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yanlapanic 09-18-2009 09:52 PM

An simple idea : heat gaz
 
Hi ,

here in quebec , in winter we hit -30 degree celcius ... car milleage goes worst . But what is the différence with summer ? gaz is cold , air is cold , (engine still warn up ) ... so we can put a hot air intake but should it be possible to heat the gazoline before going to the injector or there will be condensation ?


just a simple idea ... ex: turn the line over the manifold or radiator hoses ?

Frank Lee 09-18-2009 09:55 PM

You'd be better off making sure you always have the stereo on full blast; that will vibrate ice crystals in the fuel into smaller ice crystals that are easily passed. Also the vibration raises temperature in liquids so there ya are, multiple great benefits of cranking that stereo as high as it will go. Make sure you select tunes with much bass so that you can spread the joy even further.

As far as some other way of heating gaz, I've never heard of that and I've been obsessing over this for a long time so I'm pretty sure it's never been done.

yanlapanic 09-18-2009 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Frank Lee (Post 128555)
You'd be better off making sure you always have the stereo on full blast; that will vibrate ice crystals in the fuel into smaller ice crystals that are easily passed. Also the vibration raises temperature in liquids so there ya are, multiple great benefits of cranking that stereo as high as it will go. Make sure you select tunes with much bass so that you can spread the joy even further.

As far as some other way of heating gaz, I've never heard of that and I've been obsessing over this for a long time so I'm pretty sure it's never been done.

heeem not sure ...

200 rms is not enough for that ;)

is that theory a joke ?

Frank Lee 09-18-2009 10:32 PM

Maybe your... amp isn't big enough?

Christ 09-18-2009 11:00 PM

20 amps at 12VDC (conservative figure) is 240W... if you're only getting 200W, you're losing a great deal of signal somewhere.

Bicycle Bob 09-19-2009 02:29 AM

Heating gasoline and/or intake air has been discussed here before. The biggest reason for low mileage in winter is that the air is denser and gives more drag. Other factors are road surfaces and running rich during warm-up. Use a block heater even if starting is easy.

bgd73 09-19-2009 02:49 AM

homogeny

yanlapanic 09-19-2009 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bicycle Bob (Post 128585)
Heating gasoline and/or intake air has been discussed here before. The biggest reason for low mileage in winter is that the air is denser and gives more drag. Other factors are road surfaces and running rich during warm-up. Use a block heater even if starting is easy.

Ha okay , thanks for complete answer

yanlapanic 09-19-2009 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Christ (Post 128566)
20 amps at 12VDC (conservative figure) is 240W... if you're only getting 200W, you're losing a great deal of signal somewhere.



HEee ... why should I have 20 amp ?

hey my amplifier is a 200 watt rms ... thats it ... 15 amp

Christ 09-19-2009 10:58 AM

In your sig, it says 20-25 amp... I went with 20.

yanlapanic 09-19-2009 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Christ (Post 128619)
In your sig, it says 20-25 amp... I went with 20.

Oo yeah i remember adding about 5-10 amp for the radio and my second amplifier .

Christ 09-19-2009 11:02 AM

Well, that's still counted as an audio component... and if your head unit is 10 watts per channel, unless you're using a line out (non-pre-amped) it's 210 W max output to whatever speakers that amp is running. *the term is daisy chained*

If you have an amp powering another amp, you add up the wattage of the two amps. Most head units are amplified, so you add the wattage of the head unit to the wattage of the amp when considering your total output.

yanlapanic 09-19-2009 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Christ (Post 128622)
Well, that's still counted as an audio component... and if your head unit is 10 watts per channel, unless you're using a line out (non-pre-amped) it's 210 W max output to whatever speakers that amp is running. *the term is daisy chained*

If you have an amp powering another amp, you add up the wattage of the two amps. Most head units are amplified, so you add the wattage of the head unit to the wattage of the amp when considering your total output.

radio ( max 10 amp cause fuse is 10 amp ) probably more 4-5 amp (drive 2 speaker )

2 amplifier (independant )

prs-x320 2x 100 watts
prs-x220 2x30 watts

Big Dave 09-19-2009 01:52 PM

Your problem isn't in the engine compartment.

Air at -30C holds zero water and is very dense. Remember the "rho" in the road load equation? That's air density. Aero drag is proportional to air density.

Also snow and ice covered roads enforce a very non-hypermiling style of driving.

Don't blame the gas.

yanlapanic 09-19-2009 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big Dave (Post 128644)
Your problem isn't in the engine compartment.

Air at -30C holds zero water and is very dense. Remember the "rho" in the road load equation? That's air density. Aero drag is proportional to air density.

Also snow and ice covered roads enforce a very non-hypermiling style of driving.

Don't blame the gas.

yes you are right

air is dense .

99metro 09-20-2009 01:38 PM

Well, in the gas turbine world, for those who use diesel for fuel, it is recommended that the fuel be heated to 100 degF. Gasoline, a different animal.

"Maybe" heating gasoline from -30C to something above 0C might help a bit with combustion in keeping the cylinder temperature up - assuming you use a warm air intake in conjunction. Cold air plus cold fuel can't be the best combustion process.


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