Pre-modded: 1949 Ford Freighter Pick Up
 

I've been toying with the idea of a 50's pick up for a while. I really was looking at a 55-59 GMC, but it's not like Australia is swimming with these trucks.

So here's my new (using that term loosely) pick up, an Australian Built 1949 Ford Freighter. I assume built CKD from the US Ford F1. The main difference is the taller and wider bed, and of course, it's right hand drive, I was pretty keen on staying away from left hand drives as I am hoping this will be a semi daily driver.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1467591865
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1467591865
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1467591865
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1467591865

The truck still has the original Flat head V8 and four speed crash box. Drives reasonably well for what it is, but would be very scary to drive daily in traffic. The gearing is super low, the engine is screaming in top at 40mph, even though the PO fitted some oversize rear tyres. Will definitely have to swap out the rear end ratio...

It already came Ecomodded from the factory. Obviously no A/C or power windows, but also no seat belts, no sound proofing, no PS, no power brakes, only a single windscreen wiper (the other was optional!) etc. This truck has no external mirrors, not sure if that's because they're missing or if they weren't required on commercials back then.

A quick internet search shows I should expect 10mpg stock, so there should be some room for improvement :eek:

As it stands, this thing is nearly undrivable on modern roads. At 6' tall I can barely operate the pedals, and certainly not safely. The lack of PS means very slow cornering, limited by how fast I can turn the wheel while bracing myself so as not to slide across on to the passenger seat.

Since the current electrics are 6v, I figure, why not switch to 24v instead of 12, that would be a bit of an efficiency gain.

I have no idea what direction this will take, considering how light it is (3300lbs with a cast iron V8), it could be repowered with something as light and simple as a Ford 3cyl Ecoboost and six speed it would be fast enough (more power and torque with less weight than stock) and economical for a daily but I'd never be able to tell anyone what's under the hood. The Flattie could be souped up and converted to run on LPG (this would also fix the fuel tank in the cabin issue), or just the usual LSx swap. Also thinking of using an alloy Buick/ Rover 3.5 V8, they're commonly converted to LPG and weigh ~200lbs less than the Flattie.

I used to have a Ford I6 on LPG and the best thing about it was the immediate engine starts, some times I'd just accidentally bump the starter and she'd already be up and running. Faster than my factory fitted stop/ start system for sure, would be great for city use.

Oh, and it's going to replace my Prius, Kangoo and Skyline - big shoes to fill. It needs to be as economical, useful and fast as those three (in that order Lol).

I fell in love with F-1 pickups when I was a teenager. I have been busy with life and have never built one. But they are still my favorite, I think you have chosen well!

Yeah, what drew me to it in part is the front end which actually looks more aerodynamic than any truck Detroit made for the next 50 years!

The curve radii' are good and the whole front end is quite curved in plan view (like modern Euro vans with 0.31-0.33Cd's). The cab roof radius is also good. I quite like the idea of doing a vintage looking camper shell based on the teardrop camper craze. Rear wheel skirts are of course period correct :thumbup: Will be interesting to coast down test.

Really confusing myself on what to do with it.

My ultimate goal was to buy an Art Morrison (etc) chassis, Vette suspension and gearbox and swap the body, keeping it looking original/ going rat rod but having a sports car underneath :D I think that set up could top 30mpg too.

Problem with that is then why start with an original truck?

The alternative is to keep the Flathead (which does kind of make the truck), the sensible power limit for one is ~140hp, which would do me OK. I've found some evidence on the forums that a Flattie can be run on LPG so that's looking like the first major mod. Accounting for the lower BTU's in LPG, it works out to be 30c/ litre cheaper but mainly interested in it for it's low toxicity burn (that V8 up front stinks out the cab at the moment), no doubt it needs some gaskets though. The LPG tank will go behind the rear axle so help weight distribution.

Any input to running LPG/ Propane on this engine is welcome.

