Wiper motor = adjustable grill block motor?
I just removed my rear wiper assembly for aerodynamic purposes. The motor that came out of it is pretty durable and has plenty of torque. Could this be used for an adjustable grill block?
I don't know how it actually works, or if there is a simple way to make it adjustable, or somehow switch it to full left or full right at will. |
At least it will be closed half the time. :-)
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Usual wiper motors I saw are just a rotary motor with some levers that turns a single rotational motion into the back and forth motion. Yet you could still maintain the levers - using a potentiometer to determine the position... I would think a relay to turn it on/off, some way to turn the relay off when it's in a given position (I forget my electronics, just a way to compare the voltage from the potentiometer to some preset start and stop figures, when it goes above, or drops below something it shuts the relay off), and a pushbutton switch to force it to ignore the previous circuit - you'd just hold it for like 1/3 of a second or something to start it moving, and it should auto shut off when it finishes a stroke for instance. It's that or have another switch in each position so when it makes contact it does the same though the switches might wear out faster than the potentiometer being flicked open/closed many times per day. (assuming based on the need for cooling this would be the norm)
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You would have better luck with a linear actuator. You could even turn your wiper motor into one by putting threaded rod on the shaft and then putting a nut on your grille block. Run it forward and reverse to open and close it.:thumbup:
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Or get a cheap door-lock actuator instead :D
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A door lock actuator might work well with the output shaft coupled to a threaded rod as IsaacCarlson suggested. Normally the actuator throws its full length and then stops, but the threaded rod plus a momentary contact switch might give the control you need. |
What about R/C model equipment? Lots of controllable and switchable stuff on low voltage feed there, never mind that the car we want it for is scale 1/1.
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The wiper motors that I have the most experience with are out of older aircooled Porsches. They have microswitches built into the output linkage that tells the motor where the "park" position is. If the microswitch gets closed and the wiper stalk is in the "do not run" position, the relay running the motor gets switched off. If either of those things is not true, the relay keeps sending power to the motor. -soD |
:eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:
I played with one from a vw rabbit of the 80s to make a sex machine. The polarity was reversed for slow vs fast mode as the brushes were offset. The crank just spun in circles and the levers made the wipers worked. If you used a draw slide with a pivot point to the crank you got a rod that goes in and out and can attach your favorite adult toy to. :D Sheep, are you doing it right? Myself, JimE and a few others have like 99% of our grills blocked off on our insights and heat isnt an issue. Running the ac I see 184 degrees where as the coolant relay doesnt click til 202 degrees F. Without ac I see 177-179 degrees. I like the door lock solonoid idea. Make 2 pieces of coloroplast with slots that are misaligned. This way in one orientation a block is achieved. Then within a half or inch movement the slots like you and its OPEN. Mount this to the grill or behind the grill depending on if you are trying to help aero or cooling and then rig up a switch or something to the solenoid. The other idea is to use a servo and radio from a rc car that allows minute adjustments in movement and use it to slowly open or close something nad to what degree. Quote:
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Power Antenna? I have one laying around for my Grand Marquis. It's goes back and forth.
Just saying... -ryan s. |
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The reciprocation is achieved in the linkage. If you search for "4 bar linkage" or similar you will be able to see how they work. How about looking at the motor and linkage from a car with pop up headlights? Even better if it's one with just eyelids - rare of course but there's going to be few buyers for those parts too. For a grille block in general I think a 2 or 3 flap one, horizontal flaps, with each flap either fully open or closed, opening in stages, would work well. The open flap should meet up with a vane immediately behind it to form a duct to the radiator core. I think part opened vanes are going to trip the air and cause drag. 2 or 3 discrete ducts, fully open or closed, should be better. Maybe even add a turning vane to encourage the airflow down and out of the engine bay on the other side of the radiator. |
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50-80 lbs? Is your grill block made of cast iron? :eek:
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Door solenoids are momentary, aren't they? You'd have to decide to fail open or closed. Why not a manual choke cable 4' long? |
how about a power window motor it is designed to move up and down and lift heavy load (for grill block)
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You could use a windshield motor to do what you wanted. You would build the linkage just the same as it is for controlling one wiper, the only difference is you would need to extend the rod that is connected to the block.
Connect the motor and linkage to the block, get two momentary switches. Place the switches where the linkage will press the button only when it is fully open or fully closed. It will be easier if the switches are normally closed. Run the momentary switches to a three way switch (might have to use relays to handle the power). So now when you press the switch to open the motor will move till you release the switch or till the linkage presses the button cutting power to the switch. Now only the other direction of the 3way switch has power allowing you to close it. I hope this makes sense. |
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