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would you trust those led lights
would you trust those led lights
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If they are not quality LED like Cree I would pass unless you want to gamble. At that price it might be worth it. You aren't going to get the specs they post with them being manufactured quality (or lack there of) controlled in China.
They aren't going to be as bright as your old bulb from what I have seen. Maybe add a second or third set of bolt on driving lights form harbor freight or somewhere with a bulb swap for when you need the extra light. |
If you replace H1/H4/H7 or any halogen bulb with a led, you will get
A) miniscule amount of light or/and B) very short life time of the led There just isn't a room in a normal car headlamp made for halogens to fit a sufficient cooling heatsink for a +1000 lumen led (normal H7 gives 1300-1600 lm). |
If you want a bulb that consumes less watts, but still puts out a safe amount of light, HID or the 'eco' halogen bulbs are your best route. HID, to do it right, involves a new reflector, otherwise you'll blind oncoming traffic; those Eco bulbs are simple bulb swap but they have a reduced lifespan than regular bulbs.
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Hell no. Especially anything saying "As the good quality of our products, it's almost less than 1% defective rate.We do want long business,not once business!So we will keep the best quality for you!"
LED technology is fine for taillights and things that need not be exceptionally bright while having a long life. It's not "there" for any other purpose yet. It will be soon but it's not there yet. China will not have the cutting edge technology. |
gurss you didnt 'search'?
justt had a forum on these last week....... Headlamp housings are built SPECIFICLY for for a certain type of bulb. A halogen bulb only works in a headlamp designed for a halogen bulb. just becuase the led lamp 'fits' doesnot mean it works correctly here is a completely reaseached thread I wrote on the HIP planet site. HID plug n play fails govt test The basic principle is: while the bases might fit, the bulb can not duplicate the other type of bulb. Led IS NOT halogen Halogen is not hid led is not Hid But if you really want to throw away your money......paypal me. Pros: I get rich, you have the same light you have now (not worse), you dont have an accident for driving w/ bulb that are ILLEGAL and dont provide any light. Cons: I get rich...... |
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the FACT is simple.
Regardless of the quality of a bulb, regardless if it 'fits' physically. It can not (by natural law of the light spectrum) work in a headlamp designed for another type of bulb. Much like 'lowering springs', 22 rims and turbonators, there will always be someone selling to the uninformed consumer a product that does not work......even though it 'fits'. |
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One can make an LED light work with modification, I know because I have retrofit HID projectors/bulbs from a newer car into my older car. THE LIGHT WORKS the same as in the factory car the bulbs and projectors came from. There are cars from the factory ( Simply illuminating: Cadillac introduces its first all-LED headlight system | MLive.com ) that have LEDs I am sure these could be retro fit as well. There also many other bolt on LED options out in the form of fog lights and other auxiliary lights that come with their own housings. Ask a rally driver if those work or not. |
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I'll be glad to discuss AUXILLARY lighting in another thread. :thumbup: |
Ok just so you agree that it can work and it can be done.
Oh and in a projector the HID and Halogen can interchange and put the hot spot in the same place. There are projectors from the factory that had both, can't tell if you knew that or not from your post. If you read through some more posts at hidplanet there is some more info about a few of these projectors if you want some more info on it. |
These conversion leds have developed better but is there already someone using these like these H7?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q4f0eSmOn4g |
I have these '50W' H11 LED lights in my fog lights.
http://miniimg3.rightinthebox.com/im...6578105713.jpg I use them as DRL's. They are not really 50W. They don't even give as much light as a 50W halogen H11 lamp would, though they come close. They consume maybe 5W each. Compared to the 55W halogens I had in my fog lights they are much less focused. Less light ahead, much more stray light. That was just what I expected. EDIT: this means of course that these LEDs are useless as fog lights. They emit light from several points way apart from each other. They are plainly impossible to use as low or high beams. A LED low or high beam lamp would need to have all the light come from one single spot placed at and no larger than the position of the halogen glow spiral or HID spark chamber. It is unlikely that there will ever be a LED that produces so much light from such a tiny area. any time soon. OEM LED low/high beams use several LEDs each with their own lense or reflector. As I swapped my (projector, HID approved) low beam halogens for HIDs I found that once running the lows adding the fogs was hardly noticeable. I would never run my fog lights in fog without low beams on too so they were a bit dysfunctional. Now, with the LEDs they are fine for DRL's. |
That was funny!
