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Old 05-15-2011, 10:54 PM   #4741 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camaro View Post
I'll post my code in the next few days, and I'm designing a PCB in Eagle for a small plug in board. I've never been a fan of AVR's. They're just more of a pain to program, but I understand why Paul choose it.
I program mine with 4 resistors and a parallel port using PonyProg, stealing power from USB, I guess it is harder than a PIC, but not that much harder.

Oops, unless you meant to write code for, brain jam on my part.


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Old 05-16-2011, 03:39 AM   #4742 (permalink)
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Nice work indeed! First time i drove at 24v i crashed into a tree. Ahhh the fond memories ...........
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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
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Old 05-16-2011, 01:03 PM   #4743 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by harlequin2 View Post
No, its inductive ie two coils on a bobbin with a bit of ferrite. Normally one coil goes in each ac leg. It is actually a transformer with a 1:1 turns ratio with a very high voltage isolation capability.
Ahhh, that's much different.

The corrected URL works, so I now see the part. I don't see an isolation rating or break-down voltage (it's not a primary parameter for the intended use), but it's likely good enough.

That's a smart way to get a transformer. Unlike most other common parts, transformers and larger inductors are frequently custom made. The few stocked parts are expensive and may not be available the next purchase. That's a minor problem when you want to build a prototype. It's much bigger problem when you want to design something that other people can build one copy of.

One of the appeals of the LNK306 chip I mentioned earlier is that it uses only a simple standard inductor for a non-isolated supply. Most other power conversion products have reference designs that use custom designed transformers with sense taps or specific transfer characteristics. Again "non-isolated", so it's getting its power from the traction voltage -- it's not solving the same problem.
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Old 05-16-2011, 01:58 PM   #4744 (permalink)
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Time for my build

Hi guys,

I have been lurking around for a while now and it is time for me to build a controller as well. First off, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experiences.

Since the weather is getting better, it is time to replace the fried controller in my EV. (was a 550 amp Curtis) I would like to build a 144 VDC IGBT based controller of at least 550 Amps. It appears that the way to go is to get a control board from Paul, and driver from Mr. mrbigh and a power section from ???. If anyone can help with specifics that would be great. I am especially drawn towards making a design similar to the bike controller that jackbauer recently has been posting. The less components to assemble, the better i think.
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Old 05-17-2011, 05:10 PM   #4745 (permalink)
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Nice work pnikolaj! I think you should leave the fuel clip to remind you that you have no more tank!

I tested a beta version of the 1000amp controller today....great work Paul, it worked flawlessly!
My commute to work is about 12 miles through town and 14 if you take the highway. After the through town commute at 45mph or so the controller was ice cold. I took it easy as suggested by Paul and kept it under 400 motor amps. I'm going to take the highway home and maybe get some more video .

What I like so far:
Throttle as smooth as melted butter
Amazingly steady and direct current-throttle relationship
Quieter than a dead mouse
Shiny!

P.S....pardon the mess under my hood...I have plans to clean it up (and my garage, and my room )


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Old 05-17-2011, 06:00 PM   #4746 (permalink)
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Oh man oh man oh man. That was scary!!!!! Every solder joint flashes before my eyes. What a great beta tester though! Man! I know how to pick them! Well, I know how to say yes when someone says they want to. hahaha. Seriously beautiful videos! This is the aluminum heat spreader controller too, if I'm not mistaken. If it's staying cool enough, then that's wonderful news!
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Old 05-17-2011, 07:04 PM   #4747 (permalink)
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Thanks to all for the kind words and encouragement. @ Louman, if the weather up here in Michigan keeps staying cold I just may come down and help. Although I still have a few vibrations that I need to work out myself.
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Old 05-18-2011, 12:02 AM   #4748 (permalink)
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Luke's controller blew up! Fortunately he is OK. It sounded like Ben's and Joe's situation. At least one mosfet was failed shorted, and when the contactor closed, the car tires spun out and lurched forward. I'm sending him the extra one, and he's going to send that one here, and we'll figure out what went wrong.
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Old 05-18-2011, 08:44 AM   #4749 (permalink)
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All gas cars have to start in park or neutral. EV's should be the same.

I always make sure my car is in neutral before turning it on. Should something really crazy happen, the car isn't going anywhere, and can still be turned off by at least two other means.
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Old 05-18-2011, 09:51 AM   #4750 (permalink)
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Yea....I try to always start the car in neutral as well, I'm pretty religious about that, for some reason I just didn't this time....probably should have an interlock.
Luckily I developed some pretty quick reflexes in the days of my ev1-b controller when failing on was pretty much the norm...opened the main contactor, pulled the e-brake, and hit the e-stop all in what I'm pretty sure was less than half a second.
In retrospect I'm actually kind of glad the car was in gear when the failure occurred...I'm pretty sure a full 160+ volts direct to a 36v rated motor with no load would have grenaded it almost instantly.

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