the way home, even despite the economy engineering of the VX. Tires are very new, Michelin Green X LRR. Clutch feels a little worn, slow to engage. Also, the shifter feels...crunchy. Power is good. A few hiccups in the fuel delivery, at times, only happens when in low RPMS. Grounding cables need replacement/upgrading.

It looks wonderful to me for a 22 year old car! And it's good he did the timing belt that's a 150$ job minimum if you do the work yourself. If not, it's close to 500. Anyway, I can't wait to see more progress on this!

Absolutely LOVE the wagovan! Nice cars!

A welcome to the OG VX! Hahaha. I'm looking forward to pics of your "new" EG soon. So cool to see the experienced old racer-honda guys coming into the realm of eco-modding these same cars. The car is a great base for ecomodding, just like it was for 1990s racing around. You should have a good knowledge base. Looking forward to your contributions around here.

--------------

Thanks guys. Yes, I was fortunate to have found this VX in such great condition. The wagovan was my a beast of a project. Everything was tough on that one, but it was certainly a cool car once finished.

Def funny to see the F&F generation coming around full circle with the Eco mods. Basically, we are getting older and appreciate FE. Plus, IMHO, things are getting out of hand with the Honda scene. Dudes obsessing over bolt kits for the engine. Mil-spec firewall connections for tucked harnesses. Weird stuff. You used to could "hang" with the rest of the top by spending circa $3K on a build/parts and some good ol' fashion elbow grease. Now, that's just enough $$ to get you in-line with the ricers down at the local Sonic. Thanks to companies like Hybrid Racing, Chase Bays, and Bolt Boys, show-quality Honda builds take three times as long to complete and are $15K affairs once all the dust settles. Then your left with a....Honda. So, you have to part-out the build to make your money back (since no one wants to pay $15K for a used Honda, no matter how nice/"perfect" it is).

I'm excited to begin what I think is the "new frontier" for Honda-heads. Clean built Eco cars. We'll, it's really not new for Honda, as I think being eco-minded is what put them on the map in the first place :thumbup:

Here's some conceptual sketches I put together for the aesthetics. Should be a fun build!

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5ce2476b.jpg

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps00fbbab5.jpg

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7e097924.jpg

Yup. That's the ticket. Underbody tray?

I have always wished I had enough experience/knowledge to make fiberglass body panels... I'd replace the hood and trunk/hatch.

Looks great OG, I look forward to your build tread.

You have a beautiful vision for that car. I'm definitely interested. That's More like what those crz's should look like, in my opinion.a little more "swoopy" with the sexy lines.

Sweet!

Man, so much support here. I really appreciate it!

I’ll be back on my next post with some actual progress. Just haven’t had time to post up this weeks pics/progress.

For now, here’s an overview of my plans for this build. I’m sure they will evolve somewhat as my knowledge base in eco-tuning increases...I know it’s a long/laborious list to read through, but this list is for my own records/planning as well, so please bear with me.

PLANS FOR THE BUILD:

Exterior
- Complete cleaning of all grease/dirt (including door/hatch jambs, engine bay, and wheel wells)
- Clean wheel-wells and spray with fresh black paint. Clean and paint calipers silver. Clean backside/inner part of OEM wheels. Paint OEM drums black.
- Attempt to restore original OEM Milano Red paint w/ cutting & buffing work.
- ABS grill block; small opening on left side (with black gutter-guard mesh) for flow to radiator
- ABS flush-mount fog light covers
- ABS extended front lip (fabricated to attach to, and lower, profile of existing OEM VX lip)
- ABS extended side skirts (fabricated to attach to, and lower, profile of existing OEM side skirts)
- OEM mirror delete on RH; DIY fiber-glass delete from old mirror on LH
- convex interior-mounted side mirrors; suction-mounted to windshield on both sides of vehicle
- upgraded rear view mirror (larger convex, or Wink)
- JDM-style thin side moldings
- JDM Stanley side-marker lights on fenders
- SiR-style clear corner lights w/ 1157NA bulbs
- OEM headlights with H4 LED bulb conversion
- Nokya Hyper Yellow H3 fog bulbs
- DIY windshield wiper air deflector (made of ABS, fiberglassed onto wiper cowl)
- OEM antenna delete panel
- Rear wheel skirts with hidden-type cabinet hinge incorporated. Use of red-anodized dress washers and allen-key flush bolts to attach (clean look).
- All black trim pieces and body lips/moldings restored to “like new” appearance with Duplicolor Bumper Paint and/or Forever Black die.
- Bosch Icon wiper blades
- Front wheel deflectors valance connected to extended front lip
- Metal Kammback spoiler fabricated to mount to existing OEM wing and hatch shock hole locations. Painted to match body.
- Some sort of rear decal or sign added to inform that I’m a hypermiler, or that I’m currently hypermiling. May incorporate some amber lights into this as well.
- Corrugated plastic added to entire under-carraige
- Rear under-carraige, chassis, and exhaust all painted with black paint for rust protection and good looks.
- Rear exit-splitter added to rear bumper
- Light (20%) tint applied to hatch and rear windows.
- Deep Scrub applied to all exterior windows
- Design and install custom Civic VX reproduced decal with addition of “With Lean Burn Technology” below; inc. green leaves into design.

