Reviving another Metro
This will be a "DIY" on purchasing and rebuilding/repairing a used Geo Metro for a budget of $1000 including the purchase price of the used car.
I was hoping to get the wife a really nice Metro since she wants another one, but we found an ad on craigslist for a local Metro for sale and the price was cheap. We visited the guy who was about 4 miles from our house and checked it out. Using my own info from the Metro Buyer's Guide I was armed with the info I needed. Right away, I noticed the rocker panel rust and rear fender rust. First thing I did was inspect the front control arm mounts and they were actually in better shape then the ones on my other Metro. I inspected and tested all the other items and figured it was worth saving. Here it is when we first got it home......... http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f411549/blue003.jpg http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f411548/blue006.jpg http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f411550/blue005.jpg http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f411551/blue008.jpg The car only has 69,000 miles on it, but surprisingly, the #3 cylinder was dead. I was aware of this when I test drove it. We got the car for the same price we paid for Christine. This car has a decent frame, a good transmission, a decent interior, nice dash and un-molested stereo, and no dents on the body. After my inspection I got a list of what the car needs. Head rebuild (bottom end inspection) Oil pan (repaired at one time with fiberglass) Front pads and rotors (The front brakes are toast) Exhaust repairs (cat, resonator) Tires (2 are bald) Body work (see pics below) http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f411554/blue007.jpg http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f411553/blue011.jpg So the plan is this. I am going to tear down the engine and rebuild the head. The oil pan will get replaced, but I will also inspect the pistons. With 69K, I might get away with just the top end. I am going to fix the exhaust, brakes, tires, and all the other minor mechanical issues. After it's roadworthy, the car will be getting some body work done by a guy I work with who is pretty good at it. We will use factory matching paint. The window tint on the car looks horrible, and all the tint will be removed and professionally installed. I will keep you all up to date! Total invested = $450.00 (purchase price) |
Doh! I opened this thread thinking we were going to see the start of a thread about a "skunkworks" Metro - as in: you've already got the nice red one, and this was going to be the crazy modded one!
(Not that there's anything wrong with fixing up a car for the missus !) |
I was going to do the Singh grooves on the "Detailed Head Rebuild", but never did. I think I will do this on blue.
So this morning, the head got removed and placed on the bench. I always remove the head with the intake attached since it's so much easier that way.............. http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f412670/bluejtd001.jpg Here is why there was no compression on #3 cylinder........... http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f412671/bluejtd002.jpg So I removed the intake and set it aside............. http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f412672/bluejtd003.jpg I then removed the cam, lifters, and valves keeping it all in order............. http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f412673/bluejtd005.jpg Now on to the block. Notice the head gasket holes on the upper left and right sides........ http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f412674/bluejtd008.jpg Someone has been in here before. Anyway, it's time to perform the block prep and testing. I cleaned the block surface with a mild roloc disc and blew out the head bolt holes........ http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f412675/bluejtd009.jpg http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f412676/bluejtd010.jpg Then to check the bottom end, I used cleaning solvent used in shop parts wash tanks and poured it into the cylinders to see if the solvent runs through the cylinders............ http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f412678/bluejtd011.jpg No leakdown there, so I can trust the bottom end since there was no smoke or noises. Using a brush, I cleaned the top of the pistons with a brush using the solvent already in there........ http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f412677/bluejtd014.jpg Next steps will be doing the valve job and cleaning the lifters. |
Cleaned out the EGR port through the head.............
http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f412857/bluejblk003.jpg http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f412851/bluejblk002.jpg Piston tops came out nice. The rest of the carbon will be removed with a kitchen teaspoon and then I will rotate the crank to bring each one up, remove carbon, and used compressed air to clean around the sides of the pistons on low pressure, but since I'm dropping the pan, I might just go ahead and re-ring it............ http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f412849/bluejblk001.jpg Tomorrow, I need to bring my cutting wheel to hack the darn exhaust downpipe bolts. The heads are totally rounded off and I will have better luck cutting, extracting, and re-installing. I will also swap out the 2 bad tires with a good pair I took off of my Metro. I still have to get those lifters apart and cleaned and clean up the intake valves. I am getting stainless steel exhaust valves from 3Tech and they should arrive shortly. |
Nice work.
A quick word for the less experienced though, when you use roloc discs on an aluminum head or block you must be extremely careful not to over do it or you will end up cutting into the soft aluminum. This will result in a poor headgasket seal and you may end up needing to get the head or block refaced. Ive seen this done in my shop a time or two and its not pretty. Done right however the rolocs are amazing for gasket removal and sealing surface prep.!! |
Yay Johnny!
