Warm air intake (wai) with controller all mechanical
 

Thire is much talk of a WAI (worm air intake) and how it could be done , but alas the idea seems to get stalled when the power loss /loss of FE (Fuel Economy) form uncontrolled IAT. To cold / hot is bad for economy. Cummins stats 1%power loss per 10°f above 60°f. EG , A 250HP diesel will produce 240HP with the same fuel demand as 250HP at 90°f IAT (Intake Air Temperature) this is measured at the intake manafuld. So hears my Idea for controlling the IAT with a WAI
The old low tech.answer is found in the carburetor /TBI (Throttle Body Injection) air cleaner.

A bi metal adjustable thermostatic Vac.(vacuum) Switch
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Air cleaner part number from my insperation a 1974Ford E100 Econoline .
Attachment 19999

The TBI is purely thermal mechanical on a '94 454
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I need 2 454 snorkels or build my own custom to handal the air demand of pulling heavy grades at down to -40°c/f . This is intinded to mix the air hot with cold. To keep it in the happy zone 32° f-60° f.
Will update when I get parts to work with.
Suggestions welcome

Gumby stay flexible.

Do I understand you correctly?
 

I italicized the words that confused me. I am honestly just trying to make sure I understand.

Sounds good to me! In theory, couldn't you use this technique to open vents on smooth wheel covers if you need to brake hard?

mechanical: me·chan·i·cal
məˈkanək(ə)l/
adjective
1)working or produced by machines or machinery.
"a mechanical device"
I mean non electric
warm: wôrm
adjective1) of or at a fairly or comfortably high temperature.
"a warm September evening"

As in not cold (down to -40°f/c is common winter for Montana, USA) and not hot as in Keep the IAT under 90° f @3% wasted fule. AIT between 60-90°f Costing Engine On through full throttle. Keeping the AiT =<ambient. It'll be summer MPGs in winter. Or hopefully an improvement.

From: frəm/Submit
preposition
1.
indicating the point in space at which a journey, motion, or action starts.

Too cold / hot: below 60°f above90°f

Intake manifold: In automotive engineering, an inlet manifold or intake manifold (in American English) is the part of an engine that supplies the fuel/air mixture to the cylinder.
There is a difference between inlet IAT, pre-turbo IAT,post-turbo/pre-Inter Cooler IAT, post-Inter Cooler AIT, and intake manifold the one closest to the intake valve is the one that counts.
Could you use bold in future as it is easier for me to see than italics with my eyes.
Hope this helps.
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Oil pan4 what were your setpoints open/close °f ?
Most of thease CARB air cleaners I've run across have been slow movers .5-3sec reaction times. Like a coolent thermostat when you test it on the stove. Is yours supper fast?

----I'm planning on using 2 snorkels or a custom hand fabricated system for the choking action youre speaking of under load. May end upsuing a damper door from an old A/C with this "brain".

Both of our engines are in excess of 350 cubic inches which is far exceeding the air flow capacity of a 2 inch diameter smooth tube ,and the corrugated flex hose is less. the hot-air side of this device is set up with1.25-2.5" most were 2" if memory serves.
My hot side needs as much flow as the cold. I am assuming that @-40° pulling Elk_Park_Pass I'll need it With a dT of 100°f.

Gumby stay flexible

The mechanical thermostatic valve is mechanical and regulates the air to around 90°F.
The electric portion only reverts it to cold air.
You don't have to use the cold air.
I thought about restoring the OE thermostatic intake but I wanted something a little different.
Main difference with mine is I was never trying to flow full air flow through the WAI.
If I need power the CAI is opening.
Also I am going to be running 11:1 compression.
I will end up using 2 snorkels too.

If it gets so cold there why not just convert to an after cooler and just turn off the after cooler when it's really cold letting the turbo heat the air? While drawing air from under the hood.
That is what I was going to do when I thought I was moving to Montana or Wyoming.
Have you read the 5.9 stationary non intercooled application manual?
They recommend running cold air down to 25°F to freezing, then drawing air from inside the enclosure if operated below 25.

My ambient temperatures range from -40°f/c,winter in Mt. to 120°f+ in Las Vegas,NV in summer.
The problem I have is when the turbo isn't producing heat. normally 55mph 1-3psi 450-650EGT.this took 15mi to open the thermostat this evening @~ 43°f
Both are called aftercoolers(after the turbo) and the mistakenly and accepted both are called Intercooler (means inbetween compound turbos) Cummins calls them both Charge air Coolers. Dodge called the water jacket an after cooler. And the air to air an Intercooler on the valve covers, and the name has stuck.
When I considered running a water jacket ,I lived 50mi north of Portland Oregon, from an early 1ST generation pre 91 . But decided agenst this as it would heat the air to 160-200°f in the water jacket IC. Resulting in a 10-14% loss of 16-24HP of 160HP rated ,and increased fuel use at all ambient temperatures. And add a severe heat load to the engine Coolent system wile climbing grades. Costing Neutral for 3-5mi continuous yealds 50-150°f EGT below idle and coolant20- 30°f below thermostat of 175°f at the bottom of 3 different grades from radiant block cooling.