INTERIOR
- Install Alarm System
- Remove front seats and center console.
- Complete cleaning of all dirt/dust/etc; wash and clean windows
- Clean and vacuum carpets and mats
- Swap passenger seat to driver’s side (if possible); disassemble and take drivers upper-seat to upholstery shop for repair and restoration. Swap back seats when drivers seat is repaired.
- Remove door cards. Troubleshoot and repair internal issue on LH side causing slow cranking for window. Grease and clean all window tracks.
- Troubleshoot speaker issue on front two (main and tweeters) speakers; check connections
- Remove and clean cloth panels on door cards and arm rest. Let dry. Fiberglass re-inforce cracked arm rest lid. Re-install/Glue fabric.
- Repair tweeter mounts on both sides.
- Install iPod goose-mount on passenger side seat bolt.
- Steering column single gauge mount w/ vacuum gauge installed.
- Find/purchase used MPGuino for VX, create custom fiberglass mount and fiberglass into existing steering column pod gauge plastic piece, on side adjacent to vacuum gauge.
- Install “Lean Burn” green LED in-between vacuum gauge and MPGuino
- Paint “5” from shift knob with green paint to match Eco theme in cluster.
- Complete amber conversion to climate control and all applicable interior buttons
- LED bulb conversion for dome light.
- Upgrade head-unit to an amber-lit model, with SD/USB/Aux connections, SiriusXM, Pandora, and Bluetooth hands-free audio & calling
- Install traditional radio antenna and XM antenna on top of windshield
- Mount custom “A/C” system from bolts that hold sun visor. (Basically, a cigarette lighter-powered mini-fan, with a small siphon pump to mist water through fan. Very high tech!)

MECHANICAL
- Replace Fuel Filter
- Remove intake manifiold; Clean: TB, IACV, FIV, EGR and EGR ports; install new PCV valve
- While intake removed, replaced coolant o-rings for coolant pipe on back of block.
- Flush coolant system, check and ensure thermostat is operating properly. Check all hoses for cracks.
- Brush paint bare spots on valve cover with wrinkle black paint.
- Install o-ring for Dizzy cap
- Install NGK spark plug wires and correct “4” heat-model NGK plugs
- Check compression (again) to see if any gains have happened from running better oil and Engine Restorer for a couple thousand miles
- Troubleshoot and repair RH washer spray nozzle, not spraying currently.
- Replace broken washer line clip with proper junk yard unit.
- Marvels Mystery Oil for Gas Tank
- Replace front brake pads and rotors

Wow. You don't play. I like your style! This should be a real cool build. ..

There are two approaches to handling air flow under the car for minimum drag.

One is to lower the car and adding an air dam to divert air around the sides of the car and side skirts to maintain the low pressure zone under the car. This reduces frontal area (lowers drag) and creates a low pressure zone under the car (increases downforce and also drag, since it takes energy to create the low pressure zone). This is the approach that most race cars use since it increases downforce. Many ecomodders also do this since it is easy to implement.

The other approach is to reshape the nose to lower the stagnation point at the front of the car to divert most of the air over and around the sides of the car. This is combined with smooth underpanelling and rear diffuser to provide a smooth straight path for the remaining air flowing under the car, and a mix of wheel spats, double side skirts, and wheel boattails to deflect air smoothly around the car's wheels (4 individual wheel fairings or 2-wheel pontoons on each side of the car). This approach has no effect on frontal area and, depending on how it is implemented, can increase or decrease downforce. This is the approach that most solar race cars use. When using this approach you need to exhaust your radiator air out of the front wheel wells or out the top of the hood to keep it from disturbing the smooth airflow under the car.

