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-   -   Piwoslaw's Peugeot 106 thread (https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/piwoslaws-peugeot-106-thread-30598.html)

Piwoslaw 11-30-2014 04:55 PM

Piwoslaw's Peugeot 106 thread
 
Hi all,

It's been 6 months since I last logged on (work and family taking ~26 hours of each day, the rest being sleep), during which P Jr started preschool and Mrs P started to get ready to return to work. This means that she is driving a lot:( As Svietlana is great for long distance trips, but too big and heavy for errands and urban traffic, Mrs P and I heavy-heartedly decided to acquire a second car. Theodor is a 2001 Peugeot 106, 3-door, 1.1 liter 44kW petrol-engined metrorocket;) It took me a while to find a version with no extras (the hardest was to find one without power steering) - the main luxuries are 2x airbags and a Radio/CD which the previous owner installed many years ago.

The car is very light, has great acceleration when needed, as a gasser can be EOC'ed more often than a turbodiesel, and has potential for aeromodding. The battery is new (last year), as are all the brakes and rear bearings. There is also an OBDII socket, so I can use the ScanGauge.

Among the downsides (so far): The car was very loud when driving 400km home after buying it. I blamed it on the bad aero (mirrors and A-pillars), but my mechanic was surprised I even made it home, judging from the state of the clutch bearing. Once he replaced the clutch I could finally hear the engine. Maybe not the quietest purr, but it shouldn't wake the neighbors more than 3 houses away. The outer layer of the muffler has perforations from rust, and my ScanGauge keeps showing a catalyst problem (which may or may not be the reason for the check engine light always being on). The check airbag light goes on and off randomly, this may be bad wiring. In fact, P106's are known for their problems with wiring, I've noticed that the OBD socket doesn't always work, nor does the speaker in the driver's door.
Unfortunately the speedo and odometer do not work if the engine is off, though this may only be the case when it is off by the ignition. As this is Mrs P's ride, pimping it with an engine kill button may not get approval.

Another bummer is the total lack of insulation in the engine compartment - no engine tray was made for this model, so it is wide open from the bottom and the wheelwells. When I got a chance to see the underside I wanted to insulate the oilpan, but there was 13 years of mud caked on it, and not enough time to clean it. I may have access to a garage this weekend, but may not have enough time to try again. I also want to insulate the underside of the hood/bonnet, hopefully will before the end of winter. I've partially blocked the lower grille, so I have that going for me;)

A smaller downside are the new (front: 1 year old, rear: 2 years old) tires. Most of you may envy 165/70R13's, but when looking for a new car I was hoping that the tires would need to be replaced, so that I could fit 155/80R13's. But I have what I have and I keep that at max sidewall hoping they go bald soon;)

As Theodor will be used by Mrs P to drive Jr to preschool, and soon also to drive to work, then we cannot expect great milage and 1000+-kilometer tanks. Even with the ecodriving skills that Mrs P got from me, frequent very short trips and cold starts are FE killers:(
The first tank (4.7l/100km, 50.1 mpg) is not a good base, as half of it was smooth sailing home from buying the car. The third tank is much worse (6.1 l/100km, 38.8 mpg) because of very short trips in freezing temperatures.

Piwoslaw 11-30-2014 04:57 PM

I had the ScanGauge hooked up and today was one of the few when the OBD socket worked, so I could keep an eye on how fast the engine warms up: It was -7°C this morning, and the engine warmed up relatively quickly to about 38-39°C, after that it was VERY slow, barely inching up degree by degree. I admit that we needed cabin heat, but suddenly switching the heat on did not make the coolant temp plumet (like in Svietlana's larger turbodiesel). By the end of our 50-60 minute trip across town the coolant temp only got to 73°C. Like I mentioned in the intro, the engine bay is wide open and uninsulated, only a partial block on the lower grille.

I know that the engine can get hotter, the hood is usually hot in warmer weather and I've heard the fan on a few occasions, so can I assume such low engine temperatures today where because of the cold weather, not because of a faulty thermostat for example?

Hypermiler1995 11-30-2014 05:27 PM

I wish the US had tiny 3cyl ecocars like that, the mits. mirage is the best we have had since the metro, and even with it the 1.0 3cyl is not sold here, Americans think a car needs more power in order to rush to the stoplight quicker, :mad: really, they can't handle less than 100hp.