---- this system is not a purely winter item. We got 2-4 "of snow and below freezing yesterday (4/29/16) spring has sprung but still gets cold . So it will need to add heat on downgrades/ light loading and pull heat on upgrades/ medium loading.

Thank you
As for wheel covers it would take some creative work and dynamic balancing. But yes.
This gave me an idea. Grill shutters could also be run , using Vac. accurated A/C door dash pots and the right thermostatic Vac . Switch, the larger diaphragm has more leverage and longer strokes available.
Gumby stay flexible

The air to water coolers run on their own coolant circuit.
Air to water coolers can cool almost as well as air to air.
Who runs the air to water cooler in with the engine coolant loop?
For my diesel I plan on putting an air to water cooler between the turbos and that coolant is going to be on it's own coolant loop.

These are somewhat plentiful at salvage yards.
I don't know all of the models had them, but I know some of the FWD naturally aspirated Volvos did.
Just a simple plunger type.
Volvo Airbox Thermostat Valve AFTERMARKET 103083 CAL-1266826

Some Chevy trucks with the 292cu.in. straight-6 were factory-fitted with a selectable cold and warm air intake.

Not another Warm air intake on a diesel thread :eek:

Diesels increase in fuel economy down to about -10C (even ancient low compression monsters). When you heat the air you just reject more combustion energy to the cooling system instead of moving you down the road. You also create more NOx

WAI in a Diesel is only somewhat useful during a cold starts, but that's why grid heaters are there...

Nissan pickups 1986.5-1989 also have a vacuum operated warm air valve IIRC.

Agreed grids @200A(2400W) draw , are thire to alow starting@-5°f/no block heater ,and -40°f using the block heater.but only works@ start-ups. And can take 1.5hr idle time to achieve130°f coolent temp(did an experiment and quit @1.5hr) or 15-20mi @65mph to open the thermostat with a 85% radator block. Plus the alternator is only130A and more like 50-60 at idle.
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It will be most usefull whin I'm coasting 7mi down a 6%grade @70-85mph in Neutral,yes @-40°f.my heater starts loosing heat coolent drops to 143°f EGT drops to 150°f by the bottom. With85% radator block. Auto so no CEO.
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So this will facilitate a selfatounamass controls all I have to do is sit back and enjoy the strong heater.instead of grabbing a jacket. Or forgetting to pull a cable till its too late.
Gumby Stay Flexible

This is why I'm suggesting to alow fresh-40°f air mix with preheated air. Not to hot and not to cold.
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What do you expect to happen to my FE win I droop 30°f below the thermostat closing temperature (165°f)3 times per 200mi round trip?
Gumby Stay Flexible

How would you regulate the WJCAC temperature@ my -40°f/c ambient temperature to keep it above freezing on a 7 mi cost down a 6%grade? With a heat exchanger? Cross flow from motor coolent to WJCAC coolent ? This could possibly slow the loss of heat. But would remove needed heat from the cab heater/motor.
Gumby Stay Flexible

.

The density difference between 80-90 degree F air and 10 degree F air is about 10.
Cold air is not going to stretch head bolts. Not in an Cummins engine any way. That sounds like a old wives tail.

I am subscribing to this. I have a 2007 5.9 Dodge Ram. There are lots of threads on other forums where they talk about warm air intakes. But one that controls the warm air intake is gonna be the best. I would like to see the final results with pictures and perhaps even a parts list. I am looking at doing something similar.

Well got to do some fact gathering yesterday
Ran my normal Helena to Anaconda Montana 100mi south leg test run got 23.18mpg . about 1.5 below average. 500lbs ballast stacked accrost the tail gate .(3200lbs front 3500lbs rear, 100lbs transfer off the front) on winter studded snow tires @65psi on all 4 corners. Aero Tonto on.

It was cold 7f above to start -2 at finish
80% grill block in place.

AIT mesured with a k type thermocouple in the intake horn(manifold , post turbo and Intercooler)

IAT was a max of 40°f on long grades
Average 20° f
Costing in neutral at up to 85mph 15°f

20-30° above ambant air temperature
Parked for 3hrs ,then headed home33mile drive at -10°f .
32° max
19°average

For reference
Coolent temperature is 155°f @30° ambant with no grill block..
175° @30°f ambant with 80% blocked