I'd still love to find a 3cyl/5 speed in even half decent condition... then having time/money/a place to do this. Then again, I'd probably want to swap a small diesel into it for the money. |
that is great work. if I was to choose a geo, it is model of engine in photos. great find. I see the back end has high fuel mileage physics. there is even special tires for this. (thicker "edges"). The egr..if legal where you live, block it off and conform vacuum valves and carb to not having it...hypermiling begins there, and that also stops strangeness on body and exhaust.headgaskets stay sealed, studs stay studs, pipes stay pipes, paint stays paint, tires stay tires...and the cabin is a natural cool and odored by nature, no strangeness...and of there is a leaking acetone truck in front of the car to suck on..guess what? it is no longer A BOMB waiting to happen.:confused:
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Cleaned the rust scale from the rims after getting decent tires on it...........
http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f415079/rimsngrooves001.jpg Paint and tire shine............ http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f415081/rimsngrooves004.jpg Quote:
What the hell............. http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f415083/rimsngrooves010.jpg Die Grinder tomorrow :) |
Singh Grooves
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Precision is for picky people :)
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thats the stuff i need to learn
wish you were my neighbor |
Well, my parts from 3Tech Performance finally arrived...............
http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f415665/...rooves3333.jpg For the wife's ride, I got the 10 degree advanced timing gear and 3 stainless steel valves. I opted against the economy cam since she likes to drive at high RPM,s and is usually like any other woman, from the gas to the brake :) I did not get the grooves cut yet because I am taking some advice from you guys and the guys on my site to use "precision" when cutting the grooves. I am going to make a template so the grooves are equal in all 3 cylinders. More updates soon! |
I opted against cutting the grooves in the head. I just wanted to get the car running and did not want any issues. I did learn a valuable lesson! Never re-use head bolts! I had no idea there would be any problems re-using them since I did on my 1998. So after torquing the used bolts here is what happened............
http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f416856/...llfixed001.jpg I spent a few hours with a small, sharp chisel and a hammer threading these 2 broken studs out, but luckily I did not have to drill! I had 2 new sets of head bolts to use. I have a set from 3Tech and another regular set. I forgot my 8MM, so I had to use the regular head bolts. I guess you get stupid after a few beers :) Anyway, I got it all together and she fired right up! Just like on my Metro, I had to adjust the 3Tech cam gear since I was a tooth off to start with. I could hear it ping on load. After setting the gear properly, I was able to advance the ignition timing to max. Here is the engine all together............ http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f416878/...llfixed003.jpg While the engine was running, I let the coolant burp while I replaced the front pads and rotors. These brakes must have been original equipment! What a royal pain in the ass it was trying to get these brakes cleaned up and working properly again. I called the wife who was at work and told her the exciting news! She said........... "Took you long enough." If she only knew what I went through with the broken head bolts! Anyway, I figured a good test run would be the 20 minute ride to her work. I drove it up there and showed her the car. The car ran perfectly! She really liked the painted valve cover. I also had to get the official finishing touch on the windows........... http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f416881/...llfixed007.jpg Now I have to repair the exhaust and then work on the body and frame. Parts list........... Felpro head gasket kit 3Tech Stainless exhaust valves 3Tech 10 degree advanced gear Alternator belt Front pads & rotors Plugs, wires, cap, rotor Oil & filter Total parts cost so far = $320.00 Total investment so far = $770.00 I got a quote from a local paint shop for matching paint and it looks like by time I get the body work and exhaust work done, I will be under my $1000.00 budget. |
That's a beautiful example, Johnny...
The only thing I could have suggested is that if you had a drill handy, you drill the tops of the head bolts, blow them out with compressed air, and then thread in some self tapping screws with loc-tite on them. In about 10 minutes, you'd be able to put a socket on the self-tappers and pull the broken bolts out. Regarding not reusing head bolts, I've done it, it's never recommended, but on any "Torque to yield" specified engine, it's never a good idea, and will almost always end like this. Torque to yield, for those who don't know, means that you literally torque the bolts until they're ready to fail. You're actually stretching the bolt in the bore. Lots of newer cars don't require a specific torque value anymore... they usually require something like "torque to 90 lbft in 2 steps, then turn another 1/2 turn in sequence." That means those bolts aren't suitable to use again. |
It's funny how my first Metro and this Metro all needed the same, similar work done. I still got a lot of time to invest in this second car, but just like the first car, the fuel savings will pay me back before winter.
http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f416883/...fixed22002.jpg http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f416884/...fixed22004.jpg |
I am a huge fan of your work, Johnny. Keep us posted on the bodywork.