Piwoslaw 12-05-2014 04:07 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Here is how I partially blocked the lower grille:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1417812420
Just a piece of plastic tucked under the license plate, covering the open part of the grille.
It open on the sides, so that the fan can suck in air, should the engine get too warm:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1417812420

Today I got access to a garage, so I got under the car, cleaned the oil pan, and put a 3mm layer of foam insulation on it. Hopefully this will prevent some heat loss, as the oil pan is dangling in the airstream with no belly pan.

Daox 12-05-2014 04:22 PM

I'd definitely look at replacing the thermostat. No heat in winter isn't fun or efficient.

Piwoslaw 12-07-2014 04:16 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Maybe it's not the thermostat, but only the engine bay being open in the front, bottom and sides, together with the cold temperatures. Then again, I'll try to check if the radiator is warm before the coolant temperatures reach 60-70°C. If it is, then what's next is a no-brainer.

My mechanic (aka brother-in-law), who was always sceptical about aero- an ecomods, recently offered to check if he find an engine tray for me, but he couldn't find any info on it, which confirms that none were ever produced for the P106:(

Yesterday I (hopefully) fixed up the wiring in the OBD socket, so I shouldn't have problems with the ScanGauge.

Today I blocked half of the upper grille, and also insulated the underside of the hood with alu-coated foam (10mm thick):
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1417984489

The last mod is a WAI. Normally the intake air comes from just above th radiator. I disconnected the last segment so that the air now comes from behind the rad, just above the exhaust manifold.

I then had a small drive (with the family to the doctor) of about 7-8km, then back after ~15 minutes. The engine got to 78°C before returning home, but the outdoor temp was around 0°C, so relatively warm. Also, the intake air temperature was 20°C above ambient, compared to only 5°C over ambient last time I drove, not sure if this is only from the WAI and blocked grille.

Sjoegerd 12-08-2014 03:45 AM

Great idea to cover the underside of the bonnet. Maybe something for my 106!

Joggernot 12-08-2014 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Piwoslaw (Post 458684)
...Today I blocked half of the upper grille, and also insulated the underside of the hood with alu-coated foam (10mm thick):

I have never figured out how to make this installation permanent. Tape doesn't hold. Spray glue didn't work. I didn't want to use screws. How did you get such a nice installation?

Piwoslaw 12-08-2014 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joggernot (Post 458789)
I have never figured out how to make this installation permanent. Tape doesn't hold. Spray glue didn't work. I didn't want to use screws. How did you get such a nice installation?

This is foam you can find in car-audio shops - the exact make/model is GMS-011a 10mm. It has aluminum coating on one side and self-adhesive on the other. The hard part was cleaning the underside of the hood;)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sjoegerd (Post 458767)
Great idea to cover the underside of the bonnet. Maybe something for my 106!

Have you been monitoring your engine temperature?
Go ahead and try it. I paid the equivalent of 25-30€ for a piece 100x130cm, of which I needed 70x130cm, so I still have some scraps to insulate the firewall or side panels.

I doubt that this will dramatically raise the engine's operating temp, but it should keep the heat in longer when the car is parked, so the engine will be warmer after 1-3 hours.

Insulation also makes using engine preheating worth while. I've checked that DEFA doesn't make a block heater for this engine. I'm still searching for another option, as this car will be used almost daily.

Sjoegerd 12-08-2014 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Piwoslaw (Post 458844)
This is foam you can find in car-audio shops - the exact make/model is GMS-011a 10mm. It has aluminum coating on one side and self-adhesive on the other. The hard part was cleaning the underside of the hood;)


Have you been monitoring your engine temperature?
Go ahead and try it. I paid the equivalent of 25-30€ for a piece 100x130cm, of which I needed 70x130cm, so I still have some scraps to insulate the firewall or side panels.

I doubt that this will dramatically raise the engine's operating temp, but it should keep the heat in longer when the car is parked, so the engine will be warmer after 1-3 hours.
an easy
Insulation also makes using engine preheating worth while. I've checked that DEFA doesn't make a block heater for this engine. I'm still searching for another option, as this car will be used almost daily.

I don't monitor the temperature. There is no temperature gauge in my 106. I have one of the most basic types. I am still thinking of and cheap way to monitor the temperature.


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