I personally would think about a 4.0 I6 Jeep conversion including the 4x4. Then again I am in the 100% stock or anything goes camp. If you are going to change a few things, then do whatever you want at that point. I also bet a Cummins 4bt swap would be pretty awesome. That is a beautiful truck no matter what you do.

I've got my 4.0 TJ for that though, 20K miles from new :D I did always want to turn it into a pick up with the AEV Brute kit though. The Jeep 4.0 isn't that much more sophisticated than the Flattie, and just as heavy :( At least I can get alloy heads for the Flattie.

Swapping to a later model frame is a bit complicated here as you need to bring the old body up to the standards of the year for the donor frame.

I'm meeting up with some rodders I know at the weekend so I'll hopefully get some pointers.

Is there any way you can install the three-cylinder engine, but bolt the old valve cover on top? :)

AEV is right here in my town, It's fun seeing some of their creations driving around town before the show up at SEMA. One of their technicians lived on my mail route and had one of those $100,000 6.4 Hemi Wranglers there often.

Sidevalve engines don't normally have valve covers, I'd have to mount up a pair of dummy heads to it :eek:


I did about 120km, mostly country roads, cruising on 70km/h, that's about as fast as she wants to go and about as fast as I want to go too. Did some light city miles just using DWL and some neutral coasting. Towards the end I was confident enough to do a few EOC's :thumbup:

Going by the fuel gauge, I'm getting around 15L/100km (coincidentally 15MPG too). Which is pretty reasonable, all things considered. Although I've been keeping speeds low, the revs sure aren't. She turns around 3000rpm at ~40mph (keeping in mind the ~4500 redline) :eek:

I even did a bit of work with her too.

I love the original F-1. It is absolutely a creature of its time.

If you want to keep the original mill, you can wrestle a little extra power and efficiency out of that engine with some higher compression pistons. The originals will be pretty soft at about 6.0-6.5:1 CR, so the ignition event is more of a "poof" than a "pop." You can find domed pistons that run in a stock block under stock heads that will bring that up to as much as 8.0:1. Pump gas will run with no problem in that.

Overhead valve heads are not that hard to find either, but obviously that will bring in some replumbing on the exhaust and intake. And if you go that route, you could seriously modernize by converting to EFI at that point.

If you don't want to keep that flattie, post that rascal on Craigslist and hope like hell your phone doesn't catch fire from all the interest. There are avid old-school rodders who would absolutely love to get their mitts on an original flathead.

Repowering with a 2.3 Lima engine keeps it all Ford (if that's important to you, I know there are Aussies who will come to blows over the GM vs. Ford debate), keeps the power comparable to what's already aboard, and has lots of room for further development. The 2.3 Lima made over 170hp in the Mustang SVO with no mods in the bottom end - nice! And it makes decent torque for a motor its size, too, and even more if you go with the Lima 2.5. That's a pretty good truck engine if you're not going to be too demanding. The Mazda-sourced Duratec 25 was available in Australian-market T6 Rangers starting in 2010, you may be able to find one in decent shape in a wrecking yard, along with the transmission and axle to go with it. That would give you modern driveline hardware and running speeds while keeping it all kinda-sorta in the Ford family.

This would be a fun project. I think modding on old body-on-frame trucks has GOT to be more fun (read: less hassle) than trying to mod newer spaceframe designs.

[edit]

Hey, I just found this:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/...rential-swaps/

Among other things, it lists other vehicles that could provide an axle of the correct width. Looking for different ratios, it may be easiest just to find one of these in a wrecking yard and put a whole new rear end under your truck, if the ratio is more in line with your needs.

A challenge could be to make it as economical as possible using only tech from the 50's :D

Ford escort cvh motors bolt right up to mustang v6 transmissions. 91-96 have lean cruise and other lean burn stuff in factory ECU's.

Cheap cheap parts, and a 1.9l ford has a very "classic" sound.
I'm very biased. But these engines simply cannot get bad mileage from lugging. The EPA was actually upset about the emissions under load, and the lean burn at cruise.

