Over 50 MPG in my Honda Type R
 

For the first time since getting the Honda Type R GT in 2008, I just squeaked over 50 MPG: 503.5 on the clock, full fill up of 45.36 litres (9.97 gallons) = 50.5 miles per gallon.

I've been close before in the warm weather, and this tank has had slightly longer runs so I'd expect better than previously, but it's still an achievement. Factory MPG is listed as 31. I'm sure it' a record - Type R owners aren't typically fuel saving freaks.

Just to clarify that's UK MPG. US would be 42.

Nice work! I hear the new R type is coming to the states, soon, too.

It's just come out here, moreorless a week ago.

There's no key ignition, you press a button on the key to switch the electronics on, then usual starter button - then just put the key down somewhere. Not sure if you could EOC, and I couldn't bring myself to ask the salesman, he'd have thought I was mad.

BUT, you have had them before. This is our first (Civic) R. Nice to see a sporty Honda here. Personally, I have no use for a FF unless it's the actual model, but this is Hondas first performance vehicle in the States in a long time.

Start stop button on my 2003 Megane will only turn engine off at very slow speed (maybe 3 mph) it if pressed 6 times.
But then It won't record the distance of the EOC.

42 mpg is really good for such a car.

Could you describe your usual rides ?

Use is largely recreational and I avoid peak hours at all costs. Usually, about an 8-mile journey. I EOC every descent, and estimate 30% - 35% of the time the engine is switched off. As an eco-freak I also drive slowly, though as the roads aren't busy this isn't much of an inconvenience, but do hit the occasional motorway and end up pissing people off. I rarely rev above 2500, and my car is geared annoyingly high and it's designed to rev very freely and high (red line is 8K). I engine brake a lot, try to avoid pedal braking at all costs. Even then, the brake pads seem to wear out quickly.

It sounds like you can't EOC in your Megane, which seems to have the same ignition set up as the new Type R. That's a bit of a red line for me (no pun intended) - weird as hell to be rejecting such a high performance hatchback because you can't hypermile it.

I am not rejecting the Type R.
The performance of the car just makes your sucess even more shining.

IIRC people fitting engine kill switch do so to get their speedo still working, in other words only partly turning off the car.

For me, and for most vehicles I believe, a kill switch just stops the engine and the things the engine directly powers, the vehicle continues the functions that occur while in the ON position and running.

When I said "weird as hell to reject the R" I was referring to myself, rejecting it because I probably couldn't EOC. Along with my almost certainly unique 50 MPG, I'd almost certainly be the only potential customer of the new car being put off the hottest hatchback out there on the basis of the inability to kill the engine whilst in motion.

Woah woah woah... Zany 2016 Ford Focus RS Rated At 345 Horsepower

From what I red here and there, you want to kill the engine with the ECU still working and that means it is not the same as turning the key (or hitting the OFF switch).

As it is not hat common a car for ecomodding, you are in un-charted territory :/

From my (possibly limited) understanding, we are saying the same thing.

Using a kill switch, the car is in the same condition as driving, other than the engine being on. To expand, my Mustang simply in the ON position won't react the same way as it would if I started the engine, and then it died by kill switch.

What reasoning do I have for thinking this? If I turn the key to start, my cruise control is reset to off. On my route, I use CC after getting to speed. (*)I EOC, and come to a stop, bump starting before the complete stop, so my engine is running. I continue on when the light turns, and use CC again by the set button, no activation sequence is needed.

So, say at the (*) point, I EOC, and come to a stop with the engine off. My key never leaves the ON position, but I turn it over to start it. NOW, when I go to use CC, it needs the activation process, it won't just go. This works the same for traction control, and stability control. Engine off (by kill switch) and a bump start keeps me in the same condition. If that key moves ONE BIT(as in from ON to START), I have to start over. Does that make sense?

In defense of the Mustang, this isn't some grand NASA launch system for CC. There are four buttons, two left, two right. There is ON and OFF on the left, and SOMETHING and SET SPEED on the right. So if I used the key, I would have to hit ON again for it to let me SET it, while a bump start after the kill switch simply let's me hit SET to set the CC.

I don't think the point of the car matters much in regards to how the ECU understands things, or reacts. Be it my Mustang or one of the Insights, going from ON to START only rationally applies to the car stopped to getting ready to drive, while the ECU being in ready to drive mode (engine was cranked and started since last key movement) thinks it is in a driving situation.

The only way I understand to test this is for someone have two cars, one with engine started, then turned off, and then one started and the engine killed by kill switch. Then an F150 drives into each, same speed, and angle. If I had to bet which one would still have safety features, I'd bet the one that still thinks it is driving.

Yes, it is what I believe.
Still, finding the right way to kill the engine requires to make sure you are using a feature put in the ECU by the maker.
I am not too sure this is common knowledge.

What method do you suggest? The only I have found that [seems to] makes sense is the injectors, or fuel pump.