The guy spends the entire time saying 'the led pictures are better in real life. My camera doesn't really show how well the led works'!!! Or to translate: ' the scangauge doesn't really show the correct mileage ...'! |
If you simply want more light try these. phillips H7 x-treme vision. They DO give more light. Own experiance. and top of the line halogen with good lifespan (can differ on some types. Had a citroen that chewed them up afther 10.000km. And in my polo they lasted 50.000km). not cheap but worth your money
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As I look at the still picture comparison of the video that vekke posted, several things jump out.
1. The snow banks on the side w/led are toooooo bright. That is caused by glare (bad) and misdirected light (bad). The light rays are incorrectly bouncing inside the lens and not going where they are supposed to go. So your eyes are drawn to the space immediately infront oft the car and not down the road. 2. immediately infront of the car, the light is SOOOO bright that the white glare washes out the detail of the road. This is bad. 2. the distance light ends shorter and the road actually goes black BEFORE the silver sign dot at the end of the road. 3. PROPERLY designed housings w/ the CORRECT light source, project the light down the road. This keeps your night vision properly focused & adjusted for distance. The led is causing (incorrectly) your eyes to refocus on the space in front of the car, destroying your distant vision. Why is distant vision important.....BECAUSE THE CAR IS MOVING! 4. Because your eye is 'distracted' by the up close brightness, your eye muscles get tired quicker and driving no is unsafe. 5. The glare and brightness created by the incorrect bulb is now a visual distraction to the oncoming traffic. Again, I cant repeat this enough. 1. 'light' has a spectrum, like a 1-10 scale. Each light source creates a different light hot spot. 2. Housings (the chrome thing that reflects the light source) are designed SPECIFICLY for the light source hat comes in it. 3. The light assembly AND the produced light are regulated to meet certain design characteristics. Unless the company making the alternative bulb has proof that the bulbs light passes the govt test, then it is NOT a correct replacement. |
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Retro modding, retro fitting, retro: taking the ENTIRE lighting assembly (from a newer car) and 'modifing' the entire assembly so it installs in an older car. Leaving the proper light source in the proper housing. Plug n play: installing inncorect light sources that 'fit' into an existing lens designed for another type of light source. Light source: 1. hid, 2. led, 3. halogen Each have a diferent light spectrum and hot spot and are not enterchangeable despite 'fitting' at the base. btw, if have posted at hidplanet in the past |
Why does the set pictured in the first link come with ballasts? LEDs don't run on thousands of volts like HID does, so it would be unnecessary.
That said, I just replaced my halogens with a cheap $40 HID kit on Amazon, and I'm very happy with the results so far. The housing was already a projector style, so the beam is very well controlled, and nobody has flashed me for blinding them. I measured the energy use at 40 watts, which only saves me 15 watts, but it still gives me much more light. |
led headlights
Those led lights look much better to me in the video, however way too expensive at 160 bucks.
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. But just so I'm clear. HIDS cost how much in lost mpg? Because my Infiniti Q45 was epa 22 hwy and I got 32 mpg hwy with minimal moods RUNNING factory HIDs.***************** Quote:
I am also confused. Above you say that HIDs run on 'thousands of volts' yet....as if by magic :eek: ......your's run 'at 40 watts, which only saved me 15 watts.' ?????????? 1000 - 40 = 9960 saved watts........... :o |
led lights
The two most important criteria for full spectrum lighting are the CRI (color rendering index), and the color temperature rating, measured in Kelvin degrees. The CRI rating goes from 1 to 100, the closer to 100, the more true the colors. A Kelvin rating of 5000 or higher produces more lumens (light registered by the rods of the human eye) and controls pupil size. Noon sunlight is generally around 5600 Kelvin, and 5000 Kelvin or higher light gives the appearance of substantially more light.
