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Old 02-07-2013, 09:55 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I pay about $300 per year for full coverage insurance, another $300 for vehicle up keep, around $700 in fuel, $75 for license plate renewal and drive 9,000 miles per year or or about $0.15 per mile in my Civic VX.

My Commuti-car I'm not sure how to calculate upkeep on it because I've done some upgrades that should last another 30+ years, but if I subtract the fair market value from total spent on it I've spent about $0.50 per mile, a lot of those upgrades are going to extend the season that I can drive it, things like heat and defrost! so I'll be driving it as soon as the roads are no longer covered with ice and snow, others make it use less electricity like the solid state battery charger that also charges faster and the solid state speed controller that gives better control of the motor and my speed without using a resister or stressing the batteries as hard as the contactors did.
When I bought a new set of batteries I figured my long term battery cost per mile at around 10 cents per mile but so far they are in good enough shape that it's going to cost me less then that, electricity is about 2 cents per mile, insurance is $140 per year, it has collector plates that never expire and I spend about $2 per year on distilled water for the batteries.

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Old 03-02-2013, 02:10 PM   #12 (permalink)
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My fuel costs per mile is $0.14 at $4.00 a gallon and total costs (including fuel) is $~0.50
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Old 03-04-2013, 04:54 PM   #13 (permalink)
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In direct costs attributable to the car I'm under $0.14 cents per mile.

My fuel log here shows $0.13 per mile in fuel. Every few thousand miles I blow $14 ($9.56 if I hypermile the filter) for an oil change. Last year I needed a $30 headlight switch. Three years ago I spent $39 on a wastegate control solenoid but haven't had it put in- the mere threat of replacement keeps the original in line. A front brake job went up to $500 because I needed both front calipers, but those three fixes still add less than 0.3 cents per mile and the oil changes less than half a cent. Tires are consumables and have their own cost per mile. I've got slightly oversized LRRs to help the car's numbers, but a Fuel Max is going to last as long as it's going to last no matter what you put it on, as will a Wal-Mart special. Brakes? I've got a manual transmission. I've replaced the fronts three times and the rears probably once. Like the tires, they need replacing as often as you want them to.

Taxes, insurance and other fees I don't count because they're fixed costs of ownership and stay the same if I do a million miles a year or just park it. Unless you have something outrageous that insurance companies hate and needs parts that are hard to come by, these costs are just part of owning any car at all. You can spend more on really good insurance or you can spend more for leather seats and a great stereo- those are costs you choose to pay no matter how much you're driving. And once you've paid for the stereo, it's free!
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Originally Posted by sheepdog44 View Post
Transmission type Efficiency
Manual neutral engine off.100% @MPG <----- Fun Fact.
Manual 1:1 gear ratio .......98%
CVT belt ............................88%
Automatic .........................86%

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2000neon (03-05-2013)
Old 03-05-2013, 07:26 AM   #14 (permalink)
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For fuel alone:

15-cpm, solo

25-cpm, towing 35' travel trailer

predicated on $4/gl diesel

As always, keeping miles driven to a minimum and then driving those miles quite carefully is key to lowest overall cost as longest vehicle life (with greatest reliability) is true economy.

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2000neon (03-05-2013)
Old 03-05-2013, 01:24 PM   #15 (permalink)
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My VW has a fuel cost of 7˘/mile I have not been able to move it lower in the last two years. My other vehicles are close to twice that.

Once you include everything probably it costs 30˘/mile.

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