It's cold

[Dust]

It's so cold that my aftermarket water temp gauge flashes at me because it is below the warning point. Ok, it's only just below freezing, but a 650cc engine with a good sized OEM radiator takes most of my drive to work to get the stock needle to the middle, and my aftermarket up to 140F. I have a turbo in the car(OEM), and I have water injection installed pre and post turbo. The intake has a hose attachment that goes behind the headlight. I am thinking about pulling it out and letting it suck air from toward the turbo.

Daihatsu Move pictures 1999

here is a pic. The turbo is above the license plate, and the radiator is on the opposite side.
Also, the top grill is half blocked already(to protect the turbo), and I am considering blocking the other half off too. I will start there, and see how the temps do. If that doesn't work, then I will try to block the bottom half with something attached to the grill, not to the radiator

Anyone see any problems with this?

[justjohn]

I'm going to beat guitarguy or whoever it is that lives in the mountains and say, "that's not cold." In fact, it's only been that warm once here in the past couple weeks.

As for the mods, that means you plan to change both the air intake placement and further block the grill?

[Chalupa102]

U should consider an engine block heater.

[Dust]

No outside outlet - no block heater.

Mr, Wisconsin, let me rephrase. Being that it reaches 100F at 95% humidity in the summer, and me being from Texas, 20F is cold, especially when Japan doesn't believe in insulation or central air. The wind doesn't help me feel warm either.

Anyway, the plan is to pull the intake extension, so the airbox faces the engine. If that doesn't work, I will look at pulling the airbox, and mounting a filter closer to the turbo. It will take a while to find the rad block stuff, so I can see what the airbox mod does.

[RobertSmalls]

How long is your commute? My car with its 1L engine takes 3 miles to warm up, and that's with the radiator 95% blocked off and the heater dial set to Cold. Before I replaced the thermostat, it took more than twice as long to warm up.

A warm air intake won't raise coolant temps very fast. I believe forum member Daox recently did a study and came to that conclusion.

Stick a sheet of cardboard in front of the radiator, set the heater to Cold, and see what she does.

[Dust]

7 km, usually going 40 kmph up. I will try to get something jammed in there, and not remote start it on the way home to see what it does.

I've been meaning to do the warm air, since I have a performanc safeguard in the WMI, and the extra mpg would be nice.

[bgd73]

alternative source for heat rise wthout blocking the engine. that is about all I learned. I got a cold running boxer in a cold place. tried it all.

the errors?
1. heat rise from exhaust: electrical tragedy waiting to kill something
2. heat rise from top half of grill blocked...pinging constantly, the top half suffocated itself.
3. EGR? don't even get me started on that one..refer to number 1, that is only the beginning of the egr route
4. lower half block... created cold carb, overheated oil.
5. and my first real attempt at making myself a jackass was blocking the whole thing.


I do have a cure in mind.. heat rise source not related to the engine, like a resistor, in the path of a full cold air duct. No excuses for errors then, and oe design gets to stay that way.

[Dust]

Found a one rate box my parents sent to me that should cover most of it, but since I am at school, I cant go wrench on my car. Just need to pull 4 10mm bolts, and find a way to make it stay.