Halogen bulbs ~ 3200 K and 100 CRI LED lights ~ 6000 K (posted by RedDevil) and 70 to 90+ CRI As the lights posted by RedDevil are 6000 K, I would imagine their CRI is close to 100 as well. I've been using LED lights in my home for years, used full spectrum before that, and the LED lights are better. |
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But........ And this is REALLY important. The housing used to reflect the light (the shiny chrome thing) in a home IS NOT regulated by the federal government for proper refraction. THe auto headlamp is. So two things are happening. 1. THe hot spot created by the different light sources are different AND in different spots on the bulb. 2. this is why 'more' light is not necessarily better for a car headlamp. |
http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...rt1_Page_1.jpg
if you notice in this report done by the government, 'more light' can be 20 times more than allowed by law at a particular point in front of the car. http://i678.photobucket.com/albums/v...ers_Page_1.jpg |
Lumen per watt as related to color temperature depends on which technology
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It is directly related to the color a black object would appear to have when heated to that specific temperature; the hotter the more the color will shift from red through the spectrum to purple.. Halogens at maybe 2800 K appear yellowish. My 5000K HIDs appear bright white. The 6000K LEDs appear pale white with a hint of blue. Some 7500K LEDs I have lying around appear purplish white. 12000K HIDs are full purple. And illegal as headlights. Now HIDS have a natural color temp of around 6400K, but the color can be altered by adding certain salts or gases. As it happens, lowering the color temp enhances the lumen per watt in HIDs; as it takes slightly less energy to release a photon in the lower (reddish) region of the spectrum than in the higher region. White LEDs are actually blue LEDs covered with fluorescent material that converts some of the photons to a lower spectral value. (that's why they are yellowish or orange when off and white when turned on. The yellow/orange is the fluorescent material. Scrape it off then you have blue LEDs.) A lower color temp requires a thicker layer of fluorescent material. Inevitably some light gets lost. So LEDS lose lumen per watt if the color needs to be warmer. As for halogen the color temperature is caused by heat; the heating of the coil. Most of the energy is lost to heat (infrared radiation) so the higher up the spectrum, the more effective they become. Sadly, they also will fail quicker. And the efficiency in lumen per watt will not even come close to either HIDs or LEDs. Edit: see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_temperature And the K stands for Kelvin; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kelvin |
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Or are you going to tell me that you are running one amp? |
I'm with mcrews, generally—excepting the maths.
I put $55 'Cree-like' LEDs in my Hella H-4 reflectors. I get more light with less power but the low-beam pattern is nowhere as sophisticated as the Hella halogens. Instead of the flat-topped half-circular low beam it's circular. I angled them down a little, because I hate driver's that don't dim their lights on approach (most people nowadays). Consequently there is more light but it isn't thrown down the road any farther. internal fans are necessary and interfere with the rubber boot. |
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While it might take 10 years for me to recoup the cost in fuel, I benefit from higher bulb life hours, better lighting, and longer EV run time. Quote:
I'll agree with you that more is not always better, and that some reflectors are not good at distributing HID light properly. Today I just removed the HID kit in the Camry that has a reflector designed for a halogen. The light, while brighter, is cast all over the place and annoy oncoming drivers. Because it's cast everywhere, it doesn't improve driving visibility enough to justify their use. Quote:
Voltage can be increased at the loss of amps through a transformer, which is what the HID ballast does. HIDs require an initial 25,000 volts to ignite, and afterwards requires 80 volts. For the first fraction of a second, the wattage does spike, but quickly settles down to about 40 watts. Halogen lamps also have a spike in wattage when first started, but it isn't quite as dramatic as HID. |
HIDs have a continuous discharge through ionized gas, not unlike CFL tubes.
Just like CFL you need a high voltage spark to get the gas inside the chamber ionized. Once that is done the gas conducts electricity well and only 9 Volt is needed to keep it burning. The ballasts produce the spark to get the HIDs light up and regulate the voltage to whatever the HID needs when it is lit. Watts are volts times amps. A 55 Watt lamp running at 12 Volt draws about 4.5 Ampere. A 35 Watt HID draws just under 4 Ampere at 9 Volt. During startup it will have a very short jolt at several thousand Volt, but at that voltage it will only draw milliAmps. Once the current starts flowing the voltage drops. If the ballast just roams off the excess voltage (using a 35W HID at 9V) it will draw 4 amps at 12 Volt, wasting 12 Watt to heat, so the net gain of using HIDs would be minimal compared to halogens: 48 Watt instead of 55. Ballasts that use a DC-DC converter could draw as little as 38 Watt, assuming 92% efficiency. |
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Is hacking your Toyota's filler neck to let the nozzle from a diesel pump fit in it a "diesel conversion?" No, you'd say. Fat Charlie, you're just talking craziness! Saying "I can make it fit" and figuring out how to run power to it isn't doing the job right. You wouldn't really put one of these in your taillight just because it fits and can receive power, would you? http://cdn3.volusion.com/7cgsc.ch57u...SMD-S30W-2.jpg |
What an interesting lump of information I just read through.
To summarize, LED headlights are a no-go right now. :) |
Unless it came from the factory that way, yes.
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