100% agreed! This is one of those threads that whenever I see an update I rush over and look, and have yet to be disappointed haha.

reply to OG
 

OG, Looks like you are well into the planning stage. My only suggestion would be to obtain and install (even temporally) a MPGuino ASAP. Not only will it confirm the worth of any aero or mechanical changes, but also give you instant feedback as you change your driving style to a Hypermiler.

Also I have found that a vacumn gauge is very important to us "lean burn guys" as it will warn you as you are about to "go out" of lean burn so you can decide if you want to make a quick adjustment to throttle position.

Here is a possible "GREEN" accent you may want to add to your valve cover. This one will be added to our 95 white VX "show car".




http://i855.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6e379fc8.jpg

Basjoos, great info. for aerodynamics. Thanks for sharing sir!

Haha, thanks bro. Sometimes I tend to over-plan. But I do enjoy it. Sad truth/confession: I've already turned nearly every bolt in this project in my head. Some of the elements didn't go so well, and I had to do them over again...I've already built the sides skirts three times already, and I'm still racking my head on the mount--thats-going-to-mount the cabinet mount to the body for the wheel skirts. It's been engineered 3 different ways, but I think I'm settled on it now. :o

Thanks my friend. I'll try to keep fresh content coming :thumbup:

Donkey: Thanks SO much for that pic. That is awesome! I'll def. be looking for one of those VC's to do that mod. See my first update below here in a sec. I think it will flow perfect with my other planned "green mods".

Brings on a question: Did the 92 model VX covers not have the "VTEC-E" stamping? If so, what year did they start coming with the revised VC?

Update: Registration/First Maintenance/Gauge Cluster Modifactions

We'll, finally folks, after all my talk, here's some "walk".

First up was registration. I'll post a pic because of the appraised value. HA!

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps08ef75ee.jpg

Moving on...Maintenance work commenced as soon as I got the car back to the house.

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psd9e06372.jpg

I wanted to know exactly what I was "working with", so I ran a compression test. I'd like to think EricTheCarGuy, my favorite dude for Honda tutorials on YouTube, for the excellent advice on how to properly do compression testing.

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps34295222.jpg

First, I ran the tests on a cold engine ("dry" cylinders); then again with "wet" cylinders. Then, I drove the car for a couple of days with fresh oil and Engine Restorer additive. I then did the compression test once more, and achieved a bit more favorable numbers.

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psdc90d23c.jpg

Overall, certainly not stats good enough to slap your momma about. However, they are within the working limits from Honda (135 psi, I understand, is the service limit). And most importantly, they are even. So, OK, now I don't feel too bad putting some time and money into this car.

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps14d8e315.jpg

The transmission got fresh Honda MTF. However, after a week of driving with it in, things still felt "crunchy". After some research, I decided to try Penzoil Syncromesh. Man, glad I did! Transmission is shifting much better now. I highly recommend it vs. the Honda stuff. The "crunch" is almost gone entirely. The syncros are worn, but I'm hoping that using this stuff in regular intervals will help prevent a tranny re-build....or at least, drastically delay it.

Lastly for this first update, I did some research into the dash lighting. My cluster was rather dull, even with the illumination knob turned all the way up. I did an LED swap on my truck and liked the brightness of it, but do have some "hot spots" on the truck cluster. After some research, I found and decided to follow this awesome DIY linked below from a Honda-Tech user; amber halogen bulb swap. I'll be following his council for the climate control and remainder of the dash buttons + clock as well.

My EG speedo cluster & climate control in amber - done right - Honda-Tech

And so, off I set removing the cluster and setting up for the bulb swap.

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2848eee1.jpg

But while I was in there, I decided to do some custom paint work as well. Time to break out an old friend for my model car days...

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psc3b2fc99.jpg

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6b22f562.jpg

All sealed up and drying post-paint.

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psf74cdbd7.jpg

Used this stuff. Dries clear. Great stuff. Called "Canopy Glue". Used to glue plastic canopy's on model airplanes.

