Success, kinda!
 

Wanted to let everyone know that my nissan truck is legal, and has been road tested. The debugging is still going on though. The coupler had to be redone, and the engine mount was twisted from the torque in reverse. Which leads me to my questions. Can uncoated copper be used for cable ends for the batteries, and does anyone here know how to reduce the speed in reverse on a kelly kdh 9500? Thanks, Watt:D

Sweeeet, good work!

I'd expect you'd find that bare copper might corrode pretty quickly compared to other materials.

Most electrical connectors I know of are copper that's coated with something, like zinc or nickel. I think you might have good luck tinning the lugs with plain old solder, but I'm not entirely sure.

Thanks for the replies.I was looking at one of my cables today, and there was a little corrosion on it. Is it true that copper can store electricity? I was told today that they could cause a voltage drop by not releasing the electricity through the cables, as they act like capacitors. Would a washer provide some insulation between the battery post and the cable end? I will be looking into some way to put a coating on them, solder sounds like a good solution. any thoughts on the controller question? Take care, Watt:D

I dunno about the capacitor effect, but I'll explain quickly how to get properly sized cable lugs for ~4 cents per lug:

Instructions:

1. Buy soft copper tubing that your wire's casing fits into.
2. Cut your pieces so the length is 3x the diameter of the tubing you're cutting.
3. Crimp just one end of the tubing that you're using for the lug, but not far... like 1-2mm.
4. Strip your wire back so that 1-2mm of the casing fits into the lug still.
5. Using a light hammer, begin tapping the crimped end until you've flattened your lug about 1/2 way up.
6. Drill hole that matches your project's size.
7. Fill the other end with solder if you feel that you need to, then seal with either liquid tape or heat shrink tubing.

I've done this for just about every time I've needed a lug, and haven't had any problems that I know of yet. (Customer parts, etc.)

Maybe I'll do a pictorial write-up on it someday.. :rolleyes:

Homemade lugs
 

I am glad to know I didn't mess the cables up. What you describe is very close to what I made to fit on 2/0 welding cable for my battery pack. I may try washers to insulate and keep them tight on the wing nut posts. Thanks again for the help. Watt:D

It's probably a good idea to tin them with solder once you've made the size of lug that you want, though. Lead and tin don't oxidize like copper does. Prefer you to use tin solder, not lead, but if that's what you got, I guess it's as good as any.

You could also do an alum dip, if you're OK with chemistry.

Is your reverse actually running the motor backwards?

If it is, can't you just run the reverse circuit off less voltage (only using part of the pack) to slow it down? I shouldn't think that using part of the pack for only a second will actually affect the pack's differential discharge any more than just using it would...

If you're still spinning the motor forward, again, is there a way that you can put Reverse gear with a switch/sensor that when the reverse lights are on, it cuts the voltage/current in the controller so that it can't spin up as fast?

Then again, can't you just use less throttle?

Kelly 9500 reverse
 

Hi, Was checking the posts and saw your question. The people who make the controller have a programming download to change settings(speed, current, etc.) I wanted to use the half current option but it doesn't enable when I click on it. The motor is paired to the original 5 speed gearbox, and the motor spins the same direction all the time. I have tried easing the throttle but the torque is frightening. Am adjusting the motor speed and current settings to see if that works. Will check at a welding supply store local for some liquid solder for the lugs. Have a good one. Watt:D

I guess the only thing I could suggest is a short-draw switch, so that you're only using the power from a part of the pack instead of all of it.

Like I said before, reversing for a few seconds won't offset your pack that much that it won't equalize as soon as you start using it again.