What would I gain/lose by getting an EV?
 

So maybe this thread can be a general thread for anyone to comment on their own thoughts and circumstances. I was just comparing the interior space and capacities of a Tesla with my current car. The results were interesting to me so I thought I'd share them:

• '13 Avalon HV, Tesla M-3, Tesla M-Y
• Front head room: 38", 39.6", 40.3"
• Rear head room: 38", 37.7", 39.4"
• Front shoulder room: 58", 56.3", 56.3"
• Rear shoulder room: 57", 54", 54"
• Front hip room: 55", 53.4", 53.8"
• Rear hip room: 55", 52.4", 50.6"
• Front leg room: 42.1", 42.7" 41.8"
• Rear leg room: 39.2", 35.2", 40.5"
• Cargo capacity: 14CF, 44CF, 97CF
• Seating capacity: 5, 5, 5
• Weight capacity: 1,115lbs, 921lbs, 886lbs
• Towing capacity: N/R*, N/R, N/R
• Drives available: FWD, RWD/AWD, RWD/AWD

*The non-hybrid Avalon is rated for 100lbs tongue and 1,000lbs tow.

Some thoughts:

My car, the Avalon, has the smallest trunk, but has the most weight carrying capacity. Yet the Tesla Model Y has the biggest cargo capacity, but the least weight carrying capacity. Seems a bit ironic to me.

For an American family of me, my wife and two teenaged boys, it seems we could easily surpass the weight rating for the Model Y and probably the Model 3, which I'm not sure how that really affects things in the real world ([cringe] [memories of my dad breaking an axle from overloading the pickup]).

None are rated for a trailer, but I suppose you could put one on anyone of them. I did on my Avalon and haven't had any issues, although the trailer is rated for 55mph max, which is what I do and should help reduce wear on the car than going 75mph with a trailer. I also just take it easy in general when pulling a trailer. I need to see if people are putting trailers on their Model 3's and Y's though.

Overloading a car is common and suspension upgrades are also moderately common. Breaking a car axle due to full occupancy is unheard of but you could slowly wear bushings or overload tires.

If you could find your way to test drive a Tesla with your family the answer would be clear

Some cars when overloaded you would hardly know until you hit a big bump
Others the handling is immediately different
A few cars (my Volt) had tires as the limiting factor on weight so adding PSI was prudent since blowouts on OEM was already very common.

No good answer unless someone here already owns the specimen with a large enough number of passengers to comment

Not possible to comment on gain/loss without knowing specific details of your requirements.

Generally, EVs cost more upfront, have many drawbacks associated with the battery, but have the benefit of refueling from home at a lower cost per mile. You might lose some cargo space or payload. Theoretically you gain more reliability and less maintenance.

You've owned an EV, so you'd be positioned well to answer your own question.

....or a friend with a stockpile of sand bags?

I was just brain storming for the fun of it really.

From what I can tell, IF I were to get an EV it would either need a pretty good range (200 miles might work, 300 would be better) or would have to be strictly a second car. As a second car it would have to be cheap (like $5,000 or less). If it were a main or only car I don't think I'd pay more than $15,000 for it total.

Roomwise, it would be nice to have a minivan, but a larger sedan/station wagon/crossover (I don't like crossovers, but...) would do, like the Avalon I have now.

So obviously until there are cheaper used Teslas or I go get a $5,000 Leaf I'm not getting an EV any time soon.

Who knows how low the Bolt EV prices will go once the 7 month and counting stop-sale is lifted, especially if we end up seeing a $12,500 EV tax credit. Initially I was anticipating prices to plummet to $10k, but it may go lower. It has a 250 mile range.

Given those criteria, I'd say a Prius Prime might be an ideal vehicle. 25 miles of EV range, lots of utility, and excellent MPGs. I would assume used ones could be had for $15k or less once normal pricing returns.

On that basis, I'd want an ellipsoid motorhome 32ft long with a ($2-3K) Arcimoto Platform 2 in a garage under the floorboard.

As far as I can tell the stop sale has lifted, not completely public knowledge but the fix for 17/18 has been out

Sadly prices are higher than ever

But new bolts are $20,000 if you meet the sales discount requirements

If the $12.500 becomes retroactive this FY you are talking an $7500 new car.


The procedure for covering all the recalled vehicles (all '17 and '18 + subset of '19) is up at

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/202...0V701-3618.pdf

. '17 and '18 final procedure didn't come out until a few days ago and as usual, there's a lag before appearing at NHTSA.
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/202...0V701-3618.pdf

recalls grew from 29 to 34 associated docs sometime yesterday

https://gm-techlink.com/?p=14834

explains the new DTC and diagnostics.

If the remedy has been released for 17/18, it was within the past couple days. The '19 model year had the remedy available a month ago. Inventory hasn't increased so far, in fact it's the lowest ever.

My guess is they are backlogged on applying the remedy and prepping for sale. GM pays dealerships to mothball the cars during the stop sale. It's unclear how long GM is willing to make payments to mothball the inventory.

I expect a flood of cars in the coming months, hopefully coinciding with declining used car prices.

The new, larger version of the Bolt might be good for you. If it comes down in price. Can't recall the name of the model right now.