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psd8928487.jpg

V.1 all done and in the car the next day:

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6a1717f4.jpg

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psf3f8d6b3.jpg

Night-time pic w/ the amber effect (whole dash will be this color soon)

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psafc4a2bf.jpg

Later that evening, I had another idea/addition to add. Woke up the next day and added it. SO glad that I did. Feel like it really makes the cluster and ties everything together with the "green" mods for the dash. Added a "sweet spot" of green.

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psf9001980.jpg

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3fa162c6.jpg

Here's the "sweet spot" in action, right near the area I shoot to lean burn within while highway cruising.

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9457d7ae.jpg

That's it for now. More to come.

Thanks for eco-tuning in!

absolutely first class!!!

Too bad you guys don't have an actual "lean burn indicator" like mine, but I run a JDM ecu - 37820-p2j-j62 it's amazing to know for sure you're in lean burn for real. check my "happy light" lean burn indicator:
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...ps919654ca.jpg

that way you know for sure, even when your foot feels a little heavy:
http://i1291.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3059fcc2.jpg

on the p2j's, the lean burn indicator comes from pin a30 (which most pinouts call unused), and it's a switched ground. I bring ignition switched 12v+ to the other side of the bulb.

one downside to this setup is NO OBD ANYTHING! I have to use the jumper under the passenger kick-panel and look up codes when necessary, but I do have my dual vtec motor and lean burn ( best of both worlds )! I can lean burn in 12v and 16v mode ( I'm pretty sure your d15z1 will as well with correct ecu and conditions), but I also have the "wild cam" mode, almost B-series type vtec action but it starts at about 5000 rpm to redline (I've had it to 7800 without fuel cutoff) Which would have most ecomodders shaking their heads!!

If you want to go for a quick ride, I can show you:
Lean burn - YouTube

OG, sorry, I forgot the 92 VX valve cover don't have the V-TEC E lettering. Not sure which years had it, but this cover is from our 94VX

Update: No-Start Issue + Complete Intake Manifold + Heater Hose Overhaul

I hope everyone’s well. I’ve been away for a bit, due to a crashed HD on our Mac. I went out to start my car this past Wed morning (the morning after the Mac crashed) and the car would not turn over. When the key was turned to position III, lights on the dash came on, but no sounds, no action, nothing, nada... I was def scratching my head at that point. After much troubleshooting (battery, fuses, connections, etc...) I finally made a call to just remove the starter and take it to get it tested. The starter was the original OEM unit, and tested "fail" at Autozone. Seemed simple enough to just replace the starter at that point.

Since I missed work that day due to the issue, while I was removing the starter, I pretty much just decided to "go to town" on the car, moving forward with all the remaining mechanical/engine work I had planned to (eventually) do, but wasn't sure when I would have the time to get around to it. A list below outlines the work performed over the past week:

- Replaced gaskets for: Intake Manifold, EGR, Throttle Body, VTEC solenoid, Thermostat, IACV
- Replaced all heater hoses (around 9 total; including radiator and lines running to/from oil filter housing)
- Replaced thermostat
- Replaced starter (w/ lifetime warranty unit from Autozone)
- Coolant system drain and fill
- Tooth-brush cleaned engine block and engine bay (Dollar General oven cleaner worked great for removing the stuck-on grease from the block!)
- Removed decals from battery to clean up look
- Painted exhaust manifold with VHT Flame Proof “Aluminum” Paint
- Painted exhaust mani. heat shield + bumper bracket w/ VHT Blk Brake Caliper Paint (hi-heat).

After all the gasket and fitted-hose chasing-down and installing was completed, I went to fire up the engine. No start...still. No sound upon turning key, nothing...

