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Old 03-06-2009, 11:42 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Wow, you guys are going hardcore on this...

Piwoslaw - Just use normal adjustable airshocks that will fit in your vehicle. Someone somewhere will be able to cross reference them for you.

I used to have adjustable air-struts on my first Honda (not for Fe reasons) and I just kept a 20lb CO2 tank in the trunk, the struts were hooked up to valve blocks with schrader valves in them.

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Old 03-06-2009, 11:54 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Hmmm. Let's see. your typical air ride needs the following parts:

Air springs- $65-75 each and you need 4.
Air tank- 5 gallons about $50
Compressor- Few hundred depending on what type you get.
Valves- $35-60 a piece, 2 for each spring
Airline- pretty inexpensive
Misc wiring and other stuff- $$$

All in all, it's going to be pretty expensive. I plan on doing a full air-ride, but only because it's awesome.
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Old 03-07-2009, 01:35 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christ View Post
Wow, you guys are going hardcore on this...

Piwoslaw - Just use normal adjustable airshocks that will fit in your vehicle. Someone somewhere will be able to cross reference them for you.

I used to have adjustable air-struts on my first Honda (not for Fe reasons) and I just kept a 20lb CO2 tank in the trunk, the struts were hooked up to valve blocks with schrader valves in them.
Those don't allow any significant lowering do they? Stock springs will keep it up in the air.
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Old 03-07-2009, 01:42 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Those don't allow any significant lowering do they? Stock springs will keep it up in the air.
The air-struts on my Honda were for highway/road use, and they actually replaced the strut/spring assembly altogether.

Air shocks won't allow a full lowering, like replacing springs would, but they do allow for *some* lowering, by using less pressure in them.

My Sunbird had airshocks on the back (I had a hitch/trailer and needed the shocks to keep it stable) and I could raise it up 3" or lower it down about 1.5" from stock with them, but I'm sure part of that was worn springs.
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Old 03-07-2009, 02:32 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Oh. See, I replaced all the struts on my car once, and one was completely, 100% blown out. Yet, that corner was no lower.
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Old 03-07-2009, 11:00 AM   #16 (permalink)
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FWIW, I lowered my truck 4 inches and did realize a 1 MPG improvement. My truck was fairly tall, so potholes and high-centering were not issues to me and my lowering is static.

It does work but whether or not its worth the hassle and expense is a value judgment.
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Old 03-07-2009, 01:43 PM   #17 (permalink)
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air suspension

All the low-drag concept cars of the last two decades have active- variable-height suspension to lower the car for highway travel.So your instincts are correct.As other members have touched on,suspension geometry and durability are big issues.------------------------- The low-riders in the past,used hydraulic suspension,with belt-driven pump and slave cylinder rams at each wheel.The front wheels camber would change radically through full range of motion,and I'd never consider that safe for high speed highway travel.----------------------------------------------------------------- After Ford's development of the PROBE series of concept cars,they offered an air suspension on Lincoln cars.The front suspension incorporated a special air strut with linear ball-bearings,which would maintain perfect wheel alignment at all positions.------------------------------------ The front of the car seems to be the challenge for retrofits.Modern supercars feature active suspension.The Bugatti Veyron comes to mind.I'd look at sucessful modern setups and see if they offer clues to technology you can safely borrow.
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Old 03-07-2009, 06:18 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Just one point more related to the practical side of lower the car.
A number of years ago I had some idiot following way too close to me in a car much lower than mine on the freeway at around 65 mph (the legal limit here) or so.

Ahead was a truck carrying rubbish from a building site I guess. Doors , window frames , sheet rock for interior panelling, bent guttering etc.

The inevitable happened and two brick concreted together fell of the back and landed on the roadway.
My car just went over the top and no problem.
The car following smacked right into them and there was some considerable damage done.
Anecdotal I know but worth keeping in mind we do need to live in the real world out there.

Pete.
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Old 03-07-2009, 09:09 PM   #19 (permalink)
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How about lowering the car static, then putting helper bags to raise the car when needed. Far less expensive and simpler to setup. Because you would only need one fill and one dump for all four air bags or shocks. imo
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Old 03-08-2009, 06:22 AM   #20 (permalink)
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How about lowering the car static, then putting helper bags to raise the car when needed. Far less expensive and simpler to setup. Because you would only need one fill and one dump for all four air bags or shocks. imo
That's probably the best way to go. Lower the car in such a way that the geometry and everything is cool, then jack it up only at low speeds, so handling won't be much of an issue.
Thanx everyone for the advice
- Adam

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