slant back nose
 

The civic bumper sticks out in the middle, and the lower part slopes back to the underside of the car. I'd like to improve this by maintaining the upper grill angle to the underside, while maintaining the protection in the middle.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y41...ps5a734287.jpg

aerohead's truck
 

I like the angle of aerohead's truck quite a bit, and would like to do my car the same way.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...3&d=1397838771

slope
 

I don't have the work with me,but FIAT investigated nose drag,and the tuck-under nose as you have has the highest drag.
A vertical,or slightly slant-back nose are equal as far as drag reduction compared to the tuck-under.
I chose the slant-back, as it best imitates the half-body and also channels air to the sides a bit like a splitter.
I found some gray urethane rubber floor mat for the lowest portion at BIG-LOTS.$16 for 16-sq-ft.If I hit a curb parking,it just deforms,then springs back when backing away.
Last night,coming in from West Texas,I pulled 35.26 mpg at 60-mph.This is without:headlight covers,belly pan,or any boat tail.
And I attribute the good numbers to the airdam portion of the nose.I've never seen numbers like this without it.

slant back nose
 

Aerohead, are you saying a vertical or slightly slant-back nose are better than the tuck-under, or that all of them are equal to each other?

I'll go by big lots today and look for the urethane floor mat. I got 1/2 inch foam floor mat in 6x 2x2" sections before, but it might be a different type.

better?
 

Yes,the tuck-under type demonstrated the highest drag of the three types tested,with slant-back and vertical face of equal drag.
The mat may be in the hardware/automotive section.One side is smooth,the other is an embossed star-plate design.2-ft by 2-ft square,4-to a package I think.

slant back nose
 

Thanks for the details. Your design is exactly what I want to do.

Will I need to remove the bumper, and replace it with something else?

http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...6&d=1397939808

remove
 

I posted some DIY instructions at Pawtuckett's 'My 95 CIVIC' thread which explain the build.

diy instructions
 

Reposting the instructions

by Aerohead

I left the car intact, and simply created a mockup of the mods out of cardboard and regular masking tape, after triple waxing the attachment areas with Meguire's 100% carnauba car wax.

Then I did wet layups of fiberglass cloth and polyester resin right over the mockups, both from The Home Depot paint department.

After 3-layers of cloth/resin and a good cure, I pried the parts off the car and tossed them into a stock tank from a local farm supply house (sometimes you see these at tire stores where they immerse leaky tires to locate leaks) to 'dissolve' the cardboard, leaving only the shell.

Some Bondo body filler and sanding (again from Home Depot) later, I used spray primer and top coats from AutoZone/O'Reileys, plus some 3M colored tape to simulate the HONDA trim.

An air compressor is handy for operating pneumatic air files and rotary sanders. An electric random-orbital sander and sanding blocks help dial in the final shape. A good respirator is a must for both dust and VOCs coming off the paints. Eye protection (I also hook a cheap HOOVER vacuum cleaner to my random-orbital to keep dust down). An air blower,then Detroit tack rags are good for final cleaning before primer and top coats. Use all the ventilation you can get.

I just drilled into the car for attachment using trim screws from an auto paint supply house. I used riv-nuts in existing holes when I could, for belly pan especially.

And a trailer light kit for the boat tail. It slips on and off like a glove also. Rocker panel extensions were fabbed up at a local sheetmetal company. The elliptical wing is 4-pcs of baseboard trim joined together back-to-back and glassed over. Plexiglass for the fenestrations. Lexan would be way better.

It's easier to do than talk about. You can't hurt anything and the learning curve is fast.