That was on Saturday evening. By now I was nearly out of ideas. So, I went back to my good old friend, the internet. I found out that there is a SECOND rubber stopper pad on the clutch pedal assembly that can and does go bad. I had previously checked the first (lower; in plain view) stopper pad location, which looked like it was replaced in recent times with the (revised) neoprone pad. Fans of older Honda’s know that these “stopper pads” on the brake and clutch pedals go bad over time, causing all sorts of annoying electrical havic. However, I’ve never had the top (hidden) pad go bad on me before. Apparently when this (fun to get to go) lil’ guy goes to stopper-pad-heaven, the car won’t start, as the pad is designed to sit on the end of a lever that touches and closes the switch circuit that allows power to the starter when the clutch pedal is pressed. No pad, no start. Of course, I came to this internet epiphany on a Saturday evening, and all my local Honda dealers were closed on both Sunday and Monday for the holiday. Thankfully, after several parts store calls, my local Advanced Auto was able to source a Dorman replacement part (#74015) from their Gastonia wearhouse, and I had the part to install on the VX yesterday afternoon. To install the pad, I ended up (lightly) duct taping it to the end of a long flat head screwdriver. I removed the driver’s seat for clearance/comfort, and used a large flood flash light to get some visibility up under the dash. I then halfway duct taped the little pad to a long flat head screwdriver, and use the screwdriver to get the pad in place and leverage it into the mounting hole. It was...fun.

After all that, car started up just fine. Acceleration feels good. I'm getting up tomorrow morning to complete the following:

- Install proper (4 heat range plugs)
- Install new fuel filter
- Begin removing interior trim

I'll come back tomorrow with another post. Late and time for bed.

For now, here's some pics from the past week:

"Before" pic of the engine bay before cleaning:

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psa254a4d7.jpg

The tools for the job :thumbup: (Dollar General Oven Cleaner not pictured)

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psb05019ae.jpg

Check out that filthy block!

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psd73a32e7.jpg

Beat up hoses:

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5d2620a0.jpg

Dirty parts awaiting cleaning:

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps30098d69.jpg

Parts that had been cleaned, awaiting install. Headlights were cleaned inside/out:

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7669700a.jpg

My method for staying organized during tear-down sessions:

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...pse1b0128b.jpg

92-95 Civics have one of the best looking Honda bumpers ever, IMHO:

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9ab5571d.jpg

Some parts getting fresh paint:

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps63095de4.jpg

My lil' buddy (pic not mine; from internets) :

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2c72fa40.jpg

(continued next post)...

To wrap up this post, here's some "after" pictures of the engine bay. Not show-ready yet, but working in that direction...

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps10c25793.jpg

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9c7f6b38.jpg

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps37ad798f.jpg

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1b668f03.jpg

...and an artsy-fartsy final exterior shot before the overhaul on the exterior begins.

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6781eadf.jpg

That's it for now. More to come.

Thanks for eco-tuning in!

That's a very fine looking VX. And thanks for all the pics and deets.

Thanks so much my friend. I’m trying to get her there...

I’ve spent, probably, 3 times as much time in parts acquirement as I have spent actually wrenching on this VX. Turns out that many of the VX gaskets/manifolds/etc... are all differently shaped than their CX/DX counterparts. Makes for fun hunting!

In another hunting effort, I went to PullaPart early this morning. When I was there three weeks ago, I saw a passenger-side mirror delete on a Civic. I wish I had grabbed the delete kit then, as the Civic was no longer there this morning when I arrived. So, looks like I’ll be modding both the right and left side mirror-deletes.

Here’s a list of recent parts ordered/obtained of late:

“Performance:”
- AutoMeter Vacuum Gauge (w/ eco-minded gauge face/readings)
- Dual pod A-pillar gauge mount
- Home-made MPGuino from Ecomodder user

Exterior:
- H4 CREE LED (30W) Hi/Low Headlight Conversion kit
- Nokya Hyper Yellow H3 fog light bulbs
- OEM Stanley EG sidemarkers
- SiR (replica) corner lights; w/ Amber 1156 bulbs
- OEM Honda radio antenna delete panel
- For a “special modification” for rear: (2) magnetic dealer plate tag holders; sheet metal; (2) Led sequential flashing amber arrows; (2) LED 6” light bars.
- (4) cans Duplicolor Bumper Paint; (2) cans Duplicolor Adhesion Promotor
- 6” Orbital Buffer
- 2000 grit sand-paper
- Meguire’s Glaze
- Duralast “Flex Blade” wiper blades

Interior:
- Fan; oscillating, switch-operated w/ cigarette lighter plug
- Gooseneck Ipod mount; bolts to seat bolt of passenger seat.
- (2) “Ultimate Blind Spot Mirrors” from Autozone
- 3M amber tail light repair tape (for amber dash lighting conversion)

-------------------

I’ll be busy for quite a while installing all of this stuff. I’ve got quite a few updates planned.

