Would this EV setup work?
 

I've recently acquired an unfinished kit car project that i'm hoping to complete using EV components.

The car is RWD and i was hoping to either just use direct drive or get a gear reducer of some sort. I'm looking for a pretty decent power output.

I was thinking of using the following components but i want to check with some people that have more knowledge to see if this system would actually work.

Motor - Netgain Warp 11HV or Kostov K13 Direct Drive

Controller - Soliton 1

Batteries - 72x Sinopoly 200AH LiFePO4 3C in series - 230.4Vx200AH=46Kwh

Charger - Eltek 67.120.0 150-260V 10 Amp

BMS - Orion 72 Cell 1000A

Car should way about 1200kg and is somewhat aerodynamic, I'm hoping to get plus 100mph and a 0-60 time of less than 6 seconds with a range above 130 miles.

Am i correct in thinking that because the batteries are 3C and 200AH they will produce 600A which multiplies with the voltage to give power output? 600A*230.4V = 138.24KW

Thanks

Lithium iron phosphate can do more like 7C.
I have been using lithium iron phosphate batteries since 2010 and found that they suffer from really bad cold numbing and can be damaged if charged while cell temperature is 20 degrees F or colder.

The warp 11 motor is most efficient around 5,000 to 6,000 RPM if I remember correctly. If you try to run it too slow at cruising speed it will cook. So unless you have a rear diff with a 5:1 or 6:1 ratio direct drive may not be a good option.
All that comes down to speed, tire size and gear ratios.

Soliton controller would be a bad choice. They sold the business and repairs are very expensive, IF you can get the tech that made these, to do anything. They are no longer making these controllers.

Check out diyelectriccar.com regarding Soliton and other information.

The advice I got from Netgain was to run the Warp 11 like a 8 cylinder engine - 2500 - 3500 rpm. Nothing above 5000 as 5500 is 'redline' for the warp 11. I don't remember the test speed - 7000 maybe? - but the balancing putty used on the rotor is not rated for more than 5500.

That seemed like a silly restriction, but it's what I was told.

I was hoping to run at 5000 to keep the amps down and cool as much as possible. That didn't work out.

The calcs I did for my S10 (abandoned project) was about 1000 rpm on a 15 inch tire = 60 mph. So using those numbers 3500 rpm -> 1000 rpm would require 3.5:1 reduction between your motor and the wheel. The differential in your rear wheel drive likely is not that high, so another gearbox would be added between the motor and drive shaft .. I think. There was a guy in Surprise, AZ - Mitchell Yow - that had a single-speed reduction gearbox from 0.9:1 -> 1.5:1 for about $3000, but he included whatever couplers you needed to go from your motor to his gearbox, and from his gearbox to your drive shaft. I have not checked his site for a while. It's here https://www.torquetrends.com/ev-torquepack

Agree with HaroldInCR - Solition may not be the best choice.

I'd go with Paul Holme's IGBT DC Controller. 1200+ amps at up to 400 VDC. I am running one, just have not got the rest of the car back in shape to be a car. So I have no on-road experience. Just testing so far.

https://pandspowerelectronics.ecwid....=0&sort=normal

comments: if you think the tech support for the Sol is bad, just wait for the kostov tech support.

FWIW run the warp like a chevy 350, sweet spot is around 3500 rpm redline is 5000 because the armature tends to unwind at the commutator throwing stuff everywhere. they will turn faster but need better balancing, comm banding, forced cooling and wont make as much HP due to back EMF making the applied voltage higher than what the gaps in the comm will tolerate, AKA ZORCH. so you advance the brushes about 7-10 degrees, but that buggers up reversing and any regen you might hope to get, not that they regen for poop.

i also advocate recycled Volt packs bullet proof as can be, best bang for the buck.

How cold does it get there?

I guess USDA climate zone 4 or 5. you're colder and hotter.

You left out the important part — what kit? :) And define "a pretty decent power output".