Neither are my videos.
Exhaust sound
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0my93-29JiM

Cvh rock crusher sound (totally healthy in a cvh)
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Vxmatcnk4R4

MSD is for more than a race car
 

I've been thinking it would be easyer to pick up any truck of this body style and stuff my Dodge parts in it than to adjust the stack of bricks body I have now.
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Look into a MSD ignition system as a mpg mod(I ran a 6 Digital it has a friend mode flip a switch and 3000 rpm secondary rev limiter primary was set to 5000rpm in case of u-joint failure) . More complete combustion= better mpg . I was able to drop to 87 octane from 91 octane on my 79 chevyK20 =20-30c per gal cheaper (not mpg but more $ in my wallet just the same)bump my timing up to 14° epa called for 4° with the stock HEI set to 10° 91 was required to stop pinging as I had 10:1 CR. At 14°pulling a 33' 5th wheel at 21,000lbs gross on 7-12% grades without pinging.
Disclamer I also in stalled a RPM Air gap intake ,TH400 w/low stall tork converte built to a 450hp speck (800rpm stall, idle set to 500rpm except the alt, it was happy down to ~425 rpm ) and NP 205 (in place of a NP203) these mods resulting in an increase from 7.4-7.6mpg to 10-14....in short

Congratulations. That looks like a nice example. Is the paint as good inside the cab? Too nice for a real eco-mobile:

http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/wp-...3/IMG_0158.jpg
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2014/03/2014-detroit-autorama-al-grooms-amazing-and-original-bassackwards-midengine-1950-ford-f-1-pickup/

I like old flatheads; they're so pretty with aluminum heads and red paint details. I vote keep the motor and swap in a better transmission. I think that's the Ford top-loader with a Jeep shifter plate. I don't know how you get to 5 or 6 speeds; does it have the torque tube driveline?

When I did these to promote specific aerodynamic features, the only pickup I had as an .obj file was the F-1:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-fr...4-10-08-26.png
http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-fr...ckup-truck.png

The top one is an aerocap. It could be done with top bows and canvas. The top bows could run fore-and-aft. The canvas could be basalt fabric — it's fireproof and knife-proof.

The second one has a half-tonneau, which is almost as effective as a full aerocap. In addition there are Coanda nozzle standpipes (slots at 105° and top caps) and a fold out single-wheel trailer. I sort of threw the kitchen sink at that one.

Will do, there's no way I'm gaping points every 3K miles in this day and age :D

Ah, beware the internet car photo!

The paint job was done 20 years ago, it looks good at 20 paces, but it's not that great up close, and the horizontal surfaces are a bit faded, has a fair few dents. It has a few poorly executed weld repairs, and an oddly bent driver's door. It looks like it's been pulled top and bottom with the door latched shut. I did check carefully and it doesn't look like it's been rolled or anything serious, so hopefully it just needs a new door. The vent cowl has been sealed shut, hopefully just with bondo so I can get that working again (the opening mechanism isn't present). One cab corner's been bogged up, but the other appears sound. Floors are good, interior was redone but the blocking back around details was poor, so sanding marks etc. Seats look good but I think the springs have gone.

That cut down rod is cool but remember the drag penalty of an open car :( I was tossing up between a track capable pick up or a full on Ariel Atom style kit car. I decided that an open topped car would be too limited in it's usability. Looks like he's sort of combined the two.

I'll know more about the engine choice once I do a compression test. If all's well I'll definitely keep the flattie in one form or another. Alloy heads, bump up the CR, bigger carb and exhaust. There's even an Aussie company that sells EFI kits for them. There's someone locally that's invested $50K US in his street engine. The only thing that bothers me is the weight of the thing.

But I wanted a V8 so you know...

Yes, it's a four speed top loader style, but I know T-5 swaps are possible. Not sure about the drive shaft, I only visit the car once a week at the moment.

