Rear skirts finished up!
 

Haven't tested yet, but I'm pretty pleased with the result!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...y/IMG_0046.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...y/IMG_0039.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...y/IMG_0041.jpg

Looks great! How'd you attach them to the car?

I'll have to go out there and take a picture. I can't really explain it very well... give me a bit.

How did you get the coroplast to bend in the front end of the wheel well? It is rubbing the tire?

I'm also interested to see how you made everything work.

Nice job! They look really good.

Look better than mine. Wanna see your pics of the install so I can improve mine.

that looks slick, I like it.

It's like you're posting the story in reverse. Was this mentioned in another thread?

My money's on welding rod stuffed in the coroplast flutes and (MetroMPG?)'s clips.

Ok, more photos:

The gap between the skirt and the tire/wheel cover:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ps7000bb52.jpg

Mounting Points:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ps21150447.jpg

And to answer the question about curvature:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ps433db2ff.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ps9148f69f.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...pse23bc08c.jpg

I'll be the first to admit that it isn't the best design, but it should be effective. I think there is still room for improvement, but it's a good start!

I'd say the design is pretty good, but not the materials. What you have there is a pattern for something that will take the weather.

I took spacemanspif's word for it that you had used coroplast. Do you have any of that?

The rod looks about right for gauge/weight. With coroplast you could slip the rod through the flutes. If you V-notch the ends of the flutes along the curved edge the rod forming the edge could be let in and the edge wrapped with strapping tape or something. You could hollow out the coroplast enough to slip metal washers in between the skins.

If you left maybe four of the nuts and washers off, would it still stay attached?

It's coroplast.
You have me looking at the beetle now. Thanks I think :D

The amount of attachment points are not to keep it on the car but to keep the edges from flexing out into the air stream. It's to keep the edges of the coroplast fixed against the edges of the fender. So, yes it would stay attached to the car, but it would allow much more air to get into the wheelwell.

A few questions:
Are you saying that I should put the metal rods inside the coroplast?
What do you mean by "V-notch"?
Why would I want the metal washers inside the coroplast vs. where they are on the outside?

In answer; yes, and it's worth a picture—let me get back to you.

I guess it is coroplast. I thought it looked like corrugated cardboard. Was it spray painted? I guesss the next step up would be Alumacorr.

EDIT: Will this do for now?
http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-fr...12-1-55-49.png

From the upper left, raw coroplast, V-notched so the wire or rod will stay centered (a flat-bottomed notch won't do that), and the V-notch recessed so the material can be rolled over the edge. The middle one could be used with a taped edge (packing tape or metal tape), But the recessed version could be rolled outside to insde over inside to outside and you'd have double thickness of the material on the edge and lots of area for gluing.

As for the washer, you could roll the wire around the edge of the washer and solder or epoxy it. then gouge out a cavity in the flutes and when the wire is threaded through it will pull the washer in with it. If nothing else, it's less parts to lose alongside the road on a dark and rainy night.

Did you screw your attachment points into your wheel arches?

Watching your new tuft tests on your other thread today really shows how effective these are... in those vids the air remains attached behind the rear wheel well. Nice. Thanks.