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Quick Test: P&G with EOC vs w/o EOC shows 24% gain
Yesterday on the way to work my engine kill switch started acting up a bit (its a really cheap switch I'm sure not designed for many cycles). So, I decided to keep the engine on and do P&G. Until then, my tank average was right around 66 mpg measured with my scangauge. I drove home without EOC and got 53.0 mpg last night. This morning I got 53.3 mpg on the way into work. So, for those of you who don't think EOC isn't worth it, thats a solid 24% increase in mileage.
To further emphasis this, I do mostly highway driving where the difference between EOC and w/o EOC is minimized due to the faster driving. Also, I don't run my alternator, if I had, idling losses would have been even higher. So, yes, EOC is worth it IMO. |
very interesting!
Thanks for that.. I'm trying to figure if E off C would be ok for my glide phase on the Motorway.. only issue is the fact that I NEED brake vacuum constantly, as its stop/start, and engine braking is not rapid enough to slow the car. mind you, 24% would get me to 50mpg UK.. is the 24% difference from Engine ON to Engine Off? cheers! |
Yup, EOC = engine off coasting
If you're worried about having enough brake vacuum just build a small tank out of PVC pipe as a reservoir. |
This is enough of a difference to make me want to find a cheap 5 speed XJ (Jeep Cherokee) as a city beater/DD. The ability to EOC, etc, and the 1100 pound weight reduction over my current Jeep would make a huge difference. I'd probably be getting 16 - 18 city, versus my current 12 - 13. On the highway, the difference would be mostly due to the smaller engine.
Unfortunately, this and/or a manual tranny swap in my Jeep will likely have to wait until after college, due to budget, and nowhere to store 2 vehicles up here, amongst other things. :( If I could find a place to store the 5.9, I'd keep the XJ on campus, and the 5.9 elsewhere, and use it to trailer the XJ up here and back home. The roads around here would be great for EOC. However, the reduction in space for stuff, and the much less comfortable ride is enough that I wouldn't want to just drive the XJ up here and have it as my only vehicle during college. Or, maybe I'd even get a smaller manual tranny vehicle, but my biggest limitation is that I HATE FWD, and small, efficient RWD vehicles are hard to come by... |
you are weird, whats so bad with FWD that you cannot operate it?
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Torque steer, understeer, nose-heavy, crowded engine bay, faster front tire wear, limited power/acceleration traction...
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but you can get a tiny stick shift that gets awesome mpg for peanuts, get over it.
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I come from a world of drifting.. A RWD dominated sport.. I love my FF civic, and it's MPG's |
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Aeromodder's got it. The torque steer doesn't bother me, but being nose-heavy and tending towards understeer are major issues. I hate understeer, and I tend to push cars a bit in the corners, as it helps me avoid slowing down on the backroads. Even driven gently, FWD cars have worse tire wear (unbalanced front to rear) than RWD cars.
Plus, IMO, FWD sucks in the snow. Yeah, it's a little harder to get stuck, but it's nowhere near as pleasant as far as handling when you're moving. A RWD converted 2 door Accord with a stick and some aero mods would be perfect. |
Torque steer can be a problem if you have allot of power on a FWD. Understeer and oversteer are handling issues not drive train that can be addressed with better swaybars. I can take turns at 15mph faster than my friends jeep and stay on pace with another friends mustang.
Snow/ice have never been an issue and I have had to push my moms G35 out of the snow several times. When the weather is bad we take my car because it handles vary well in the snow and does not get stuck. |
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The thing though, you only know what you are used too.. A well setup FWD car will easily beat any RWD car for neutral handling in corners... And again, well setup, the tire wear is only slightly biased, not more than what can be ecpected from a car that both steers and powers with the same pair of wheels... As for handling in snow... I'll take a FWD car any time... Unless I can have AWD that is... |
EOC - Be careful if you have a turbo - shutting off the engine will leave the oil sitting in the turbo happily boiling away and overheating the seals. I have a thread about this somewhere. :)
See Wikipedia on Turbo Timers. Quote:
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Sorry DP - FWD vs RWD.
Scandanavian Flick Quote:
Until of course that incident with the dry stone wall in Cumbria. |
Doax, I had done a study last year looking at EOC vs. Coasting while idling. There are a couple factors that should be considered. How many oppertunities to coast you have and the your idle GPH. For me, I only have 10 minutes of coasting available during my 1 hour commute. My idle GPH is around 0.17, so the benefit of EOC vs. Coasting for me is only 2% or less than 1 mpg. For the effort and money to swap in an mtx, the payback would take quite a long time. However, I might find that more oppertunities to EOC if I had a MTX and if I need to replace a transmission, then the cost difference of swaping becomes minimal vs. replacing an ATX.
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with just starting to do P&G on my civic I have gotten about a 15-20% gain over a few tanks
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I'm with you Bobo, I got the same car and get 37-38 P&Ging all over, I really like that I get about the same mileage city & highway when I'm "supposed" to get only 30mpg in town. Love the Civic. Good job to you getting 43!!
As for FWD Vs RWD Vs AWD, get over yerselves on it, I've driven them all a shatload in all kinds of weather, you just gotta know what you got and use it. I will say, my 1990 Laser (Eclipse/Talon) 135 HP FWD I bought new was a freakin snowmobile, never got stuck in Michigan winters and I drove like a maniac most of the time...it's a wonder I'm alive. (Sold it in 1998 with 247,000 miles on it) |
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