Wasn't expecting anyone had already CADed one up :thumbup:

True but there's so much to do even adding things like seat belts, so it's a bit hard to know where to start. But at least it's a blank canvas, I can add things that I want without being forced to have them like you have with new cars.

So far the wish list is for about 140hp from the flathead on LPG, a Jaguar IFS and re-geared rear end. Then I can look at fitting A/C and getting the cab quiet enough that I can take bluetooth phone calls.

I did specifically want a V8 and thought about getting something already LS powered but this won out in the end. At the very least it's not a depreciating asset. I do like the idea of an Eco rod, and I really would love EFI even if just so I can have a SG or 'Guino.

There's been a lot of talk about adapting an MPGuino to a fuel flow meter signal, but no one's actually done it. I wonder if gas (LPG) flow meters would be cheaper? LPG also has the advantage that without a mechanical pump (which is also 1hp saved), I think you could add a DFCO mode quite easily. Ignition off, solenoid shuts off gas flow, simple.

https://www.google.com/search?q=ford+f-1+bobber

If I had a truck, I'd want to pitch the bed for a [rotating] tow hook, gas/water/heating oil tank, or a 5th wheel hitch.

Adjust the taper closer to the "template " I like Freebeard's idea ...http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cZ6dmA8_gY...s1600/qreg.JPG
Just A Car Guy : Fuel delivery trucks, the variety is impressive
Gumby Stay Flexible

An excellent example.

I thought on Roadkill they pretty much ruined [the F-6] Stubby Bob. But in this episode they redeem themselves. This thing could literally tow my house.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVs_xZ46Cxw

Some years back I read on the i'net about a guy that played with flatheads a lot. He commented that in years past some were prone to overheating. He said that he found that those that ran hot hadn't had all the core sand cleaned out of the coolant passages. Just in case.

Residual sand has become suspect over the years. OTOH Motor City Flathead suggests unpressurised cooling systems and high compression heads with poor sealing as additional causes.

Motor City Speed Equipment, Dundee Michigan, Overheating

They also offer a new, re-engineered flathead block in 289 to 339cu in.

Motor City Speed Equipment, Dundee Michigan, Newly Engineered Flathead Block

On 7.3 international /Ford the retained casting sand IS still a problem. It plugs up the oil cooler resulting in over heating. The solution add a coolent filter. 9DdpMOilBoSJAAyqWz_AGM7sn3JHI8I9sirGUymEqWRChRv86t qqctlIqUdSxoCPknw_wcB

So much stuff to research. I'd like to avoid doing everything twice :(

Here's an interesting item I found:

JEGS Performance Products 51810 | Buy JEGS Remote Mount Electric A/C Compressor at JEGS

9-30v electric remote mount A/C compressor. One of the Prius' best tricks is being able to run the A/C with the engine off. $1200 is a lot, but I think I'll pay it. On previous cars, I've had massive hits in MPG during 110*F+ days because not only does the A/C take a lot of power, but the engine has to idle just to run the compressor.

I'm a bit surprised such a thing exists, I'd previously given up on the idea of running the A/C off a 12v battery. As it stands, I think I'd go with a dual battery hybrid 12/24v set up. I think the step up to 24v wouldn't gain a whole lot of efficiency, but if I'm running the A/C off it it will likely prove worthwhile. Solar panels on a hard tonneau will mean I can use excess power to keep the cabin cool when parked.

The rated 31A draw (at which voltage?!) means the solar panels (around 400W, rated) won't keep up with it of course, but that all depends on the duty cycle on the day, the F1 cab is tiny, with small near vertical windows, so all things considered the A/C shouldn't have to work too hard. Good insulation will also be a priority.

Remote mount means it can go low and further back, as ideally I'm hoping to get close to 50/50 weight distribution (probably won't happen with a flattie).