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Johnny, I showed my Father your car pictures... and tried to explain what you'd done with both cars.
He said: "Huh. Those are nice." Which is a HUGE compliment, coming from my Father. Just though I'd point that out to you. |
Well, the body restoration has begun. I look at this poor car and think to my self..........
"What normal person would attempt to revive this old rusty Metro." http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f419900/bodyprep001.jpg More photos and updates coming up. |
Car is coming in for a total rework on the body now. Here are the sisters in the yard...........
http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f421595/newshots002.jpg |
Jeez... That's a thing of beauty.
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Quote:
i must disagree with this - so please educate me , and explain to myself just how and why you believe this to be true . |
Another long night staying after work.
We had all the grinding done and then the metal was welded in place............ http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f421483/bodyprep007.jpg My friend at work is pretty handy with body work and he agreed to help out with my Metro restoration. We worked late into the night............ http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f421475/bodyprep005.jpg After grinding, Duraglass was used, and then shaped and sanded. After the duraglass, regular body filler was used to fill in the small imperfections................ http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f421487/bodyprep008.jpg Then both sides of the rocker panels got sheet metal welded in place and then a coat of duraglass......... http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f421486/bodyprep010.jpg We called it a night and then the next night we finished the major patching and repairing. While he was doing that, I had to do something with the rear bumper. The rear mounts were totally rusted off and there were long lagbolts used to hold the bumper on. You can see those bolts on this pic from when I first got it......... http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f411548/blue006.jpg I removed the actual bumper from the skin and bolted it to the body by drilling holes and using bolts to secure it and then I used 90 degree brackets on the top and bottom to give it more strength............ http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f421498/bodyprep999002.jpg The skin was then installed after the body work and paint. The body was prepped and cleaned and then a coat of primer.............. http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f421497/bodyprep999001.jpg After the primer was sanded with fine grit, the panels were cleaned again and then painted with a rattle can mixed with the matching factory paint from a local paint shop.......... http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f421499/bodyprep999004.jpg Here is the outcome from the paint................ http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f421500/bodyprep999008.jpg I brought it home and was informed to return on our day off Monday for buffing and blending. I will be sure to post the final results when it's all done and ready to deliver to the Mr's :) |
Double post?
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No, I edited the first and put the newest up to show on the top of page 3. I am weird like that :)
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This is fantastic work. A lot of this engine stuff doesn't come so intuitively to me, so I'm hesitant to start restoring my XFi project. There are plenty of engine rebuild kits out there, but I'm not sure I need to drop the money to get every single thing... I don't know the names of every single engine internal, but I'm not afraid to tear something apart and put it back together. Do you have any advice on going about taking my engine apart and diagnosing what should be replaced? I don't think it has any major problems running, I just needed to pull the engine anyway to work on the control arm mounts. Seemed like a good time to take a peek inside while it's out of there. I did try starting it, but it didn't work because I had removed the cam and put it back in totally wrong. (big puffs of air were blowing into the intake instead of the exhaust)... and it had year old gas in it.
Again, extraordinary work. You certainly are crafty, and speedy with your progress. Thanks a million for posting this - very useful. |
Here is a nice pic of the rocker panel all fixed up. I should have got a before picture............
http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f422129/...mperfix001.jpg The rear bumper skin was remounted on the car and secured so it fits correctly......... http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f422130/...mperfix002.jpg Here is a general shot of the car, but it is not done. My friend at work has to blend it with the buffer and remove any overspray from the paint.............. http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f422131/...mperfix004.jpg This car is almost done and we will be taking it on a 10 hour drive to Rhode Island on our vacation real soon. |
After a lot of hard work and time spent on this car in the last 2 weeks, It's finally done. I officially delivered to the wife and she is happy as ever. She actually has a nicer looking Metro than me. Here it is after buffing, glazing, and waxing the car..............
http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f424361/2cleanmetros998.jpg http://209.85.62.24/165/2/0/f424362/2cleanmetros999.jpg |
Congrats on a job well done, Johnny.
Looking at that last pic... did you manage to find a set of OEM alloy Geo rims for your red car?? Or are those wheel covers? |
Nice work... you doing these cars is like Darin entering into a fuel economy run. It's just not fair. You make it look easy. Pros I tell you.
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OEM hubcaps on Christine and the other ones came from Kmart.
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