Next update will be exterior related.

Thanks for eco-tuning in!

OG VX you're Killin it, man! Beautiful! I can't wait to see what's up with the magnets and metal, I'm ready for your update!

I really didn't want to do the a pillar Gauge on my minion, I was going to save that one for the turbo car (I'm just starting into the motor now, don't have the car yet), but the vacuum Gauge, with your eco markings AND the mpguino in there as well? HOLY CRAP YES!

That's my motivation to buy the mpguino now. Too cool, man. My next little pile of cash will be spent on copying your sweet idea - hope you don't mind:thumbup:

Thanks,
Victor

^ Thanks much for the encouragement vrmouseyd15b. I appreciate you.

Yes, I'm anxious to get started on my "special project" as well. I'm sure you can guess what it may be. A hint: I wish I had completed it already, may have helped to avoid a near-death accident yesterday on my commute home...

Here's some pics of all of the parts that have come in over the last week. For the married men, my wife has been making a mental inventory of part arrivals each day. :o So, I'm glad that everything is finally in, sans the LED headlight kit. It should arrive "overnight from Japan" in about a week.

Here's some pics of everything, since everyone knows build threads suck without them...

Fuel Filter and proper heat-range plugs (#4 within part number, not #5)

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psc1ea9099.jpg

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps462692c3.jpg

Vision Technica SiR-replica corners; 1156NA bulbs. Seem high quality!

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7b53d311.jpg

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psddcb97be.jpg

3M Amber repair tape I found at Advanced Auto Parts (for dash lighting)

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0f1dd826.jpg

Here's the parts I'll use on the exterior & paint restoration. The first pic is a 3M pinstripe removal tool/wheel. Cost me $35 from my local NAPA 2 years back. Ouch! But: (1) I've used it on 4 cars now; (2) nothing is more hideous than a pinstripe. This little guy is worth it's weight in gold!! Great tool. Very safe on paint as well.

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psc8142917.jpg

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1b352f18.jpg

For trim pieces, this combo picture below has served me well for years. They go together like GC's and Koni's! Just degrease/dry your parts, one coat of the AP and 2-3 coats of the bumper paint. I should also note that Duplicolor makes and sells a product in a green can called "Trim Paint". However, from my own personal experience, I have found the "Bumper Paint" to serve a better purpose for all trim (bumper, plastic, and metal). It tends to lay down easier, is more archival, and (most importantly) is more "black". The trim paint starts black, but fades quickly in the sun to more of a dark charcoal. This combo ensures an "OEM like-new" look, while I've seen others use Krylon Fusion for trim pieces, which is just too glossy and ends up looking cheap, IMO. I always treat the trim pieces in my builds with this AP and BP combo, and I never touch a single ounce of Armour All, or "Back to Black" or similar greasy goo to my cars, ever. The trim pieces are always black, wash-to-wash. Now, if anything isn't easily removed for paint or is more of a rubber material (weatherstripping, etc...), I do use a product called "Forever Black". But this is a completely different product from the more common "band-aid" products available at parts stores. It's actually a black die that is permanent. Check it out on Google. Rustoleum has caught on to this product, and now offers this product, which is fairly similar, and it IS available locally. It's pretty good. I used it on my truck and the results were good. It's just a bit harder to work with than Forever Black (dries up too quick when applying, so doesn't go on as smooth; also is too runny, feels more like a water-based paint, where-is the Forever Black applies on more smooth-gliding, with the consistency of a silicone-based gel). It's a pain to have to order it and wait for it, but nothing beats Forever Black when it comes to trim gel. OK, I'll stop now. I just get so tired of seeing these band-aid fixes for trim, and I feel that trim is SO important to the aesthetics of a car, and is often not given the attention it deserves....

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3a0c72e8.jpg

I didn't picture this product on a previous post, but did want to post it, as I found this stuff to be very valuable to me. GREAT for cleaning of stuck-on/stubborn grease from the engine block. Saved me much time. Cost about $2 per can at Dollar General. Just sprayed it on the block, waited about 5 minutes, tooth brushed the applied areas, and hosed off. Now, it will leave a bit of hazing to the finish of your block, but this can be wiped off later with WD40 and a rag.

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps622b1e0e.jpg

-- (continued next post) --