That's an interesting base for a project. Anyway, apart from the drivetrain, it seems like one of your first priorities would be fitting seatbelts to the truck, at least some old-school lap belts. And even if you end up adding some modern amenities such as A/C and power steering, I guess you agree with me that it would be cool if the interior looked the closest to stock possible.


The folks at Motor City Flathead really seem to know a lot about it. I've always been a Chevy guy, but actually became interested in flathead engines when I found out more about Mark Kirby and those re-engineered flatheads. Sometimes I even get myself wondering about fitting one into an early F-250 Superduty...

What I wanted really was a Pro-Touring build, which is essentially an old car built for race track use. But the better a car is on track, the more boring it is on the road, the most fun car I've driven on the road is the Fiat 500 (and that includes Skylines and Porsches).

The seat appears to be non-original, it's a fixed base & back and is quite unlike any of the US F1's I've seen. It's also mounted up on some hardwood blocks! So I kind of have to decide on what to do with the seat first, then I'll be able to work out the belts. For now I'm mostly sticking to 60km/h zones, which is most of my driving anyway, and slowing at any intersection etc. I figure it's probably still a bit safer than riding a motorbike, and lots of people still do that.

Some driving impressions, still on target for 15mpg. I've started getting more into EOC, but I don't really trust the 6V starter to engine off at lights (even though it starts faster than a modern car).

EOC with a crash box isn't a lot of fun as you have to keep your foot on the clutch. Normally with a syncro box the syncros will slow the input shaft, with a crash box, you have to wait until it stops on it's own, which is basically far too long to be useful.

All things considered, it coasts pretty well. I'd guess the CD at around 0.4, as it's weight is similar to my Renault and Jeep and coast performance is somewhere between the two. I'm happy with that considering the off road tyres and low pressures (ride is bad enough without pumping them up!). Aero had me worried on these, and was a factor in picking the F1 over other trucks of the era. The narrow cab helps reduce the frontal area, it's about the same width as my Fiat 500, and I tend to prefer a snug cabin (on reason I went with the Fiat over a VW Up).

Some detail pics:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1469846265
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1469846265
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1469846265
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1469846265
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1469846265
Catching up with some other oldies:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1469846265
And first day of work:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1469846265

The bed's been lined with ply and ally checker plate, so it's now a fraction too narrow to take 4' wide materials, that will have to be fixed. I like the step side look, but I'd like a wider bed.

Everything appears as it should. That bed is sized for a 3/4-1ton capacity. What's the biggest piece of diamond plate aluminum? Enough to build a difusser for the rear?

What I think would be good is an aerocap made like this:

http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-fr...5-boattail.jpg

First numbers are in. 13.5mpg or 17.4l/100km. Could be worse I suppose.

Looks like a modern drive train is going to win out. Unfortunately flatties leak badly, and there seems to be no real fix. Right now Ive leaks from just about anywhere possible, including the diff and trans. Also late flatheads lost their hardened valve seats :(

Looking at a 1UZ, T5 and Ford 8.8. Modern leak free and probably about 200lbs lighter than stock.

There's a 4x8 sheet of checker plate in the back. Enough for a good bit of undertray. Though it's probably a bit on the heavy side.

Love those old Ford "flat-head" engines!

The front suspension is a king pin suspension, is it not? If so, some new synthetic grease should help the ride and steering. Did it come with one tail light? I think that a second tail light was an extra cost option. Wait, that's a 49 model, not a 40 model; so two tail lights standard!

Disassemble the leaf springs, add a strip of copper screen impregnated with grease between each leaf and reassemble.

They used to do that, then wrap the spring in leather to protect the grease.

The front end needs work, I suspect the kingpins need to be re-bushed. The tail lights aren't original, it's got a sort of roll pan with lights in there. I'm not sure how original the whole tray is, the fenders don't have the character lines like they should have. In time I'll probably source an original US tray, though I'd like to widen it a bit.

I'm trying to reduce the number of potential leaks/drips I have :eek: