https://ecomodder.com/mediawiki/index.php?title=Special:NewPages&feed=atom&hideredirs=1&limit=50&offset=&namespace=0&username=&tagfilter=EcoModder Forum Wiki - New pages [en]2024-03-29T00:20:32ZFrom EcoModder Forum WikiMediaWiki 1.27.4https://ecomodder.com/wiki/Open_ReVolt_Rev2C_Mouser_BOM_Cut/Paste_ImportOpen ReVolt Rev2C Mouser BOM Cut/Paste Import2018-07-18T19:49:17Z<p>MetroMPG: Created page with "{{Open ReVolt Header}} This list was current as of 1/31/12. It's an easy way to load all of the parts into Mouser. In Mouser, go to 'Services and Tools'/BOM Import Tool. Be..."</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Open ReVolt Header}}<br />
<br />
This list was current as of 1/31/12. It's an easy way to load all of the parts into Mouser. In Mouser, go to 'Services and Tools'/BOM Import Tool. Below the two button options is the 'Part List Uploader'. Just copy and paste the list below and you're set.<br />
<br />
<br />
EEU-FC1E471|1<br />
EEU-FC1E101S|1<br />
UPW1E100MDD|1<br />
K104K15X7RF5TH5|13<br />
RPER71H223K2K1A03B|2<br />
RPE5C1H150J2P1Z03B|2<br />
FK26X7R1C475K|5<br />
TRS202ECN|1<br />
STTH1R02QRL|1<br />
511-P6KE18A|2<br />
512-1N4148TR|1<br />
SSL-LX5093LGD|1<br />
SSL-LX5093LYD|1<br />
512-1N5237B|1<br />
821-1N5818|2<br />
22-05-3031|1<br />
90131-0123|1<br />
22-01-3047|1<br />
22-01-3037|1<br />
08-50-0114|7<br />
RN102-1-02|1<br />
FQPF27P06|1<br />
2N3904TFR|1<br />
2N3906TFR|1<br />
294-1.0-RC|1<br />
MF1/4DC1002F|2<br />
MF1/4DC7500F|1<br />
MF1/4DC3300F|2<br />
MF1/4DC2200F|1<br />
MF1/4DC3001F|2<br />
MF1/4DC4701F|9<br />
MF1/4DC2002F|1<br />
MF1/4DC3741F|1<br />
MF1/4DC1001F|9<br />
MF1/4DC2001F|2<br />
271-22-RC|10<br />
B57862S103F40|1<br />
512-LM7805CT|1<br />
595-LM4040D25ILP|1<br />
TLP222G (F)|1<br />
EC4A02H|1<br />
ATMEGA168-20PU|1<br />
511-M74HC00|1<br />
HCPL-4504-000E|1<br />
LM393NG|1<br />
HCPL-817-000E|1<br />
3362P-1-501LF|1<br />
FOXLF160-20|1</div>MetroMPGhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Car_mod_templateCar mod template2018-07-09T22:23:19Z<p>Daox: Created page with "Back to main mod page This is a sample picture '''Introduction'''<br> ''Information required:'' W..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:Wrench-diag.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|This is a sample picture]]<br />
'''Introduction'''<br><br />
''Information required:'' What is the mod all about?<br><br />
<br />
== Instructions for mod ==<br />
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for<br><br />
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars<br><br />
<br />
== User experiences ==<br />
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table&lt;br><br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1<br />
|+ User data<br />
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link<br />
|-<br />
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Problems / Consequences of mod ==<br />
''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,<br />
<br />
== References ==<br />
=== Forum thread links ===<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/making-use-wiki-modification-hypermiling-info-14248.html Wiki thread]<br />
<br />
=== External links ===<br />
[http://ecomodder.com This is the ecomodder link]</div>Daoxhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/HOW_I_made_a_grill_block_PageHOW I made a grill block Page2018-07-09T22:22:55Z<p>Daox: Created page with "http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Grill_block_%28upper_only%29 Back to main grill block page Here is what I did to make a nice looking grill block. I had made an upper..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Grill_block_%28upper_only%29 Back to main grill block page]]<br />
<br />
Here is what I did to make a nice looking grill block. I had made an upper (and lower) grill block last fall as it started getting cold but I did not like how the colorplast looked so I remade it out of steal. <br />
<br />
Here is what mine from last winter looked like:<br />
[[Image:Grill last winter.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Not a bad grill block but I did not like having the logo open (it stuck out too far to go over though). It came off in about 3 seconds (nice pop with a screwdriver).<br />
[[Image:No grill block.jpg]]<br />
<br />
First thing I did was to make a cardboard template. You can also start with paper, but my shape was not that complex so I went with cardboard. I took an old box and cut it to the height I wanted (top to bottom), then I taped it up on the car. Next I marked the rough edge (out about 1/2 an inch to give me room to fine tune the edge). Once that was done I marked the edge with a pencil and cut the exact edge I wanted. Repeat on the other side. I waited to do the other side so if I screwed up my cut I could just move the cardboard over and inch and try over.<br />
[[Image:Grill cardboard.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Next place your template on your grill block material. I used some galvanized steel (same as I used for my wheel skirts). If sheet steel is not handy try colorplast. <br />
[[Image:On sheet steel.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Trace your template onto the grill block material (if using metal mark the shape and make a 3/8" larger line). Cut the line (use the outer one with metal). With colorplast skip this next step.<br />
<br />
If using sheet metal bend along the traced line (inner one). Use vice grips to bend on the line up past a right angle. Then hammer over the tabs (pound it flat).<br />
[[Image:Bent grill.jpg]]<br />
<br />
This will make the edge rounded and not sharp (does not scratch paint or cut your hand when reaching for the hood release).<br />
<br />
Now check your fit on the car:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Grill test.jpg]]<br />
<br />
If you like the results you can attach it (if not go back and fix it). I used self tapping sheet screws to hold mine on (screwed into the holes that were filled in on the back).<br />
Other ways of attachment that worked for me:<br />
Zip ties, nice for testing, not so good of looks.<br />
Flat headed bolts (see the first picture).<br />
[[Image:Screwed in.jpg]]<br />
<br />
After painting (and 400 miles of driving):<br />
[[Image:Grill_block.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
== Test Data ==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Grill block data.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:Grill block data 2.jpg]]</div>Daoxhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Open_ReVolt/TestingOpen ReVolt/Testing2018-07-09T22:22:35Z<p>MetroMPG: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Open ReVolt Header}}<br />
<br />
Jyanof's testing page (now defunct, see [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/revolt-open-source-dc-controller-beta-testing-9325.html this thread] instead)</div>Daoxhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Soulster_grill_block_dataSoulster grill block data2018-07-09T22:22:16Z<p>Daox: Created page with "http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Grill_block_partial_or_full#Forum_thread_links Back to Grill Block page Here is the data and some pictures of the mod. Graph: Imag..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Grill_block_partial_or_full#Forum_thread_links Back to Grill Block page]]<br />
<br />
Here is the data and some pictures of the mod.<br />
<br />
Graph:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Upper grill block graph.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Data:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Upper grill block data.jpg]]<br />
<br />
The data is in a nice tight group! The change is only .35 MPG but the standard deviation is only .31. This makes for a reliable test result. <br />
<br />
Why this is lower than the others:<br />
Smaller opening to start with so less aero loss to begin with. <br />
<br />
Before:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Soul grill block 1.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Test fit:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Soul grill block2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
All done:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Soul grill block3.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Thread with more information:<br />
<br />
[[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/soul-help-grill-block-14482.html#post192976 Soul Help (Grill block)]]</div>Daoxhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Weight_effect_on_efficiency_due_to_brakingWeight effect on efficiency due to braking2018-07-09T22:21:53Z<p>Daox: Created page with "To return to the main simulations page<br> Simulation and calculations<br> Weight reduction effect on fuel usage due to braking can be calcula..."</p>
<hr />
<div>To return to the main simulations page<br><br />
[[Simulation_and_calculations|Simulation and calculations]]<br><br />
<br />
Weight reduction effect on fuel usage due to braking can be calculated using the following methods and equations.<br />
<br />
The effect of weight on fuel efficiency is largely caused by braking which converts all of the inertial energy into heat in the brake pads. A very heavy car that accelerates up to 55mph and coasts down to 0 mph will use almost the same amount of fuel as a very light car doing the same acceleration and coast. The equations below only account for the effect of weight when braking from a specific speed.<br />
<br />
'''Kinetic energy'''<br><br />
KE = 0.5 * m * V²<br><br />
KE is kinetic energy given in joules<br />
<br />
Where: <br><br />
m is the mass in kg <br><br />
V is velocity im meters per second <br><br />
<br />
Energy used to brake 50kg from 60 km/h to 0 km/h derived by user Saand is as follows<br><br />
Velocity difference is 16.67 M/s <br><br />
<br />
Energy = 0.5 * 50 * 16.67²7<br><br />
Energy = 6944 j<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Energy available in petrol'''<br><br />
Translating the joules required into fuel volume is done using the following<br><br />
<br />
Each gallon of fuel has 114500 BTU which is given by wikipedia<br><br />
Each BTU is equivalent to 1055.056 joules<br><br />
So joules per gallon is 120.8 million joules (120803895)<br />
<br />
'''Accounting for losses in converting petrols chemical energy to momentum'''<br><br />
The drive train is about 95% efficient<br />
<br />
using 6944 j for the energy in the mass<br />
The energy the engine has to put out is 7310 j<br />
<br />
The efficiency of a cars engine is around 18%<br />
The energy that the fuel has to provide to the engine is 40611 j<br />
<br />
'''Petrol required'''<br><br />
Using the energy available in a gallon of petrol found above and the energy required by the petrol to accelerate the weight found above we can find the petrol required to accelerate that mass<br><br />
<br />
gallons = 40611/120803895<br />
gallons = 0.000336<br />
liters = 0.00127<br />
<br />
'''Using this information'''<br><br />
You probably want to know what effect this has on your cars efficiency if you remove some weight.<br />
<br />
The numbers calculated assume decelerating by braking from 60 to 0 km/h and a mass of 50 kg. So for every 50 kg reduction the calculated volume of petrol will likely be saved each acceleration.<br />
<br />
<br />
If you are likely to remove 100kg then use double the volumes calculated, if you more frequently braking from a different speed down to 0 kph you will have to run through the calculations again as the velocity is a squared relationship.<br />
<br />
<br />
If you remove 100kg you will save 0.0025 per 60 to 0 kph deceleration by braking.<br />
<br />
To equate this to a efficiency improvement you will need to estimate how frequently you brake from 60 to 0 during a standard 100 km distance.<br />
Assuming you brake from 60 to 0, 30 times every 100 km then every 100km you are saving 76ml after removing 100kg of weight from your car.<br />
That is 0.076 liter per 100 km<br />
<br />
<br />
To equate this to an efficiency improvement divide the number above by the standard liter per 100 km efficiency of your car.<br />
<br />
assuming 6 liter per 100km this gives '''1.27%''' improvement<br />
<br />
Note: The calculations above assume there is no coasting, it only accounts for braking.</div>Daoxhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Open_ReVolt/Planned_FeaturesOpen ReVolt/Planned Features2018-07-09T22:21:26Z<p>Daox: Created page with "{{Open ReVolt Header}} :main contactor control :pack voltage monitoring :motor speed sensor/back EMF :precharge resistor/contactor ::traction battery polarity reversal detect..."</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Open ReVolt Header}}<br />
<br />
:main contactor control<br />
:pack voltage monitoring<br />
:motor speed sensor/back EMF<br />
:precharge resistor/contactor<br />
::traction battery polarity reversal detection [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-144v-motor-controller-6404-160.html]<br />
<br />
:It will be invisible and will make the car fly.</div>Daoxhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/BOMBOM2018-07-09T22:20:59Z<p>Daox: Created page with "[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/ReVolt Return to previous page.] ---- Control section Power section"</p>
<hr />
<div>[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/ReVolt Return to previous page.]<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Control section]]<br />
<br />
[[Power section]]</div>Daoxhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Weather_Spotter_Rear_wheel_skirtsWeather Spotter Rear wheel skirts2018-07-09T22:20:43Z<p>Daox: Created page with "http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Rear_wheel_skirts back to main wheel skirt page The idea here is to keep the air flow attached to the car instead of having to jump ov..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Rear_wheel_skirts back to main wheel skirt page]]<br />
<br />
The idea here is to keep the air flow attached to the car instead of having to jump over the wheel. Also the rotation of the wheels causes a disturbance that is minimized my covering over the wheel. <br />
[[Image:GEDC0156-1.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
'''How to make a wheel skirt'''<br />
<br />
To make one, start by looking at the shape of the car body before and after the wheel wheel. This is the shape you want to match. Also look to see how far out past the wheel wheel you tire sticks. You will need to have the side skirt bow out to accommodate this space (plus a little gap to make sue they do not rub). <br />
[[Image:GEDC0136.jpg]]<br />
[[Image:GEDC0139.jpg]]<br />
<br />
To do this Make a brace to go along the bottom. I used an old metal yard stick. <br />
[[Image:GEDC0147.jpg]]<br />
[[Image:GEDC0150.jpg]]<br />
<br />
You should also make a paper template of the area you want to cover.<br />
[[Image:GEDC0143.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Next make and attach brackets to hold the bottom brace on. I used angle brackets bought from the local hardware store. I screwed them into the plastic (rear) into the metal lip (top) and epoxied the front one on. <br />
[[Image:GEDC0155.jpg]]<br />
[[Image:GEDC0156.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Next take your paper template and cut out your wheel skirt. I used some galvanized sheet steel I had. Others have used colorplast. If using sheet metal, mark along the template but cut about half an inch further out. Bend in along the marked line. This forms a rolled edge which adds strength and removes the sharp edge. pound the bent material flat (picture shows it just bent up, not hammered over yet).<br />
[[Image:GEDC0136-1.jpg]] <br />
[[Image:GEDC0138.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Now it is time for a test fit:<br />
[[Image:GEDC0144.jpg]]<br />
[[Image:GEDC0147-1.jpg]]<br />
<br />
I attached my wheel skirt with flat head screws (to the brace) and used self tapping sheet metal screws to attach to the brackets. Nodice that for the top I used a hinge in place of a bracket, this allows for easier access to the air valve on the tire. <br />
<br />
If you like the fit, the next step is priming and painting to match. <br />
[[Image:GEDC0155-1.jpg]]<br />
[[Image:GEDC0145.jpg]]<br />
[[Image:GEDC0147-2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Reattach and test your results!<br />
<br />
----<br />
'''Test methods and results'''<br />
<br />
steady state MPG Matrix wheel skirt testing <br />
Testing conditions:<br />
Warmed up car by driving 15 miles before testing<br />
Flat road was two miles long (one mile was the test distance). <br />
Measurements with done with a scan gauge. <br />
Tested in this order B, A, B2, A2<br />
B= with both wheel skirts on<br />
A= normal no skirt<br />
Winds 5-8 N, NE <br />
<br />
I speed up the car to 55MPH (speed limit) and engaged cruse control (same setting for duration of testing). At my start point I hit reset on the ScanGauge's trip function. AT the end point (1 mile) I wrote down the trip average MPG. I turned around and ran the test from end to start. Each set (example "A") includes 6 runs south and 6 runs north at a mile per run. <br />
<br />
Here is my data:<br />
[[Image:Screen shot 2010-08-18 at 10.14.jpg]]<br />
[[Image:Screen shot 2010-08-12 at 3.03-1.jpg]] <br />
<br />
I would like to toss out my first set of "B" data because I found that the drive train does not warm up until 30+ miles have been driven. The data above contains all the data I gathered. <br />
<br />
Data summery: with wheel skirts I had a 1 to 1.5 % improvement in MPG. <br />
<br />
For more info and picts take a look at my thread:<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/how-help-my-matrix-14150.html]</div>Daoxhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/2003_Mazda_Protege52003 Mazda Protege52018-07-09T22:20:15Z<p>Daox: Created page with "== Connections: == All connections are at the ECM, which is located in the passenger side footwell, under the carpeting, and under a metal panel. Here are the pins I used (a..."</p>
<hr />
<div>== Connections: ==<br />
<br />
All connections are at the ECM, which is located in the passenger side footwell, under the carpeting, and under a metal panel.<br />
<br />
Here are the pins I used (and also note the wire colors; depending on the vehicle options (with or without ABS, AT/MT, etc.) you may see a different color wire for VSS, but I think the location should be the same.<br />
<br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1<br />
|+ ECM Pins for MPGuino in 2003 Mazda Protege5<br />
! Pin Number !! Color (Main/Stripe) !! Description <br />
|-<br />
|| 4 || White/Green || 12V Constant<br />
|-<br />
|| 24 || Black/White || Ground<br />
|-<br />
|| 100 || Green/Black || Injector #4<br />
|-<br />
|| 58 || Green/Red || VSS<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Calibration ==<br />
<br />
VSS pulses/mile: 8203<br />
<br />
microsec/gal: 0188390461<br />
<br />
== MPGuino Hacking ==<br />
<br />
[[Code_hacks]]</div>Daoxhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/2002_Honda_Civic_EX_Coupe2002 Honda Civic EX Coupe2018-07-09T22:19:53Z<p>Daox: Created page with "== mcclanahoochie's Civic == [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino/ Back to main MPGuino page] [http://mcclanahoochie.com/blog/portfolio/mpguino/ Blog Post] Instal..."</p>
<hr />
<div>== mcclanahoochie's Civic ==<br />
<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino/ Back to main MPGuino page]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
[http://mcclanahoochie.com/blog/portfolio/mpguino/ Blog Post]<br />
<br />
Installed<br />
<br />
[[Image:Civic-mpguino-full.jpg|700px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
Wiring<br />
<br />
[[Image:Honda-civic-ecu-vss.jpg|700px]]</div>Daoxhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Weather_Spotters_wheel_cover_how_toWeather Spotters wheel cover how to2018-07-09T22:18:54Z<p>Daox: Created page with "http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Smooth_wheel_covers Back to wheel covers How to: Examine your existing wheels looking for mount points: Image:Rim pre cover .jpg..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Smooth_wheel_covers Back to wheel covers]]<br />
<br />
How to:<br />
<br />
Examine your existing wheels looking for mount points:<br />
[[Image:Rim pre cover .jpg]]<br />
<br />
Buy pizza pans to fit (mine were 16" but 17" would have been better), Walmart had these [http://www.diamondlinks.net link building] for $3 each: <br />
[[Image:New pizza pans.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Locate a good spot for drilling and taping bolt holes: (in my case it was the ridge in the middle of the rim):<br />
[[Image:First hole.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Drill and tap 3 holes spaced 120 degrees apart (measure with protractor). I made the holes in the pizza pans first then used that as a template for the rims. I messed up the first set of holes (they were in 1/2" to far):<br />
<br />
[[Image:Holes in pizza pan.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:Tap holes.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Attach using galvanized bolts to that mach you tap (mine was 5/16 x18 and 1" long (.5 would have worked)):<br />
<br />
[[Image:Bolted on.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Drivers side:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Other side.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:Wheel covers side view.jpg]]<br />
<br />
take for a test drive. Mine was fine so I took them back off to paint the back side (black) and to clear coat the front. I chose to do this as rust insurance, steel pizza pans = rust after a few rocks hit them.<br />
<br />
During my testing yesterday the pizza pans made a racket, I though they might be coming off, nope still on tight. It took me a few min to figure out what was causing the noise. If I push in on the center of the pans they flex in about 1/8" this makes the edges lift off the outer edge of the rim. when they come back they make a popping sound (try this at home, take a pan hold the edges and push in at the middle, release and that is that I have).<br />
<br />
to fix this I was thinking of some felt pads on the inside of the pan, but they would not handle the wet weather very well. After some wondering around the workshop I got an inspired idea. I took some plastic tubing, slit it down one side and put it over the outer edge of the pizza pan (see thread for pics).<br />
<br />
I used some hot glue at the joint. Once on the car the bolts hold it tight to the rim!<br />
<br />
After a test drive that pizza pan stopped making noise (I can hear the others still). Now I need to make a run to the hardware store for some more tubing (4.5" per pizza pan).<br />
<br />
----<br />
== Test Data ==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Smooth wheel covers data.jpg]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:Smooth wheel covers data 2.jpg]]</div>Daoxhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/MetroMetro2018-07-09T22:18:34Z<p>Daox: Created page with "__TOC__ ==General Information== The Metro is a very fuel efficient vehicle with a long history. [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geo_Metro] It is capable of exceeding the MPG..."</p>
<hr />
<div>__TOC__ <br />
<br />
==General Information==<br />
The Metro is a very fuel efficient vehicle with a long history. [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geo_Metro] It is capable of exceeding the MPG ratings of "todays" hybrids.<br />
<br />
==[[MPGuino]]==<br />
===Settings===<br />
The following should be a good starting point:<br />
<ul><br />
<li>VSS Pulses/Mile = 8208</li><br />
<li>MicroSec/Gallon = 0500000000</li><br />
<li>Pulses/2 revs = 3</li><br />
<li>Tank Gal * 1000 = 10300</li><br />
</ul><br />
<br />
===Installation===<br />
<gallery perrow="3"><br />
Image:Metro1.JPG|Yellow Green wire for VSS (Speed) signal<br />
Image:Metro2.JPG|Tapped into Yellow/blue wire at fuel injector<br />
Image:Metro3.JPG|Small [[MPGuino]] sitting in front of Metro instrument cluster<br />
</gallery><br />
<br />
<br />
In the 1994 Geo Metro, the ECM is actually on the driver side to the left of the steering column (under the dash). It is very difficult to get at, but the correct wire is still the Yellow with Green stripe.</div>Daoxhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Echo-Troll_Ecomodding_ProjectEcho-Troll Ecomodding Project2018-07-09T22:18:14Z<p>Daox: Created page with "Return to Main Page''' | '''Return to the EcoModding Projects Page Echo-Troll =The..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]''' | '''[[Ecomodding projects|Return to the EcoModding Projects Page]]<br />
[[Image:Ecomodder.icon.jpg|right|thumb|1080px|frame|Echo-Troll]]<br />
=The Car :=<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=2 class="sortable"<br />
! width="30%"|Car Model, Year, Transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="30%"| Description : <br />
|-<br />
|Ex. Toyota Echo Sedan, 2005, Manual|| 30 MPG (US) || 38 MPG (US) || 33 MPG (US) || 58 MPG (US) || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053.html Echo-Troll Modding Thread]<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=EcoModding Project :=<br />
'''Hi Hypermilers!'''<br />
<br />
HyperMileQC and I are starting an aeromodding project on a '''Toyota Echo 2005 Manual 5 Speed 1.5 L''' : The Echo-Troll Project!<br />
<br />
'''EPA :''' 30 City \ 38 HWY \ 33 Combined MPG (US)<br />
<br />
'''My MPG's :''' 60 to 105 MPG in a 4.16 Miles commute \ 60 to 73.5 mpg on Highway<br />
<br />
*'''[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053.html Echo-Troll Modding Thread (2005 Toyota Echo)] | (Other Links)'''<br />
==Echo-Troll Modification Project==<br />
*'''The Ultimate Goal :'''<br />
Our goal is to reach the 3.0 L/100Km (78.4 MPG) Score at 50 MPH and maybe 2.5 L/100Km (94.09 MPG) Ultimate goal. For now we haved reached 3.2 L/100Km (73.5 MPG).<br />
<br />
*'''Car Stock Accessories :''' A/C, Mechanic Power Steering.<br />
<br />
=Car Modifications List :=<br />
==Instrumentation :==<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"<br />
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :<br />
|-<br />
| ScanGauge-II || Really big improvement || 150$ CAN || 1 Hour || OBD-II instant mpg gauge.<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
==Aerodynamic Mods :==<br />
===Aerodynamic Mods - Deletion :===<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"<br />
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :<br />
|-<br />
| Passenger Side Mirror || Maybe 1% || 5$ CAN || 2 hours || Removed the mirror and replaced by coroplast plate.<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
===Aerodynamic Mods - Fabrication :===<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"<br />
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :<br />
|-<br />
| Smooth Wheel Covers || 2.15% || 17$ CAN || 3 hours || Pizza pans nailed to the original cover.<br />
|-<br />
| Windshield Wiper Deflector || 1.50% || 10$ CAN || 2 hours || Coroplast deflector to remove wiper from AF.<br />
|-<br />
| Grille Block || Maybe 1-2% || 10$ CAN || 4 hours || Styrofoam covered with duct tape to block the grille opening.<br />
|-<br />
| Front and Rear Wheel Spats || Maybe 1% || 0$ || 35 Mins || Small coroplast deflector before the tire.<br />
|-<br />
| Complete Underbody Panelling (Belly Pan) || Maybe 2-4% || 25$ CAN || 15 hours || Coroplast panels covering underside.<br />
|-<br />
| Sealed Gaps || below 0.5% || 5$ CAN || 40 Mins || Weatherstripping tape used to seal gaps around lights and doors.<br />
|-<br />
| Front and Rear Wheel Arch Mud Flaps || Below 0.5% || 0$ || 20 Mins || Coroplast nailed ans duct taped to prevent dirt accumulating in the belly pan.<br />
|-<br />
| Side Skirts || Maybe 1% || 0$ || 2 hours || Coroplast skirt to help AF to attach on the side of the car.<br />
|-<br />
| Rear Wheel Skirts || Maybe 2% || 10$ || 2 hours || Coroplast wheel skirt to help AF to from being deattached by the wheel arch.<br />
|-<br />
| Kammback Spoiler || Maybe 2-3% || 2$ || 30 Mins || Coroplast and Duct Tape Kammback to maintain attached flow at the rear.<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Drivetrain Mods :==<br />
===Drivetrain Mods - Engine Mechanical :===<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"<br />
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :<br />
|-<br />
| Warm Air Intake (WAI) || Maybe 1% || 0$ || 2 Mins || Only removed the intake tube.<br />
|-<br />
| Mobil 1 0w-30 Synthetic Advanced Fuel Economy || Maybe 1% || 27$ || 30 Mins || Next oil change : Mobil 1 0w-30 Synthetic Advanced Fuel Economy<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Drivetrain Mods - Engine Accessory :===<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"<br />
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :<br />
|-<br />
| Power Steering Belt Remove || Maybe 1-2% || 0$ || 1 Min || Shlak, and it was done.<br />
|-<br />
| Air Conditioning Remove || Maybe 1% || 0$ || 2 Hours || Removed the A/C Radiator, hoses, compressor, and replaced the serpentine belt by a shorter one.<br />
|-<br />
| Mechanical Water Pump Remove || Maybe 2-4% || ~620$ || 5 days || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053-13.html#post328930 Electric Water Pump and EWP & Fan Digital Controller installation and testing]<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
===Drivetrain Mods - Transmission/Differential :===<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"<br />
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :<br />
|-<br />
|(Name of the modification you made)|| (Ex, 10%) || (Ex, S10 USD) || (Ex, 1 Hour) || (Description of the Mod)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
==Electrical mods :==<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"<br />
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :<br />
|-<br />
| Daytime Running Lights (DRL) Disable || Maybe 1% || 0$ || 5 Mins || Destroyed the DRL switch.<br />
|-<br />
| LED Front Side Marker, Rear Side Marker, Blinkers, 1 of 2 Plate Light, Brake Lights, High-Mount and Roof Light. || 78 Watts Reduction || 50$ || 30 Minutes || LED Lights are superior.<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Wheel & Tire Mods :==<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"<br />
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :<br />
|-<br />
| LRR Summer Tire up to 50 Psi (Front) and 50 Psi (Rear) || 2-3% || 0$ || 5 Mins || Michelin Defenders LRR Tires.<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Other Mods :==<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"<br />
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :<br />
|-<br />
|(Name of the modification you made)|| (Ex, 10%) || (Ex, S10 USD) || (Ex, 1 Hour) || (Description of the Mod)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
==Unproven Mods :==<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"<br />
! width="35%"|Modification :!!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement :!!width="15%"| Average Cost :!!width="15%"| Time Effort :!!width="20%"| More Description :<br />
|-<br />
|(Name of the modification you made)|| (Ex, 10%) || (Ex, S10 USD) || (Ex, 1 Hour) || (Description of the Mod)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
= References =<br />
== Forum thread links ==<br />
<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053.html#post264300 Echo-Troll Modding Thread (2005 Toyota Echo)]<br />
<br />
== External links ==<br />
[http://www.ecomodder.com EcoModder.com]</div>Daoxhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/X-Gauge_Commands_RepertoryX-Gauge Commands Repertory2018-07-09T22:06:57Z<p>Daox: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]] | [[ScanGauge_OBD-II_computer|Return to ScanGauge OBD-II computer (and similar) ]]<br />
<br />
[This page is under construction. Feel free to add data and X-Gauges.]<br />
<br />
The X-Gauges commands are built-in the ScanGauge-II, ScanGauge-E and ScanGauge-D. They are 4 series of number (TXD, RXF, RXD & MTH) which you can input directly from the SG user interface. <br />
<br />
To access the X-Gauges in your ScanGauge, first push on the principal button, then select More > More > Advanced Settings > X-Gauges. You can create up to 25 X-Gauges.<br />
They will be accessible like all your other normal gauges.<br />
<br />
Because diffferent OBD-II protocol exists. Some X-Gauges might not work on your vehicule. That's why this repertory will categorize the different OBD-II protocol and other specifics.<br />
<br />
[http://www.scangauge.com/support/x-gauge-commands/ X-Gauge Commands]<br />
<br />
== X-Gauges for ISO & VPW Vehicles ==<br />
X-Gauges such as O2 Sensor Voltages, Long and Short Fuel Trims, Air to Fuel Ratio’s, Fuel Level, and more can be found here for vehicles that use the ISO or VPW protocol.<br />
<br />
Most Asian, European, and Chrysler manufactured vehicles used the ISO protocol from 1996 to 2002. From 2003 to 2007 their vehicles will either support ISO or CAN.<br />
<br />
GM Vehicles almost exclusively used the VPW protocol from 1996 to 2002. From 2003 to 2007 GM vehicles will either support VPW or CAN.<br />
<br />
Some sensors may not be reported by the vehicle. If you try all available X-Gauges for a certain sensor and it doesn’t report any data then the sensor is most likely not supported by the vehicle.<br />
<br />
=== Horsepower ===<br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1 cellpadding="2"<br />
! GAUGE !! TXD !! RXF !! RXD !! MTH !! NAME !! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| Horsepower || 00 || 400080000000 || 0000 || 000A00170000 || HPR || Gasoline Gross/Brake<br />
|-<br />
| Horsepower || 00 || 400080000000 || 0000 || 000A00240000 || HPR || Diesel Gross/Brake<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== O2 Sensor Data ===<br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1 cellpadding="2"<br />
! GAUGE !! TXD !! RXF !! RXD !! MTH !! NAME !! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| Bank 1 - Sensor 1 || 616AF10114 || 044105140000 || 2808 || 000100020000 || O11 || 0 to 99%<br />
|-<br />
| Bank 1 - Sensor 2 || 616AF10115 || 044105150000 || 2808 || 000100020000 || O12 || 0 to 99%<br />
|-<br />
| Bank 1 - Sensor 3 || 616AF10116 || 044105160000 || 2808 || 000100020000 || O13 || 0 to 99%<br />
|-<br />
| Bank 1 - Sensor 4 || 616AF10117 || 044105170000 || 2808 || 000100020000 || O14 || 0 to 99%<br />
|-<br />
| Bank 2 - Sensor 1 || 616AF10118 || 044105180000 || 2808 || 000100020000 || O21 || 0 to 99%<br />
|-<br />
| Bank 2 - Sensor 2 || 616AF10119 || 044105190000 || 2808 || 000100020000 || O22 || 0 to 99%<br />
|-<br />
| Bank 2 - Sensor 3 || 616AF1011A || 0441051A0000 || 2808 || 000100020000 || O23 || 0 to 99%<br />
|-<br />
| Bank 2 - Sensor 4 || 616AF1011B || 0441051B0000 || 2808 || 000100020000 || O24 || 0 to 99%<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== Short/Long Term Fuel Trim ===<br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1 cellpadding="2"<br />
! GAUGE !! TXD !! RXF !! RXD !! MTH !! NAME !! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 || 616AF10106 || 044105060000 || 2808 || 00C80100FF9C || SF1 || +/- 0 to 99<br />
|-<br />
| Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2 || 616AF10108 || 044105080000 || 2808 || 00C80100FF9C || SF2 || +/- 0 to 99<br />
|-<br />
| Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 3 || 616AF10106 || 044105060000 || 3008 || 00C80100FF9C || SF3 || +/- 0 to 99<br />
|-<br />
| Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 4 || 616AF10108 || 044105080000 || 3008 || 00C80100FF9C || SF4 || +/- 0 to 99<br />
|-<br />
| Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 || 616AF10107 || 044105070000 || 2808 || 00C80100FF9C || LF1 || +/- 0 to 99<br />
|-<br />
| Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 2 || 616AF10109 || 044105090000 || 2808 || 00C80100FF9C || LF2 || +/- 0 to 99<br />
|-<br />
| Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 3 || 616AF10107 || 044105070000 || 3008 || 00C80100FF9C || LF3 || +/- 0 to 99<br />
|-<br />
| Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 4 || 616AF10109 || 044105090000 || 3008 || 00C80100FF9C || LF4 || +/- 0 to 99<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== Air to Fuel Ratio ===<br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1 cellpadding="2"<br />
! GAUGE !! TXD !! RXF !! RXD !! MTH !! NAME !! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| A/F Ratio Bank 1 - Sensor 1 || 686AF10124 || 044145240000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel<br />
|-<br />
| A/F Ratio Bank 1 - Sensor 2 || 616AF10125 || 044145250000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel<br />
|-<br />
| A/F Ratio Bank 1 - Sensor 3 || 686AF10126 || 044145260000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel<br />
|-<br />
| A/F Ratio Bank 1 - Sensor 4 || 686AF10127 || 044145270000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel<br />
|-<br />
| A/F Ratio Bank 2 - Sensor 1 || 686AF10128 || 044145280000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel<br />
|-<br />
| A/F Ratio Bank 2 - Sensor 2 || 686AF10129 || 044145290000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel<br />
|-<br />
| A/F Ratio Bank 2 - Sensor 3 || 686AF1012A || 0441452A0000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel<br />
|-<br />
| A/F Ratio Bank 2 - Sensor 4 || 686AF1012B || 0441452B0000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== Alt Air to Fuel Ratio ===<br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1 cellpadding="2"<br />
! GAUGE !! TXD !! RXF !! RXD !! MTH !! NAME !! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| Alt A/F Ratio Bank 1 - Sensor 1 || 686AF10134 || 044145340000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel<br />
|-<br />
| Alt A/F Ratio Bank 1 - Sensor 2 || 686AF10135 || 044145350000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel<br />
|-<br />
| Alt A/F Ratio Bank 1 - Sensor 3 || 686AF10136 || 044145360000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel<br />
|-<br />
| Alt A/F Ratio Bank 1 - Sensor 4 || 686AF10137 || 044145370000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel<br />
|-<br />
| Alt A/F Ratio Bank 2 - Sensor 1 || 686AF10138 || 044145380000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel<br />
|-<br />
| Alt A/F Ratio Bank 2 - Sensor 2 || 686AF10139 || 044145390000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel<br />
|-<br />
| Alt A/F Ratio Bank 2 - Sensor 3 || 686AF1013A || 0441453A0000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel<br />
|-<br />
| Alt A/F Ratio Bank 2 - Sensor 4 || 686AF1013B || 0441453B0000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel<br />
|-<br />
| Alt A/F Ratio Bank General || 686AF10144 || 044145440000 || 2808 || 05B900800000 || A/F || Ratio of Air to Fuel<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== Engine Run Time ===<br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1 cellpadding="2"<br />
! GAUGE !! TXD !! RXF !! RXD !! MTH !! NAME !! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| Engine Run Time || 686AF1011F || 0441051F0000 || 2810 || 000100010000 || ERT || Seconds<br />
|-<br />
| Engine Run Time || 686AF1011F || 0441051F0000 || 2810 || 0001003C0000 || ERT || Minutes<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== Fuel Level ===<br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1 cellpadding="2"<br />
! GAUGE !! TXD !! RXF !! RXD !! MTH !! NAME !! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| Fuel Level || 686AF1012F || 0441052F0000 || 2808 || 006400FF0000 || FL% || Percent<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== Barometric Pressure ===<br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1 cellpadding="2"<br />
! GAUGE !! TXD !! RXF !! RXD !! MTH !! NAME !! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| Barometric Pressure || 686AF10133 || 044105330000 || 2808 || 006400450000 || PSI || Pounds Per Square Inch<br />
|-<br />
| Barometric Pressure || 686AF10133 || 044105330000 || 2808 || 000100010000 || KPA || Kilopascals<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== Catalyst Temperature ===<br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1 cellpadding="2"<br />
! GAUGE !! TXD !! RXF !! RXD !! MTH !! NAME !! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| Bank 1 - Sensor 1 || 686AF1013C || 0441053C0000 || 2810 || 00090032FFD8 || f°CT || Degrees Fahrenheit<br />
|-<br />
| Bank 1 - Sensor 1 || 686AF1013C || 0441053C0000 || 2810 || 0001000A0000 || c°CT || Degrees Celsius<br />
|-<br />
| Bank 2 - Sensor 1 || 686AF1013D || 0441053C0000 || 2810 || 00090032FFD8 || f°CT || Degrees Fahrenheit<br />
|-<br />
| Bank 2 - Sensor 1 || 686AF1013D || 0441053C0000 || 2810 || 0001000A0000 || c°CT || Degrees Celsius<br />
|-<br />
| Bank 1 - Sensor 2 || 686AF1013E || 0441053C0000 || 2810 || 00090032FFD8 || f°CT || Degrees Fahrenheit<br />
|-<br />
| Bank 1 - Sensor 2 || 686AF1013E || 0441053C0000 || 2810 || 0001000A0000 || c°CT || Degrees Celsius<br />
|-<br />
| Bank 2 - Sensor 2 || 686AF1013F || 0441053C0000 || 2810 || 00090032FFD8 || f°CT || Degrees Fahrenheit<br />
|-<br />
| Bank 2 - Sensor 2 || 686AF1013F || 0441053C0000 || 2810 || 0001000A0000 || c°CT || Degrees Celsius<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
=== Ambient Air Temperature ===<br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1 cellpadding="2"<br />
! GAUGE !! TXD !! RXF !! RXD !! MTH !! NAME !! Notes<br />
|-<br />
| Ambient Air Temperature (°F) || 686AF10146 || 044105460000 || 2808 || 00090005FFD8 || f°AT || Degrees Fahrenheit<br />
|-<br />
| Ambient Air Temperature (°C) || 686AF10146 || 044105460000 || 2808 || 000100010000 || c°AT || Degrees Celsius<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== X-Gauges for PWM vehicles ==<br />
O2 Sensor Data for PWM vehicles Fuel Trim for PWM vehilces Air to Fuel Ratio for PWM vehicles Engine Run Time for PWM vehicles Fuel Level for PWM vehicles Barometric Pressure for PWM vehicles Catalyst Temperature for PWM vehicles Ambient Air Temperature for PWM vehicles.<br />
<br />
Ford vehicles from 1996 to 2002 almost exclusively used the PWM protocol. From 2003 to 2007 Ford vehicles will either support PWM or CAN.<br />
<br />
Some sensors may not be reported by the vehicle. If you try all available X-Gauges for a certain sensor and it doesn’t report any data then the sensor is most likely not supported by the vehicle.<br />
<br />
=== Horsepower ===<br />
<br />
=== O2 Sensor Data ===<br />
<br />
=== Fuel Trim for ===<br />
<br />
=== Air to Fuel Ratio ===<br />
<br />
=== Engine Run Time ===<br />
<br />
=== Fuel Level ===<br />
<br />
=== Barometric Pressure ===<br />
<br />
=== Catalyst Temperature ===<br />
<br />
=== Ambient Air Temperature ===<br />
<br />
== X-Gauges for CANSF vehicles ==<br />
X-Gauges such as O2 Sensor Voltages, Long and Short Fuel Trims, Air to Fuel Ratio’s, Fuel Level, and more can be found here for vehicles that use the CANSF protocol.<br />
<br />
The CANSF protocol began being used in 2003 by a small number of vehicles. From 2003 to 2008 the CANSF protocol became more prevalent. Finally in 2008 all vehicles originally sold in the US or Canada were required to use the CANSF protocol.<br />
<br />
Some sensors may not be reported by the vehicle. If you try all available XGauges for a certain sensor and it doesn’t report any data then the sensor is most likely not supported by the vehicle.<br />
<br />
== X-Gauges for KWP Vehicles ==<br />
X-Gauges such as O2 Sensor Voltages, Long and Short Fuel Trims, Air to Fuel Ratio’s, Fuel Level, and more can be found here for vehicles that use the KWP Protocol.<br />
<br />
Some Asian & European market vehicles used the KWP protocol.<br />
<br />
Some sensors may not be reported by the vehicle. If you try all available XGauges for a certain sensor and it doesn’t report any data then the sensor is most likely not supported by the vehicle.<br />
<br />
== Ford Specific X-Gauges ==<br />
Ford Specific X-Gauges Codes. View parameters such as Transmission Fluid Temperature, Cylinder Head Temperature, Fuel Level, and more on your Ford. There are also model specific X-Gauges for the 7.3, 6.0, 6.4 Powerstroke Diesels and the Ford Escape Hybrid.<br />
<br />
Below is a the lists of Ford specific XGauge codes. The first two tables depend on the protocol your Ford runs in. All 2003 and older Ford vehicles will use the PWM protocol, however 2004 -2007 Fords may use PWM or CANSF. All 2008 and newer Fords use CANSF.<br />
<br />
Some sensors may not be reported by the vehicle. If you try all available XGauges for a certain sensor and it doesn’t report any data then the sensor is most likely not supported by the vehicle.<br />
<br />
== Toyota Specific X-Gauges==<br />
Toyota Specific X-Gauge Codes. Specific codes for the Gen I, II, and III Prius.<br />
<br />
== GM Specific X-Gauges==<br />
GM Specific XGauge Codes. Monitor your Transmission Fluid Temperature, Air to Fuel Ratio, Engine Torque, and more with these X-Gauge codes.<br />
<br />
Below are the GM Specific XGauge codes. They are broken down between the two ECU protocols that GM used, so you’ll want to program these X-Gauges based on what protocol your GM vehicle uses. All 2003 and older GM vehicles will use the VPW protocol. All GM vehicles from 2004 to 2007 may use the VPW or CANSF protocol. All 2008 and newer GM vehicles will use the CANSF protocol.<br />
<br />
Some sensors may not be reported by the vehicle. If you try all available X-Gauges for a certain sensor and it doesn’t report any data then the sensor is most likely not supported by the vehicle.<br />
<br />
Note: Sometimes the value 01 needs to be added to the end of a TXD to get the X-Gauge to work. This is why there is a (01) at the end of each of these X-Gauge’s TXD line.<br />
<br />
== VW Specific X-Gauges ==<br />
VW Specific X-Gauges Codes. These are XGauges for VW’s that use the ISO protocol.<br />
<br />
Below are two X-Gauges for VW’s that use the ISO protocol. The ISO protocol was used in VW’s from 1996 t0 2003. In 2003 some VW’s switched to the CAN protocol, so there’s a slight chance from 2003 to 2008 your VW will not use the ISO protocol. In 2008 ALL VW’s use the CAN protocol, so these codes will not apply to 2008 and newer VW’s.<br />
<br />
== Dodge Specific X-Gauges ==<br />
Dodge Specific X-Gauges Codes. This list is currently highly experimental, so we will list which vehicles we know the X-Gauge has worked in. If your vehicle is not on that list there is a possibility that the X-Gauge will not work with your vehicle If you have a Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep vehicle that list there is a possibility that the XGauge will not work with your vehicle<br />
<br />
== Mazda Specific X-Gauges ==<br />
Mazda Specific X-Gauge Codes. This list is currently highly experimental, so we will list which vehicles we know the X-Gauge has worked in. If your vehicle is not on that list there is a possibility that the X-Gauge will not work with your vehicle If you have a<br />
<br />
Mazda uses a variety of codes to report sensor values, so one parameter may have several different possible codes to try. These codes are designed for Mazda vehicles that use the CAN Protocol. Some parameters may not be supported by your vehicle.</div>Daoxhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Open_ReVolt/Current_FeaturesOpen ReVolt/Current Features2018-07-09T22:06:37Z<p>Daox: Created page with "{{Open ReVolt Header}} :Any voltage input in the range of 0 to 144v. :15.6 kHz switching frequency. :Adjustable hardware overcurrent shutdown in the range 495 amps to 776 amp..."</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Open ReVolt Header}}<br />
<br />
:Any voltage input in the range of 0 to 144v.<br />
:15.6 kHz switching frequency.<br />
:Adjustable hardware overcurrent shutdown in the range 495 amps to 776 amps.<br />
:Hardware over-current shuts down in 3-4 µs. [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-144v-motor-controller-6404-161.html]<br />
:RS-232 interface.<br />
:Reprogrammable.<br />
:High pedal lockout.<br />
:The controller will not close the main contactor if the mosfets have failed shorted.<br />
:Protection from many potentially destructive errors: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-144v-motor-controller-6404-158.html]<br />
::Control board power polarity reversed<br />
::12V supply connected to throttle<br />
::Full throttle at 0 RPM</div>Daoxhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Open_ReVolt/FAQOpen ReVolt/FAQ2018-07-09T22:06:16Z<p>Daox: Created page with "{{Open ReVolt Header}} The '''Open ReVolt''' EV controller inspires a lot of questions. Here's the answers to the most popular ones. __TOC__ == What ''is'' an EV contr..."</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Open ReVolt Header}}<br />
<br />
The '''[[Open ReVolt]]''' EV controller inspires a lot of questions. Here's the answers to the most popular ones.<br />
<br />
__TOC__<br />
<br />
<br />
== What ''is'' an EV controller? ==<br />
<br />
The three main parts to an electric vehicle drivetrain are the batteries, motor, and the controller. The controller acts like a valve, regulating the amount of electricity that goes from the batteries to the motor. It does this mainly in response to the pedal position, but it can also depend on vehicle speed, component temperatures, and battery charge.<br />
<br />
== What is the Open ReVolt project? ==<br />
<br />
Spearheaded by ecomodder.com user MPaulHolmes, Open ReVolt is a project to make a '''do-it-yourself, open source''' EV controller. Since they aren't mass-produced yet, the controller is often the most expensive single component for homebuilt EVs. Since they're so specialized, most people can't simply scavenge controllers like they can motors, batteries, and gliders (aka vehicle bodies).<br />
<br />
== How does an EV controller work? ==<br />
<br />
The simplest EV controller would just be a switch. Turn it on and the car goes, turn it off and it coasts. This isn't very practical for automobiles, but some toy cars use this system.<br />
<br />
Conceptually automotive controllers are almost as simple – they just turn the switch on and off really fast using electronic switches; typically power semiconductors called ''MOSFETs''. By varying how long they're on versus off, the speed of the motor can be turned up and down (a technique called ''pulse width modulation'' or PWM). Other techniques of varying the speed and power of electric motors exist, but have fallen from favor with today's technology. <br />
<br />
Of course, nitpicky details creep in. The jerky voltage of PWM can be smoothed out by putting large capacitors after the switches. The current induced by the motor windings can flow around the MOSFETs without burning them up by adding diodes to the circuit. A MOSFET that's only partway on creates a lot of heat, so the switching needs to happen as fast as possible. Diodes create even more heat, so they're sometimes replaced with another set of MOSFETs in a trick known as '''synchronous rectification'''. The MOSFETs need to turn on simultaneously so the early bird doesn't get fried. EMI can screw with the control board. Etc…<br />
<br />
== I'm tech savvy. How does an EV controller work? ==<br />
<br />
Oh, sorry about that. An EV controller uses a feedback loop to regulate the current going to the motor by adjusting the voltage. To avoid oscillations, a PI controller (or sometimes weighted averages)<!-- someone care to elaborate on the current system? I can't keep track --> is used. Most feature thermal cutoffs and hardware current limiters, but some have watchdog timers, high-pedal lockouts, polarity reversal protection, MOSFET short protection, RS-232, motor speed sensors, vehicle speed sensors, traction battery monitors, and even integrated charge controllers. See Open ReVolt's [[Current Features]].<br />
<br />
== EVs are battery powered ...so what's with the AC controller? ==<br />
<br />
Until 2011 or so most DIY EVs used DC motors for various reasons, but mostly because of the complexity of the controllers. The great debate about Edison's DC versus Tesla and Westinghouses AC may never end, because of their differences. Presently the advantages of an AC "squirrel cage induction motor" over certain characteristics of DC motors seem to outweigh the controller complexity issue. With today's electronics technology, and availability of semiconductor devices, AC controllers are efficient, affordable and robust enough to be used. This improves our options as we make the engineering decisions which will give us the vehicle most suitable for our own applications.<br />
<br />
== What's so great about the Open ReVolt? ==<br />
<br />
Several things, it's '''open''', '''modular''', '''inexpensive''', and '''free'''. No, that's not a typo.<br />
<br />
<br />
As the name would imply, Open ReVolt is '''open''', which means its development happens online for everyone to see. Want to know what a certain part does and why? It's all in the [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-144v-motor-controller-6404.html design thread]. This way many, many people with different backgrounds are watching for mistakes and problems, but also opportunities for improvement. ''This includes you!''<br />
<br />
<br />
The Open ReVolt is designed to be as '''modular''' as possible. A ''[[Open ReVolt/Control board|control board]]'' houses all the low-voltage electronics like microcontrollers and data and throttle cables. A ''[[Open ReVolt/Power board|power board]]'' contains the MOSFETs, capacitors, and diodes, as well as the bus bars which connect to the motor and batteries. To protect the control board, it is connected to the power board with an optoisolator. The control board uses its own separate battery for power<br />
<br />
Since the two boards are modular, you can size the power board for your vehicle without affecting the control board. An electric bike and an electric lorry could use the same control board (simply by attaching it to a higher-current power board). The power board can accept any battery voltage from 0 to 144 V.<br />
<br />
<br />
A big driver in the design process is to make the finished controller '''inexpensive'''. This means being smart with what components are called for, group buying to drive down cost, and taking advantage of generously donated parts, time, and resources.<br />
<br />
<br />
Sadly we can't give away the actual electronic parts, but the schematics, software, and blueprints are all 100% '''free'''. MPaulHolmes can't break down your door for copying the Open ReVolt design, because you already own it! (strictly speaking everyone does) This is a big deal for EV controllers, since recouping development costs is a big part of why small-volume products like them are so expensive.<br />
<br />
== Sounds cool. Where do I start? ==<br />
<br />
If you're just looking to build a controller, you can start with the Bill of Materials for either the [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Control_board control board] or the [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Power_board power board] (you'll need both to have a working controller).<br />
<br />
If you're looking to help out/contribute to the advance of the project, there are several ways to dive in. Editing this wiki is one. You can offer anything else [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-144v-motor-controller-6404.html on the design thread]. Things that have been offered include:<br />
<br />
*beta testing time (use one of these controllers in their already-running EV)<br />
*machine shop time (to make parts for the controllers)<br />
*business discounts (when placing orders for components specifically related to making an Open ReVolt controller)<br />
*components (to be used to build test systems)<br />
*financial donations (to buy parts)<br />
*encouragement (Thanks to all!)</div>Daoxhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Open_ReVolt/SoftwareOpen ReVolt/Software2018-07-09T22:05:44Z<p>Daox: Created page with "{{Open ReVolt Header}} [http://svn.fastdigitech.ro/trac/openrevolt/browser/trunk svn repository] (browse only) [http://www.atmel.com/dyn/products/tools_card.asp?tool_id=2725..."</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Open ReVolt Header}}<br />
<br />
[http://svn.fastdigitech.ro/trac/openrevolt/browser/trunk svn repository] (browse only)<br />
<br />
[http://www.atmel.com/dyn/products/tools_card.asp?tool_id=2725 Development Environmet]<br />
<br />
[http://www.atmel.com/dyn/resources/prod_documents/doc2486.pdf ATmega8 Manual]<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/HighVoltageControllerIMPROVED_ECOM.C Current Controller Software]--[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 19:44, 21 May 2009 (EDT)<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
==Software Features and Revisions==<br />
<br />
An Archive of firmware versions v0.10 through v1.11b is available at :http://www.adambrunette.com/firmware/<br />
<br />
:version 0.1 - first version tested<br />
:version 0.2 - added PW (PWM) to realtime data<br />
:version 0.3 - added thermal cutback code (to be checked by Paul)<br />
:version 0.4 - added continous check of vref below 2V<br />
:version 0.5 - declared some variables volatile to enforce execution within bounds of cli() and sei()<br />
:version 0.6 - make ocr1a_lpf time constant longer - V0.5 oscillates if Kp,Ki are low (slow PI loop)<br />
:version 0.7 - fixed stupid bug in config_pi() that caused Joe's problems (thanks Joe)<br />
:version 0.8 - high pedal lockout added but not yet tested<br />
:version 0.9 - store mutiple copies of configuration in EE prom (not yet tested)<br />
:version 0.10 - code size reduction, correct thermal cutback starting point, selectable pwm low pass filter<br />
:version 1.0 - in pi_loop() added cli() and sei() around update of OCR1A, added cli() after pi_loop<br />
:version 1.1 - added battery amps and battery amp hour calculations (not yet tested)<br />
:version 1.2 - added motor overspeed logic (experimental and not yet tested)<br />
:version 1.3 - added battery amps limit (not yet tested) and changed motor overspeed parameters to 4 digit<br />
:version 1.4 - new 8KHz PWM compile to option, added battery_amps_limit, spare, and crc, default_config PROGMEM<br />
:version 1.5 - fixed ocr1a_lpf calculation - so battery amps limit should now work, added "restart" command<br />
:version 1.6 - added support for ATMEGA168 (not yet tested)<br />
:version 1.7 - moved motor overspeed logic (still not yet tested) from main() into interrupt code pi_loop()<br />
:version 1.8 - added precharge timer, removed not needed code that measures pi_loop() execution time<br />
:version 1.9 - forgot to calculate bat_amp_lim_510 when loading config from EEprom, now fixed (thanks Adam)<br />
:version 1.10 - added configurable PWM dead zone and motor overspeed detect time for motor overspeed logic, configuration menu a little nicer, new watchdog handling (mainly for ATMega168)<br />
:2010-01-10 fixed defines for PIND, DDRD, and PORTD in bootload168/misc.asm (no version change)<br />
:version 1.11 - added motor_speed_calc_amps - attempt to avoid overspeed tripping when pedal is "pumped"<br />
<br />
<br />
== Latest Software (cut and paste into avrstudio): ==<br />
Create the 3 files listed in AVRStudio and add the code to the associated file.<br />
<br />
== Cougar.c ==<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
/*<br />
firmware for cougar open source DC motor controller<br />
*/<br />
<br />
#include <avr/io.h><br />
#include <avr/pgmspace.h><br />
#include <avr/interrupt.h><br />
#include <avr/iom8.h><br />
#include <util/crc16.h><br />
#include <avr/wdt.h><br />
#include <avr/eeprom.h><br />
#include <stdio.h><br />
#include <stdlib.h><br />
#include <string.h><br />
<br />
#include "cougar.h"<br />
<br />
// now using automatically generated CRC file<br />
#include "autocrc.h"<br />
<br />
typedef struct {<br />
int throttle_ref;<br />
int current_ref;<br />
int current_fb;<br />
unsigned raw_hs_temp;<br />
unsigned raw_throttle;<br />
} realtime_data_type;<br />
<br />
typedef struct {<br />
long K1;<br />
long K2;<br />
long error_new;<br />
long error_old;<br />
long pwm;<br />
} pi_storage_type;<br />
<br />
typedef struct {<br />
unsigned magic; // must be 0x12ab<br />
int Kp; // PI loop proportional gain<br />
int Ki; // PI loop integreal gain<br />
unsigned throttle_min_raw_counts; // throttle low voltage (pedal to metal)<br />
unsigned throttle_max_raw_counts; // throttle high voltage (foot off pedal)<br />
unsigned throttle_pos_gain; // gain for actual throttle position<br />
unsigned throttle_pwm_gain; // gain for pwm (voltage)<br />
int current_ramp_rate; // current ramp rate<br />
int spare[7]; // spare parameters<br />
unsigned crc; // checksum for verification<br />
} config_type;<br />
<br />
config_type default_config PROGMEM = {<br />
0x12ab, // magic<br />
2, // PI loop P gain (Joe's was 1)<br />
160, // PI loop I gain (Joe's was 20)<br />
413, // throttle low voltage (pedal to metal)<br />
683, // throttle high voltage (foot off pedal)<br />
8, // throttle pedal position gain<br />
0, // throttle pwm (voltage) gain<br />
6, // current ramp rate (from throttle)<br />
};<br />
<br />
unsigned char counter_16k = 0;<br />
unsigned char counter_8k = 0;<br />
unsigned char counter_4k = 0;<br />
unsigned char ad_channel = 0;<br />
unsigned char oc_cycles_off_counter = 0;<br />
unsigned char in_pi_loop = 0;<br />
volatile unsigned char pi_run_tm = 0;<br />
<br />
volatile unsigned counter_1k = 0; // 1KHz (976Hz to be exact) counter for timing<br />
<br />
volatile unsigned raw_current_fb; // AD channel 2<br />
volatile unsigned raw_hs_temp; // AD channel 1<br />
volatile unsigned raw_throttle; // AD channel 0<br />
<br />
unsigned vref = 0; // zero current voltage for LEM current sensor<br />
unsigned ocr1a_lpf = 0; // ocr1a run through lowpass filter (sort of averaged)<br />
unsigned max_current_ref = MAX_CURRENT_REF; // max_current_ref in variable so controlled by temperature<br />
int throttle_ref = 0; // reference (desired) throttle<br />
int current_ref = 0; // reference (desired) current<br />
int current_fb = 0; // current feedback (actual current)<br />
<br />
unsigned long idle_loopcount; // how many loops we do while micro is not executing PI<br />
<br />
pi_storage_type pi;<br />
config_type config;<br />
realtime_data_type rt_data;<br />
<br />
#ifdef crc_address<br />
// calc CRC for program (firmware)<br />
unsigned int calc_prog_crc(unsigned nbytes)<br />
{<br />
unsigned n, crc;<br />
<br />
crc = 0xffff;<br />
for (n = PROGSTART; n < nbytes; n++) {<br />
crc = _crc_ccitt_update (crc, pgm_read_byte(n));<br />
}<br />
return(crc);<br />
}<br />
#endif<br />
<br />
// calc CRC on block in SRAM<br />
unsigned int calc_block_crc(unsigned nbytes, unsigned char *buf)<br />
{<br />
unsigned n, crc;<br />
<br />
crc = 0xffff;<br />
for (n = 0; n < nbytes; n++) {<br />
crc = _crc_ccitt_update (crc, *(buf + n));<br />
}<br />
return(crc);<br />
}<br />
<br />
inline void clear_oc(void)<br />
{<br />
PORTB &= ~PB_OC_CLEAR; // OC clear low (low to clear)<br />
asm("nop"); asm("nop"); // 4 nops = 1/4th uS - enough for 74HC00<br />
asm("nop"); asm("nop"); <br />
PORTB |= PB_OC_CLEAR; // OC clear high (high for normal operation)<br />
}<br />
<br />
inline unsigned get_time(void)<br />
{<br />
unsigned t;<br />
<br />
cli(); t = counter_1k; sei();<br />
return(t);<br />
}<br />
<br />
inline unsigned diff_time(unsigned before)<br />
{<br />
unsigned now;<br />
<br />
cli(); now = counter_1k; sei();<br />
return(now - before);<br />
<br />
}<br />
<br />
unsigned long wait_time(unsigned howlong)<br />
{<br />
unsigned begin;<br />
unsigned long loopcount;<br />
<br />
loopcount = 0;<br />
begin = get_time();<br />
while (diff_time(begin) < howlong) loopcount++;<br />
return(loopcount);<br />
}<br />
<br />
// PI loop code - runs at 4Khz<br />
void pi_loop(void)<br />
{<br />
static unsigned char throttle_counter = 0;<br />
unsigned char entry_tm, exec_tm;<br />
unsigned loc_current_fb, loc_throttle;<br />
unsigned uv1, uv2;<br />
int i;<br />
<br />
entry_tm = counter_16k;<br />
loc_current_fb = raw_current_fb;<br />
loc_throttle = raw_throttle;<br />
sei();<br />
// now we have a snapshot of all ADC readings and interrupts are enabled<br />
// the timer 1 overflow ISR should re-enter on itself if it needs to<br />
// we also have a snapshot of the entry time (16KHz counter) so we can measure execution time<br />
<br />
// convert loc_current_fb from raw value to scaled (0 to 511)<br />
// current starts in [512, 512 + 213] (if it's in 0 to 500 amps for the LEM 300)<br />
if (loc_current_fb < vref) loc_current_fb = 0;<br />
else loc_current_fb -= vref;<br />
// now current is in the range [0, 213] or so<br />
current_fb = (loc_current_fb * 19) >> 3; // (19/8 is almost 2.4)<br />
// now current is in [0, 506] or so, close to same as current reference range<br />
pi.error_new = current_ref - current_fb;<br />
// execute PI loop<br />
// first, K1 = Kp << 10;<br />
// second, K2 = Ki - K1;<br />
if (current_ref == 0) {<br />
pi.pwm = 0;<br />
//pi.Kp = 0;<br />
//pi.Ki = 0;<br />
<br />
// if Kp and Ki = 0, then K1 and K2 = 0;<br />
// if K1 and K2 = 0, then pwm = pwm + 0, and 0 + 0 = 0<br />
// so we don't need to run the PI loop, just set error_old to error_new<br />
}<br />
else {<br />
pi.pwm += (pi.K1 * pi.error_new) + (pi.K2 * pi.error_old);<br />
}<br />
pi.error_old = pi.error_new;<br />
if (pi.pwm > (510L << 16)) pi.pwm = (510L << 16);<br />
else if (pi.pwm < 0L) pi.pwm = 0L;<br />
if (pi.pwm & 0x8000) OCR1A = (pi.pwm >> 16) + 1;<br />
else OCR1A = (pi.pwm >> 16);<br />
<br />
// calculate average OCR1A value<br />
// OCR1A max value is 511, so we can multiply it by up to 127 times<br />
ocr1a_lpf = ((ocr1a_lpf * 15) + (unsigned)OCR1A) >> 4;<br />
<br />
throttle_counter++;<br />
if ((throttle_counter & 0x03) == 0x00) {<br />
// run throttle logic at 1KHz - calculate throttle_ref<br />
<br />
if (loc_throttle > config.throttle_max_raw_counts)<br />
loc_throttle = config.throttle_max_raw_counts;<br />
else if (loc_throttle < config.throttle_min_raw_counts)<br />
loc_throttle = config.throttle_min_raw_counts;<br />
<br />
loc_throttle -= config.throttle_min_raw_counts;<br />
// now loc_throttle is in [0, (throttle_max_raw_counts - throttle_min_raw_counts)]<br />
loc_throttle = (config.throttle_max_raw_counts - config.throttle_min_raw_counts) -<br />
loc_throttle;<br />
/*<br />
now, 0 throttle is 0,<br />
and max throttle is (throttle_max_raw_counts - throttle_min_raw_counts)<br />
*/<br />
throttle_ref = (long)loc_throttle * (long)MAX_CURRENT_REF /<br />
(long)(config.throttle_max_raw_counts - config.throttle_min_raw_counts);<br />
// now throttle ref in [0 to 511]<br />
}<br />
else if ((throttle_counter & 0x03) == 0x01) {<br />
// run throttle logic at 1KHz - calculate current_ref from throttle_ref<br />
<br />
// throttle gain logic<br />
uv1 = (throttle_ref * config.throttle_pos_gain) >> 8;<br />
uv2 = (throttle_ref * config.throttle_pwm_gain) >> 8;<br />
if (uv1 > uv2) loc_throttle = uv1 - uv2;<br />
else loc_throttle = 0;<br />
<br />
// current_ref ramp rate logic<br />
if (loc_throttle > max_current_ref) i = (max_current_ref - current_ref);<br />
else i = (int)loc_throttle - current_ref;<br />
if (i > config.current_ramp_rate) i = config.current_ramp_rate;<br />
else if (i < -config.current_ramp_rate) i = -config.current_ramp_rate;<br />
current_ref += i;<br />
}<br />
// measure how long execution took<br />
exec_tm = counter_16k - entry_tm;<br />
if (exec_tm > pi_run_tm) pi_run_tm = exec_tm;<br />
}<br />
<br />
// TIMER1 overflow interrupt<br />
// This occurs center aligned with PWM output - best time to sample current sensor<br />
// Rate is 16KHz<br />
ISR(TIMER1_OVF_vect)<br />
{<br />
unsigned ui;<br />
<br />
counter_16k++;<br />
if (counter_16k & 0x01) {<br />
// every other time (8KHz)<br />
counter_8k++;<br />
if (counter_8k & 0x01) {<br />
// conversion on throttle or heatsink done - grab result<br />
ui = ADC;<br />
ADMUX = ADMUX = (1 << REFS0) | 2; // start conversion on current fb chan<br />
ADCSRA = (1 << ADEN) | (1 << ADPS2) | (1 << ADPS1) | (1 << ADPS0) | (1 << ADSC);<br />
if (ad_channel == 0) raw_throttle = ui;<br />
else if (ad_channel == 1) raw_hs_temp = ui;<br />
counter_4k++;<br />
if ((counter_4k & 0x03) == 0) counter_1k++; // 1 KHz counter for delays, etc.<br />
// overcurrent trip logic<br />
if (PINB & PINB_OC_STATE) {<br />
// overcurrent circuit tripped<br />
oc_cycles_off_counter++;<br />
}<br />
if (oc_cycles_off_counter >= NUM_OC_CYCLES_OFF) {<br />
// time to reset overcurrent trip circuit<br />
oc_cycles_off_counter = 0;<br />
#ifdef OC_CLEAR_ENABLED<br />
clear_oc();<br />
#endif<br />
}<br />
}<br />
else {<br />
// convertion on current sensor reading complete (4KHz)<br />
raw_current_fb = ADC; // get conversion result<br />
ad_channel++; // next channel channel<br />
if (ad_channel > 1) ad_channel = 0; // wrap around logic<br />
ADMUX = ADMUX = (1 << REFS0) | ad_channel; // set channel and start conversion<br />
ADCSRA = (1 << ADEN) | (1 << ADPS2) | (1 << ADPS1) | (1 << ADPS0) | (1 << ADSC);<br />
// execute PI loop with re-entrancy check<br />
if (!in_pi_loop) {<br />
in_pi_loop = 1; pi_loop(); in_pi_loop = 0;<br />
}<br />
}<br />
}<br />
}<br />
<br />
// timer 1 input capture ISR (1000 hertz)<br />
SIGNAL(SIG_INPUT_CAPTURE1)<br />
{<br />
counter_1k++; // 1 KHz counter for delays, etc. <br />
}<br />
<br />
unsigned char measure_vref(void)<br />
{<br />
unsigned char lp;<br />
unsigned sum;<br />
<br />
sum = 0;<br />
for (lp = 0; lp < 16; lp++) {<br />
// do a conversion on channel 2 - current sensor<br />
ADMUX = ADMUX = (1 << REFS0) | 2;<br />
ADCSRA = (1 << ADEN) | (1 << ADPS2) | (1 << ADPS1) | (1 << ADPS0) | (1 << ADSC);<br />
while (ADCSRA & (1 << ADSC));<br />
sum += ADC;<br />
}<br />
vref = sum >> 4;<br />
if ((vref > (512 + 50)) || (vref < (512 - 50))) return(0);<br />
return(1);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void config_pi(void)<br />
{<br />
/* A couple of points:<br />
We are now doing OCR1A = (pwm >> 16) instead of (pwm >> 15)<br />
Because of this, both Kp and Ki must double for same loop response<br />
Also, the PI loop is run at 4KHz instead of 16, so Ki must quadruple for same loop response<br />
So for same loop response, Kp is 2X and Ki is 8X */<br />
<br />
long v1, v2;<br />
<br />
v1 = (long)config.Kp << 10;<br />
v2 = (long)config.Ki - pi.K1;<br />
cli(); pi.K1 = v1; pi.K2 = v2; sei();<br />
}<br />
<br />
void fetch_rt_data(void)<br />
{<br />
// fetch variable with interrupts off, then re-enable interrupts (interrupts can happen during NOPs)<br />
cli(); rt_data.throttle_ref = (volatile int)throttle_ref; sei();<br />
asm("nop"); asm("nop"); asm("nop"); asm("nop");<br />
<br />
// fetch variable with interrupts off, then re-enable interrupts (interrupts can happen during NOPs)<br />
cli(); rt_data.current_ref = (volatile int)current_ref; sei();<br />
asm("nop"); asm("nop"); asm("nop"); asm("nop");<br />
<br />
// fetch variable with interrupts off, then re-enable interrupts (interrupts can happen during NOPs)<br />
cli(); rt_data.current_fb = (volatile int)current_fb; sei();<br />
asm("nop"); asm("nop"); asm("nop"); asm("nop");<br />
<br />
// fetch variable with interrupts off, then re-enable interrupts (interrupts can happen during NOPs)<br />
cli(); rt_data.raw_hs_temp = (volatile unsigned)raw_hs_temp; sei();<br />
asm("nop"); asm("nop"); asm("nop"); asm("nop");<br />
<br />
// fetch variable with interrupts off, then re-enable interrupts (interrupts can happen during NOPs)<br />
cli(); rt_data.raw_throttle = (volatile unsigned)raw_throttle; sei();<br />
asm("nop"); asm("nop"); asm("nop"); asm("nop");<br />
}<br />
<br />
void read_config(void)<br />
{<br />
eeprom_read_block(&config, (void *)EE_CONFIG_ADDRESS, sizeof(config));<br />
if (config.magic == 0x12ab) {<br />
// magic OK<br />
if (calc_block_crc(sizeof(config) - sizeof(unsigned), (unsigned char *)&config) ==<br />
config.crc) {<br />
// CRC ok<br />
return;<br />
}<br />
}<br />
memcpy_P(&config, &default_config, sizeof(config));<br />
}<br />
<br />
void write_config(void)<br />
{<br />
config.crc = calc_block_crc(sizeof(config) - sizeof(unsigned), (unsigned char *)&config);<br />
eeprom_write_block(&config, (void *)EE_CONFIG_ADDRESS, sizeof(config));<br />
}<br />
<br />
void show_menu(char *str)<br />
{<br />
sprintf_P(str, PSTR("Cougar OS controller firmware v%d.%d\r\n"),<br />
MAJOR_VERSION, MINOR_VERSION);<br />
uart_putstr(str);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void show_config(char *str)<br />
{<br />
sprintf_P(str, PSTR("Kp=%d Ki=%d\r\n"), config.Kp, config.Ki);<br />
uart_putstr(str);<br />
sprintf_P(str, PSTR("throttle_min_raw_counts=%u throttle_max_raw_counts=%u\r\n"),<br />
config.throttle_min_raw_counts, config.throttle_max_raw_counts);<br />
uart_putstr(str);<br />
sprintf_P(str, PSTR("throttle_pos_gain=%u throttle_pwm_gain=%u\r\n"),<br />
config.throttle_pos_gain, config.throttle_pos_gain);<br />
uart_putstr(str);<br />
sprintf_P(str, PSTR("current_ramp_rate=%d\r\n"), config.current_ramp_rate);<br />
uart_putstr(str);<br />
}<br />
<br />
int main(void)<br />
{<br />
int x;<br />
unsigned tm_show_data;<br />
unsigned char cmdpos, cmdok;<br />
char cmd[32];<br />
char str[80];<br />
<br />
#ifdef crc_address<br />
unsigned crc1, crc2;<br />
<br />
crc1 = pgm_read_word(crc_address); // read program CRC<br />
crc2 = calc_prog_crc(crc_address); // read program CRC<br />
if (crc1 != crc2) {<br />
// program CRC error<br />
while(1); // do nothing for ever<br />
}<br />
#endif<br />
<br />
wdt_enable(WDTO_250MS); // enable watchdog<br />
<br />
PORTD = 0xff & ~PD_LED & ~PD_CONTACTOR; // PORTD weak pullups, LED output pins low (LEDs off)<br />
DDRD = PD_LED & PD_CONTACTOR; // two pins outputs<br />
PORTC = ~PC_ANALOGS_USED; // weaks pull ups on _except_ for analog input pins<br />
PORTB = 0xff & ~PB_PWM; // PWM output low, other outputs high, weak pullups on<br />
DDRB = PB_PWM | PB_OC_CLEAR; // two pins outputs<br />
<br />
// External Vcc (5v) for analog reference<br />
ADMUX = (1 << REFS0);<br />
// enable ADC, prescale = 128, so conversion clock is 16M / 128 = 125KHz<br />
// a conversion take 13 cycles, at 125KHz equals 104uS<br />
// the fastest we can convert is 9.6 KHz<br />
// if we convert every other PWM cycle, that is 8KHz<br />
// see page 198 of ATMEG8 manual<br />
ADCSRA = (1 << ADEN) | (1 << ADPS2) | (1 << ADPS1) | (1 << ADPS0);<br />
// do a conversion on channel 2 - the first conversion takes 25 cycles - so do it now<br />
ADMUX = ADMUX = (1 << REFS0) | 2;<br />
ADCSRA = (1 << ADEN) | (1 << ADPS2) | (1 << ADPS1) | (1 << ADPS0) | (1 << ADSC);<br />
while (ADCSRA & (1 << ADSC));<br />
<br />
// set up input capture 1 interrupt at 976Hz<br />
// this is only for temporary timing until timer 1 is used for PWM<br />
// the reason for 976Hz instead of 1000Hz is explained below<br />
TCNT1 = 0; // load 16 bit counter 1<br />
ICR1 = (long)F_OSC / 976; // timer at 976 Hz<br />
TCCR1A = 0; // no output action on match<br />
// let counter 1 run at fosc, reset to 0 at ICR1<br />
TCCR1B = (1 << WGM13) | (1 << WGM12) | (1 << CS10);<br />
TIMSK = (1 << TICIE1); // enable input capture 1 interrupt<br />
<br />
read_config(); // read config from EEprom<br />
config_pi(); // configure PI loop from config structure<br />
// interrups are now enabled by config_pi() - sei() instruction in config_pi()<br />
<br />
idle_loopcount = wait_time(100); // wait 100mS and remember how many loops we did<br />
wdt_reset(); // kick watchdog<br />
// now that voltages have settled, measure Vref<br />
if (!measure_vref()) {<br />
// vref out of range<br />
while(1) {<br />
wdt_reset(); // kick watchdog<br />
}<br />
}<br />
// clear overcurrent fault (powerup in unknown state)<br />
clear_oc();<br />
<br />
// now configure timer 1 for PWM<br />
TIMSK = 0; // no timer 1 interrupt<br />
TCCR1B = 0; // stop counter 1<br />
TCNT1 = 0; // load 16 bit counter 1<br />
OCR1A = 0; // set initial PWM duty value to 0<br />
TCCR1A = (1 << COM1A1) | (1 << WGM11); // Pase Correct PWM mode, 9 bit<br />
TCCR1B = (1 << CS10); // Pre-scaler = 1<br />
OCR1A = 0; // again, just to be safe<br />
TIMSK = (1 << TOIE1); // enable overflow 1 interrupt<br />
// now the PWM frequency = 16000000 / (1 << 9) / 2<br />
// so PWM frequency = 16000000 / 1024 = 15625Hz<br />
// now, counter_1k is incremented every 16 interrupt, so 15625 / 16 = 976.5625Hz<br />
// this is why we run SIG_INPUT_CAPTURE1 at 976Hz<br />
<br />
setup_uart(19200, PARITY_NONE, BITS_8_1); // uart 19200,n,8,1<br />
show_menu(str); // might as well<br />
// init some time variables<br />
tm_show_data = get_time();<br />
// now listen on serial port for commands<br />
memset(cmd, 0, sizeof(cmd)); cmdpos = 0;<br />
while (1) {<br />
wdt_reset();<br />
x = uart_getch();<br />
if (x >= 0) {<br />
if (x != 0x0d) {<br />
// not a CR<br />
uart_putch(x); // echo the character back<br />
if (cmdpos < (sizeof(cmd) - 1)) {<br />
cmd[cmdpos++] = x; // add character to command string<br />
cmd[cmdpos] = 0; // and terminate command string<br />
}<br />
}<br />
else {<br />
// got a CR<br />
uart_putch(0x0a); uart_putch(0x0d); // echo back LF and CR<br />
cmdok = 0;<br />
if (cmdpos > 0) {<br />
for (x = 0; x < (int)(cmdpos - 1); x++) {<br />
if (cmd[x] == ' ') {<br />
// have a space character, terminate at this position<br />
// and get numeric value<br />
cmd[x] = 0; x = atoi(&cmd[x + 1]); cmdok = 1;<br />
}<br />
}<br />
}<br />
if (cmdok) {<br />
// cmd is string, x is numeric value<br />
if (!strcmp_P(cmd, PSTR("save"))) {<br />
write_config();<br />
sprintf_P(str, PSTR("configuration written to EE\r\n"));<br />
uart_putstr(str);<br />
}<br />
else if (!strcmp_P(cmd, PSTR("idle"))) {<br />
sprintf_P(str, PSTR("AVR %lu%% idle\r\n"),<br />
wait_time(100) * (long)100 / idle_loopcount);<br />
uart_putstr(str);<br />
}<br />
else if (!strcmp_P(cmd, PSTR("kp"))) {<br />
if ((unsigned)x <= 500) {<br />
config.Kp = x; config_pi();<br />
show_config(str);<br />
}<br />
}<br />
else if (!strcmp_P(cmd, PSTR("ki"))) {<br />
if ((unsigned)x <= 500) {<br />
config.Ki = x; config_pi();<br />
show_config(str);<br />
}<br />
}<br />
else if (!strcmp_P(cmd, PSTR("t-min-rc"))) {<br />
if ((unsigned)x <= 1023) {<br />
cli(); config.throttle_min_raw_counts = x; sei();<br />
show_config(str);<br />
}<br />
}<br />
else if (!strcmp_P(cmd, PSTR("t-max-rc"))) {<br />
if ((unsigned)x <= 1023) {<br />
cli(); config.throttle_max_raw_counts = x; sei();<br />
show_config(str);<br />
}<br />
}<br />
else if (!strcmp_P(cmd, PSTR("t-pos-gain"))) {<br />
if ((unsigned)x <= 128) {<br />
cli(); config.throttle_pos_gain = x; sei();<br />
show_config(str);<br />
}<br />
}<br />
else if (!strcmp_P(cmd, PSTR("t-pwm-gain"))) {<br />
if ((unsigned)x <= 128) {<br />
cli(); config.throttle_pwm_gain = x; sei();<br />
show_config(str);<br />
}<br />
}<br />
else if (!strcmp_P(cmd, PSTR("c-rr"))) {<br />
if ((unsigned)x <= 100) {<br />
cli(); config.current_ramp_rate = x; sei();<br />
show_config(str);<br />
}<br />
}<br />
}<br />
else show_menu(str);<br />
// reset command string<br />
cmdpos = 0; cmd[0] = 0;<br />
}<br />
}<br />
/* add non time-critical code below */<br />
fetch_rt_data();<br />
if (diff_time(tm_show_data) >= 200) {<br />
// 200mS passed since last time, adjust tm_show_data to trigger in 200mS again<br />
tm_show_data += 200;<br />
sprintf_P(str, PSTR("TR=%03d CR=%03d CF=%03d HS=%04u RT=%04u\r\n"),<br />
rt_data.throttle_ref, rt_data.current_ref, rt_data.current_fb,<br />
rt_data.raw_hs_temp, rt_data.raw_throttle);<br />
uart_putstr(str);<br />
}<br />
}<br />
return(0);<br />
}<br />
<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
== Cougar.h ==<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
#define MAJOR_VERSION 0<br />
#define MINOR_VERSION 1<br />
<br />
#define F_OSC 16000000 // oscillator-frequency in Hz<br />
<br />
#define PROGSTART 0x0000 // program start address<br />
<br />
#define EE_CONFIG_ADDRESS 0 // address of config in EEprom<br />
<br />
#define OC_CLEAR_ENABLED // defin to enable AVR to clear OC fault<br />
<br />
#define NUM_OC_CYCLES_OFF 4 // number of overcurrent cycles off (at 4KHz)<br />
<br />
#define MAX_CURRENT_REF 511 // max current ref into PI loop<br />
<br />
#define PINB_OC_STATE (1 << PINB0) // OC state (high means fault)<br />
#define PB_PWM (1 << PB1) // PWM output pin (high to turn FETs on)<br />
#define PB_OC_CLEAR (1 << PB2) // OC clear (low to clear, high for normal operation)<br />
<br />
#define PD_LED (1 << PD6) // IDLE LED - high to light LED<br />
#define PD_CONTACTOR (1 << PD7) // Contactor Opto LED - high to light LED<br />
<br />
// three analog inputs used, these pins must be inputs and weak pullups off<br />
#define PC_ANALOGS_USED ((1 << PC0) | (1 << PC1) | (1 << PC2))<br />
<br />
#define PARITY_NONE 0x00<br />
#define PARITY_EVEN 0x02<br />
#define PARITY_ODD 0x03<br />
<br />
#define BITS_7_1 0x02<br />
#define BITS_7_2 0x06<br />
#define BITS_8_1 0x03<br />
#define BITS_8_2 0x07<br />
<br />
#define UART_RXBUF_SIZE 16<br />
#define UART_TXBUF_SIZE 128<br />
<br />
// function prototypes<br />
<br />
// get character from uart fifo, return -1 if fifo empty<br />
int uart_getch(void);<br />
<br />
// put character to uart (return 1 if fifo full, else 0)<br />
unsigned char uart_putch(char c);<br />
<br />
// put string to uart<br />
void uart_putstr(char *str);<br />
<br />
// set up UART to specified baud, parity, and bits<br />
void setup_uart(unsigned long baud, unsigned char parity, unsigned char bits);<br />
<br />
</pre><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Serial.c ==<br />
<br />
<pre><br />
/*<br />
serial port support for cougar.c<br />
*/<br />
<br />
#include <avr/io.h><br />
#include <avr/interrupt.h><br />
#include <avr/iom8.h><br />
#include <stdio.h><br />
#include <stdlib.h><br />
#include <string.h><br />
<br />
#include "cougar.h"<br />
<br />
// UART (serial)<br />
typedef struct {<br />
unsigned char rxbuf[UART_RXBUF_SIZE];<br />
unsigned char txbuf[UART_TXBUF_SIZE];<br />
unsigned rxhead;<br />
unsigned rxtail;<br />
unsigned txhead;<br />
unsigned txtail;<br />
} uart_fifo_type;<br />
<br />
uart_fifo_type uart;<br />
<br />
/* uart receive interrupt */<br />
SIGNAL(SIG_UART_RECV)<br />
{<br />
unsigned char c;<br />
unsigned i;<br />
<br />
c = UDR;<br />
i = uart.rxhead + 1;<br />
if (i >= UART_RXBUF_SIZE) i = 0;<br />
if (i != uart.rxtail) {<br />
// fifo not full<br />
uart.rxbuf[uart.rxhead] = c;<br />
uart.rxhead = i;<br />
}<br />
}<br />
<br />
/* uart UDR empty interrupt */<br />
SIGNAL(SIG_UART_DATA)<br />
{<br />
unsigned i;<br />
<br />
i = uart.txtail;<br />
if (i != uart.txhead) {<br />
UDR = uart.txbuf[i++];<br />
if (i >= UART_TXBUF_SIZE) i = 0;<br />
uart.txtail = i;<br />
}<br />
else {<br />
// disable TX buffer empty interrupt<br />
UCSRB = (1 << RXEN) | (1 << TXEN) | (1 << RXCIE);<br />
}<br />
}<br />
<br />
// get character from uart fifo, return -1 if fifo empty<br />
int uart_getch(void)<br />
{<br />
unsigned char c;<br />
unsigned i, j;<br />
<br />
i = uart.rxtail;<br />
cli(); j = uart.rxhead; sei();<br />
if (i != j) {<br />
c = uart.rxbuf[i++];<br />
if (i >= UART_RXBUF_SIZE) i = 0;<br />
cli(); uart.rxtail = i; sei();<br />
return(c);<br />
}<br />
return(-1);<br />
}<br />
<br />
// put character to uart (return 1 if fifo full, else 0)<br />
unsigned char uart_putch(char c)<br />
{<br />
unsigned i, j;<br />
<br />
i = uart.txhead + 1;<br />
if (i >= UART_TXBUF_SIZE) i = 0;<br />
cli(); j = uart.txtail; sei();<br />
if (i == j) {<br />
// fifo full<br />
return(1);<br />
}<br />
uart.txbuf[uart.txhead] = c;<br />
cli(); uart.txhead = i; sei();<br />
// enable TX buffer empty interrupt<br />
UCSRB = (1 << RXEN) | (1 << TXEN) | (1 << RXCIE) | (1 << UDRIE);<br />
return(0);<br />
}<br />
<br />
// put string to uart<br />
void uart_putstr(char *str)<br />
{<br />
char ch;<br />
<br />
while (1) {<br />
ch = *str++;<br />
if (ch == 0) break;<br />
while (uart_putch(ch));<br />
}<br />
}<br />
<br />
// set up UART to specified baud, parity, and bits<br />
void setup_uart(unsigned long baud, unsigned char parity, unsigned char bits)<br />
{<br />
unsigned int ubrr;<br />
<br />
ubrr = (F_OSC / ((unsigned long)16 * baud)) - 1;<br />
UBRRL = ubrr & 0xff;<br />
UBRRH = ubrr >> 8;<br />
UCSRC = (parity << 4) | (bits << 1) | (1 << URSEL);<br />
UCSRB = (1 << RXEN) | (1 << TXEN) | (1 << RXCIE);<br />
}<br />
<br />
</pre><br />
--[[User:Adamj12b|Adamj12b]] 19:30, 5 October 2009 (EDT)<br />
<br />
<br />
== Serial Command List ==<br />
<br />
Serial Hardware is NOT RS232, it is FTDI 5v logic serial. Beware!<br />
<br />
'''Commands:''' <br />
<br />
Format - <br />
<br />
<Command><" "><INTEGER><br />
<br />
<SAVE><br />
<br />
'''Example:'''<br />
<br />
pctime 50<br />
<br />
save<br />
<br />
saves a new precharge time of 5 seconds<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
''save'' - Save setting<br />
<br />
''idle'' - ? Idle controller<br />
<br />
''restart'' - restart controller<br />
<br />
''reset-ah'' - reset Amp hours<br />
<br />
''pc-time'' - Precharge contactor/relay time<br />
<br />
''kp'' - PI loop proportional gain<br />
<br />
''ki'' - PI loop integreal gain<br />
<br />
''t-min-rc'' - config.throttle_min_raw_counts - throttle low voltage (pedal to metal)<br />
<br />
''t-max-rc'' - config.throttle_max_raw_counts - throttle high voltage (foot off pedal)<br />
<br />
''t-pos-gain'' - config.throttle_pos_gain - gain for actual throttle position<br />
<br />
''t-pwm-gain'' - config.throttle_pwm_gain - gain for pwm (voltage)<br />
<br />
''c-rr'' - config.current_ramp_rate - current ramp rate<br />
<br />
''rtd-period'' - Period between output of controller data to the serial port<br />
<br />
''pwm-filter'' - ?<br />
<br />
''motor-os-dt'' - Motor Overspeed detect time<br />
<br />
''pwm-deadzone'' - ?<br />
<br />
''motor-sc-amps''<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
'''DATA:'''<br />
<br />
If you set rtd-period # to a value in ms, this will be how often the controller spits out the data string with the real time parameters.<br />
<br />
The break down is as follows:<br />
<br />
<br />
TR = Controllers calculated throttle position. 0-511<br />
<br />
CR = Controllers current reference based on throttle and other factors. 0-511<br />
<br />
CF = Current feedback from LEM current sensor 0-511<br />
<br />
PW = PWM duty cycle of controller 0-511<br />
<br />
HS = Heat-sink Temp in raw ADC counts 0-1023<br />
<br />
RT = Raw Throttle counts from the ADC 0-1023<br />
<br />
FB = Fault Bits. Hex output with each fault and status code. Normal 00<br />
<br />
BA = Calculated Battery amps 0-511<br />
<br />
AH = Calculated Amp Hours consumed 0-999.9<br />
<br />
<br />
Here is an example string:<br />
<br />
TR=000 CR=000 CF=002 PW=000 HS=0315 RT=0716 FB=00 BA=000 AH=000.0<br />
<br />
<br />
This shows:<br />
<br />
<br />
TR=000 No throttle<br />
<br />
CR=000 Controller is not commanding any current<br />
<br />
CF=002 Current sensor reading of 002, it will fluctuate a few counts in increments of 002<br />
<br />
PW=000 No pwm output<br />
<br />
HS=0315 heatsink temp of 315 is about 76 ish F. <br />
<br />
RT=0716 The throttle all the way up value<br />
<br />
FB=00 No fault codes. this will change on HPL, pre-charge, overspeed, overtemp, and no throttle or current sensor<br />
<br />
BA=000 no battery current<br />
<br />
AH=000.0 no AH consumed because you havnt used any power yet. lol<br />
<br />
Link to Adam Brunettes [http://www.evvette.com/EVVette.com/RTD_Explorer.html] page with his software - RTD explorer that graphs this all automatically for you.</div>Daoxhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Open_ReVolt/Fab_FilesOpen ReVolt/Fab Files2018-07-09T22:04:38Z<p>Daox: Created page with "{{Open ReVolt Header}} == Fab Files for the ReVolt open source AC Motor Controller == ''Coming Soon.'' ---------------------------------------------------------------------..."</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Open ReVolt Header}}<br />
<br />
== Fab Files for the ReVolt open source AC Motor Controller ==<br />
<br />
''Coming Soon.''<br />
<br />
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
== Fab Files for the ReVolt open source SR Motor Controller ==<br />
<br />
''Coming Soon.''<br />
<br />
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
== Fab Files for the ReVolt/Cougar open source DC motor controller ==<br />
<br />
''Note: Rev 2D uses heavy duty PCB powerboard as opposed to milled copper/fibreglass boards.''<br />
<br />
[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/Cougar_Controller_fab_files.zip Controller Fab Files ZIP]--[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 21:34, 18 May 2009 (EDT)<br />
<br />
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
[http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/Cougar_Controller_fabfiles_rev2C.zip Cougar Controller FabFiles for Revision 2C ZIP] --[[User:roverT|roverT]] 01 Jul 2009 (EDT)<br />
<br />
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
Power Stage Gcode Files: --[[User:Adamj12b|Adamj12b]] 09:36, 25 August 2009 (EDT)<br />
<br />
Top Image:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Couger Top.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Top Gcode: <br />
[http://www.adambrunette.com/Cougar/Couger%20Top.nc Top Etch And Drill File]<br />
<br />
Bottom Image:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Couger Bottom.jpg]]<br />
<br />
Bottom Gcode:<br />
[http://www.adambrunette.com/Cougar/Couger%20Bottom.nc Bottom Etch]<br />
<br />
Layout Cad Files:<br />
[http://www.adambrunette.com/Cougar/Couger%20Cad%20Files.zip DXF Cad Layout Files]</div>Daoxhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Open_ReVolt/Power_boardOpen ReVolt/Power board2018-07-09T22:04:17Z<p>Daox: Created page with "{{Open ReVolt Header}} '''Power Section Components: Prices Last Verified on 2011-22-01''' {| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center"; border="1" ! Description !! Part Nu..."</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Open ReVolt Header}}<br />
<br />
'''Power Section Components: Prices Last Verified on 2011-22-01'''<br />
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center"; border="1" <br />
! Description !! Part Number !! Quantity !! Cost !! Supplier<br />
|-<br />
| Power Mosfet || [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=IRFP4668PBF-ND IRFP4668PBF] || 10 || $71.89 || Digikey<br />
|-<br />
| Power Diode || [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=497-3553-5-ND STTH6002CW] || 10 || $47.00 || Digikey<br />
|-<br />
| Power Capacitor ||[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=P11622-ND P11622-ND] || 16 || $60.16 || Digikey<br />
|-<br />
| Polypropylene Capacitor ||[http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=ECW-F2225JB ECW-F2225JB] || 4 || $7.08 || Digikey<br />
|-<br />
|Current Transducer || [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=398-1065-ND HASS 300-S] ||1 || $27.50 || Digikey<br />
|-<br />
| MOSFET Clamps || [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Aavid-Thermalloy/MAX08G/?qs=IQR8xM2KsGgn8sWnGiROuQ%3d%3d MAX08G] || 20 || $5.20 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|Thermal Isolation Pad || [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=BER231-ND BER231-ND] || 1/8th || $28.36 || Digikey<br />
|-<br />
|Etched PCB || [http://www.paulandsabrinasevstuff.com/store/page2.html Board (etched)] ||1 || $55.00 || Paul and Sabrina<br />
|-<br />
|Aluminum Heat Spreader: 0.75"x1.5"x8" || [http://www.mcmaster.com/#8975k451/=3ddi6r PN 8975K451] ||1 || $11.39 || McMaster-Carr<br />
|-<br />
|Aluminum Base Plate: 3/8"x8"x11" || ?? Where ever fine aluminum plates are sold ?? ||1 || $16 || Local Metal Shop<br />
|-<br />
|M- Bus Bar: 1/4"x3/4"x11.8", B+ and B-: 1/4"x3/4"x9.8" || [http://www.mcmaster.com/#8964k131/=3i373r PN 8964K131 ] ||3 || $33.75 || McMaster-Carr<br />
|-<br />
| 5/8" nylon spacers || [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=879K-ND 879K-ND] || 4 || $0.87 || Digikey<br />
|-<br />
| 1/4" nylon spacers || [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=876K-ND 876K-ND] || 4 || $0.64 || Digikey<br />
|-<br />
| || || Total: || $327.04 ||<br />
|}</div>Daoxhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Open_ReVolt/Control_boardOpen ReVolt/Control board2018-07-09T22:03:53Z<p>Daox: Created page with "{{Open ReVolt Header}} '''Bill of Materials, Open ReVolt Control Board Rev 2C: 09-22-2009''' {| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center"; border="1" ! Description !! Part..."</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Open ReVolt Header}}<br />
<br />
'''Bill of Materials, Open ReVolt Control Board Rev 2C: 09-22-2009'''<br />
{| class="wikitable" style="text-align:center"; border="1" <br />
! Description !! Part Number !! Vendor Link !! Reference Designator !! Qty !! Unit Cost(USD) !! Total Cost(USD) !! Unit Cost(AUD) !! Total Cost(AUD) !! Distributor<br />
|-<br />
|Electrolytic Capacitor, 470uf 25V || EEU-FC1E471 || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsCnlYck6hSqDNVLePXKBO0qpNye%2fEsK%2fI%3d EEU-FC1E471] || C1 || 1 || 0.57 || 0.57 || 1 || 1 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|Electrolytic Capacitor, Lo ESR, 100uf 25V || EEU-FC1E101S || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsCnlYck6hSqC6EvpC6iOvs78r2%2fvmoSgk%3d EEU-FC1E101S] || C13 || 1 || 0.23 || 0.23 || 0.41 || 0.41 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|Electrolytic Capacitor, 10uf 25V || UPW1E100MDD || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsCnlYck6hSqACmtJ2YRvYOGDNHnElGX6g%3d UPW1E100MDD] || C14 || 1 || 0.11 || 0.11 || 0.2 || 0.2 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|Ceramic Capacitor, 0.1uf 25V || K104K15X7RF5TH5 || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuAYrNc52CMZNaBwupcnfl2GHhuVIbtnIM%3d K104K15X7RF5TH5] || C2 C3 C4 C6 C7 C8 C9 C10 C11 C12 C15 C18 C19 || 13 || 0.06 || 0.78 || 0.11 || 1.43 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|Ceramic capacitor, .022uf 50V || RPER71H223K2K1A03B || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuAYrNc52CMZLdd0oiAwgv6SokL0MfslcI%3d RPER71H223K2K1A03B] || C22 C25 || 2 || 0.19 || 0.38 || 0.19 || 0.38 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|Ceramic Capacitor, COG,20pf 50V || RPE5C1H150J2P1Z03B || [http://mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt1mVBmZSXTPMsbzfcJa9gEgam%2fU5TTp0o%3d 140-50N2-200J-RC] || C23 C24 || 2 || 0.07 || 0.14 || 0.3 || 0.6 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|Ceramic Capacitor, 4.7uf 16V || FK26X7R1C475K || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuAYrNc52CMZDqsLtYNhfDK%2fGKUufpEEME%3d FK26X7R1C475K] || C5 C16 C17 C20 C21 || 5 || 0.29 || 1.45 || 0.51 || 2.55 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|RS232 Transceiver || TRS202ECN || [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/TRS202ECN/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtnIqnDeWcRHWI38aDrBTNBLAGTpxcqmuc%3d] || U4 || 1 || 1.12 || 1.12 || 1.66 || 1.66 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|Ultra fast rectifier diode.200V 3A DO-15 || STTH1R02QRL || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=STTH1R02QRLvirtualkey51120000virtualkey511-STTH1R02QRL STTH1R02QRL] || D1 || 1 || 0.57 || 0.57 || 0.57 || 0.57 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|Transient Voltage Suppressor, 18V || P6KE18A || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=P6KE18Avirtualkey51120000virtualkey511-P6KE18A P6KE18A] || D2 D6 || 2 || 0.37 || 0.74 || 0.74 || 0.74 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|Small signal diode || 1N4148TR || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMutXGli8Ay4kC4Bz7vbB60wMTAJSn%252bNt9k%3d 1N4148TR] || D3 || 1 || 0.03 || 0.03 || 0.06 || 0.06 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|5mm LED, Green || SSL-LX5093LGD || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuus4pmcqQnztbUTAnot12aKfGntohK8Ww%3d SSL-LX5093LGD] || D4 || 1 || 0.12 || 0.12 || ?? || ?? || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|5mm LED, Yellow || SSL-LX5093LYD || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuus4pmcqQnzgR91pXKdodmSzIV5sOMKOA%3d SSL-LX5093LYD] || D5 || 1 || 0.15 || 0.15 || 0.27 || 0.27 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|Zener Diode 8.2V 500mW || 1N5237B || [http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Fairchild-Semiconductor/1N5237B/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsnCtsnHQqDlTxbWudIpp9C0pu70KjwjwU%3d 1N5237B] || D7 || 1 || 0.04 || 0.04 || 0.11 || 0.11 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|Schottky Diode,1A 30V || 1N5818 || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMutXGli8Ay4kOnWbBYZueaHR%2f3ZZX7u%2f84%3d 1N5818] || D8 D9 || 2 || 0.09 || 0.18 || 0.16 || 0.32 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|3-pin rt angle header, .100” pitch || 22-05-3031 || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMukXCIZ6E1E4B72YUVByG9S5lsq5BYEnSc%3d 22-05-3031] || J2 || 1 || 0.52 || 0.52 || 0.92 || 0.92 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|6-pin header, 2X3, .100” pitch || 90131-0123 || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMukXCIZ6E1E4GNidyA06%2fy79PVfMzSQzrM%3d 90131-0123] || J4 || 1 || 0.37 || 0.37 || 0.65 || 0.65 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|4-pin MOLEX connector || 22-01-3047 || [http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/22-01-3047/?qs=cRUT3GdJqny7%252bjvo4bugHw%3d%3d 22-01-3047] || J3 || 1 || 0.29 || 0.29 || ?? || ?? || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|3-pin MOLEX connector || 22-01-3037 || [http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/22-01-3037/?qs=cRUT3GdJqnw5IA1z0J2xqA%3d%3d 22-01-3037] || J2 || 1 || 0.22 || 0.22 || ?? || ?? || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|3&4 pin housing crimp pins || 08-50-0114 || [http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/08-50-0114/?qs=BLN8Q0P37WapYBZgTV5Zeg%3d%3d 08-50-0114] || N/A || 7 || 0.11 || 0.77 || ?? || ?? || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|Common Mode Choke, 3mH 1A || RN102-1-02 || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=RN102-1-02virtualkey63120000virtualkey631-RN102-1/02 RN102-1-02] || L1 || 1 || 1.68 || 1.68 || 1.68 || 1.68 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|P channel Mosfet, 60V 17A || FQPF27P06 || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=FQPF27P06virtualkey51210000virtualkey512-FQPF27P06 FQPF27P06] || Q1 || 1 || 1.04 || 1.04 || ?? || ?? || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|NPN Transistor, 40V 200mA || 2N3904TFR || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuDHCWHhuFg%252bWn6eZWqyhR2OKKBRFhqSqM%3d 2N3904TFR] || Q2 || 1 || 0.08 || 0.08 || 0.14 || 0.14 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|PNP Transistor, 40V 200mA || 2N3906TFR || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuDHCWHhuFg%252bUt75U4khoVwowhxykEqZQk%3d 2N3906TFR] || Q3 || 1 || 0.07 || 0.07 || 0.13 || 0.13 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|1W resistor 5% 1 Ohm || 294-1.0-RC || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsCQIGbZVRXMFOkr%2fJRGMWJSWsWzTDM%2fHE%3d 294-1.0-RC] || R1 || 1 || 0.18 || 0.18 || 0.32 || 0.32 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|1/4W resistor 1%, 10K || MF1/4DC1002F || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtMTfExsNintaV6tdIyR0vgH5x5pPOZFNA%3d MF1/4DC1002F] || R12 R13 || 2 || 0.06 || 0.12 || 0.11 || 0.22 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|1/4W resistor 1%, 750 Ohm || MF1/4DC7500F || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtMTfExsNintbnLGTORVxfOnydIiQG%2fT6Q%3d MF1/4DC7500F] || R14 || 1 || 0.06 || 0.06 || 0.11 || 0.11 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|¼ W resistor 1%, 330Omh || MF1/4DC3300F || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtMTfExsNintQpAvJXrugjU5KX0ud7w1J0%3d MF1/4DC3300F] || R22 R23 || 2 || 0.06 || 0.12 || 0.11 || 0.22 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|¼ W resistor 1%, 220Omh || MF1/4DC2200F || [http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/KOA-Speer/MF1-4DC2200F/?qs=08LOM%252b2KU0b4jdsk8mjRmA%3d%3d MF1/4DC2200F] || R15 || 1 || 0.06 || 0.06 || 0.11 || 0.11 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|1/4W resistor 1%, 3K || MF1/4DC3001F || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtMTfExsNintUiD6ThywFkmCZJ53j76lqE%3d MF1/4DC3001F] || R18 R28 || 2 || 0.06 || 0.12 || 0.11 || 0.2 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|¼ W resistor 1%, 4.7K || MF1/4DC4701F || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtMTfExsNintcz5xvIsmFVb44QUT9DMObo%3d MF1/4DC4701F] || R2 R3 R4 R5 R6 R10 R16 R24 R30 || 9 || 0.06 || 0.54 || 0.11 || 0.99 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|1/4W resistor1%, 20K || MF1/4DC2002F || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtMTfExsNintZyQ59SxuWMmzlTXmRqgb5M%3d MF1/4DC2002F] || R27 || 1 || 0.06 || 0.06 || 0.11 || 0.11 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|¼W resistor 1%, 3.74K || MF1/4DC3741F || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtMTfExsNintVklHVCN9JIJCKp3ZQ73twc%3d MF1/4DC3741F] || R29 || 1 || 0.06 || 0.06 || 0.11 || 0.11 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|1/4W resistor 1%, 1K || MF1/4DC1001F || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtMTfExsNintcQZaKZohxLGzucZoOhkK80%3d MF1/4DC1001F] || R7 R11 R17 R19 R20 R21 R25 R26 R31 || 9 || 0.06 || 0.54 || 0.11 || 0.99 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|1/4W resistor 1% 2K || MF1/4DC2001F || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtMTfExsNintc7qPMoqugSHDGKxSviIIE4%3d MF1/4DC2001F] || R8 R9 || 2 || 0.06 || 0.12 || 0.11 || 0.22 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|1/4W resistor 1% 22 Ohm || 271-22-RC || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=271-22-RCvirtualkey21980000virtualkey271-22-RC 271-22-RC] || GR1 ... GR10 || 10 || 0.09 || 0.90 || ?? || ?? || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|10K NTC Thermister || B57862S103F40 || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv9eKVyXEc%252bhAZUpToxTU3S%252bV0oBOQFb6k%3d B57862S103F40] || RT1 || 1 || 2.41 || 2.41 || 4.23 || 4.23 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|Linear Regulator +5V 1A || LM7805CT || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtUqDgmOWBjgPJMQlYvsHAW%252bBbwCYnQla0%3d LM7805CT] || U1 || 1 || 0.37 || 0.37 || 0.65 || 0.65 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|Presion shunt reference,2.5V || LM4040D251LP || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuBck1X%252b7j9fK0Q2jxjfQGggT3eMS8uGEk%3d LM4040D25ILP] || U10 || 1 || 0.72 || 0.72 || 1.12 || 1.12 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|Optocoupler, fet output || TLP222G (F) || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMt82OzCyDsLFJY8BJ1bAr52YKoL2mlHFnc%3d TLP222G] || U11 || 1 || 1.35 || 1.35 || 2.37 || 2.37 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|Isolated 12V-12V DC/DC Converter 6W || EC4A02H || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtwaiKVUtQsNVEV%2fwrjnskQvJKQLG%252b%2fma8%3d EC4A02H] || U2 || 1 || 15.58 || 15.58 || 27.34 || 27.34 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|ATMega168 Microcontroller || ATMEGA168-20PU || [http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Atmel/ATmega168-20PU/?qs=aqrrBurbvGdMdllC0pUwIg%3d%3d] || U3 || 1 || 3.66 || 3.66 || 3.66 || 3.66 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|Q 2-input pos-NAND Gate || MC74HC00N || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtMa9lbYwD6ZPgGq6Uv7B3Jx%252blyGTxa1Os%3d MC74HC00 (M74HC00B1R)] || U5A U5B U5C U5D || 1 || 0.31 || 0.31 || || || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|Optocoupler, high speed CMR || HCPL-4504-000E || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs50KUSuyRkpmqwble0%2fe0H8CB3tV%252bFmmI%3d HCPL-4504-000E] || U6 || 1 || 1.89 || 1.89 || 3.32 || 3.32 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|12 Amp Mosfet Driver || MIC4451YN || [http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=576-1209-ND MIC4451YN] || U7 || 1 || 2.48 || 2.48 || 2.48 || 2.48 || Digi-Key<br />
|-<br />
|Dual Comparator || LM393NG || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMuS%2fmO2LfY7hl8lkHciDoRI9sFD%2f%2f%2fPhHI%3d LM393NG] || U8 || 1 || 0.37 || 0.37 || 0.65 || 0.65 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|Optocoupler, transistor output || HCPL-817-000E || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvoTN%2fLRl0ZKcPkcGnxLYKUIGLe0%252bIwbWc%3d HCPL-817-000E] || U9 || 1 || 0.23 || 0.23 || 0.41 || 0.41 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|Trim Pot, Top Adj, 500 Ohm .5W || 3362P-1-501LF || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=3362P-1-501LFvirtualkey65210000virtualkey652-3362P-1-501LF 3362P-1-501LF] || VR1 || 1 || 0.83 || 0.83 || 0.83 || 0.83 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|16 Mhz Crystal || FOXLF160-20 || [http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtg8rPr%252bGIKJlzb9zBxq%252bSRFg%252b%252br7ORuKw%3d FOXLF160-20] || Y1 || 1 || 0.47 || 0.47 || 0.83 || 0.83 || Mouser<br />
|-<br />
|Control board PCB || N/A || [http://www.paulandsabrinasevstuff.com/store/page2.html control board] || || 1 || $21.00 || $21.00 || || || Paul and Sabrina<br />
|-<br />
| || || || ||Total || $62.09 ||$67.80|| ???? || ||<br />
|}</div>Daoxhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Open_ReVolt/PCB_SchematicsOpen ReVolt/PCB Schematics2018-07-09T22:03:22Z<p>MetroMPG: </p>
<hr />
<div>{{Open ReVolt Header}}<br />
<br />
== Open ReVolt - CellTop Battery Management System (Rev1) ==<br />
<br />
''' CellTop Module: '''<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sUomOuSIjY63K Preliminary BOM (pdf) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 04 Dec 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sXu3rGSUiuaUc Preliminary Schematic (pdf) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 04 Dec 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sK1uiDx9qb7YD Preliminary PCB Artwork (zip) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 04 Dec 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s28ADmsLHA88G Preliminary Firmware (zip) v1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 06 Dec 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
''' CellTop Master: '''<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s5mq5YCi6YjXO Preliminary BOM (pdf) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 06 Dec 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s4MFQqkmu13ML Preliminary Schematic (pdf) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 04 Dec 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1scziGCXNZJMKr Preliminary PCB Artwork (zip) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 04 Dec 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1shxpnYU5Ngbg4 Preliminary Firmware (zip) v1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 06 Dec 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
''' CellTop Documents: '''<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s0uWofVYGE5Eh Preliminary BMS User Manual (pdf) rev1.1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 06 Dec 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
== Open ReVolt - DC Charger Controller 6Kw (Rev3) ==<br />
<br />
[http://www.flickr.com/photos/adambrunette/5576439199/sizes/l/in/photostream/ Preliminary PCB Layout -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 05 April 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[http://www.flickr.com/photos/adambrunette/5576439151/sizes/o/in/photostream/ Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 05 April 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
== Open ReVolt - Cougar 1000 Amp DC motor controller (Rev2A) ==<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1scXBEcCWHENHN Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sXR1VWbFY87D4 Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sUsqETB3N8oV1 Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[Preliminary Firmware -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
== Open ReVolt - Cougar 1000 Amp DC motor controller (Rev1A) ==<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sEYd13KtqPKQ5 Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1stkveleELMIC8 Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1stcUKXgJItXk7 Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sHJFxDBK3ObI7 Preliminary Firmware -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
== Open ReVolt - Cougar 1000 Amp DC Mosfet Power Board (Rev2A) ==<br />
<br />
[Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sDiq0XqTVqeyX Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
== Open ReVolt - Cougar 1000 Amp DC Mosfet Power Board (Rev1A) ==<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sOSW0TgM2d0y0 Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sjGiidbRQ0qOp Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
== Open ReVolt - Cougar 1000 Amp DC Mosfet Driver Board (Rev5A) ==<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sD6LzJxAMwvtM Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sQ0pzY4VDcAwp Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sBlTxFOxFCFFR Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 23 August 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
== Open ReVolt - Cougar 1000 Amp DC Mosfet Driver Board (Rev1A) ==<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sDdsf6n9VKLEd Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s5OKJGCOWwcEJ Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sF35Efjb4SCip Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
== Open ReVolt - Hall Effect Current Sensor Board (Rev1A) ==<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sPlltzzhLqxfF Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sHici53T0FAOz Preliminary PCB Assembly -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 03 May 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sz9IOCpgCyC6L Preliminary PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 22 March 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
== Open ReVolt - LCD Instrumentation Controller (Rev1) ==<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1siYJfUUU3e0kK Preliminary BOM (pdf) rev1.4 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 July 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sp06BvWTqvs3F Preliminary BOM (excel) rev1.4 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 July 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1spUClAWf8vqrU Preliminary Schematic rev1 -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 July 2011(EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sugjur1LFWOAA Preliminary PCB Artwork rev1 --[[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 July 2011(EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s8vMJ61vDESN2 Preliminary PCB User Manual rev1.4 --[[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 July 2011(EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sPmgPBC108Wgy Preliminary Firmware v1.4 --[[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 July 2011(EDT)]<br />
<br />
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
== Open ReVolt - AC Motor Controllers ==<br />
<br />
'''Paul's ReVolt/AC Motor Controller'''<br />
<BR>Schematic and PCB are in DesignSpark format.<br />
<BR>Still under development. See: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-3-phase-inverter-ac-controller-10839.html the forum thread.]<br />
<br />
'''2014 Oct 4th:'''<br />
<BR>[https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B4lcT_Jmb67Qd2QxYTk0Z1RqWFE&usp=sharing SCH, PCB, BOM and code]<br />
<br />
'''2010 Sept 21:'''<BR><br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s5zHMQpeGfbap Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]]]<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sYLaUVLcWOoiL Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]]]<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sYhvximLJKQa6 Preliminary PCB Artwork --[[User:sawickm|sawickm]]]<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Collin's ReVolt/VLA500-01 IGBT driver Interface Project (2011 Nov 4) :'''<br />
<br />
[[http://code.google.com/p/revolt-ac-controller] VLA500-01 IGBT driver Interface Project -- <br />
[[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 04 Nov 2011 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
== Open ReVolt - SR Motor Controller (Rev.A) ==<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1srbpZ32Vr19de Preliminary BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 10 Sept 2010 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1stsgq6v9aYC42 Preliminary Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 10 Sept 2010 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1scWPEOCH6j2IA Preliminary PCB Artwork --[[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 10 Sept 2010 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
== Open ReVolt - Cougar 500 Amp DC motor controller (Rev2D) ==<br />
<br />
'''Added File Links:'''<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s7mT29cH5qNDP Reference BOM -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 17 October 2012 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1s5LcFcizgkxSi Reference Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 17 October 2012 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sf9j9AFw34nfS Reference PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 17 October 2012 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
'''Original Quick reference schematics:'''<br />
<br />
[http://www.dancook.name/cougar_controller/CougarController_2D_1s.pdf Controller Schematic v2D PDF --[[User:illuminateddan|illuminateddan]] 2 June 2010] (Broken Link)<br />
<br />
[http://www.dancook.name/cougar_controller/cougar_power_2d.pdf Powerboard Schematic v2D PDF --[[User:illuminateddan|illuminateddan]] 2 June 2010] (Broken Link)<br />
<br />
[http://www.dancook.name/cougar_controller/Cougar_build_test_notes.pdf Build and testing notes v2D PDF --[[User:illuminateddan|illuminateddan]] 2 June 2010] (Broken Link)<br />
<br />
'''Original Full archives from MCUDOGS inc schematics, pcb files and software:'''<br />
<br />
[http://users.tpg.com.au/adslh5rj/cougar%20controller/power1d.zip Power board V1d altium files --[[User:mcudogs|mcudogs]] 15 Sep 2009 (EDT)] (Broken Link)<br />
<br />
[http://users.tpg.com.au/adslh5rj/cougar%20controller/controller2d.zip Controller board V2d altium files --[[User:mcudogs|mcudogs]] 15 Sep 2009 (EDT)] (Broken Link)<br />
<br />
[http://www.dancook.name/cougar_controller/cougarpics.pdf Pictures of the cougar 2D being built (from Ian Bartie) PDF --[[User:illuminateddan|illuminateddan]] 2 June 2010] (Broken Link)<br />
<br />
Please note: The current software does not utilise the additional pins in the new hardware.<br />
<br />
[http://www.dancook.name/cougar_controller/Assembly_Directions_March_2010.pdf Assembly instructions for ORIGINAL hardware v2C PDF --[[User:illuminateddan|illuminateddan]] 2 June 2010] (Broken Link)<br />
<br />
These assembly instructions detail the original boards build processes and are useful for general reference. This was released by MPaulHolmes on his site, it is included here for accesability and completeness.There is also this forum thread on assembly which is most useful. <br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/open-revolt-assembly-faqs-12925.html ]<br />
<br />
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
== Open ReVolt - Cougar 500 Amp DC motor controller (Rev2C) == <br />
<br />
'''Added File Links:'''<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1slrYVfykEpb0V Release BOM Controller -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 October 2012 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sSGzSxxkzUU4E Release Schematic -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 October 2012 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sDEErY2VvmJAf Release PCB Artwork -- [[User:sawickm|sawickm]] 13 October 2012 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[http://www.adambrunette.com/firmware/ Release Firmware - Archive] 13 October 2012 (EDT)<br />
<br />
[http://www.evvette.com/EVVette.com/RTD_Explorer.html Release Software - ReVolt RTD Explore] 13 October 2012 (EDT)<br />
<br />
'''Original File Links:'''<br />
<br />
[http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/Cougar_Controller_Changes_for_Revision_2C.doc Cougar Controller Changes for Revision 2C DOC --[[User:roverT|roverT]] 01 Jul 2009 (EDT)] (Broken Link)<br />
<br />
[http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/bottom_layer_rev2C.pdf Bottom Layer rev2C PDF --[[User:roverT|roverT]] 01 Jul 2009 (EDT)] (Broken Link)<br />
<br />
[http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/top_layer_rev2C.pdf Top Layer rev2C PDF --[[User:roverT|roverT]] 01 Jul 2009 (EDT)] (Broken Link)<br />
<br />
[http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/component_layer_rev2C.pdf Component Layer rev2C PDF --[[User:roverT|roverT]] 01 Jul 2009 (EDT)] (Broken Link)<br />
<br />
[http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/Cougar_Controller_Rev2C_Schematic.pdf Controller Schematic PDF rev2C PDF --[[User:roverT|roverT]] 01 Jul 2009 (EDT)] (Broken Link)<br />
<br />
[http://home.cogeco.ca/~tkooistra/Cougar_Controller_Rev2C_Schematic_All.pdf Controller Schematic PDF rev2C All PDF --[[User:roverT|roverT]] 01 Jul 2009 (EDT)] (Broken Link)<br />
<br />
[[Open ReVolt Rev2C Mouser BOM Cut/Paste Import]]<br />
- Cut and Paste this into the Mouser BOM import tool to load all the control board parts. Be sure to check for items that are temporarily out of stock.<br />
<br />
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
== Open ReVolt - Cougar 500 Amp DC motor controller (Rev2B) == <br />
<br />
<br />
[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/bottom_layer.pdf Bottom Layer Schematic PDF --[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 21:32, 18 May 2009 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/top_layer.pdf Top Layer Schematic PDF --[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 21:32, 18 May 2009 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/top_and_component.pdf Top and Component Schematic PDF --[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 21:32, 18 May 2009 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/component_layer.pdf Component Layer Schematic PDF --[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 21:32, 18 May 2009 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/Cougar_Controller_Rev2B_Schematic.pdf Controller Schematic Rev2B PDF --[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 21:32, 18 May 2009 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
[http://www.zerogasoline.com/images/stories/cougarcontroller/Cougar_Controller_Rev2B_Schematic_All.pdf Controller Schematic Rev2B ALL PDF --[[User:ZeroGasoline|ZeroGasoline]] 21:32, 18 May 2009 (EDT)]<br />
<br />
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<br />
== Open ReVolt - Controller Settings ==<br />
[https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sjc9rcEg4FisL ReVolt Control Parameters.doc ]<br />
<br />
[[Open ReVolt/Controllersetting|Cougar Controller Setting Database]]<br />
<br />
== Open ReVolt - Software ==<br />
[http://www.evvette.com/EVVette.com/RTD_Explorer.html Adam's RTD Explore]<br />
<br />
[https://www.launchpad.net/cougard Greg's CougArd Explore]<br />
<br />
[http://live.gnome.org/moserial moserial] An open source, easy to use terminal program.<br />
<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-diy-144v-motor-controller-6404-479.html#post238071 How to setup moserial for the Cougar]<br />
<br />
== Open ReVolt - Case ==<br />
[[Open ReVolt/Case|Cougar Case]]<br />
<br />
== Open ReVolt - Problems/Failures ==<br />
<br />
'''NOTE:''' This section is to post problems/failures that occurred in the construction and installation of ReVolt Controllers. <br />
<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-diy-144v-motor-controller-6404-374.html#post191429 Joe's Cougar Controller failure, repair, and fix]<br />
<br />
== Open ReVolt - Testing ==<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/revolt-open-source-dc-controller-beta-testing-9325.html Revolt Open Source DC Controller Beta Testing]</div>Daoxhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Open_ReVolt/CaseOpen ReVolt/Case2018-07-09T21:21:42Z<p>Daox: Created page with "{{Open ReVolt Header}} The Cougar Case is a pre-fabricated case made in Australia. [http://www.hometheatre.net.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=57_61&products_id=19..."</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Open ReVolt Header}}<br />
<br />
The Cougar Case is a pre-fabricated case made in Australia.<br />
<br />
[http://www.hometheatre.net.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=57_61&products_id=195&zenid=a21fbd2e8985b95d0e580bb055b446fa Cougar Case]<br />
<br />
Paul's original design used a flat aluminum base plate, U-shaped aluminum cover and plastic end plates.<br />
<br />
The base plate was 8"x11"x3/8" aluminum. The material and thickness were chosen for heat dissipation rather than strength.<br />
<br />
The sides and top were bent from a 16"x11"x1/8" piece of aluminum. The enclosed volume was approximately 11" x 6-3/4" x 4", with 1/2" outward-facing mounting wings.<br />
<br />
An aluminum base plate was chosen primarily for its good thermal conductivity. It's much less expensive and lighter than the few alternate choices (e.g. copper or silver). Using aluminum for the upper case avoided dissimilar metallic joints, and provided some additional cooling surface.<br />
<br />
Using conductive material for most of the case blocks some of electrical noise. Aluminum does an excellent job of blocking EMI, although this advantage is greatly reduced with a non-metallic end piece.<br />
<br />
Internally the active power devices (e.g. MOSFETs and diodes) are thermally connected but electrically isolated from a heat spreader bar. The first few units used a 0.75"x1.5"x8" copper heat spreader, while later units used aluminum bars with the same dimensions.<br />
<br />
The heat spreader was stacked with the main power board and bolted to the base. Four fasteners were used, with with 2.5" long 1/4" screws covered with heat shrink going through 5/16" holes in the heat spreader and circuit board.</div>Daoxhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Open_ReVolt/ControllersettingOpen ReVolt/Controllersetting2018-07-09T21:21:23Z<p>Daox: Created page with "{{Open ReVolt Header}} '''Ki and Kp''' adjust how quickly the motor current matches what you are inputting via the accelerator. Different values will affect the response an..."</p>
<hr />
<div>{{Open ReVolt Header}}<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Ki and Kp''' adjust how quickly the motor current matches what you are inputting via the accelerator. Different values will affect the response and will cause oscillations and a feeling of jerkiness if they don't match the motor and system voltage.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''t-pos-gain and t-pwm gain''' adjust the sensitivity of the accelerator. The equation in the code is:<br />
<br />
<br />
Throttle = throttle_input * t-pos-gain / 8 - PWM * t-pwm-gain / 8<br />
<br />
<br />
Because PWM is essentially related to vehicle speed, the default setting of 8 and 0 (for t-pos-gain and t-pwm-gain, respectively) mean that the output current will always be equal to the throttle input. Changing the settings to 16 and 0 would make the throttle twice as sensitive since the code will multiply the throttle input by a factor of 2. <br />
<br />
<br />
Increasing the value of t-pwm-gain will cause the throttle to decrease as the vehicle speeds up and has the effect of making the throttle less sensitive at higher speeds. This is useful for applications that require high amps at low speed and less sensitive throttle at higher speeds. Settings of 16 and 8 would make the throttle twice as sensitive at low speeds; the throttle will become less sensitive as the vehicle speed (and PWM) increase. If PWM were to go to its max, the throttle would return to normal sensitivity. A setting of 16 and 12 would have a similar effect, but the throttle would be at normal sensitivity at 66% PWM and only half sensitivity at 100% PWM.<br />
<br />
<br />
'''c-rr''' defines how quickly the throttle responds to controller input. Higher values create a more responsive feel while lower values are smoother and more gradual.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
The table below includes controller settings for various applications. These are all settings that are changeable via serial cable and terminal software. Use this information to help tune your controller - Once it's working well, add your data to the table!<br />
<br />
{| class="wikitable" style="margin: 1em auto 1em auto; text-align:center; " border="1"<br />
|+ '''Application and Controller Settings Database'''<br />
! N || UserName || Pack Voltage || Motor Brand/Model || Vehicle Weight || Kp || Ki || t-pos-gain || t-pwm-gain || c-rr || Comments<br />
<br />
|-<br />
! 1<br />
| Joe || 144V || Impulse 9 || 3750 lb || 2 || 20 || 17 || 9 || 6 || Very smooth 100% of the time. Throttle settings have a very natural feel <br />
<br />
|-<br />
! 2<br />
| Adam || 36V || GE 6" || 1125 lb || 300 || 150 || 8 || 0 || 6 || Very smooth 100% of the time. A side note, This is a direct drive golf cart. <br />
<br />
|-<br />
! 3<br />
| Chris || 48V (maybe upgrade to higher in future) || ?? (Pulled off Scrapped Fork Truck; tag was unreadable) || ?? lb || ??? || ??? || ? || ? || ? || Just finished building controller, still collaborating for my EV Motorcycle<br />
<br />
|-<br />
! 4<br />
| Mike || 96V || ADC L91-4003 || 3000 lb || 6 || 50 || 17 || 9 || 15 || Very smooth now: after building my controller I ran on the settings installed by Paul i.e. 2, 160, 0, 0, 6. New setting have removed the lag time at start off to a smoother, linear performance, i.e. 0-40 MPH 12 seconds at new settings. 2,500 miles and counting.<br />
<br />
|-<br />
! 5<br />
| Greg || 144V || Impulse 9 || 2200 lb || 2 || 11 || 17 || 0 || 6 || I started with Joe's settings, but it felt a bit to lively, probably due to my car being much lighter. The weight is an estimate, still need to get it weighed.</div>Daoxhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Road_Load_EquationRoad Load Equation2018-07-09T21:20:50Z<p>Daox: Created page with "To return to the main simulations page<br> Simulation and calculations<br> The road load equation describes all the forces applied to your ca..."</p>
<hr />
<div>To return to the main simulations page<br><br />
[[Simulation_and_calculations|Simulation and calculations]]<br><br />
<br />
<br />
The road load equation describes all the forces applied to your car: aerodynamic drag, rolling resistance, and braking. [http://ecomodder.com/forum/tool-aero-rolling-resistance.php EcoModder's calculator] can crunch these numbers for you for steady state driving on flat ground, if you know a few parameters such as your car's mass, CdA, and CRR. Looking through the equations behind the calculator will give you insight into what aspects of your car and driving affect your fuel economy.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Aerodynamic drag''' is given by F = ½ * Cd * A * ρ * V².<br />
<br />
Cd*A is drag coefficient times frontal area. You can look up these values for your car in the wiki [link]. Cd describes the smoothness of the vehicle's shape, but frontal area is just as important. These variables never appear seperately from each other in the physics. Much of our work on EcoModder is an effort to improve our Cd, to move through the air while disturbing as little of it as possible.<br />
<br />
ρ is the density of air, which is around 1.3kg/m³, but varies with temperature and barometric pressure. Your car will cut through the air better when the air is thinner, e.g. when it's hotter, or at higher elevations. Don't ignore this term.<br />
<br />
V² is your vehicle's airspeed, SQUARED. This means that driving twice as fast means four times as much aerodynamic drag. A headwind or even a crosswind will give you an airspeed higher than the value on your speedometer. A crosswind will also increase the CdA of a car that's optimized for driving forward, such as a bus, tractor trailer, or a Prius.<br />
<br />
Cars and bicycles generally spend the majority of their energy overcoming aerodynamic drag. You can improve your fuel economy by reducing any of the factors in the above equation: slower speeds, a more slippery shape, a narrower or shorter car, or thinner air. Note that aerodynamic drag is not affected by mass (assuming that weight of that mass doesn't deflect your suspension).<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
'''Rolling resistance''' = CRR * weight = CRR * mass * gravitational acceleration<br />
<br />
CRR is your coefficient of rolling resistance, a property dependent on your tire and the road surface. Low rolling resistance (LRR) tires are an excellent way to reduce your CRR.<br />
<br />
USCS people will probably use lbs for weight. The metric system makes it clear that mass is an amount of material (measurable in kg), while weight is a force due to gravity.<br />
<br />
Note that according to this simplified model, the force of rolling resistance is the same regardless of vehicle speed, while aerodynamic drag varies with V². The amount of rolling resistance per mile depends only on your vehicle's weight and CRR. In reality, your CRR rises significantly above about 50mph, but for most cars, aerodynamic drag force completely dominates the equation at those speeds.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
So, the road load equation for steady state (constant speed) driving on flat land with no wind is:<br />
<br />
F = ½*CdA*ρ*V² + CRR*m*g.<br />
<br />
This makes for simple math, but it really only applies to highway driving, and even then not all the time. Still, studying the steady state road load gives you insight into what parameters of your car and driving cause you to spend the most gas.</div>Daoxhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Block_HeaterBlock Heater2018-07-09T21:20:07Z<p>Daox: Created page with "Back to main mod page Frame| Image:universalheater...."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Drivetrain_Mods_-_Engine_Accessory|Back to main mod page]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:BlockHeater.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]<br />
[[Image:universalheater.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Frame|]]<br />
'''Introduction'''<br><br />
Block heaters slowly pre-warm the engine before starting with a 200 to 600 watt 110volt heating element that is directly installed into the engine block. The reduced warm-up time can dramatically improve fuel economy, especially for short trips. It is recommended to put the heater on a timer that starts to heat the engine no more than about 3 hours before departure to avoid wasting electricity. The ultimate way to warm the engine faster and use less electrical power is to use the biggest block heater you can get your hands on, if one isn't enough use two. With multiple high wattage block heaters it becomes possible to warm the engine up faster and by default disbursing less heat into the surrounding environment. This cuts warm up times down to well under an hour. <br><br />
Use immersion heaters that come in direct contact with engine coolant for best result. Only use stick on heaters as a last resort.<br><br />
Not to be confused with high power coolant warmers, these usually require forced circulation and are fuel burning, 110 or 220 volt powered.<br />
<br />
== Instructions for mod ==<br />
Refer to workshop manual and installation instructions for block heaters for installation methods<br><br />
<br><br />
See how to's for some car specific instructions in the references at the bottom of this page.<br><br />
The block heater shown to the right is a Kat's universal 400 watt block heater. It has 3/4 inch male pipe threads making it able to thread into lots of places.<br />
<br />
== User experiences ==<br />
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table<br><br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1<br />
|+ User data<br />
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link<br />
|-<br />
|Doax || Toyota, matrix, 2003 || ~$60 USD || ~ 1.5 Hours || || || ~4% (During winter less than 2MPG) no hard data just rough estimation. ||[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/geo-metro-block-heater-how-5682.html Metro block heater install] (not Doax's install) <br />
|-<br />
|TomO || 1994 Honda Civc VX || $45 USD || < 1 Hours || 43.12 || 44.93 || 4.2% (1.81 MPG) tank to tank data, but consistent route and driving || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/civic-block-heater-install-765.html VX block heater install]<br />
|-<br />
|Echo-Francis || Toyota Echo 2005 || $50 || 2 Hours || || || Not tested. My engine defenitely start well when cold, i'm saving. || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/echo-troll-modding-thread-2005-toyota-echo-19053.html Echo-Francis Block Heater]<br />
|-<br />
|Oil Pan 4 || Chevy suburban diesel 84 || $100 USD || 3.5 Hours || || || FE effect untested. Was able to raise coolant temperature from -2'C to 22'C in 15 minutes with out running the engine || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/fast-warm-up-ideas-3500w-engine-warmer-23893.html 3500 watt universal fit coolant heater]<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Problems / Consequences of mod ==<br />
- User of electricity to heat car before traveling may outweigh the environmental and financial savings of modification<br><br />
- Idle reduction<br><br />
- Enter the much more efficient closed loop mode sooner.<br><br />
- Remove frost so you can see, avoid crashing into objects.<br><br />
<br />
== References ==<br />
=== Forum thread links ===<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mini-experiments-300w-vs-800w-block-heater-warm-817.html Mini experiments: 300w vs. 800w block heater warm up time]<br />
<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/geo-metro-block-heater-how-5682.html Geo Metro block heater - How To]<br />
<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/civic-block-heater-install-765.html Civic VX block heater install]<br />
<br />
[[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/2003-toyota-matrix-block-heater-387.html 2003 Toyota Matrix Block Heater]]<br />
<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/fast-warm-up-ideas-3500w-engine-warmer-23893.html Fast warm up ideas, 3500w coolant heater]<br />
<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/fast-warm-up-ideas-5-500-watt-19-a-32503.html 5,500 watt coolant heater, Just incase 3500w isn't fast enough]<br />
<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/block-heater-sizing-25512.html Engine block heater sizing]<br />
<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/850-watt-tank-style-coolant-heater-installed-blackfly-104.html 850 watt tank style heater in a metro]<br />
<br />
=== External links ===<br />
<br />
=== Related mods ===<br />
http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Coolant_Heater</div>Daoxhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Virtual_LibraryVirtual Library2018-07-09T13:47:54Z<p>MetroMPG: Created page with "Return to Main Page Pardon the dust. This page is under construction. Thanks for your patience. The following resources are intended to help members find and s..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]<br />
<br />
Pardon the dust. This page is under construction. Thanks for your patience.<br />
<br />
The following resources are intended to help members find and share information on automotive aerodynamics and fuel economy.<br />
= Books =<br />
* Aerodynamics of Road Vehicles, ''From Fluid Mechanics to Vehicle Engineering'', 4th Edition, WH Hucho, 1998, [http://books.sae.org/book-r-177 SAE Books], [http://www.sae.org/images/books/toc_pdfs/R177.pdf TOC]<br />
* [http://www.scribd.com/doc/35866801/Hoerner-Fluid-Dynamic-Drag-1985 Fluid-Dynamic Drag], SF Hoerner, 1965<br />
<br />
= Technical Papers, Journal Articles, Student Projects & Theses =<br />
* [http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CHEQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fedocs.nps.edu%2Fnpspubs%2Fscholarly%2Ftheses%2F2003%2FSep%2F03Sep_Williams_Nathan.pdf&ei=CpLnT4CsOsPL0QGI4-ThCQ&usg=AFQjCNEbFs6h4wSYVPWtseLWD_ZCDa8onA&sig2=qUUaZ-3tJt5ScpkEGnwjig Drag Optimization of Light Trucks using CFD], NA Williams, Naval Postgraduate School Thesis, 2003<br />
* [http://msrsas.org/docs/sastech_journals/archives/Sept2009/2.pdf Exterior Styling of an Intercity Transport Bus for Improved Aerodynamic Performance], A Raveendran, D Rakesh & SN Sridhara, SASTECH, 2009<br />
* [http://www.technicaljournalsonline.com/ijeat/VOL%20II/IJAET%20VOL%20II%20ISSUE%20III%20JULY%20SEPTEMBER%202011/ARTICLE%2020%20IJAET%20VOLII%20ISSUE%20III%20JULY%20SEPT%202011.pdf Computational Analysis of Intercity Bus with Imroved Aesthetics & Aerodynamic Performance on Indian Rads], Sachin Thorat & G.Amba Prasad Rao, IJAET, 2011<br />
* [http://csus-dspace.calstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/10211.9/123/Thesis%20-%20Final.pdf?sequence=1 CFD Study of Drag Reduction of a Generics SUV], PN Krishnani, MS ME Thesis, CA State Univ, Sacramento, 2009<br />
* [http://www.docstoc.com/docs/46337397/Drag-Reduction-of-Your-Regular-Everyday-Pickup-MAE-571 Drag Reduction of Your Regular Everyday Pickup], MAE 571<br />
* [http://faculty.kfupm.edu.sa/AE/amg/Publications%5C2003_01_0651.pdf Experimental Investigation of the Near Wake of a Pick-up Truck], AM Al-Garni, LP Bernal (Univ. MI) & B Khalighi (GM), SAE, 2003<br />
* [http://csus-dspace.calstate.edu/xmlui/bitstream/handle/10211.9/169/combined-finished.pdf?sequence=1 Drag Reduction of Pickup Truck using Add-on Devices], FA Adem, Thesis MS ME CA State Univ, Sacramento, 2009<br />
*[http://books.google.de/patents/US4573730.pdf Drag reducing partial tonneau for pickup truck], GM (TR Gondert, RA MacDonald), US Patent 4573730, 1986<br />
* [http://www.sinhadeturb.com/TTDeturbFinalPaper.pdf http://www.sinhadeturb.com/TTDeturbFinalPaper.pdf], SK Sinha, SAE, 2008<br />
* 1976 Kevin Cooper Can NRC Motorcycle mag. art<br />
<br />
<br />
Raw Leads (to do)<br />
* extras.springer.com/2004/978-3-540-22088-6/009.pdf<br />
* http://etheses.nottingham.ac.uk/2160/1/490832.pdf<br />
* http://cpdlt.mae.ufl.edu/pdf/2000/sae00c99r.pdf<br />
* http://www.osti.gov/bridge/servlets/purl/376410-iTVIdO/webviewable/376410.pdf (http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/another-candy-store-22358.html)<br />
* http://www.openfoamworkshop.org/2009/4th_Workshop/1_Automotive_and_Combustion/OFW4_2009_Gagnon_paper.pdf<br />
* http://publications.lib.chalmers.se/records/fulltext/143210.pdf<br />
<br />
= Academic Faculty and Research Organizations (not for profit) =<br />
= Commercial Organizations =<br />
= Wind Tunnels =<br />
* A2<br />
* VW<br />
= Annual Competitions, Shows & Special Events =<br />
= CFD Software, Design & Analysis Software =<br />
* Fluent<br />
* OpenFOAM<br />
* Flow Illustrator<br />
= Other Resources =<br />
If something doesn't fit above it can go here. Categories will follow as needed.</div>MetroMPGhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/EV_BatteriesEV Batteries2018-07-09T13:47:36Z<p>MetroMPG: Created page with "Return to Main Page<br> ---- 200px === EV Batteries List === ==== Lead-Acid ==== :Standard lead acid batteries are d..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]<br><br />
----<br />
[[File:Electric-car-batteries.jpg|right|200px]]<br />
<br />
=== EV Batteries List ===<br />
<br />
==== Lead-Acid ====<br />
<br />
:Standard lead acid batteries are designed for massive bursts of startup current (denoted as locked rotor, or cold crank amps) usually in excess of 500 Amps. Electric Vehicles, on the other hand require relatively steady discharge, from fully charged all the way down to mostly flat, before recharging again. The lead plates inside the battery required for this purpose are thicker than standard car batteries and are usually referred to as "deep cycle".<br />
<br />
::* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead-acid_battery Standard Lead Acid Battery]<br />
::* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deep_cycle_battery Deep Cycle Lead Acid Battery]<br />
<br />
<br />
==== carbonfoam-acid (Firefly) ====<br />
: The Carbon foam battery was in mid 2010 put forward as a lighter more energy dense replacement for the lead acid battery. Unfortunately the firefly company was unable to convince the Department of Defence (who were funding the research?) that it's product was worthwhile and the Firefly company subsequently [http://ceramics.org/ceramictechtoday/2010/03/17/plug-pulled-on-firefly-energy-carbon-foam-battery-design/ went out of business].<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Lithium Ion Battery ====<br />
: Lithium Ion are rechargable batteries that are popular in consumer electronics and power tools. They have a higher energy density (pack more amp hours per kg) than lead acid batteries. For an Electric Vehicle, this means more miles and less weight, but the upfront cost is substantially higher.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
==== Nickel-hydride ====<br />
: Nickel Hydride, or more exactly Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) batteries replaced NiCd (Nickel Cadmium) batteries in most consumer products in during the 1990's. Nickel Cadmium batteries suffered from memory effects (the battery would "remember" where it was last charged from, and only discharge back down to that level). NiMH batteries have for the most part been supplanted by Li-Ion Batteries, with usage dropping from around 60% in 2000 to 22% in 2011 due to Li-Ion having higher energy density. [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel%E2%80%93metal_hydride_battery Ref]<br />
<br />
<br />
==== LiFePO4 ====<br />
: Lithium Iron Phosphate are preferred for larger application such as electric vehicles and do not suffer from over discharge combustion problems seen in other Lithium battery types. From a weight point of view, typically a 30AH 48V pack is around 16KG compared to the similar Lead Acid of 46KG for the same energy storage, so a big weight saving will apply, but cost would be substantially higher.<br />
<br />
:The peak current however for a the LiFePO4 will not be as high as the Lead Acid. Lead Acid CCA (cold crank amps, or peak short term current) for a 30AH pack is 200 Amps, whereas the equivalent LiFePO4 battery would have a surge rating of 90A. <br />
<br />
:Discharge Depth will also vastly impact your battery life expectancy. A 30% discharge and recharge will give around 2000 discharge cycles, while a 100% discharge and recharge will shorten this to around 1/3. Lead Acid Batteries life also depend on discharge depth. A 100% discharge will shorten your Lead Acid to 300 recharges.<br />
<br />
:Shelf Life of Lithium Batteries will be around 2 years, meaning whether you use them or not, the batteries will degrade just from sitting around. This compares with around 5 years for Lead Acid.<br />
<br />
:Cells are 3.2V each, so a pack and must be made up of a large number of cells. Usually a Battery Management System (BMS) would be included in the pack to prevent thermal and overcurrent damage.</div>MetroMPGhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Reference_threads_on_aerodynamicsReference threads on aerodynamics2018-07-09T13:46:10Z<p>MetroMPG: Created page with "Return to Main Page Here are some threads with the most commonly used aerodynamic charts, graphs and pictures. [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/index..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]<br />
<br />
Here are some threads with the most commonly used aerodynamic charts, graphs and pictures.<br />
<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/index-phil-knox-aerodynamics-seminars-mod-data-lists-7118.html Index of Phil Knox Aerodynamics Seminars & Mod-data lists]<br />
<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/aerodynamic-streamlining-template-part-c-9287.html Aerodynamic Streamlining Template]<br />
<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/aerodynamic-streamlining-template-overlay-zx2-11266.html Pictures of cars with the ideal shape overlaid]<br />
<br />
<br />
Talk thread for this page:<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/wiki-hypermiling-page-thread-hypermiling-wiki-main-page-14457.html#post192644 Wiki Hypermiling thread]<br />
<br />
--[[User:WeatherSpotter-9828|WeatherSpotter-9828]] 14:44, 6 September 2010 (EDT)</div>MetroMPGhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Brake_Specific_Fuel_Consumption_(BSFC)_MapsBrake Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC) Maps2018-07-09T13:45:59Z<p>MetroMPG: </p>
<hr />
<div>== '''Note -- for BSFC images missing from this page, see the [https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/bsfc-chart-thread-post-em-if-you-got-1466.html The BSFC chart thread]''' ==<br />
<br />
[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]<br><br />
<br />
__TOC__ <br />
<br />
== '''Brake Specific Fuel Consumption Maps''' ==<br />
Useful for determining at what load and rpm your engine is making the most power out of the fuel given to it.<br />
<br />
<br />
== '''Cummins 5.9L B5.9-175 diesel'''== <br />
<br />
[[Image:Cummins_5.9L_B5.9-175_BSFC.gif|600px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== '''Cummins 5.9L ISB-235 diesel'''== <br />
<br />
[[Image:Cummins_5.9L_ISB-235_BSFC.gif|600px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== '''Ford 2.0L Zetec'''== <br />
<br />
[[Image:ford_2.0l_zetec_bsfc.JPG]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== '''Geo Metro 1.0L original'''== <br />
<br />
[[Image:geo-1L-bsfc-chart-orig.gif]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== '''Geo Metro 1.0L cleaned up'''== <br />
<br />
[[Image:geo-1L-bsfc-chart-reconstruction.gif]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== '''1st Gen Honda Insight 1.0L'''== <br />
CVT, which would have lean burn if the car tested was a Japanese-market Insight. Electric assist does not appear to have been accounted for, so the high-load, high-RPM BSFC is grossly underestimated.<br />
<br />
[[Image:honda_insight_1.0l_bsfc.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
On a chassis dyno with a lean burn capable manual transmission equipped vehicle, with no evidence of reduced BSFC at the low load, low RPM regime where lean burn operates:<br />
<br />
[[image:Honda_Insight_5mt.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== '''2017 Mazda 3 Skyactiv gasoline engine'''== <br />
<br />
[[File:2017Mazda3.PNG]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== '''Mercedes Benz 300SD OM617 5 cylinder turbo diesel'''== <br />
<br />
[[image:Mercedes_Benz_OM617_5cyl_turbo_diesel.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== '''MG 1.8L B-Series'''== <br />
<br />
[[image:MG_1.8L_BSFC.jpg]]<br />
<br />
BSFC map generated from the information below.<br />
<br />
[[image:MG_1.8L_BSFC_2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== '''Saturn 1.9L DOHC'''== <br />
<br />
[[Image:saturn_99_1.9l_dohc_bsfc.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== '''Saturn 1.9L DOHC Modified'''==<br />
[[Image:Saturn_1.9l_BSFC_cleaned.png]]<br />
<br />
Saturn 1.9L BSFC: Included imperial units, Constant Horsepower curves, Engine Load %, and extrapolated to redline.<br />
<br />
<br />
Approximate Vacuum readings on Magenta Optimum Efficiency Line:<br />
<br />
6.7"hg at 1000 rpm<br />
<br />
6.5"hg at 1500 rpm<br />
<br />
5.7"hg at 2000 rpm<br />
<br />
5.0"hg at 2500 rpm<br />
<br />
3.8"hg at 3000 rpm<br />
<br />
2.3"hg at 3500 rpm<br />
<br />
1.3"hg at 4000 rpm<br />
<br />
0.9"hg at 4500 rpm<br />
<br />
0.2"hg at 5000 rpm<br />
<br />
WOT at >5100 rpm<br />
<br />
== '''Skoda Felicia 1.3L MPI (50kW)'''==<br />
<br />
[[File:Bsfc_felicia_mpi.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== '''Subaru EJ22 2.2L SOHC'''== <br />
<br />
[[Image:Subaru-ej22-bsfc.png|600px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== '''Toyota 3.0L V6 1MZ-FE and possibly the 3.0L 3VZ-FE (Previous Engine)'''== <br />
<br />
[[Image:toyota_1mzfe_3.0l_bsfc.JPG]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== '''Toyota 1.8L 1ZZ-FE'''== <br />
<br />
[[Image:toyota_98_1zzfe_bsfc.JPG]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== '''Toyota Prius 1.5L 1NZ-FXE'''== <br />
<br />
[[Image:toyota_1nzfxe_prius_bsfc.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== '''Toyota Prius 1.8L 2ZR-FXE 2010-'''== <br />
<br />
[[Image:toyota_2zrfxe_1.8l_prius_bsfc1.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:toyota_2zrfxe_1.8l_prius_bsfc2.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== '''Volkswagen 1.4L TSI'''== <br />
<br />
[[Image:VWTSI_BSFC.jpg|600px]]<br />
<br />
There was an article on VW's cylinder deactivating TSI in a magazine (Serwis motoryzacyjny, 11/2011) and it had the following BSFC graph, illustrating an example of how cylinder deactivation can help reduce fuel consumption.<br />
<br />
The red line '1' graphs constant engine power, in this example 30kW. By going to an rpm and load closer to the BSFC sweetspot the fuel consumption can be lowered by 20%. Deactivating half of the cylinders helps to increase the load, but among the things the article didn't state are:<br />
Is that BSFC for the engine in 4-, or 2-cylinder mode? Or maybe combined? <br />
What would be the effect of only shifting gears? <br />
What would be the effect of only deactivating 2 cylinders? <br />
<br />
Anyhow, the article claimed that only deactivating the cylinders reduced fuel consumption by 0.4 l/100km in the NEDC cycle, while with the Start/Stop system 0.6 l/100km. At steady, low speeds and loads the fc can be reduced by 0.7-1.0 l/100km. The cylinders are deactivated when engine speed is between 1400 and 4000 rpm, and torque between 25 and 75 Nm (the max torque is 250 Nm).<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== '''Volkswagen 1.5L diesel'''== <br />
<br />
[[Image:Vw15d.png|600px]]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== '''Volkswagen 2.0L 5 cyl diesel'''== <br />
<br />
[[Image:vw_5cyl_2.0l_diesel.jpg]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== '''Volkswagen Jetta TDI 1.9L ALH 1999.5-2003'''== <br />
<br />
[[image:ALH BSFC map with power hyperbolae.png]]<br />
<br />
Each curve represents a constant horsepower developed by the engine. If you are driving on a given road with a constant grade, speed, and ambient conditions, regardless of which gear you are in, it requires roughly the same amount of power to overcome aerodynamic drag, rolling resistance and driveline losses. Therefore, regardless of what gear you're in, you're riding anywhere along the same blue curve; exactly where you sit on that blue curve being only dependent on the gear you're in and therefore the RPM at which the engine is turning over.<br />
<br />
In the case of the TDI BSFC chart, if I take the example of operating on a certain speed such that the power is 20 HP, the lowest BSFC occurs when running at the gear that corresponds to about 1250 RPM. If I run at either a higher- or lower RPM from this point, my BSFC will increase. This is about the only point in the entire engine map where it would be disadvantageous to operate at an even higher gear if one were available (lower RPM) because of the worsening BSFC. Almost everywhere else, the lowest BSFC is achieved at the lowest possible RPM at a given power.<br />
<br />
<br />
== '''Volkswagen Jetta TDI 2.0L 2009'''== <br />
<br />
[[Image:vw_09_jetta_tdi_2.0l_bsfc.JPG]]</div>MetroMPGhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Vehicle_Coefficient_of_Drag_ListVehicle Coefficient of Drag List2018-07-09T13:44:55Z<p>MetroMPG: Created page with "Return to Main Page<br> <big>'''Coefficient of Drag List'''</big> == Stock Vehicles == Frontal Area formula = Height * Width * .84 <br>(Height and Width in fee..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]<br><br />
<big>'''Coefficient of Drag List'''</big><br />
<br />
== Stock Vehicles ==<br />
<br />
Frontal Area formula = Height * Width * .84<br />
<br>(Height and Width in feet)<br />
<br />
Frontal Area formula = (Height/12) * (Width/12) * .84<br />
<br>(Height and Width in inches)<br />
<br />
CdA formula = Cd * Frontal Area<br />
<br />
{| class="sortable" border="1"<br />
|+ Vehicle CdA<br />
! Make !! Model !! Year !! Cd !! Height (In) !! Width (In) !! Frontal Area (ft^2) !! CdA<br />
|-<br />
! Acura <br />
| CL || 1997 - 1999 ||0.34 || 54.7 || 70.1 || 21.6 || 7.33<br />
|-<br />
! Acura <br />
| CL || 2000 - 2003 || 0.32 || 55.5 || 70.6 || 22.0 || 7.05<br />
|-<br />
! Acura <br />
| Integra || 1994 - 2001 || 0.32 || 51.9 || 66.7 || 19.5 || 6.23<br />
|-<br />
! Acura<br />
| NSX || 1995 - 2005 || 0.32 || 46.1 || 71.3 || 19.2 || 6.13<br />
|-<br />
! Acura <br />
| RSX || 2002 - 2004 || 0.32 || 54.5 || 67.9 || 20.8 || 6.66<br />
|-<br />
! Acura <br />
| TSX || 2004 - 2008 || 0.27 || 57.3 || 69.4 || || <br />
|-<br />
! Alfa Romeo <br />
| 145 || 1994 - 2001 || 0.32 || 56.2 || 67.4 || 22.41 || 7.21<br />
|-<br />
! Aptera<br />
| 2e || prototype || 0.15 || || || 19.9 || 2.98<br />
|-<br />
! Audi <br />
| A2 || 1999 - 2003 || || || || || 6.63<br />
|-<br />
! Audi <br />
| A2 3L || 2001 - 2003 || 0.25 || || || || 5.86<br />
|-<br />
! Audi <br />
| A3 || 1996 - 2003 || 0.31 || 56.0 || 68.3 || 22.39 || 6.89<br />
|-<br />
! Audi <br />
| A4 || 1994 - 2001 || 0.29 || 55.7 || 68.1 || 21.85 || 6.35<br />
|-<br />
! Audi <br />
| A6 || 1997 - 2004 || 0.29 || 57.2 || 71.3 || 22.82 || 6.67<br />
|-<br />
! Audi <br />
| A8 || 1994 - 2002 || 0.28 || 56.6 || 74.0 || 24.22 || 6.78<br />
|-<br />
! Audi <br />
| TT || 1998 - 2006 || 0.34 || - || - || 21.42 || 7.28<br />
|-<br />
! Audi <br />
| TT || 2006 - || 0.30 || - || - || 22.47 || 6.75<br />
|-<br />
! BMW <br />
| Compact || 1993 - 2000 || 0.31 || || 67.0 || 20.99 || 6.57<br />
|-<br />
! BMW <br />
| 3-series || 1990 - 1999 || 0.30 || || || 21.10 || 6.24<br />
|-<br />
! BMW <br />
| 5-series || 1995 - 2003 || 0.27 || 56.5 || 70.9 || 23.36 || 6.35<br />
|-<br />
! BMW <br />
| 7-series || 1994 - 2001 || 0.30 || 56.1 || 73.3 || 23.79 || 7.21<br />
|-<br />
! Buick<br />
| LeSabre || 1991 || 0.36 || || || 24.19 || 7.5 <br />
|-<br />
! Buick<br />
| Park Avenue || 1991 - 1993 || 0.31 || 55.3 || 74.9 || 24.19 || 8.71 <br />
|-<br />
! Buick<br />
| Park Avenue || 1994 - 1996 || 0.31 || 55.1 || 74.1 || 23.52 || 7.29 <br />
|-<br />
! Buick<br />
| Park Avenue || 1997 - 2005 || || 57.4 || 74.7 || || <br />
|-<br />
! Buick<br />
| Park Avenue || 2006 - 20XX || || 58.3 || 74.8 || || <br />
|-<br />
! Buick<br />
| Regal GS || 1991 || 0.36 || || || 22.41 || 8.07 <br />
|-<br />
! Chevrolet<br />
| Astro Van || 1995 - 2005 || 0.40 || 75.5 || 77.5 || 34.1 || 13.65<br />
|-<br />
! Chevrolet<br />
| Aveo || 2004 - 2008 || 0.35 || 58.5 || 66 || 23.3 || 8.16<br />
|-<br />
! Chevrolet<br />
| Aveo Hatchback || 2009 || 0.32 || 59.3 || 66.1 || 22.9 || 7.32<br />
|-<br />
! Chevrolet<br />
| Aveo Sedan || 2009 || 0.32 || 58.9 || 67 || 23.0 || 7.37<br />
|-<br />
! Chevrolet<br />
| Camaro || 1993 - 2002 || 0.34 || 51.3 || 74.1 || 22.0 || 7.48<br />
|-<br />
! Chevrolet<br />
| Cavalier ||1995 - 2005 || 0.36 || 53.2 || 67.4 || 20.2 || 7.26<br />
|-<br />
! Chevrolet<br />
| Cobalt XFE ||2008 - 2009 || 0.34 || 57.1 || 67.9 || 22.0 || 7.47<br />
|-<br />
! Chevrolet<br />
| Monte Carlo || 1995 - 2000 || 0.36 || 53.8 || 72.5 || 22.6 || 8.14<br />
|-<br />
! Chevrolet<br />
| Volt || 2011 - 2015 || 0.28 || 56.64 || 70.37 || 23.25 || 6.51<br />
|-<br />
! Chevrolet<br />
| Volt || 2016 - || 0.285 || 56.4 || 71.2 || 23.42 || 6.68<br />
|-<br />
! Chrysler<br />
| PT Cruiser || 2000 - 2006 || 0.40|| 63.0|| 67.1|| 23.8|| 9.51<br />
|-<br />
! Chrysler<br />
| Sebring || 1995 - 2000 || 0.32 || 53.0 ||69.7 ||20.8 || 6.65<br />
|-<br />
! Chrysler<br />
| Sebring Convertible || 1996 - 2000 || 0.36 || 54.2 ||69.2 ||21.82 || 7.85<br />
|-<br />
! Chrysler <br />
| Voyager || 1996 - 2000 || 0.37 || 68.5 || 75.6 || 30.14 || 11.19<br />
|-<br />
! Citroën<br />
| C4 || 2004 - || 0.28 || 57.4 ||69.6 || || <br />
|-<br />
! Citroën <br />
| C8 || 1994 - 2003 || 0.34 || || || 28.95 || 9.79<br />
|-<br />
! Citroën<br />
| Saxo || 1996 - 2003 || 0.34 || 54.3 ||62.8 ||19.7 || 6.66<br />
|-<br />
! Citroën <br />
| Xantia || 1993 - 2001 || 0.31 || 54.0 || 69.1 || 21.85 || 6.67<br />
|-<br />
! Citroën <br />
| XM || 1989 - 2000 || 0.30 || 54.8 || 70.6 || 22.82 || 6.78<br />
|-<br />
! Citroën <br />
| ZX || 1991 - 1998 || 0.36 || || || 20.77 || 7.43<br />
|-<br />
! Daewoo <br />
| Espero || 1990 - 1997 || 0.32 || 54.6 || 67.6 || 21.74 || 6.99<br />
|-<br />
! Daewoo <br />
| Nexia || 1994 - 1997 || 0.34 || || || 20.99 || 7.21<br />
|-<br />
! Dodge<br />
| Avenger || 2008-2009 || 0.326|| || ||25.15 || 8.2<br />
|-<br />
! Dodge<br />
| Caravan || 1996-2000 || 0.35|| 68.6 || 76.8 || 30.7 || 10.76<br />
|-<br />
! Dodge<br />
| Magnum (RWD) SE || 2005-2007 || 0.337 || 58.4 || 74.1 || 25.4 || 8.56<br />
|-<br />
! Dodge<br />
| Magnum (RWD) SXT || 2005-2007 || 0.346 || 58.4 || 74.1 || 25.4 || 8.79<br />
|-<br />
! Dodge<br />
| Magnum (RWD) R/T || 2005-2007 || 0.355 || 58.4 || 74.1 || 25.4 || 9.02<br />
|-<br />
! Dodge<br />
| Magnum (AWD) SXT, R/T || 2005-2007 || 0.365 || 58.4 || 74.1 || 25.4 || 9.27<br />
|-<br />
! Dodge<br />
| Neon || 1995-1999 || 0.33|| 54.9 || 67.5 || 21.6 || 7.13<br />
|-<br />
! Dodge<br />
| RAM 1500 QC|| 2002-2008 || 0.52|| || || 35.1 || 18.25<br />
|-<br />
! Dodge<br />
| RAM SRT10 || 2004-2006 || 0.45|| || || 34.6 || 15.57<br />
|-<br />
! Dodge<br />
| Shadow || 1991-1994 || 0.42|| || || 21 || 8.82<br />
|-<br />
! Fiat <br />
| Bravo || 1995 - 2001 || 0.32 || 55.9 || 68.9 || 22.06 || 7.10<br />
|-<br />
! Fiat <br />
| Cinquecento || 1991 - 1998 || 0.33 || 56.6 || 58.7 || 19.37 || 6.35<br />
|-<br />
! Fiat <br />
| Punto || 1993 - 1999 || 0.30 || 57.0 || 64.0 || 20.99 || 6.35<br />
|-<br />
! Fiat <br />
| Ulysse || 1994 - 2003 || 0.34 || || || 28.95 || 9.79<br />
|-<br />
! Ford <br />
| Aspire || 1994 - 1997 ||0.36 ||55.6 ||65.5 || 21.2 || 7.65<br />
|-<br />
! Ford <br />
| Escort (Euro) || 1995 - 2000 || 0.32 || || || 20.88 || 6.67<br />
|-<br />
! Ford <br />
| Escort || 1997 - 2002 || 0.36 || 52.3 || 67.4 || 19.8 || 7.14<br />
|-<br />
! Ford <br />
| Explorer II || 1995 - 2001 || 0.43 || 68.0 || 70.2 || 32.93 || 14.21<br />
|-<br />
! Ford <br />
| F-150 Lightning || 1999 - 2004 || 0.36|| 70.9 ||79.1 || 31.5|| 11.36<br />
|-<br />
! Ford <br />
| Fiesta || 1995 - 2002 || 0.36 || || || 19.80 || 7.10<br />
|-<br />
! Ford <br />
| Fiesta || 2011 - || 0.33 || 58.0 || 67.8 || 22.9 || 7.57<br />
|-<br />
! Ford <br />
| Galaxy || 1995 - 2000 || 0.32 || 67.9 || 74.2 || 28.84 || 9.15<br />
|-<br />
! Ford <br />
| Ka || 1996 - 2008 || 0.35 || 54.8 || 64.2 || 20.23 || 7.10<br />
|-<br />
! Ford <br />
| Maverick || 1988 - 1994 || 0.52 || 71.3 || 76.0 || 29.17 || 15.18<br />
|-<br />
! Ford <br />
| Mondeo || 1996 - 2000 || 0.31 || || || 22.06 || 6.89<br />
|-<br />
! Ford <br />
| Mondeo Turnier || 1996 - 2000 || 0.32 || || || 22.17 || 7.10<br />
|-<br />
! Ford <br />
| Ranger || 2001 || 0.49|| 68.5 || 64.9 || 25.9 || 12.7<br />
|-<br />
! Ford <br />
| Scorpio || 1985 - 1998 || 0.32 || 54.6 || 69.3 || 22.06 || 7.10<br />
|-<br />
! Ford<br />
| SVT Mustang Cobra || 1994 - 2004 || 0.37 ||52.5 || 73.1 ||21.6 || 7.99<br />
|-<br />
! Ford <br />
| Thunderbird ||1989 - 1997 || 0.31|| 52.8|| 72.0|| 21.4|| 6.63<br />
|-<br />
! Ford <br />
| Windstar I || 1994 - 1998 || 0.35 || 68.0 || 75.4 || 30.03 || 10.55<br />
|-<br />
! General Motors<br />
| EV1 ||1996 || 0.19 || || || || 3.96<br />
|-<br />
! Geo<br />
| Metro 4dr || 1989 - 1994 || || 53.5 || 62.7 || 19.6 || 0.00<br />
|-<br />
! Geo<br />
| Metro 4dr || 1995 - 1997 || 0.32|| 55.4|| 62.6 ||19.5 || 6.24<br />
|-<br />
! Geo<br />
| Metro 2dr hatch ||1989 - 1994 || || 52.4 ||62.0 || 19.0|| 0.00<br />
|-<br />
! Geo<br />
| Metro 2dr hatch || 1995 - 1997 ||0.34 ||54.7 ||62.6 ||20.0 ||6.79<br />
|-<br />
! Geo<br />
| Metro Convertible ||1989 - 1994 |||| 52.0 || 62.7 ||19.0 || 0.00<br />
|-<br />
! GMC <br />
| Sierra XFE || 2009 || 0.412|| 80.0 ||73.6 || 34.3|| 14.2<br />
|-<br />
! Honda<br />
| Accord Ex Coupe || 1998 - 2002 || 0.34 || 55.1|| 70.3 || 21.8 || 7.41<br />
|-<br />
! Honda<br />
| Civic || 1988 - 1991 |||| 53.5|| 65.9|| 20.6|| 0.00<br />
|-<br />
! Honda<br />
| Civic Hatch|| 1988 - 1991 ||0.33||52.4|| 65.6|| 20.1|| 6.63<br />
|-<br />
! Honda<br />
| Civic Coupe ||1992 - 1995 || 0.32|| 50.9 || 66.9|| 19.9 || 6.36<br />
|-<br />
! Honda<br />
| Civic || 2001 - 2005 |||| 56.9|| 67.7|| 22.5 || 0.00<br />
|-<br />
! Honda<br />
| Civic Coupe || 2006 - || 0.29 || 56.5 || 69.0|| 21.9 ||6.36<br />
|-<br />
! Honda<br />
| Civic Del Sol || 1992 - 1997 || 0.35|| 49.4|| 66.7 || 18.5 || 6.49<br />
|-<br />
! Honda<br />
| Civic Hatch || 1992 - 1995 || 0.31 || 50.9|| 66.9 || 19.9|| 6.16<br />
|-<br />
! Honda<br />
| Civic Hatch || 1996 - 2000 || 0.36|| 54.1 || 67.1 || 21.8 || 7.62<br />
|-<br />
! Honda<br />
| Civic Sedan || 1996 - 2000 || 0.32|| 54.7 || 67.1 || 21.4 || 6.85<br />
|-<br />
! Honda<br />
| Civic Hybrid || 2003 - 2005 ||0.28 || 56.3|| 67.5|| 21.4|| 5.99<br />
|-<br />
! Honda<br />
| Civic Hybrid || 2005 - || 0.27 || 56.3 || 69.0 || 21.9|| 5.90<br />
|-<br />
! Honda<br />
| Civic SI || 1996 - 2000 ||0.34 ||54.1 ||67.1 || 20.4 || 6.94<br />
|-<br />
! Honda<br />
| CRX || 1984 - 1987 || 0.32 || 50.8 || 63.9 || 18.3 ||5.84<br />
|-<br />
! Honda<br />
| CRX ||1988 - 1991 ||0.30 ||50.1 || 65.9 ||18.6 || 5.57<br />
|-<br />
! Honda<br />
| CRX HF || 1988 - 1991 || 0.29 || 50.1|| 65.9 || 18.6 || 5.39<br />
|-<br />
! Honda<br />
| CR-Z || 2010 - || 0.30 || 54.9|| 68.5 || 21.9 || 6.58<br />
|-<br />
! Honda<br />
| Insight || 2000 - 2006 || 0.25|| 53.3 ||66.7 || 20.0 || 5.00<br />
|-<br />
! Honda<br />
| Insight || 2010 - || 0.28|| 56.3 ||66.7 || 21.9 || 6.13<br />
|-<br />
! Honda<br />
| Fit || 2006 - 2008 || 0.35|| 60.0 ||65.9 ||23.1 || 8.085<br />
|-<br />
! Honda<br />
| Fit || 2009 - |||| 60.0|| 66.7 ||23.3 ||0.00<br />
|-<br />
! Honda<br />
| Prelude || 1997 - 2001 || 0.32 || 51.8 || 69.0 || 20.1 ||6.43<br />
|-<br />
! Honda<br />
| S2000 || 2000 - || 0.33|| 50.6 || 68.9 || 19.6 || 6.47<br />
|-<br />
! Hyundai <br />
| Accent/Pony/Excel || 1994 - 1999 || 0.31 || 54.9 || 63.8 || 20.56 || 6.35<br />
|-<br />
! Hyundai<br />
| Elantra ||1991 - 1993 |||| 54.5 ||65.9 || 21.0|| 0.00<br />
|-<br />
! Hyundai<br />
| Elantra || 1994 - 1995 |||| 52.0 || 66.1 || 20.1 || 0.00<br />
|-<br />
! Hyundai<br />
| Elantra || 1996 - 2000 ||0.33 || 54.9|| 66.9|| 20.7 ||6.82<br />
|-<br />
! Hyundai<br />
| Elantra || 2001 - 2006 || 0.34|| 56.1 ||67.9 ||21.4 || 7.29<br />
|-<br />
! Hyundai<br />
| Elantra || 2007 - || 0.32 ||58.3 || 69.9 ||22.9 || 7.34<br />
|-<br />
! Hyundai<br />
| Elantra touring || 2007 - ||0.33 ||59.8 ||69.5 || 23.4 || 7.71<br />
|-<br />
! Hyundai<br />
| Elantra wagon || 1996 - 1997 ||0.33 || 57.4 || 66.9|| 21.6 || 7.13<br />
|-<br />
! Hyundai<br />
| Elantra wagon ||1998 - 2000 || 0.33|| 58.8|| 66.9 || 22.1 ||7.30<br />
|-<br />
! Hyundai<br />
| Sonata || 2006 - || 0.32|| 58.0|| 72.1 || 23.5 || 7.53<br />
|-<br />
! Hyundai<br />
| Tiburon GT|| 2002 - || 0.32 || 52.3 || 69.3|| 20.4|| 6.52<br />
|-<br />
!Infiniti<br />
|G20 || 1991-1996 || 0.30 || 54.7 || 66.7 || 21.28 || 6.38<br />
|-<br />
!Infiniti<br />
|G20 || 1999-2002 || 0.30 || 55.1 || 66.7 || 21.44 || 6.43<br />
|-<br />
!Infiniti<br />
|Q45 || 2002-2006 || 0.30 || 58.7 || 72.6 || 24.9 || 7.46<br />
|- <br />
! Jeep <br />
| Cherokee || 1984 - 2001 || 0.52 || 64.0 || 67.9 || 24.54 || 12.81<br />
|-<br />
! Jeep <br />
| Grand Cherokee || 1993 - 1998 || 0.42 || 64.9 || 69.2 || 25.94 || 10.87<br />
|-<br />
! Jeep <br />
| Liberty || 2012 || 0.394 || 71.0 || 72.3 || 30.21 || 12.0<br />
|-<br />
! Jeep<br />
| Wrangler TJ-Hardtop|| 1997-2005 || 0.55 || 69.8 || 68.3 || 27.81 || 15.3 <br />
|-<br />
! Jeep <br />
| Wrangler TJ-Soft Top || 1997-2005 || 0.58 || 71.2 || 68.3 || 28.37 || 16.45 <br />
|-<br />
! Kia <br />
| Picanto || 2004-2011 || 0.34 || 58.3 || 62.8 || ||<br />
|-<br />
! Lancia <br />
| Delta HPE (3-door) || 1993 - 1999 || 0.33 || 56.0 || 69.3 || 22.49 || 7.43<br />
|-<br />
! Lexus <br />
| LS 400 || 1994 - 2000 || 0.27 || 56.0 || 72.0 || 24.00 || 6.46<br />
|-<br />
! Mazda <br />
| 323 C || 1994 - 1998 || 0.33 || 54.3 || 65.7 || 21.31 || 6.99<br />
|-<br />
! Mazda <br />
| 626 ||1992 - 1997 || 0.29 || 53.9 || 68.9 || 21.63 || 6.24<br />
|-<br />
! Mazda<br />
| Miata || 1998 - 2005 || 0.38 ||47.3 ||66.1 ||17.6 || 6.68<br />
|-<br />
! Mazda<br />
| MX-3 ||1992 - 1995 ||0.32 ||51.6 ||66.7 ||19.4 || 6.20<br />
|-<br />
! Mazda<br />
| RX-7 ||1992 - 2002 || 0.33|| 48.4 || 68.9|| 18.8 ||6.19<br />
|-<br />
! Mazda<br />
| RX-8 ||2003 - 2012 || 0.30|| 52.8 || 69.7|| 21.47 ||6.44<br />
|-<br />
! Mazda <br />
| Xedos 6 || 1992 - 1999 || 0.31 || || || 20.34 || 6.35<br />
|-<br />
! Mazda <br />
| Xedos 9/Millenia || 1993 - 2003 || 0.28 || 54.9 || 69.7 || 23.46 || 6.57<br />
|-<br />
! Mercedes-Benz <br />
| C-class || 1993 - 2000 || 0.30 || 56.1 || 67.7 || 22.06 || 6.67<br />
|-<br />
! Mercedes<br />
| CL500 || 1998 - 2000 || 0.28 || 55.0 || 73.1 || 23.9 ||6.69<br />
|-<br />
! Mercedes-Benz <br />
| E-class || 1995 - 2002 || 0.27 || 56.7 || 70.8 || 23.25 || 6.24<br />
|-<br />
! Mercedes-Benz <br />
| G-class || 1990 - || 0.53 || 72.3 || 69.3 || 31.64 || 16.79<br />
|-<br />
! Mercedes-Benz <br />
| S-class || 1991 - 1999 || 0.31 || || || 25.62 || 7.96<br />
|-<br />
! Mercedes<br />
| SL600 ||1989 - 2002 || 0.45 ||50.7 || 71.3 ||21.2 ||9.54<br />
|-<br />
! Mercedes-Benz <br />
| Vito || 1996 - 2003 || 0.34 || || || 34.27 || 11.62<br />
|-<br />
! Mercury<br />
| Cougar || 1999 - 2002 || 0.31|| 52.2 || 69.6 || 20.4 || 6.34<br />
|-<br />
! Mini<br />
| Mini Cooper S || 2001 - 2006 || 0.33 || 55.8 || 66.5 || 21.3 ||7.03<br />
|-<br />
! Mitsubishi <br />
| Colt || 1995 - 2002 || 0.30 || 54.5 || 66.0 || 21.53 || 6.46<br />
|-<br />
! Mitsubishi<br />
| Eclipse GS-T || 1995 - 1999 || 0.29|| 51.0|| 68.3|| 20.4|| 5.92<br />
|-<br />
! Mitsubishi<br />
| Eclipse GTS || 2000 - 2005 ||0.35 || 51.6 || 68.9 || 20.4 || 7.14<br />
|-<br />
! Mitsubishi<br />
| i-MiEV || 2012 - ||0.35 || 63.6 || 62.4 || 23.2 || 8.10<br />
|-<br />
! Mitsubishi<br />
| Lancer || 2000 - 2007 || 0.30 || 54.1 ||66.7 ||21.0 || 6.31<br />
|-<br />
! Mitsubishi<br />
| Mirage Coupe|| 1991 - 1996 || 0.32 ||51.4 || 66.5 ||19.2 || 6.15<br />
|-<br />
! Mitsubishi<br />
| Mirage Hatch|| 2014 - 2016 || 0.28 ||59.1 || 65.6 ||21.97 || 6.15<br />
|-<br />
! Mitsubishi<br />
| Mirage Hatch|| 2017 - || 0.27 ||59.1 || 65.6 ||21.97 || 5.93<br />
|-<br />
! Mitsubishi <br />
| Pajero || 1991 - 1999 || 0.49 || 72.8 || 66.7 || 27.23 || 13.02<br />
|-<br />
! Nissan<br />
| 200SX SE ||1991 - 1994 || 0.30|| 50.8 || 66.5 ||19.0 ||5.70<br />
|-<br />
! Nissan<br />
| 200SX SE-R ||1995 - 1999 ||0.34 ||54.2 ||66.6 ||20.3 ||6.90<br />
|-<br />
! Nissan<br />
| 300ZX Turbo|| 1990 - 1996 || 0.31 || 49.2 || 70.5 ||19.5 ||6.05<br />
|-<br />
! Nissan<br />
| 350Z ||2002 - || 0.31|| 51.9 || 71.5 ||20.9 || 6.47<br />
|-<br />
! Nissan <br />
| Almera || 1995 - 2000 || 0.30 || 54.9 || 66.5 || 20.45 || 6.13<br />
|-<br />
! Nissan<br />
| Altima || 1993 - 1997 || 0.34 ||55.9 || 67.1 ||21.1 || 7.17<br />
|-<br />
! Nissan<br />
| Altima ||1998 - 2001 || 0.32|| 55.9 || 69.1|| 21.7|| 6.95<br />
|-<br />
! Nissan<br />
| Altima ||2002 - 2006 || 0.32|| 57.9|| 70.4|| 22.9 ||7.34<br />
|-<br />
! Nissan<br />
| Altima coupe || 2007 - || 0.31 || 55.3 ||70.7 || 22.0 ||6.82<br />
|-<br />
! Nissan<br />
| Altima hybrid || 2007 - ||0.30 ||58.1 || 69.6 ||22.7 ||6.82<br />
|-<br />
! Nissan<br />
| Altima sedan ||2007 - ||0.31 ||57.9 ||70.7 ||23.0 || 7.14<br />
|-<br />
! Nissan<br />
| Cube ||2008 - ||0.35 ||65.0 ||66.7 ||25.32 || 8.86<br />
|-<br />
! Nissan<br />
| Leaf ||2011 - ||0.28 ||61.0 || 69.7 ||24.8 ||6.94<br />
|-<br />
! Nissan<br />
| Maxima || 1995 - 1999 ||0.32 || 55.7 || 69.7 ||22.51 ||7.20<br />
|-<br />
! Nissan <br />
| Micra || 1992 - 2003 || 0.35 || || || 19.59 || 6.89<br />
|-<br />
! Nissan <br />
| Murano || 2003 - 2007 || 0.39 || 66.5 || 74.0 || 28.71 || 11.20<br />
|-<br />
! Nissan <br />
| Murano || 2008 - || 0.39 || 67.3 || 74.0 || 29.05 || 11.32<br />
|-<br />
! Nissan<br />
| NX2000 ||1991 - 1993 ||0.32|| 51.8 || 66.1|| 20 || 6.39<br />
|-<br />
! Nissan <br />
| Patrol GR || 1987 - 1998 || 0.52 || 71.3 || 76.0 || 29.17 || 15.18<br />
|-<br />
! Nissan <br />
| Primera || 1995 - 1999 || 0.29 || || || 21.10 || 6.13<br />
|-<br />
! Nissan<br />
| Sentra ||1991 - 1994 || 0.35|| 53.0 || 65.6|| 19.6 || 6.84<br />
|-<br />
! Nissan<br />
| Sentra || 1995 - 1999 ||0.33 || 54.5 ||66.6 || 20.4|| 6.74<br />
|-<br />
! Nissan<br />
| Sentra || 2000 - 2006|| 0.33 ||55.5 || 67.3 ||21.0 ||6.93<br />
|-<br />
! Nissan<br />
| Sentra || 2007 - ||0.35 || 59.5 ||70.5 ||23.6 ||8.26<br />
|-<br />
! Nissan <br />
| Terrano II || 1996 - 2004 || 0.44 || 67.1 || 68.7 || 29.38 || 12.92<br />
|-<br />
! Nissan<br />
| Versa ||2004 - ||0.31 ||60.4 || 66.7 ||22.7 ||7.03<br />
|-<br />
! Opel <br />
| Astra || 1991 - 1998 || 0.32 || || || 21.20 || 6.78<br />
|-<br />
! Opel <br />
| Astra Caravan || 1991 - 1998 || 0.33 || || || 21.74 || 7.10<br />
|-<br />
! Opel <br />
| Corsa B || 1992 - 2000 || 0.36 || 56.7 || 63.4 || 20.23 || 7.21<br />
|-<br />
! Opel <br />
| Corsa C || 2000 - 2006 || 0.32 || 56.7 || 64.8 || 21.1 || 6.75<br />
|-<br />
! Opel<br />
| Calibra 2.0i || 1989 - 1997 ||0.26 || 52 || 66.5|| 20.8 ||5.40<br />
|-<br />
! Opel <br />
| Omega B || 1994 - 1999 || 0.29 || 57.3 || 70.3 || 23.14 || 6.78<br />
|-<br />
! Opel <br />
| Sintra || 1996 - 1999 || 0.34 || || || 30.14 || 10.22<br />
|-<br />
! Opel<br />
| Tigra || 1994 - 2001 ||0.31 || || || 19.15 ||5.94<br />
|-<br />
! Opel<br />
| Vectra A ||1988 - 1995 ||0.29 || 55.1 || 66.9 || 21.9 || 6.36<br />
|-<br />
! Opel <br />
| Vectra B || 1995 - 2002 || 0.28 || 56.0 || 67.0 || 21.74 || 6.13<br />
|-<br />
! Peugeot <br />
| 106 || 1991 - 2004 || 0.32 || 53.9 || 62.6 || 19.48 || 6.24<br />
|-<br />
! Peugeot<br />
| 206 ||1998 - ||0.33 || || || || <br />
|-<br />
! Peugeot<br />
| 207 ||2006 - ||0.30 || || || || <br />
|-<br />
! Peugeot<br />
| 207 Economique ||2009 - || 0.274 || || || || <br />
|-<br />
! Peugeot <br />
| 306 || 1993 - 2002 || 0.32 || || || 20.66 || 6.67<br />
|-<br />
! Peugeot<br />
| 307 SW ||2001 - 2008 ||0.33 || 61.4 || 70 || 27.46 || 9.06<br />
|-<br />
! Peugeot<br />
| 308 ||2008 - || 0.29 || || || || <br />
|-<br />
! Peugeot <br />
| 406 || 1995 - 2004 || 0.31 || 55.0 || 69.0 || 22.06 || 6.78<br />
|-<br />
! Peugeot <br />
| 806 || 1994 - 2002 || 0.34 || || || 28.95 || 9.79<br />
|-<br />
! Pontiac<br />
| Bonneville || 1992 - 1997 || 0.36 || 55.7 || 74.5 || 24.3 || 8.75 <br />
|-<br />
! Pontiac<br />
| Bonneville || 1998 - 1999 || || 56.0 || 74.4 || 24.3 || <br />
|-<br />
! Pontiac<br />
| Bonneville SE || 2000 - 2001 || || 56.0 || 74.2 || 24.3 || <br />
|-<br />
! Pontiac<br />
| Bonneville SLE & SSEi || 2000 - 2001 || || 56.4 || 74.2 || 24.4 || <br />
|-<br />
! Pontiac<br />
| Bonneville || 2002 - 2005 || || 56.6 || 74.2 || 24.5 || <br />
|-<br />
! Pontiac<br />
| Fiero || 1986 || 0.36 || || || 18.72 || 6.75 <br />
|-<br />
! Pontiac<br />
| Grand AM GT || 1992 || 0.34 || || || 21.12 || 7.18 <br />
|-<br />
! Pontiac<br />
| Grand AM SE || 1992 || 0.34 || || || 20.82 || 7.08 <br />
|-<br />
! Pontiac<br />
| Grand Prix || 1991 || 0.34 || || || 22.32 || 7.59 <br />
|-<br />
! Pontiac<br />
| Grand Prix || 1998 - 2003 || || 54.7 || 72.7 || 23.197 ||<br />
|-<br />
! Pontiac<br />
| Trans Am || 1985 - 1989 || 0.29 || || || || <br />
|-<br />
! Pontiac<br />
| Firebird Trans Am || 1993 - 2002 || 0.34 || 52.0 || 74.5 || 22.0 || 7.48 <br />
|-<br />
! Pontiac<br />
| Trans Sport || 1990 - 1996 || 0.30 || 65.7 || 74.6 || 28.6 || 8.58 <br />
|-<br />
! Pontiac<br />
| Vibe || 2003 || 0.33 || || || || <br />
|-<br />
! Porsche<br />
| 914 || 1969 - 1976 || 0.36 || || || 17.2 || 6.19 <br />
|-<br />
! Renault <br />
| Clio || 1990 - 1998 || 0.33 || || || 20.02 || 6.57<br />
|-<br />
! Renault <br />
| Espace II || 1991 - 1997 || 0.32 || || || 27.88 || 8.93<br />
|-<br />
! Renault <br />
| Espace III || 1997 - 2003 || 0.31 || || || 27.77 || 8.61<br />
|-<br />
! Renault <br />
| Laguna || 1993 - 2001 || 0.30 || 56.4 || 69.0 || 22.28 || 6.67<br />
|-<br />
! Renault <br />
| Megane || 1995 - 2002 || 0.32 || || || 21.42 || 6.89<br />
|-<br />
! Renault <br />
| Twingo || 1992 - 2007 || 0.35 || || || 20.99 || 7.32<br />
|-<br />
! Rover<br />
| 214 || 1995-1999 || 0.33 || 56 || 67 || 21.5 || 7.1 <br />
|-<br />
! Saab <br />
| 900 (Classic) || 1979-1993|| 0.34 || 56.25 || 66.5 || 21.82 || 7.42<br />
|-<br />
! Saab <br />
| 9000 CS || 1992 - 1998 || 0.32 || 55.9 || 69.4 || 22.39 || 7.21<br />
|-<br />
! Saab <br />
| Sonett III (Model 97) || 1970 - 1974 || 0.31 || 46.8 || 59.1 || 15.15 || 4.70<br />
|-<br />
! Saturn<br />
| SC || 1991 - 1996 ||0.32 || 50.6 || 67.6 || 20.0 || 6.39 <br />
|-<br />
! Saturn<br />
| SC || 1996 - 2002 || 0.31|| 53.0|| 67.3 || 20.8 || 6.45<br />
|-<br />
! Saturn<br />
| SC2 || 1997 - 2002 || 0.33|| 52.2|| 67.3 || 20.9|| 6.90<br />
|-<br />
! Saturn<br />
| SL || 1991 - 1995 || 0.34|| 52.5|| 67.6 || 20.7|| 7.04<br />
|-<br />
! Saturn<br />
| SL ||1996 - 2002 || 0.32 ||54.8 || 66.6 || 21.3 || 6.81<br />
|-<br />
! Saturn<br />
| SW || 1993 - 1995 || || 53.7 || 67.6 || 21.2 || <br />
|-<br />
! Saturn<br />
| SW ||1996 - 2001 || 0.36 || 55.0 ||66.5 ||21.3 ||7.68<br />
|-<br />
! Scion<br />
| FR-S ||2012 - || 0.27|| 50.6 || 69.9|| 20.6 ||5.57<br />
|-<br />
! Scion<br />
| Tc ||2005 - || 0.32|| 55.7|| 69.1|| 21.6 ||6.93<br />
|-<br />
! Scion<br />
| Xa ||2004 - 2007 ||0.31 || 60.2 ||66.7 ||22.6 || 7.00<br />
|-<br />
! Scion<br />
| Xb || 2004 - 2007 || 0.35 ||64.6 || 66.5 || 24.2|| 8.46<br />
|-<br />
! Scion<br />
| Xb ||2008 - ||0.32 || 64.7 ||69.3 || 25.2 ||8.07<br />
|-<br />
! Scion<br />
| Xd || 2008 - ||0.32 || 60.0 ||67.9 || 22.9 ||7.33<br />
|-<br />
! Seat <br />
| Cordoba || 1993 - 2002 || 0.32 || 55.4 || 65.0 || 20.99 || 6.67<br />
|-<br />
! Seat <br />
| Ibiza || 1993 - 1999 || 0.33 || || || 20.88 || 6.89<br />
|-<br />
! Seat <br />
| Toledo || 1991 - 1998 || 0.32 || 56.1 || 65.4 || 21.10 || 6.78<br />
|-<br />
! Škoda <br />
| Felicia || 1994 - 2001 || 0.346 || 55.7 || 64.37 || 20.91 || 7.23<br />
|-<br />
! Škoda <br />
| Octavia || 1996 - || 0.32 || || || 22.17 || 7.10<br />
|-<br />
! Subaru<br />
| Impreza 2.5RS || 1993 - 2001 || 0.36 ||55.5 || 67.1 ||20.9 || 7.54<br />
|-<br />
! Subaru<br />
| Impreza WRX || 2002 - 2007 || 0.33 || 56.7 || 68.1 ||22.63 ||7.47<br />
|-<br />
! Subaru <br />
| Legacy || 1994 - 1999 || 0.35 || || || 23.25 || 8.18<br />
|-<br />
! Subaru <br />
| Legacy || 2009 || 0.31 || 56.5 || 68.1 || 22.44 ||6.96<br />
|-<br />
! Subaru<br />
| Legacy Wagon || 1995 - 1999 ||0.32 ||57.1 ||67.5 ||22.5 ||7.20<br />
|-<br />
! Subaru<br />
| Legacy Outback Wagon || 1995 - 1999 ||0.32 ||63.0 ||67.0 ||24.6 ||7.87<br />
|-<br />
! Subaru<br />
| Legacy Outback Wagon || 2000 - 2004 ||0.32 ||58.3 ||68.7 ||23.4 ||7.48<br />
|-<br />
! Subaru<br />
| Outback Wagon || 2005 - 2009 ||0.31 ||58.1 ||68.1 ||23.1 ||7.15<br />
|-<br />
! Subaru<br />
| Outback Wagon || 2010 - ||0.37 ||65.7 ||71.7 ||27.5 ||10.16<br />
|-<br />
! Subaru<br />
| Loyale Wagon || 1988 - 1994 ||0.38 ||53.0 ||65.4 ||19.75 ||7.50<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota <br />
| Camry || 1991 - 1996 || 0.31 || || || 22.06 || 6.80<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| Camry Solara || 1999 - 2003 || 0.36 || 55.1 ||71.1 ||22.0 || 7.93<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota <br />
| Carina || 1996 - 2001 || 0.30 || 54.9 || 66.7 || 20.99 || 6.35<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| Celica GT-S || 1994 - 1999 ||0.34 || 50.1 ||68.3 ||19.2 || 6.54<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| Celica GT || 2000 - 2006 ||0.32 || 51.4 || 68.3 || 20.5 || 6.55<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| Corolla ||1993 - 1997 || 0.33|| 53.5|| 66.3|| 20.0|| 6.58<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| Corolla ||1998 - 2002 ||0.31 || 54.5 ||66.7 ||20.4|| 6.34<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| Corolla|| 2003 - 2008|| 0.30 ||58.5 || 66.9 ||22.0 ||6.60<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| Corolla || 2009 - ||0.29 || 57.7|| 69.3 || 22.5 ||6.52<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| Echo ||2000 - 2005 ||0.29 ||59.4 || 65.4 || 21.9|| 6.34<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| iQ 3dr ||2010 - || 0.299|| || || 23.1 ||6.89<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| Matrix ||2003 - 2008 ||0.32 ||61.6 || 69.9 ||24.2 ||7.75<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| Matrix ||2009 - ||0.33 || 61.0 ||69.5 || 23.8|| 7.87<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| MR2 || 1985 - 1989 || 0.32 ||49.2 ||65.5 || 18.1|| 5.80<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| MR2 ||1991 - 1995|| 0.31|| 48.6 ||66.9 ||18.3 || 5.67<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| MR-Spyder ||1999 - 2007 ||0.31 ||48.8 ||66.7 ||18.3 || 5.68<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| Paseo ||1992 - 1995 || 0.32 ||50.5 ||65.2 ||18.5 || 5.93<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| Paseo ||1996 - 1998 || 0.32 ||51.0 || 65.4 ||18.8 ||6.00<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| Previa || 1990-2000 || 0.33 || 69.0|| 70.9 ||28.5 ||9.42<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| Prius || 2000 - 2003 ||0.29 || 57.6 ||66.7 ||21.6 || 6.27<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| Prius ||2004 - 2009 ||0.26 ||58.7 ||67.9 ||22.4 || 5.83<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| Prius ||2010 - 2015 ||0.25 ||58.3 ||68.7 ||23.4 || 5.84<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| Prius C ||2012 - ||0.28 ||56.9 ||66.7 ||22.1 || 6.20<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| Sienna ||2011 - ||0.309 || || || || <br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| Supra ||1993 - 2002 ||0.32 ||50.2 || 71.3 ||20.1 || 6.44<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| Tercel ||1991 - 1994 || 0.36 || 53.1|| 64.8 || 19.4|| 6.97<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| Tercel ||1995 - 1999 || 0.32|| 53.2|| 65.4 ||19.6 || 6.26<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| Yaris ||2007 - 2013 || 0.29|| 56.5 || 66.5|| 21.1 ||6.13<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| Yaris ||2014 - || 0.29|| 59.4 || 66.7 || 23.1 ||6.70<br />
|-<br />
! Volkswagen<br />
| 1L Concept || || 0.15|| 39.6 ||49.2 || 11.0 || 1.65<br />
|-<br />
! Volkswagen<br />
| XL1 || 2014 - || 0.189 || 45.4 || 65.6 || 15.87 || 3.00<br />
|-<br />
! Volkswagen<br />
| Beetle || 1998 - ||0.38 || 59.5 || 67.9 || 22.7 || 8.64<br />
|-<br />
! Volkswagen<br />
| Beetle || 1959 - 1979 ||0.48 || 0 || 0 || 0 || 0<br />
|-<br />
! Volkswagen <br />
| Caravelle/Transporter || 1990 - 2003 || 0.37 || || || 33.37 || 12.27<br />
|-<br />
! Volkswagen <br />
| Golf || 1997 - 2003 || 0.32 || || || 21.31 || 6.89<br />
|-<br />
! Volkswagen <br />
| Golf Variant || 1997 - 2003 || 0.34 || || || 22.06 || 7.43<br />
|-<br />
! Volkswagen<br />
| Jetta ||1993 - 1999 ||0.30 || 56.1 ||66.7 || 21.0 || 6.31<br />
|-<br />
! Volkswagen<br />
| Jetta ||1986-1992 ||0.36 || 55.7 ||65.5 || 21.79 || 7.84<br />
|-<br />
! Volkswagen<br />
| Jetta sedan || 2000 - 2005 || 0.30 ||56.7 || 68.3 ||21.8 || 6.54<br />
|-<br />
! Volkswagen<br />
| Jetta || 2006 - ||0.31 || 57.4 || 70.1 || 22.6 ||7.02<br />
|-<br />
! Volkswagen<br />
| Jetta wagon || 2000 - 2005 || 0.30 || 58.5|| 68.3 || 22.5 ||6.74<br />
|-<br />
! Volkswagen<br />
| Passat || 1995 - 1997 || 0.31 || 56.4 ||67.5 ||21.4 ||6.64<br />
|-<br />
! Volkswagen<br />
| Passat Wagon || 1995 - 1997 ||0.33 || 58.7 ||67.5 ||22.3 ||7.36<br />
|-<br />
! Volkswagen<br />
| Passat Wagon B5 || 2000 ||0.27 || 57.5 ||68.5 ||22.97 ||6.20<br />
|-<br />
! Volkswagen <br />
| Polo || 1994 - 2002 || 0.33 || || || 20.45 || 6.67<br />
|-<br />
! Volkswagen <br />
| Sharan ||1995 - 2000 || 0.32 || 69.4 || 71.3 || 28.84 || 9.15<br />
|-<br />
! Volkswagen <br />
| Vento/Jetta || 1992 - 1999 || 0.32 || 56.3 || 66.5 || 21.42 || 6.89<br />
|-<br />
! Volvo <br />
| 850 || 1992 - 1997 || 0.32 || 55.7 || 69.3 || 23.03 || 7.43<br />
|-<br />
! Volvo <br />
| 940 || 1990 - 1998 || 0.34 || 55.5 || 69.3 || 23.14 || 7.86<br />
|-<br />
! Volvo<br />
| C70 Coupe ||1997 - 2005 || 0.32 || 55.1|| 72.0 ||22.3 || 7.14<br />
|-<br />
! Volvo<br />
| V70/V70XC ||1996 - 2000 || 0.32 || 56.2|| 69.3 ||22.7 || 7.26<br />
|-<br />
! Volvo<br />
| V70/V70XC ||2001 - 2009 || 0.30 || 57.6|| 71.0 ||24.0 || 7.20<br />
|-<br />
! Make !! Model !! Year !! Cd !! Height (In) !! Width (In) !! Frontal Area (ft^2) !! CdA<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==EcoModded Vehicles==<br />
{| border="1"<br />
|+ Vehicle CdA<br />
! Make !! Model !! Year !! Cd !! Height (In) !! Width (In) !! Frontal Area (ft^2) !! CdA<br />
|-<br />
! Honda <br />
| AeroCivic || 1992 || 0.17 || 50.9 || 66.9 || 19.9 || 3.38<br />
|-<br />
! Toyota<br />
| T100 || ??? || 0.27 ||??? || 75.2 || ??? || ???<br />
|}</div>MetroMPGhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Wiring_diagramsWiring diagrams2018-07-09T13:44:41Z<p>MetroMPG: Created page with "Return to Main Page<br> ---- I am a new user to the MPGuino and Ecomodder. My technical background allowed me to install my MPGuino with only a little help with..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]<br><br />
----<br />
I am a new user to the MPGuino and Ecomodder. My technical background allowed me to install my MPGuino with only a little <br />
help with injector timing and VSS pulse stats from previous postings. Now as thanks, I want to contribute back to the forums <br />
what I can to help those with the ambition though not the skills to tackle the whole project without help.<br />
<br />
This information may already be in the forums, but hopefully this will become a concise location for purely wiring and pinouts.<br />
<br />
My offer is resources to anyone needing wiring diagrams. Doesn't have to pertain to the MPGuino necessarily. <br />
I have access to a technical database of automotive repair (2008-1982). This includes exploded diagrams w/pinouts and wire colors, <br />
repair procedures, and a great deal of part numbers. About anything you would need short of the common sense needed to apply the information.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
== Ford ==<br />
[[Media:1993 Ford Escort p1.jpg|1993 Ford Escort ECU Pinout page 1]]<br />
<br />
[[Media:1993 Ford Escort p2.jpg|1993 Ford Escort ECU Pinout page 2]]<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Media:1996_taurus.jpg|1996 Taurus ECU Pinout page 1]]<br />
<br />
[[Media:1996 taurus p2.jpg|1996 Taurus ECU Pinout page 2]]<br />
<br />
[[Media:1996 taurus p3.jpg|1996 Taurus ECU Pinout page 3]]<br />
<br />
<br />
== Toyota ==<br />
[[Media:2001_Echo_p1.jpg|2001 Toyota Echo ECU Pinout page 1]]<br />
<br />
[[Media:2001_Echo_p2.jpg|2001 Toyota Echo ECU Pinout page 2]]</div>MetroMPGhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Ecomodding_projectsEcomodding projects2018-07-09T13:42:49Z<p>MetroMPG: MetroMPG moved page Ecomodding projects to EcoModding projects</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]<br />
[[Image:wrench-diag.jpg|right|thumb|400px|frame|Ecomodding Projects]]<br />
'''/!\ This Page is under construction - Please help it grow /!\'''<br><br />
This is the category where you can link or create a page for your cars modifications<br><br />
<br />
Visitors to this site that want to get better fuel efficiency should find many ways to decrease their fuel usage with independantly tested improvement results, tested by ecomodder users. Visitors that are interested in these modifications or have other ideas may find the [http://ecomodder.com/forum/ ecomodder forums ] worthwhile as most of the data in this wiki has been generated by the forum users.<br><br />
<br />
<br />
All ecomodder users are encouraged to modify the pages contained in these links with their own experiences, users must sign in to modify pages. For all mods please only list scientifically backed information and please provide supporting references with links. Efficiency improvement results should only be based on back to back tests under the same conditions. If there is no proven tested efficiency improvement listed ecomodders are welcome to estimate an efficiency improvement however please state that it is an estimate.<br><br />
<br />
For any significant changes or suggestions to this page, please discuss here: [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mod-list-discussion-wiki-up-running-thread-suggestions-14289.html Main Mod Page Forum Discussion Link]<br />
<br />
<br />
Drivers can also perform efficient driving techniques for free efficiency gains. See the wiki for a comprehensive list : '''[[Hypermiling_Techniques|Efficient Driving Techniques Wiki]]'''<br><br />
<br />
Drivers can also perform modifications to their cars for higher efficiency gains. See below for a wiki with a comprehensive list : '''[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main|Car Efficiency Modifications Wiki]]'''<br><br />
<br />
=EcoModding Projects=<br />
Here will be listed the project pages you can create for your ecomodded cars.<br />
<br />
*Please, this is only for ecomod projects, not for discussion.<br />
==Small Gasoline Cars==<br />
List of all the Small Gasoline Cars moddification pages :<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"<br />
! width="30%"|Car Model, year, transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="10%"| % Above EPA :!!width="10%"| Description : <br />
|-<br />
| Toyota Echo Sedan, 2005, Manual || 30 MPG (US) || 38 MPG (US) || 33 MPG (US) || 63.5 MPG (US) || 91.5% Above EPA ||[[Echo-Troll Ecomodding Project]]<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Small Diesel Cars==<br />
List of all the Small Diesel Cars moddification pages :<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"<br />
! width="30%"|Car Model, year, transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="30%"| Description : <br />
|-<br />
|(Ex. VolksWagon Jetta TDi, 2004, Manual)|| (Ex, 25 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 35 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 30 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 45 MPG (US)) || (Description and link to your ecomodding projects or thread.)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
==Gasoline Trucks/Pickups==<br />
List of all the Gasoline Trucks/Pickups moddification pages :<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"<br />
! width="30%"|Car Model, year, transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="30%"| Description : <br />
|-<br />
|(Ex. Honda CR-V, 2004, Automatic)|| (Ex, 25 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 35 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 30 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 45 MPG (US)) || (Description and link to your ecomodding projects or thread.)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
==Diesel Trucks/Pickups==<br />
List of all the Diesel Trucks/Pickups moddification pages :<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"<br />
! width="30%"|Car Model, year, transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="30%"| Description : <br />
|-<br />
|(Ex. Dodge Ram, 2004, Manual)|| (Ex, 25 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 35 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 30 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 45 MPG (US)) || (Description and link to your ecomodding projects or thread.)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
==Small Hybrid Cars==<br />
List of all the Small Hybrid Cars moddification pages :<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"<br />
! width="30%"|Car Model, year, transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="30%"| Description : <br />
|-<br />
|(Ex. Honda Insight, 2006, Manual)|| (Ex, 65 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 55 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 60 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 80 MPG (US)) || (Description and link to your ecomodding projects or thread.)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
==Hybrid Trucks==<br />
List of all the Hybrid Trucks Cars moddification pages :<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"<br />
! width="30%"|Car Model, year, transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="30%"| Description : <br />
|-<br />
|(Ex. Ford Escape Hybrid, 2010, CVT)|| (Ex, 45 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 55 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 50 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 65 MPG (US)) || (Description and link to your ecomodding projects or thread.)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
==All EV Cars==<br />
List of all the EV Cars moddification pages :<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"<br />
! width="30%"|Car Model, year, transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="30%"| Description : <br />
|-<br />
|(Ex. Nissan Leaf, 2012, CVT)|| (Ex, 100 MPGe (US)) || (Ex, 80 MPGe (US)) || (Ex, 90 MPGe (US)) || (Ex, 145 MPGe (US)) || (Description and link to your ecomodding projects or thread.)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
==Motorcycle==<br />
List of all the Motorcycle moddification pages :<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"<br />
! width="30%"|Car Model, year, transmission :!!width="10%"| EPA City :!!width="10%"| EPA Hwy :!!width="10%"| EPA Combined :!!width="10%"| Your Average MPG :!!width="30%"| Description : <br />
|-<br />
|(Ex. Kawasaki ZX6, 2010, Manual)|| (Ex, 85 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 75 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 80 MPG (US)) || (Ex, 100 MPG (US)) || (Description and link to your ecomodding projects or thread.)<br />
|-<br />
|}<br />
<br />
==Template==<br />
Here is a template if you want to create a page for your ecomodded car :<br><br />
'''[[Template:Ecomodding project|Template to create your project page]]'''</div>MetroMPGhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Open_ReVoltOpen ReVolt2018-07-09T13:42:28Z<p>MetroMPG: Created page with "Return to Main Page<br> ---- Image:Revolt_color.jpg == '''Quick Links - Active Open ReVolt Wiki Projects''' == Open ReVolt/PCB Schematics|'''*** Open ReV..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]<br><br />
----<br />
[[Image:Revolt_color.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== '''Quick Links - Active Open ReVolt Wiki Projects''' ==<br />
<br />
[[Open ReVolt/PCB Schematics|'''*** Open ReVolt Projects - BOM, Firmware, PCB and Schematic Files ***''']]<br />
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[[Open ReVolt/Fab Files|'''*** Open ReVolt Project - Fabrication Files ***''']]<br />
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=='''Open ReVolt Disclaimer'''==<br />
*The Open ReVolt “projects” on this Wiki carry no warranty or guarantee of any kind! <br />
*The electronics and software on this Open ReVolt Wiki have been produced for the benefit of the DIY EV & electronics community. <br />
*The electronics and software on this Open ReVolt Wiki are available as “open source” for all to user’s or modify or adapt as they see fit; no claims are made to their suitability for any particular function.<br />
*All Open ReVolt electronics and software “projects” on this Wiki are to be used at the user’s own risk; the user should question their experience level before starting a project. <br />
*If user’s are not fully competent to work on “POTENTIALLY LETHAL HIGH VOLTAGE” battery systems then “DO NOT EXPERIMENT” with the Open ReVolt “projects” on this Wiki. <br />
*Prospective users will be accepting personal risk when starting an Open ReVolt “project”, all liability will be exclusively assumed by that user and will not carry over to any other user.<br />
*Be aware that users risk of vehicle modifications could lead to invalidated insurance and warranty issues. The user is fully liable for any modifications made to the vehicle.<br />
<br />
----<br />
<br />
'''As the name would imply''', Open ReVolt is '''open''', which means all EV Electronics development here happens online for everyone to see. Want to know what a certain circuit, part, or code for this project does and why? It's all in this Wiki and on the [http://ecomodder.com/forum/open-revolt-open-source-dc-motor-controller.html Forum]. In the forum many, many people with different experience levels from all over the world share their new ideas, and suggestions for improvements by watching Open ReVolt Projects for mistakes and potential problems. ''That could be your input too !!!''<br />
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The goal of the "Open ReVolt Project" is to make quality and reliable EV Electronics at an '''Affordable''' cost for Amateur EV Conversion. That means being smart with what components are called for, group buying to drive down cost, and taking advantage of generously donated parts, time, and resources.<br />
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<br />
'''The Open ReVolt "Cougar" DC motor controller''' is a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-width_modulation PWM]-type motor controller designed for sending power to series-wound type DC motors. In its base form, when built using the Bills of Materials for the [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Control_board control board] and the [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Power_board power board], its components are rated to a 200V maximum voltage, and can handle up to 500 or 1000 Amps peak power throughput.<br />
<br />
'''NOTE: In order to prevent blowout of components and leave some "safety room" in the controller, a maximum battery pack voltage of 144V is recommended.'''<br />
<br />
The Open ReVolt is designed to be as '''modular''' as possible. A ''[[Open ReVolt/Control board|control board]]'' houses all the low-voltage electronics - such as microcontrollers, data cables, and throttle cables. A ''[[Open ReVolt/Power board|power board]]'' contains the MOSFETs, capacitors, and diodes, as well as the bus bars which connect to the motor and batteries. To protect the control board from the high voltage components, it is connected to the power board with an optoisolator. The control board uses its own separate 12V battery for power, instead of needing a high-voltage capable DC to DC converter. This helps to reduce cost and simplify the design.<br />
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Since the two boards are modular, you can size the power board for your vehicle without affecting the control board. An electric bike and an electric lorry could use the same control board (simply by attaching it to a higher-current power board). The power board can accept any battery voltage from 0 to 144 V.<br />
<br />
This wiki is a work in progress. If you've read through [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-144v-motor-controller-6404.html the thread] and can contribute to building this wiki, please [http://ecomodder.com/forum/register.php register] and get to work!<br />
<br />
[[Image:open-source-diy-controller.jpg]]<br />
<br />
==Frequently Asked Questions==<br />
[[Open ReVolt/FAQ|Frequently Asked Questions]]<br />
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<br />
=='''Open ReVolt projects'''== <br />
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'''>'''EV 500 Amp DC Motor Controller PCB & Mosfet Power PCBs''' are at Rev2c and here on the wiki.<br />
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'''>'''EV 1000 Amp DC Motor Controller, Mosfet Power PCB, and Mosfet Driver PCB''' are on wiki, preliminary development is on going.<br />
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'''>'''EV AC Motor Controller PCB -''' is on wiki, preliminary development is on going.<br />
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'''>'''EV DC LCD Instrumentation PCB -''' '' is now on wiki !!!''<br />
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'''>'''EV 6Kw DC Charger Controller PCB -''' is on wiki, preliminary development is on going.<br />
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'''>'''EV BMS Controller PCB -''' ''Was added to the wiki !!!''<br />
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'''>'''EV IGBT Driver PCB -''' ''Was added to the wiki !!!''<br />
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'''* Planned Future Open ReVolt projects *'''<br />
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'''>''' The Uprising '''EV Series DC Motor Controller, and IGBT Driver PCB''' is on wiki, preliminary development is on going.''<br />
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==EV 500 & 1000 Amp DC Motor Controller "ReVolt" Features==<br />
*Continuous current rating of 500 or 1000 Amps.<br />
*Any voltage input in the range of 0 to 144v.<br />
*15.6 kHz switching frequency.<br />
*Adjustable hardware overcurrent shutdown.<br />
*Hardware over-current shuts down in 3-4 µs. [1]<br />
*RS-232 interface.<br />
*Reprogrammable.<br />
*High pedal lockout.<br />
*The controller will not close the main contactor if the mosfets have failed shorted.<br />
*Protection from many potentially destructive errors: [2]<br />
**Control board power polarity reversed<br />
**12V supply connected to throttle<br />
**Full throttle at 0 RPM<br />
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For a more detailed description of what each feature is and does, please see the [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Open_ReVolt/Current_Features Current Features] page.<br />
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==AC Motor Controller Features==<br />
* Hardware overcurrent protection - Regen can be set anywhere from 0 to 300 amps per phase.<br />
* Positive amp draw limit per phase can be set anywhere in 0 to 300 amps.<br />
* Isolated PWM Drivers (6) - Firmware configurable for ACIM, PMSM, SEPEX, SR, DC motor control.<br />
* Configurations currently supported - ACIM & PMSM motor control.<br />
* Individual Driver DC-DC converters (6) - for scaleable power output (IGBT, MOSFET).<br />
* Isolated driver supplies (6) - Low voltage cutout, (1) below 9v and all (6) drivers are disabled.<br />
* Thermal protection on-board.<br />
* Built in contactor and precharge resistor control.<br />
* Throttle control.<br />
* Communication - RS-232, ISP.<br />
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==EV LCD Instrumentation Features==<br />
* The display is 2 line x 16 character backlit LCD with oversized characters<br />
* It displays both readings taken with local A/D and information transmitted serially from the Cougar.<br />
* Displayed info includes:<br />
** pack voltage (isolated circuitry) 0-204V range<br />
** battery amps (Tamura hall sensor input or Cougar’s output) 0-511A range<br />
** motor amps (Cougar output) <br />
** accessory battery voltage <br />
** motor temp in C or F (via thermistor)<br />
** controller temp in C or F (Cougar output)<br />
** pack temp in C or F (via thermistor)<br />
* Other features:<br />
** calculation & display of SOC based on battery amp usage (peukert is factored in). <br />
** calculation & display of MTE (Miles to empty) based on %SOC per mile/km<br />
** momentary switch to toggle between 2 profiles transmitted to controller<br />
** “Mode” LED to indicate when controller runs with alternate profile<br />
** “Overtemp” LED based on independent thresholds for the 3 measured temps<br />
** Alarm output (NPN sinking)<br />
** PWM output of SOC to interface to existing analog fuel gauge<br />
** Canbus and RS232 interfaces (E-Can controller is integrated in the PIC)<br />
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==EV 6Kw DC Charger Controller Features==<br />
*Modular design - The control board uses a remote current sense and voltage sense board that allows for high resolution measurement using an energy metering IC. You can daisy chain up to 3 of these boards to the main controller to measure all the sources inside the controller. These would be AC input voltage and current, Power Factor Corrected DC voltage and current, and the only board that is required is DC output to batteries voltage and current. These boards can measure up to 400VDc or 264VAC RMS<br />
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*Modular Driver - The driver output section is designed to be customized to your needs, Mosfet or IGBT.<br />
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*Graphic Interface - LCD Display is used to select the charging profile.<br />
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*Simple Interface - A rotary knob next to the LCD is used to select an item on the LCD display, Then pushing the knob to select or set that item.<br />
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*BMS Input - the simple BMS signal that can be either 5 or 12 volts (Jumper Selectable). The input can be used to stop charging when a BMS high cell condition is reached.<br />
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*Vehicle Interlock - You will be able to wire ignition or a contactor coil through this relay to disable the vehicle as soon as power is applied to the charger.<br />
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*Charger Contactor Control - This will be used to disconnect the battery pack from the charger when the charger is not charging. <br />
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*Ethernet Connectivity - The control board includes a 10TBase Ethernet connection for monitoring or communications.<br />
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*Software Features - You will be able to program for charging different vehicles with the same charger.<br />
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==EV BMS Controller Features==<br />
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* Distributed BMS, Master/Module system supports most popular LiFePo4 Battery Cells.<br />
* Low cost digital BMS uses readily available PIC micros.<br />
* Suitable for LiFePo4 cells with voltages from 2.5V to 4.0V<br />
* BMS Module bolts on LiFePo4 cell terminals, 61mm mounting centers.<br />
* BMS System can handle up to 150 LifePo4 cells.<br />
* Low current drain ~ 1 mA per cell.<br />
* Low voltage alarm.<br />
* Loss of communications alarm.<br />
* Measures all cell voltages and displays the highest and lowest.<br />
* Measures all cell temperatures and displays the highest and lowest.<br />
* Does bottom balancing of cells as required with a balancing current of ~ .5A (1/2 A).<br />
* Balancing automatically cancelled if communications lost (prevents cells being discharged in the event of failure).<br />
* Can shut off charger when one cell reaches max voltage.<br />
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<br />
{{Open ReVolt Header}}</div>MetroMPGhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Simulation_and_calculationsSimulation and calculations2018-07-09T13:41:19Z<p>MetroMPG: Created page with "Return to Main Page<br> '''Introduction'''<br> There is great value in being able to simulate or calculate your cars efficiency and what effects it. This allows..."</p>
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<div>[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]<br><br />
<br />
'''Introduction'''<br><br />
There is great value in being able to simulate or calculate your cars efficiency and what effects it. This allows people to concentrate on modifying a particular part of their car that is causing high losses or to evaluate potential modifications which may end up being a waste of time. The links in this wiki page show some methods of calculation and simulation.<br />
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'''List of tools, equations or other useful links'''<br><br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/tool-aero-rolling-resistance.php Ecomodder speed efficiency calculator]<br><br />
This online calculator will calculate your cars theoretical fuel efficiency for different speeds taking into account aerodynamic drag, rolling resistance, and braking. It will only give efficiency for steady state driving that is on flat ground.<br />
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[[Road_Load_Equation|Road Load Equation]] <br><br />
Wiki page that explains the equations that are used in the ecomodder online tool listed above.<br />
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[[Gravity_related_equations|Gravity and inertia related equations]] <br><br />
Wiki page that explains the effect of gravity and inertia on vehicle speed and energy. This relates to going up and down hills and the effect of car weight.<br />
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[[Theoretical_Weight_Energy|Weight effect on efficiency]]<br><br />
Wiki page that shows calculations to evaluate energy lost when braking and how to approximately equate the lost energy to lost fuel efficiency.<br />
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[http://www.flowillustrator.com Flow illustrator]<br><br />
A free simple online wind tunnel simulator, it can only take in a 2D representation of a car therefore it is not very detailed.<br />
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[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/theoretical-gains-weight-reduction-aero-improvements-14953-4.html#post203629n Excel calculator that characterizes braking, aero and rolling losses]<br><br />
This is a excel calculator posted on the ecomodder forum by RobertSmalls. It takes in a cars speed log which is logged once a second, it then calculates where the energy is lost, through braking or aerodynamic drag or rolling resistance</div>MetroMPGhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/EcoDriving_101EcoDriving 1012018-07-09T13:40:23Z<p>MetroMPG: Created page with "Return to Main Page '''Introduction''' EcoDriving 101 is a regroupment of articles about fuel economy tricks and how to do these technics : *'''Wikipedia EcoD..."</p>
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<div>[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]<br />
<br />
'''Introduction'''<br />
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EcoDriving 101 is a regroupment of articles about fuel economy tricks and how to do these technics :<br />
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*'''Wikipedia EcoDriving Page : [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ecodriving Fuel economy-maximizing behaviors]'''<br />
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== EcoDriving 101 ==<br />
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=== EcoDriving 101 : Driving Without Brakes ===<br />
*'''Go to [http://ecomodder.com/blog/hypermiling-101-driving-without-brakes/ EcoDriving : Driving Without Brakes].'''<br />
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=== EcoDriving 101 : Tracking Fuel Consumption ===<br />
*'''Go to [http://ecomodder.com/blog/hypermiling-101-tracking-fuel-consumption/ EcoDriving : Tracking Fuel Consumption].'''<br />
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=== EcoDriving 101 : Reducing Speed ===<br />
*'''Go to [http://ecomodder.com/blog/hypermiling-101-reducing-speed/ EcoDriving : Reducing Speed].'''<br />
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== References ==<br />
=== Forum thread links ===<br />
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=== External links ===<br />
[http://www.ecomodder.com/blog/ EcoModder Blog]<br><br />
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ecodriving Wikipedia EcoDriving Page]<br><br />
[http://http://www.carfuelconsumption.com Lowest to Highest MPG cars]</div>MetroMPGhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Hypermiling_TechniquesHypermiling Techniques2018-07-09T13:39:00Z<p>MetroMPG: Created page with "Return to Main Page<br> Ecomodder has an impressive list of hypermiling tips. This is the main wiki page for the list and links to details about these tips. <br..."</p>
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<div>[[Main_Page|Return to Main Page]]<br><br />
<br />
Ecomodder has an impressive list of hypermiling tips. This is the main wiki page for the list and links to details about these tips. <br><br><br />
All hypermilers are encouraged to modify the pages contained in these links with their own experiences. For all tips please only list scientifically backed information and please provide references where appropriate. Efficiency improvement results should only be based on back to back tests with the same conditions. If there is no proven tested efficiency improvement listed, hypermilers are welcome to list an estimated efficiency improvement however please state that it is an estimate.<br><br><br />
Any theoretical and untested tips please only include in the unproven mod section below.<br><br><br />
As this is a wiki please note anything you place into the wiki can be overwritten or deleted by other users.<br />
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For any significant change suggestions to this page please discuss on the forum linked below<br />
<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/wiki-hypermiling-page-thread-hypermiling-wiki-main-page-14457.html Main Hypermiling Tip Page Forum Discussion Link]<br />
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Drivers can also perform modifications to their cars for higher efficiency gains. See below for a wiki with a comprehensive list.<br />
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[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main|Car Efficiency Modifications Wiki]]<br />
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== Getting started ==<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"<br />
! width="25%"|Modification !!width="10%"| Efficiency Improvement !!width="35%"| Notes !!width="20%"| More Information and How To<br />
|-<br />
|'''Drive less''' || ∞ || miles not driven is a popular way to measure this || a) Live closer to work;<br />
<br />
b) carpool;<br />
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c) bicycle;<br />
<br />
d) walk;<br />
<br />
e) take public transit <br />
|-<br />
|'''Attend a driving clinic''' || Need user data|| ||<br />
|-<br />
| '''Reduce car weight''' || Need user data|| the additional weight you carry in your vehicle doesn't ride for free. It takes energy to move it around. || [[Weight_reduction]]<br />
|-<br />
| '''Let the most efficient driver drive'''|| Need user data || More than one licensed driver in the vehicle? Let the most efficient driver drive! And take the opportunity to learn from his/her wisdom. || <br />
|-<br />
| '''Join a fuel economy forum'''|| 10.6% (one user) || Join an outstanding forum to learn ways to increase your fuel economy by talking to others who share your enthusiasm and goals. || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/register.php Join EcoModder]<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/193129-post51.html]<br />
|-<br />
|'''Remove unused roof racks''' || 14.6% Single user || If your vehicle come with a roof rack and you don't use it, remove it. Same holds true for bike racks. Doing so will reduce aerodynamic drag, resulting in better fuel economy. || [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Roof_rack Aerodynamic mods: Removing roof rack]<br />
|-<br />
|'''Check tire inflation regularly''' || Need user data || Make sure that your tire pressures are, at minimum, set to manufacturer specifications. the higher the pressure, the less rolling resistance. || [http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Increase_tire_pressure_to_max_sidewall Tire pressure more info]<br />
|-<br />
| '''Track your fuel consumption'''|| None by its self, can be used to modify driving|| One of the first steps in improving efficiency is tracking fuel consumption. While tank to tank feedback isn't ideal for feedback on driving technique, recording and minoring your "big picture" can be great motivation. || [http://www.ecomodder.com/blog/2008/05/19/hypermiling-101-tracking-fuel-consumption/ EcoDriving 101 – Tracking Fuel Consumption]<br />
|-<br />
|'''Use a fuel consumption display''' || 27.8% average based on 2 users || Feedback is absolutely critical to improving driving habits. ||[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/ScanGauge_OBD-II_computer Most popular: ScanGauge]<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino_DIY_fuel_consumption_computer DIY: MPGuino and others ]<br />
|}<br />
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== Route selection and trip timing ==<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"<br />
! width="25%"|Modification !!width="10%"| Efficiency Improvement !!width="35%"| Notes !!width="20%"| More Information and How To<br />
|-<br />
|'''Take the road less traveled''' || will all more driving change || Generally speaking, if you have the option of choosing lightly traveled roads over busier ones, you give yourself more flexibility to employ a wider range of fuel saving techniques than if you are surrounded by other vehicles. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Leave early and don't rush''' || will all more driving change || the enemy of efficient driving is finding yourself in a rush. Leave for your destination a little early so you don't feel pressure to drive faster, brake later and otherwise fall back into bad habits. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Crosswind barrier''' || I know it helps me but we need more user data || Headwinds aren't the only winds that increase fuel consumption - cross winds can have a large negative effect as well. In crosswind conditions, choosing a route with a barrier (trees or buildings) along the edge will save fuel compared to a road in the open. || [[Crosswind barrier details ]]<br />
|-<br />
|'''the 'corridor effect'''' || Need user data || All else being equal, traveling at a constant speed on a freeway within a flow of traffic (in the same direction) is more efficient than going the same speed in isolation. the reason is aerodynamic: a flow of traffic generates a localized wind current in the direction of travel. You will benefit from this artificial breeze. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Note your transition points''' || Need user data || If you regularly travel the same roads, make a conscious effort to note (memorize) the points along the way where transitions occur that maximize efficiency. EG. memorize where you can initiate a coast to just make it to the next stop sign. Or note at what speed you can crest a hill so you're traveling just fast enough for the next transition after the descent. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Time your gas station trips''' || Need user data || Plan to refuel your car during off-peak times to avoid lines and excessive idling. || <br />
<br />
|-<br />
|'''Avoid drive-thrus''' || Need user data || Avoid drive thru windows. They lead to excessive idling. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Lane of least resistance''' || Need user data || In multi-lane traffic, choose the "lane of least resistance" to avoid unnecessary and unpredictable braking/changes in speed. EG. avoid lanes where buses are starting and stopping, or cars may be braking unpredictably to turn into driveways/parking lot entrances. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Avoid stops at bottom of hills''' || Need user data || Avoid roads with stops at the bottom of hills (which force you to brake and waste the kinetic energy you just gained going downhill). || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Take advantage of the wind''' || Need user data || If possible, time trips to take advantage of strong tailwinds. Avoid setting out into strong headwinds/crosswinds. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Choose smooth road surfaces''' || Need user data || Choose a route with a smooth, paved/concrete surface over gravel or rough, broken roads, all else being equal. Smoother surfaces offer reduced rolling resistance. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Avoid bad weather''' || Need user data || Avoid driving in inclement weather if possible, as rain/snow/slush can dramatically increase rolling resistance. the exception to this rule may be when high winds (tailwinds) can be used to your advantage. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Avoid peak traffic''' || Need user data || If you have the option, avoid travel during peak traffic times. With the roads full of other drivers, you have fewer options for using driving techniques that the herd doesn't typically use or tolerate (e.g. reduced highway speeds, drawn out coasting up to stop signs, etc). || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Drive when it's warm out''' || Need user data || If you have the flexibility, time your trips to coincide with warm temperatures (ie. middle of the day) rather than cold (night/early morning). Cold tires and drive train experience more rolling and mechanical resistance, and a cold engine is less efficient. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Pick up cargo "high", deliver "low"''' || Need user data || If possible, shop at stores that are higher in elevation than your home. That way the extra weight you pick up (shopping items) is on board for the descending return leg where it's less of a penalty than it would be on an ascending return leg. || <br />
<br />
|}<br />
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== Sub/urban driving ==<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"<br />
! width="25%"|Modification !!width="10%"| Efficiency Improvement !!width="35%"| Notes !!width="20%"| More Information and How To<br />
|-<br />
|'''Conserve momentum: stop sign 'stop and crawl'''' || Need user data || When multiple vehicles ahead of you are progressing through a stop sign (or a right turn at a red light), this represents a mini 'stop and crawl' situation normally found in a bumper to bumper traffic jam. Time your approach, to arrive at the stop sign as the last car ahead is departing. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Conserve momentum: take a shortcut''' || Need user data || Sometimes options exist to go through corner parking lots, side streets, or alleyways to get around having to come to a stop at an intersection or behind another vehicle. Of course the utmost care must be taken in parking lots as they present their own risks (pedestrians, vehicles reversing from parking spots, etc.) Also, cutting through corner parking lots may be illegal in some areas. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Combining errands: do the longest leg first''' || Need user data || When combining multiple trips into one journey, go to your farthest destination first, and work your way back. This ensures the vehicle is warmed up as much as possible before subjecting it to multiple starts and stops. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Minimize idling when stopped''' || Need user data || If you're going to be stopped for more than a few seconds, shift to neutral and shut off your engine. This is one of the main reasons hybrid vehicles get such good fuel economy in urban driving. Caveat 1: this assumes your vehicle is in good tune and will re-start immediately, every time. Caveat 2: if you're a defensive driver, you're habitually evaluating the risk of a rear crash when slowing and when stopped. Obviously you will want to leave your engine on in those circumstances (for a quick rear crash avoidance maneuver). || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Traffic light timing - stale 'green', no pedestrian signal''' || Need user data || In the absence of any other indication about how stale the light is (eg. if there's no pedestrian signal or waiting cross traffic), assume that the green light ahead is about to change. Adjust your approach speed accordingly (IF traffic permits - ie. you don't hold anyone up) to avoid a full-on brake application should the light change. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Combine errands''' || Need user data || Avoid very short trips. If you have multiple stops, plan them to do all on the same trip. Fuel economy is enhanced once the engine is warmed up, so a longer "chain" of errands will result in better fuel economy than multiple short ones, particularly in cold weather. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Traffic light timing - red lights with sensors''' || Need user data || When approaching a red light, slow down early if there's a car in front of you that can trip the sensor so you may not have to come to a complete stop. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Traffic light timing - 'stale' green''' || Need user data || When approaching an intersection with a green light you can watch the pedestrian signal crossing light to help determine when it will turn yellow. || <br />
<br />
|}<br />
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== Highway Driving ==<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"<br />
! width="25%"|Modification !!width="10%"| Efficiency Improvement !!width="35%"| Notes !!width="20%"| More Information and How To<br />
|-<br />
|'''Lights on for safety; lights off for MPG''' || Need user data || Depending on the vehicle, power demands of the ighting system ranges from a few watts to well over 100 watts, all of which is ultimately powered by gasoline. In the US, where DRL implementation is voluntary, automakers have an exemption from CAFE testing which permits vehicles' fuel economy to be tested with the lights switched off. Switching off DRLs where their safety contribution is minimal (eg. driving on a divided, controlled access highway) will save a small amount of fuel. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Find/adopt a 'blocker' for slower freeway speeds''' || Need user data || Some people are uncomfortable driving at speeds less than the average flow of traffic on multi-lane freeways. One solution is to find another vehicle going the speed you want to travel (large, conspicuous vehicles work particularly well) and drive either ahead of or behind it. (Note: this is not a suggestion to draft.) || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Close the sunroof at higher speeds''' || Need user data || Some sunroof styles are better than others. the worst offenders are the kind which tilt and slide to the outside, on top of the roof. When open, these "roof-top spoilers" can significantly increase aerodynamic drag. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Drafting: cross wind''' || Need user data || In rare circumstances, it is possible to effectively "draft" a larger vehicle in cross wind conditions without following directly behind it. When cross wind conditions cause the low pressure area trailing the lead vehicle to extend into adjacent lanes, you can take advantage of reduced drag legally and with reduced risk. Note: 1) this is not describing side-by-side driving, but postioning that is offset to the rear. 2) While visibility directly ahead is increased, a significant chunk of the driving picture may still be blocked depending on the size of the lead vehicle. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Drafting: close behind (not recommended!)''' || Mythbusters results from drafting a truck<br>100 ft: 10.9%<br>50 ft: 20.3%<br>20 ft: 26.5%<br> 10ft: 39%<br>2 ft: 28.1% || 1) At highway speeds there's no doubt that driving close behind a large vehicle dramatically reduces fuel consumption. 2) It's a stupid thing to do. It's not recommended for many reasons, not the least of which is that it's illegal in most areas, and doing so sacrifices the foundation of safe and defensive driving: your ability to see well ahead. || <br />
<br />
|-<br />
|'''Windows Up''' || Need user data || Drive with windows up at higher speeds to minimize aerodynamic drag. Use flow-through ventilation if possible. ||<br />
<br />
|-<br />
|'''Reduce speed''' || Need user data || Aerodynamic drag increases exponentially with speed, so reduce highway cruising speed as much as practical and safe. Generally, a vehicle's most efficient speed is just after its highest gear has engaged. || <br />
[http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Image:Fuel_economy_vs_speed_1997.png MPG vs speed graph]<br />
<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/blog/hypermiling-101-reducing-speed/ EcoDriving 101 – Reducing Speed]<br />
|-<br />
|'''Constant throttle position cruising''' || Need user data || Once up to speed, pick a throttle position and hold it. Advantages: more efficient than using the cruise control (which varies throttle position frequently and wastes fuel on hills). Disadvantages: less efficient than "driving with load" (DWL) / "target driving" (where the throttle is eased on inclines). || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Cruise control - when to use it''' || Need user data || Set the cruise control if you're the type of driver whose speed creeps up higher and higher the longer you're on the road, or if you have difficulty holding a steady speed (it wanders up and down). But realize that cruise control is just a band aid for those behaviours. Generally it's less efficient than constant throttle driving, and much less efficient than "driving with load" / "target driving". || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Cruise control - when not to use it''' || Need user data || Only use cruise control on flat roads. On hilly roads, cruise responds to changes in grade - by feeding in more throttle on the uphill and releasing on the descent - in the exact opposite way an efficient driver would. || <br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Braking tips ==<br />
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|-<br />
|'''the most efficient way to slow down''' || Need user data || When you *have* to slow down, here's an approximate heirarchy of methods, from best to worst. 1) coasting in neutral, engine off (ie. roll to a stop);<br />
2) coasting in neutral, engine idling;<br />
3) regenerative coasting (hybrid vehicles)<br />
4) regenerative braking (hybrid vehicles)<br />
5) coasting in "deceleration fuel cut-off" mode (in gear, above a certain engine RPM)<br />
6) conventional friction braking (non-hybrid or hybrid)<br />
Choosing the right method depends on traffic conditions (following vehicles) and how quickly you need to stop. <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Conserve momentum: avoid stopping''' || Need user data || Avoid coming to a complete stop whenever possible (and when safe and legal of course). It takes much less energy to accelerate a vehicle when it's already traveling just a few kilometers per hour than it does from a complete stop. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Hybrids: minimize regen braking''' || Need user data || While regenerative braking in hybrid vehicles - capturing braking energy into the battery - is more efficient than braking with conventional friction brakes, it's still not as efficient as 'driving without brakes' (DWB). So even if you drive a hybrid, you'll get better economy when you minimize use of the brake pedal. <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''"Drive without brakes" (DWB)''' || Need user data || Minimize use of the brake pedal. Each time you press it, you're effectively converting gasoline into brake dust and heat. Driving as if you have no brakes will cause you to do two things: 1) reduces 'excessive' acceleration, and, 2) extends the amount of time you spend coasting down to stops and turns. Obviously you have to balance use of this technique against traffic conditions so as not to adversely affect other drivers. || [http://ecomodder.com/blog/hypermiling-101-driving-without-brakes/ EcoDriving 101 – Driving Without Brakes]<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Advanced techniques ==<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"<br />
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|-<br />
|-<br />
|'''Drive shoeless''' || Need user data || Some hardcore hypermilers drive in sock or bare feet so they can modulate the accelerator to the finest degree (particularly important when "driving with load" / "target MPG driving" at cruise.<br />
<br />
It shouldn't be that surprising. Race car drivers typically wear extremely thin-sole boots for similar reasons: for the highest level of tactile feedback from the vehicle, and to better finesse the pedals. <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Conserve momentum: brake hard''' || Need user data || It sounds like a contradiction, but there are rare times when braking hard can save fuel compared to coasting or light braking: it's a "damage control" technique when faced with an unpredictable/unanticipated stop or slow down ahead and not a lot of space.<br />
<br />
An example: approaching a fresh red traffic light that had no other indicators to predict the change (no pedestrian signal and no cars waiting on the cross street). If you brake lightly/moderately, you will cover the entire distance to the intersection and have no option but coming to a full stop.<br />
<br />
But if you brake quite hard initially, you can potentially scrub enough speed and buy enough time to coast the remaining distance to the intersection at a low speed. With judgment and some luck, you'll arrive at a fresh green light and avoid a full stop.<br />
<br />
Obviously, rapid deceleration isn't a safe option if there is following traffic. <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Make fuel economy a game/challenge''' || Need user data || Competing against yourself (or others) to get the best possible fuel economy can do wonders for increasing motivation to learn more, refine your skills, and try harder.<br />
<br />
Several web sites like EcoModder.com permit you to track and compare your fuel economy against other drivers, and some organize informal fuel economy challenges.<br />
<br />
Hybrid festivals (e.g. hybridfest.com, greengrandprix.com) periodically run fuel efficiency rallies where you can hone your skills in competition with others in real time. <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Use the 'racing line'''' || Need user data || Knowing how to pick the "racing line" through a corner, when safe, can help to preserve momentum. Generally, the racing line is the path through a turn with the largest possible radius. It may permit a higher speed with more comfort (less body roll and g-forces), and less tire scrub.<br />
<br />
Note this isn't advocating high speed turns, where the cost of increased tire wear may outstrip fuel savings. Even at low speeds, choosing the "racing line" has benefits. <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Encourage a pass: the fake turn''' || Need user data || Drivers who travel below the normal flow of traffic should facilitate drivers approaching from behind to go past safely, with a minimum of interruption.<br />
<br />
"Faking" a turn by signalling and moving into a turning lane (even though you intend to continue straight on) is one option.<br />
<br />
Note: judgment and care is demanded so you don't mislead any driver into making an unwanted move as a result of your "miscommunication". You must be prepared to actually make the turn if your actions create a situation that would make it the safest option. <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Encourage a pass: hug right''' || Need user data || Drivers who travel below the normal flow of traffic should facilitate drivers approaching from behind to go past, rather than force them to slow down.<br />
<br />
One method of gaining the attention of the driver behind is to move your vehicle very obviously to the extreme right of the lane you're traveling in when it's safe for the following vehicle to pass.<br />
<br />
Adding a turn signal to the move or the 4-way flashers may be even more effective.<br />
<br />
Of course, pulling completely off the roadway onto the shoulder to let following traffic by is also worthwhile, if you have the option. <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Hill tactic: don't waste potential energy''' || Need user data || When facing a red traffic light, or some other predictable stop/start situation at the bottom of a hill, you're better off stopping near the top before you've accelerated to full speed. Wait, and time your release to make it through on green, and you avoid turning your potential energy into brake dust and heat. (Also known as 'smart braking'.) <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Engine off coasting''' || 24% difference between engine off compared to idle coasting <br> Single user || Engine-off coasting (EOC) is one of the largest contributors to increased efficiency of hybrid vehicles, many of which automatically shut down the engine when the accelerator is released and the vehicle is coasting.<br />
<br />
EOC can be accomplished in non-hybrids as well simply by shifting to neutral and switching the key from "Run" to "Acc" (being careful not to switch to "Off" and cause the steering to lock). As soon as the engine stops, return the key to the "Run" position or else you will be in danger of locking out your steering and crashing. Also be careful to not steer at all while the key is off to prevent a lock up.<br />
<br />
This technique is best suited to cars with manual steering and manual transmissions. (Dramatically increased steering effort may be required in some cars with power assist. Also, most vehicles with automatic transmissions are not designed to travel with the engine shut off; the transmission may be damaged).<br />
<br />
In non-hybrids, EOC is considered an advanced technique and should not be attempted until the skill developed away from traffic. In addition, coasting with the engine off is illegal in some areas.<br />
<br />
the best way to EOC is with a kill switch that shuts off the engine without removing the key, thereby eliminating the dangers of locking the steering wheel.<br />
<br />
Note: When the engine is off the brake vacuum reserve is not recharged by the engine therefore drivers with the engine off will only get a few brake presses before the brakes no longer work.<br />
|| [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/quick-test-p-g-eoc-vs-w-o-14643.html Quick Test: P&G with EOC vs w/o EOC shows 24% gain]<br />
|-<br />
|'''Drive with load (DWL)''' || Need user data || AKA "target driving". Put most simply, this technique is accomplished by choosing a "target" rate of fuel consumption and ensuring you don't fall below it on hills (or in very strong winds, or any conditions which cause load to vary for a given speed).<br />
<br />
In other words, you will back off the accelerator and lose speed (possibly also downshifting) as you climb, and gain that speed back on the descent.<br />
<br />
It's far more efficient than pressing the accelerator more and more to maintain speed on the way up a hill and then releasing it down the other side.<br />
<br />
DWL is how an efficiency minded person can greatly outperform cruise control in hilly terrain.<br />
<br />
Obviously the ability to use this technique without adversely affecting other drivers depends on the traffic situation.<br />
<br />
As well, fuel economy instrumentation is required to DWL/target drive to the maximum extent, though it can also be done using a vacuum gauge, and to a much lesser extent by the seat of the pants. <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Heavy traffic: play the accordion''' || Need user data || If faced with worst-case "stop & crawl" traffic conditions, leave as much space ahead of you as possible and continually "accordion" that space to keep your vehicle moving near a constant speed while the cars in front of you stop & start.<br />
<br />
Yes, some people will cut into the space you create ahead of you. Deal with it.<br />
<br />
Note that this may aggravate following drivers who can't absorb the big picture, and that must be taken into account. <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Pulse and glide (P&G)''' || 30% improvement estimate || Use pulse and glide (or "burn and coast") rather than maintaining a constant speed, where practical. || [http://www.metrompg.com/posts/pulse-and-glide.htm Pulse and glide explained]<br />
|-<br />
|'''Push it - 1''' || Need user data || If you only have to move your car a very short distance - eg. out of the garage - consider rolling it rather than starting it up to move it. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Push it - 2''' || Need user data || If you're starting out on an incline, give your car a shove to get it rolling as far as possible before starting the engine. || <br />
<br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Parking (and departing) ==<br />
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|-<br />
|'''Start up: wait for the opportunity to move''' || Need user data || Don't start the engine until there's actually an opportunity to start driving: eg. a gap in traffic when exiting a driveway or parking space.<br />
<br />
You can plan even further ahead: don't turn the key until you know you can time the next traffic light down the street. <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Parking tactics: orbit to bleed momentum''' || Need user data || If you find you have too much momentum after reaching your preferred parking spot, continue coasting further down the row or "orbiting" a spot until you can roll to a stop in position without touching the brakes.<br />
<br />
(the extent to which you might continue 'orbiting' depends on whether your engine is on/off and whether you're driving a manual or automatic. Also, it depends on traffic in the lot, obviously.) <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Parking tactics: gravity assist''' || Need user data || Slopes can be useful in manoeuvering into a parking place. One which I regularly back into (it can't be driven through) has a small slope across from it. I kill the engine approaching the slope, and engine-off coast backwards into the spot.<br />
<br />
Gravity can be a hindrance in parking as well. Avoid driving down into a parking "hole" which you must drive out of later. Even if you EOC into the hole, you'll face a net efficiency loss when you drive your cold vehicle up and out later. <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Parking tactics: avoid parallel parking''' || Need user data || For on-street parking, the better spot is one with enough room to pull in/out rather than multiple reverse/forward manoeuvering (parallel parking). <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Parking tactics: reverse in''' || Need user data || If you have no pull-through spots to choose from, reverse in when arriving, instead of driving in when warm and backing out/turning around when the vehicle is cold and fuel economy is at its worst.<br />
<br />
Also note that reversing into a flow of traffic is riskier (and therefore much slower and less efficient) because you may not have a clear view until your vehicle's back end is well out of the space. <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Parking tactics: pick the periphery''' || Need user data || Choosing a spot in the "periphery" of a busy lot will be more efficient than navigating the rows of traffic/pedestrians to get as close as possible to the building or destination. <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Parking tactics: pull-through spot''' || Need user data || Drive into a "pull through" spot, rather than a spot that requires reverse/forward manoeuvering. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Start up: not until you're adjusted''' || Need user data || Don't start the vehicle until you're settled in: seat, seatbelt & mirrors adjusted; passengers settled in as well. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Multiple vehicles: choose the one that's warmed up''' || Need user data || In a multi-vehicle household, if you have the choice of using similar vehicles, choose the one that was driven most recently if it's still warm. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Multiple vehicles: choose the most efficient one in the 'fleet'''' || Need user data || If you have a multi-vehicle household or workplace, choose the most efficient vehicle from the fleet that will accomplish the task at hand. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''When changing direction, use brakes rather than engine''' || Need user data || When going from reverse to a forward gear (or vice versa), don't use the engine to stop the vehicle after the gear change, use the brake. || <br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Transmission tips ==<br />
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|-<br />
|'''Automatic transmission: key off, then Park''' || Need user data || Save a few drops of fuel by modifying your shutdown procedure: when parking, turn off the key *before* shifting to Park and setting the parking brake. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Manual transmission: cruise in high gear''' || Need user data || When cruising at a constant speed, shift to the highest gear you can use without lugging the engine. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Automatic transmission: highest gear/lowest RPM for posted speed''' || Need user data || When cruising, drive to the speed that allows the lowest RPM for the speed zone you are in.<br />
<br />
EG. if the posted speed is 30 and your car shifts into 3rd at 35, you may be able to achieve the 3rd gear shift, then reduce and hold 30 without causing a downshift. <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Automatic transmission: torque converter (TC) lockup''' || Need user data || Drive at the speed that allows the TC (torque converter) to lock up. This is often around 40-45 mph. Speeds just above this typically return the higest cruising fuel economy. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Automatic transmission: neutral when stopped''' || Need user data || Shift automatic transmissions to neutral when stopped (assuming you're going to leave the engine running). Remaining in drive wastes fuel as the engine continues to try to creep the car forward while being held back by the brakes. <br />
Note: Some older cars which do not compensate the idle speed depending on engine load may use more fuel when in idle as the RPMs will go higher and therefore pump more fuel through the engine. Check your fuel usage meter to be sure. <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Automatic transmission: upshift coaxing''' || Need user data || Some automatic transmissions can be coaxed to upshift sooner when accelerating by briefly releasing some throttle pressure, then re-applying to continue accelerating. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Automatic transmission: use OD (overdrive)''' || Need user data || If your transmission has an "OD" (overdrive) button or position, leave it engaged to ensure the transmission will shift into its highest gear as soon as possible. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Automatic transmission: use economy mode''' || Need user data || If your automatic transmission has a "power/economy" button, leave it in economy mode. This usually results in earlier upshifts and later downshifts, saving fuel. || <br />
<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Winter / foul weather ==<br />
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|-<br />
|'''Wait for the snow plow''' || Need user data || Driving through fresh snow increases rolling resistance moderately to dramatically, depending on the depth/type of snow. Better fuel economy will result when you wait for the plows (or for other vehicles to pack the snow down) before setting out.<br />
<br />
Similarly, getting stranded in a ditch or snow drift because you set out in bad weather is a surefire way to waste fuel if you need to idle the car to stay warm while waiting for help. <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Winter: avoid wheel spin on ice/snow''' || Need user data || If you drive in ice/snow, avoid wheelspin when traction is low. Changing to dedicated snow/ice tires that offer better traction may save fuel.<br />
<br />
Wheelspin is especially inefficient if your vehicle is equipped with brake assisted traction control. <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Follow the leader in rain or snow''' || Need user data || In weather conditions that leave a lot of precipitation on the road - heavy rain or snow - drive in the tiretracks of the vehicle in front to reduce rolling resistance.<br />
<br />
An exception to this tip may be on "rutted" surfaces where water tends to pool in the ruts. In that case, driving on the ridges between the ruts offers less resistance. <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Winter: clean off snow & ice''' || Need user data || Completely clear snow & ice off your vehicle before driving. It will minimize your use of energy hungry accessories (defrosters), remove an aerodynamic penalty (increased frontal area), and reduce weight (a layer of ice and snow over an entire vehicle can weigh a surprising amount). || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Winter parking: clean out the garage''' || Need user data || If you have one, clean out your garage so you can park your car inside during the cold months of the year. the faster warm up will return better fuel economy. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Winter: use heated parking''' || Need user data || If you've got the choice, heated parking will improve fuel economy. the potential downside is that it may increase the rate of corrosion if you drive where roads are salted. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Avoid heater use until the engine has reached operating temperature''' || Need user data || Engines runs rich until a minimum temperature threshold is reached. Running the heater blower before that has happened will slightly increase warm-up time and increase fuel consumption. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Avoid 'warm up' idling''' || Need user data || Don't idle your engine to warm it on a cold day. An idling engine gets zero miles per gallon.<br />
<br />
Start to drive - under light loads - as soon as the engine is running smoothly (usually immediately). It's a more efficient way to warm the engine and entire drivetrain, including tires. <br />
|| <br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Hot weather ==<br />
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|-<br />
|'''Cycle the A/C if you have to use it''' || Need user data || If you have to use the air conditioner, set the air flow to recirculate and manually turn the A/C on and off as needed. For greater efficiency, switch it on when under light engine loads or deceleration fuel cut off and off when under moderate/heavy loads. (Note: some newer vehicles do this automatically.) <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Summer: park in the shade''' || Need user data || Parking in the shade will keep the inside of your vehicle cooler, which can help you minimize use of air conditioning.<br />
<br />
If you must park in the sun, placing a sunshade in your windshield will keep your car significantly cooler. <br />
||<br />
|-<br />
|'''Lightly colored interior''' || Need user data || Seats that are white or light tan absorb much less head than black or dark brown seats.<br />
<br />
||<br />
|-<br />
|'''Use a beaded seat cover''' || Need user data || They work surprisingly well as an alternative to (or defer the use of) air conditioning, by letting air flow behind & beneath you. They keep you from sticking to your seat, and your clothes from sticking to you.<br />
<br />
Other non-A/C options include ice vests and DIY ice water A/C units. <br />
||<br />
|-<br />
|'''Minimize air conditioning use''' || Need user data || Air conditioning requires a lot of power. Use it sparingly.<br />
Driving at city speeds, you'll save fuel by using your flow through vents and opening windows.<br />
<br />
At highway speeds, whether A/C is more or less efficient than opening windows will depend on the speed, your vehicle's aerodynamics and A/C design. <br />
||<br />
<br />
|-<br />
|'''Maximum legal tint''' || Depends on many factors || Have your front windows & windshield tinted to the maximum allowed in your state, and have the rear windows & rear windshield tinted as much as possible. Note: states can only regulate the tint amount on the front windows and windshield.<br />
||<br />
|-<br />
|'''Trip timing: avoid the hottest times of day to reduce A/C use''' || Need user data || If you live where the weather is very hot, avoid driving if possible during the peak temperatures of the day when use of the air conditioner is "required." ||<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Just generally good driving tips ==<br />
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|-<br />
|'''Maintain a space cushion''' || Need user data || When driving on a multi-lane roadway, try to maintain a "space cushion" around you.<br />
<br />
IE. avoid driving for any length of time beside a vehicle in the next lane. the more options you leave open for making a prompt lane change if one is needed, the afer and more efficient you'll be (if it means avoiding an unnecessary slowdown). <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Maintain appropriate following distance''' || Need user data || Avoid driving so close behind another vehicle that you are forced to *immediately* brake if it begins slowing down. Important at all times, but particularly in sub/urban driving where traffic changes speed more often.<br />
<br />
Leave enough space that you have time to choose other options (perhaps a lane change).<br />
<br />
In addition, the greater your following distance, the better your forward visibility will be, which enables you to look well ahead and anticipate changes in the driving environment. <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Be smooth''' || Need user data || Smooth use of the accelerator, steering, transmission and brakes is not only more comfortable for you and your passengers, it's also a little more efficient (less scrubbing of tires, energy lost through suspension movement). It's also better for the longevity of the vehicle and in general a sign of a skilled driver. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Use your horn defensively''' || Need user data || Defensive drivers will tap their horns to ensure they have the attention of other motorists or pedestrians in close quarters and potentially risky situations.<br />
<br />
Being proactive will save fuel if it means you can avoid having to brake or stop unnecessarily. <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Look well ahead & anticipate''' || Need user data || Your ability to drive efficiently depends on being able to anticipate changes in the driving environment. the way to do this is by constantly scanning well ahead in your intended path.<br />
<br />
In city driving you should know what's happening at least 10-15 seconds ahead. On the freeway, at least 30 seconds visual lead time is appropriate. <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Drive the posted speed''' || Need user data || Drive the posted speed limit or the minimum allowed, when safe to do so. || <br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Miscellaneous ==<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"<br />
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|-<br />
|'''Don't keep up with the Joneses''' || Need user data || It easy to be competitive when driving. Resist knee-jerk retaliation to other drivers' aggressive actions. Don't let other drivers lead you astray from your driving style. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Minimize use of low range''' || Need user data || Many 4 wheel drive / AWD vehicles also come with high and low transmission ranges. Low range increases engine RPM and fuel consumption for a given gear/road speed combination compared to high. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Minimize use of 4 wheel drive''' || Need user data || the added friction of drive components in four wheel drive mode increases fuel consumption, especially when the center differential is locked and the vehicle is turning. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''If you have to carry items outside the vehicle...''' || Need user data || Carry them on the back of the vehicle, instead of on the roof. Long, skinny items can even be carried beneath some vehicles (with ample ground clearance).<br />
<br />
This is more important the faster and further you intend to go. <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Minimize accessory loads''' || Need user data || Minimize use of electrical and mechanical accessory loads when safe and/or practical (lights, defrost, blower, electric heated seats, dvd players/screens, heated mirrors, etc). || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Use a block heater''' || Need user data || Pre-warm your engine with an electric block heater. Engines are most efficient at full operating temperature, and the block heater helps it get there sooner. About 2 hours is the maximum time needed to pre-warm a small engine. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Drive like you ride a bike''' || Need user data || For you cyclists looking for a way to wrap your head around the subject of efficient motoring: drive like you bike.<br />
<br />
Meaning, if you think about spending energy as wisely in your car as you do when you ride, you should automatically become aware of several of the major tips on this list, such as:<br />
<br />
a) Ensuring your tires are properly inflated & vehicle is in good mechanical condition, for reduced rolling & mechanical resistance.<br />
<br />
b) Smart braking: you'll spend more distance coasting up to stops (you don't pedal madly towards stop signs and then jam on the binders, do you?)<br />
<br />
c) You'll "drive with load" on hills (you don't usually power up hills trying to maintain your previous cruising speed, do you?)<br />
<br />
d) You'll reduce speed (because cyclists are highly attuned to the relationship between aerodynamic drag and the BIG DOG energy consumed to travel at high speed). <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Avoid towing''' || Need user data || Trailer towing delivers the triple whammy of increased weight, higher aerodynamic drag, and a third (or fourth) set of tires for more rolling resistance.<br />
<br />
Carry loads in the vehicle if possible.<br />
<br />
If not, minimize towing speeds and adjust your technique to account for the extra momentum the trailer and its load will add. <br />
|| <br />
|-<br />
|'''Listen to slower music''' || Need user data || Leave the speed metal at home. Fast paced music can make a driver more impatient, more agressive and likely to speed. At the same time, slower paced music is more relaxing and tends to promote a more sensible driving style while also reducing stress. || <br />
|-<br />
|'''Use E-Z Pass (or similar) if you commute on toll roads/bridges''' || Need user data ||Especially handy for high-speed toll passes, because it avoids the slow down and acceleration back up to speed.<br />
<br />
Generally useful anywhere it will help you avoid the stop-and-go/idling in lines approaching the toll booth. <br />
|| <br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Unproven Tips (Ideas or attempts) ==<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"<br />
! width="35%"|Modification !!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement !!width="15%"| Notes !!width="25%"| More Info Required<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Dis-proven tips (Methods that dont work or hurt efficiency) ==<br />
{|cellspacing="0" Border=1 class="sortable"<br />
! width="35%"|Modification !!width="15%"| Efficiency Improvement !!width="15%"| Notes !!width="25%"| More Info Required<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Template ==<br />
<br />
[[Car_tip_template|Template for new tip]]</div>MetroMPGhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Nitrogen_tire_inflationNitrogen tire inflation2018-07-09T13:37:49Z<p>MetroMPG: Created page with "Back to main mod page This is a sample picture <br> Filling your tires with Nitrogen is a service..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:Wrench-diag.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|This is a sample picture]]<br />
<br><br />
Filling your tires with Nitrogen is a service offered by some tire shops, repair facilities, and even car dealers. While typically it costs about $6 USD/tire, the service may be free or may be used to scam misinformed consumers out potentially hundreds of dollars. Alternatively, you can fill your tires with nitrogen yourself with the proper equipment. There is a good deal of argument about the benefits of Nitrogen filled tires in passenger vehicles.<br />
<br><br />
== Theory & Practice ==<br />
Atmospheric air is comprised of about 78% Nitrogen already. Oxygen accounts for another 21%, and the other 1% largely of water vapor, CO2, and noble gases like Argon and Neon. That's right, your tires are filled mostly with Nitrogen already. But it's the other 22% of that atmospheric air where the benefit is to be had. The Nitrogen going into your tires is only about 93% pure, so truly you would only be affecting about 15% of the tires air.<br />
<br />
Nitrogen is less likely to migrate through the rubber walls of the tire than is Oxygen and also reacts much less to changes in temperature. The result is less fluxuation in tire pressure over a greater distance and span of time, cooler tires, and decreased wear. It's heavily used in motor racing for these reasons and for the added benefit of allowing crews to fine tune tire pressure for the track's learning curve and variable conditions. The average passenger car driver will notice this in the car's slighlty improved handling, fuel economy, and in fewer trips to the tire store and the air compressor. Maintaining proper tire pressure is key for fuel economy, so perhaps it will mean fewertrips to the gas station, in the grand scheme of things.<br />
<br />
In theory, replacing atmospheric air with nitrogen would also slightly lighten the wheel assemblies, huge contributors to unsprung weight on any vehicle, thereby decreasing rolling resistance and increasing aerodynamic and thus fuel efficiency. Granted, this is at the molecular level, which is largely immeasurable by the typical DIYer.<br />
<br />
It may also help prevent wheel and tire rot by expelling corrosive water from the inside of the tire.<br />
<br />
== Instructions for mod ==<br />
For anyone without access to bottled nitrogen gas or a nitrogen generator, they will need to take their vehicle and/or wheels to a shop that offers this service.<br />
To properly do this mod, the oxygen and moisture in the tires need to be purged. This cannot be accomplished with a single filling alone. The tires need to be filled with nitrogen and depressurized several times before being properly inflated in order to remove the water and atmospheric air content entirely. A shop typically accomplishes this with an automated machine attached to their air compressor that purges the compressed air of Oxygen and other elements before automatically inflating and deflating the tire several times.<br />
<br />
== User experiences ==<br />
The following is a poorly conducted and unscientific single user test, the parameters of which are entirely undefined here, and the results of which should be taken with a grain of salt - which, oddly enough, is approximately the size of this individuals understanding of the scientific method.<br />
<br><br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1<br />
|+ User data<br />
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link<br />
|-<br />
|oil pan 4 || 1984 Chevy Suburban (displacement, tire & rim size?), 1985 Chevy Camaro (dtr?), 1999 Toyota Tacoma (dtr?) w/ a utility trailer || $0 wasted || 1 Hour || N/A || N/A || No improvements noted || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]<br />
|}<br />
<br><br />
Why were no mileage figures given for before/after? If there was no change, you still provide figures for your baseline. How else can anyone be sure that there was no effect or that they have even tested and controlled for it? Under what conditions were those tests performed? Same day, same track? It is not science without data.<br />
<br><br />
== Problems / Consequences of mod ==<br />
It is largely unnecessary as atmospheric air works fine for 99% of vehicle applications and the benefits of Nitrogen are marginal. Gains would likely be difficult to measure, and a proper ABA test would be impractical for the typical DIYer, if not outright expensive.<br />
<br />
== References ==<br />
=== Forum thread links ===<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/nitrogen-tires-18454.html nitrogen tires]<br />
<br />
=== External links ===<br />
[http://www.barrystiretech.com/nitrogeninflation.html Best link on the internet for real tire info]<br />
[http://www.getnitrogen.org/savebillions/index.php get nitrogen dot org]<br />
[http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/should-you-fill-your-cars-tires-with-nitrogen.html]</div>MetroMPGhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Tornado_insertTornado insert2018-07-09T13:37:34Z<p>MetroMPG: Created page with "Popular Mechanics and UTI dyno tested this and other such products and mods. For this particular product, the TornadoFuelSaver, they cite a 10% decrease in peak hp and found n..."</p>
<hr />
<div>Popular Mechanics and UTI dyno tested this and other such products and mods. For this particular product, the TornadoFuelSaver, they cite a 10% decrease in peak hp and found no conclusive difference in fuel economy. What do you expect from an air intake obstruction? <br><br />
<br><br />
http://www.popular-mechanics.com/cars/alternative-fuel/gas-mileage/1802932</div>MetroMPGhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/HHOHHO2018-07-09T13:36:35Z<p>MetroMPG: Created page with "Back to main mod page This is a sample picture '''Introduction'''<br> This mod/scam is said to wo..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:Wrench-diag.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|This is a sample picture]]<br />
'''Introduction'''<br><br />
This mod/scam is said to work by introducing highly explosive hydrogen gas into a vehicles intake air stream. The hydrogen is so magicly explosive that people caim it can greatly increase fuel mileage. Most HHO generator claims dwarf the tested mods here. Those who push these HHO generator take real science and warp it into something to take advantage of people. <br><br />
<br />
== Instructions for mod ==<br />
You take a primitive electrolysis generator, fill it up with water and apply 12v power to it, create a tiny amout of hydrogen and oxygen that is roughted into your intake.<br><br />
<br />
Also you can buy a non-primitive generator, Dry Cell, with PWM, and more things (efficient), and get better results and guarantee.<br />
<br />
== User experiences ==<br />
<br><br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1<br />
|+ User data<br />
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link<br />
|-<br />
| Gatech || Fiat 125p 1976 Carburetted || 700USD || 2 days (bought) || 17.5 || 25 || HHO Rules! || [http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-Hi-all-Dry-Cell-on-Carb-1-5L-After-Some-Tests-50-D English][http://hidrogenohho.foroactivo.com.mx/t18-afinando-y-carburando-mi-vehiculo-para-lograr-los-resultados-con-hho Spanish]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Problems / Consequences of mod ==<br />
Hydrogen oxygen mixtures are very explosive, users have had there plastic intakes blown apart. (You NEED a flash back arrestor, a bubbler!, and a Relay for powering on the system ONLY if engine is running!)<br />
Many people who have installed (wrong) these reported losing fuel milage.<br />
<br />
== References ==<br />
=== Forum thread links ===<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/waterboost-special-er-no-hho-18562.html Ecomodder HHO thread]<br />
<br />
=== External links ===<br />
[http://aardvark.co.nz/hho_scam.shtml HHO is a scam here is "why"]<br />
<br />
[http://www.google.co.in/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=5&ved=0CEYQtwIwBA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DKv9vMzXJbho&ei=gwNLTp7_DYKNmQWsreT3Bw&usg=AFQjCNHC3B3ra2-ocXu4_3buuFtFIIz6lw HHO scam busted by dateline NBC]<br />
<br />
[http://www.panaceauniversity.org/Hydrogen%20Enriched%20Hydrocarbon%20Combustion.pdf A serious probe showing how Hydrogen helps Hydrocarboon Combustion Performance and Emissions]<br />
<br />
[http://www.hhoforums.com/showthread.php?t=183 A big thread of testimonials]<br />
<br />
[http://www.fuel-saver.org/Thread-Post-Your-Results Another big thread of testimonials]<br />
<br />
[http://www.panacea-bocaf.org/hydroxygas.htm Open Community talking about Hydroxy Gas (HHO)]<br />
<br />
[http://www.fuelsaver-mpg.com/references-validating-hho-technology HHO is NOT Scam]<br />
<br />
[http://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi.ntrs.nasa.gov/19770016170_1977016170.pdf NASA talking about this]<br />
<br />
[http://www.panaceauniversity.org/Hydroxy%20Boosters.pdf 343 Pages Open Source Document about HHO Boosters]</div>MetroMPGhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Fuel_magnetsFuel magnets2018-07-09T13:36:15Z<p>MetroMPG: Created page with "http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/alternative-fuel/gas-mileage/1802932"</p>
<hr />
<div>http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/alternative-fuel/gas-mileage/1802932</div>MetroMPGhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Electrical_LoadsElectrical Loads2018-07-09T13:34:59Z<p>MetroMPG: </p>
<hr />
<div>[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:AlternatorDelete.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]<br />
'''Introduction'''<br><br />
Alternator deletes have been shown to increase fuel economy as much as 10%. Many people will not be able to remove their alternator completely however reducing the electrical loads used by your car will reduce the power the alternator takes from the engine and therefore reduced electrical loads can achieve a small amount of this 10% improvement.<br />
<br />
== Instructions for mod ==<br />
Several things can be done to reduce the electrical loads in a car<br><br />
-Removing light bulbs in car doors<br><br />
-Remove useless indicator lights in cluster (speedometer unit)<br />
-Disconnect any redundant break lights that aren't legally required<br />
-Changing required cabin light bulbs to LEDs<br><br />
-Change brake lights, indicator lights and parker lights to LEDs<br><br />
-Disconnecting inbuilt car clock<br><br />
-Not turning on radio<br><br />
-Disable automatic raising/lowering of car antenna<br><br />
-Reducing size of grill block so that electric fan doesn't run often<br><br />
<br />
An ammeter can be used to check the current the car is taking from the batter and therefore from the alternator. Using an ammeter will give an idea of how effecting a change will be on the cars efficiency.<br />
<br />
Without reducing the electrical load a ecomodder can control when the alternator takes energy from the drive train (desirable when the brake pedal is used). This can be done by a solenoid controlled by a switch or the brake pedal. The solenoid would connect the alternator to the battery to charge the battery only when the driver wants to take energy from the drive train to charge the battery.<br />
<br />
== User experiences ==<br />
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table<br><br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1<br />
|+ User data<br />
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement !! Instruction Link<br />
|-<br />
|MetroMPG || Pontiac, Firefly, 1998 || $0 || || 70.68 || 78.08 || 7.4 (10.4%) || [http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/test-alternator-vs-no-alternator-10-mpg-gain-98.html Test: Alternator vs. no alternator = 10% MPG gain @ 70 km/h]<br />
|-<br />
|saand || || || || || || 0.55% for 50W theoretical calculation based on equations show in link below [dead link] || <br />
|-<br />
|brucey || 00 Outback || || || 35.55 MPG (off) || 34.6 MPG (on) || 0.95 MPG, or around 2.5% ABA test of headlights on and off A (off) 35.5 B (on) 34.6 A2 35.6 110 watts when on. || [[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/experiment-cost-headlights-15179.html Experiment: The cost of Headlights]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Problems / Consequences of mod ==<br />
<br />
== References ==<br />
=== Forum thread links ===<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/test-alternator-vs-no-alternator-10-mpg-gain-98.html Test: Alternator vs. no alternator = 10% gain @ 70 km/h]<br />
<br />
[[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/experiment-cost-headlights-15179.html Experiment: The cost of Headlights]]<br />
<br />
=== External links ===</div>MetroMPGhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Sprocket_swapSprocket swap2018-07-09T13:34:09Z<p>MetroMPG: Created page with "Back to main mod page Taller Sprocket '''Introduction'''<br> This is the same idea as swapping in a..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:Sprocket.jpg|right|thumb|400px|frame|Taller Sprocket]]<br />
'''Introduction'''<br><br />
This is the same idea as swapping in a taller top gear or final drive in a car or truck transmission, except that on a motorcycle, it's far easier to do and much less expensive.<br />
<br />
Swapping to a smaller rear sprocket is a commonly practiced mod to lower RPM and get better fuel economy in top gear cruising.<br />
<br />
== Instructions for mod ==<br />
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for<br><br />
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars<br><br />
<br />
== User experiences ==<br />
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table<br><br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1<br />
|+ User data<br />
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link<br />
|-<br />
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Problems / Consequences of mod ==<br />
''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,<br />
<br />
== References ==<br />
=== Forum thread links ===<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/making-use-wiki-modification-hypermiling-info-14248.html Wiki thread]<br />
<br />
=== External links ===<br />
[http://ecomodder.com This is the ecomodder link]</div>MetroMPGhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Aero_fairingsAero fairings2018-07-09T13:33:33Z<p>MetroMPG: Created page with "Back to main mod page Motorcycle Aero Fairings '''Introduction''..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Motorcycle_Mods|Back to main mod page]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:Honda-v2-rear.jpg|right|thumb|400px|frame|Motorcycle Aero Fairings]]<br />
'''Introduction'''<br><br />
While motorcycles, scooters and bicycles have small projected areas relative to cars & trucks, their coefficients of drag are generally much higher.<br />
<br />
For a motorcycle, a Cd of .50 is considered low, and .90 medium, and 1.00 high.<br />
<br />
So the addition of aerodynamic fairings that can part the air flow more gently at the front and shepherd it back together at the rear will be apparent at the fuel pump.<br />
<br />
*'''Go to : [http://ecomodder.com/blog/diy-aero-fairings-honda-125cc-motorcycle-214-mpg/ 214 mpg with DIY aerodynamic fairings on a Honda 125cc motorbike]'''<br />
<br />
== Instructions for mod ==<br />
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for<br><br />
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars<br><br />
<br />
== User experiences ==<br />
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table<br><br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1<br />
|+ User data<br />
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link<br />
|-<br />
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Problems / Consequences of mod ==<br />
''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,<br />
<br />
== References ==<br />
=== Forum thread links ===<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/ninja-250-ev-conversion-solar-recharged-vetter-style-5386.html Streamlined Kawasaki Ninja 250 EV]<br />
<br />
=== External links ===<br />
[http://craigvetter.com/pages/470MPG/470MPG%20Main.html 470 MPG-Craig Vetter Fuel Economy contests, better mileage]</div>MetroMPGhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Weight_reductionWeight reduction2018-07-09T13:32:52Z<p>MetroMPG: Created page with "Back to main mod page Frame| '''Introduction'''<br> As auto manufacturers..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Other_Mods|Back to main mod page]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:WeightReduction.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]<br />
'''Introduction'''<br><br />
As auto manufacturers focus on efficiency, one of the first things they will do to save fuel is reduce vehicle mass. EG. Nissan, Toyota, Ford and Mazda have publicly announced plans to shed weight from their lineups.<br />
<br />
The EPA estimates that an extra 100 lbs can mean a 1-2% increase in fuel consumption, with smaller vehicles affected more than larger ones.<br />
<br />
Weight reduction can be mild or wild, free or expensive, depending on how far you take it: from simply ensuring you don't carry around unneeded junk in the trunk; to replacing the spare tire with an aerosol can of tire sealant and a roadside assistance plan; to removing unused seats and interior panels; to spending money on lightweight rims/panels; to replacing glass with lexan; to driving only with the fuel tank partially full.<br />
<br />
Don't forget that the driver's weight is a factor too! If you're looking for another reason to drop those extra pounds, think of your fuel economy.<br />
<br />
Auto makers achieve larger benefits when reducing weight as they are able to reduce the engine size and give the same acceleration due to the lower car weight.<br />
<br />
Removing what is not needed is the most cost effective way to remove weight. Upgrading to lighter parts can start out cheap but get expensive to where it costs between $10-$30 per pound. The problem is those dollars spent versus fuel saved cant really ever offer any kind of ROI.<br />
<br />
== Instructions for mod ==<br />
Remove any of the following<br />
<br />
- Anything being carried in the car that isn't required<br />
<br />
- Carpeting / asthetic parts in the boot<br />
<br />
- Carpeting / asthetic parts in the cabin<br />
<br />
- Air conditioning parts, compressor, radiator<br />
<br />
- Remove side mirrors<br />
<br />
- Remove power steering pump<br />
<br />
- Remove spare tyre, replace with wheel repair device<br />
<br />
- Smaller lighter battery (Note: larger battery may be required for some hypermiling techniques or other mods)<br />
<br />
- Remove of unused seats<br />
<br />
- Remove radio speakers (only need 1 not 4 to hear the radio)<br />
<br />
- Change glass to light weight lexan, windshields or car head lights<br />
<br />
Upgrades:<br />
<br />
- Light weight wheels<br />
<br />
- Swap your cast iron engine or cylinder heads for the aluminum version if possible<br />
<br />
- Install light weight aluminum or high dollar carbon fiber drive shafts (RWD and 4x4s)<br />
<br />
- Convert from a lead acid starting battery to a lithium (LiFePO4) unit that weighs 1 to 2 kg.<br />
<br />
== User experiences ==<br />
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table<br><br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1<br />
|+ User data<br />
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link<br />
|-<br />
|Saand || || || || || || Theoretical calculations<br> For 50kg weight reduction<br> each acceleration from 0 to 60km/h uses '''1.27 ml or 0.00034 gal''' less fuel <br> <br> Using this info, if you typically do this acceleration change (0 to 60kph) 30 times for every 100km distance that will use 38ml every 100km <br> <br> If you are achieving 6 liters per 100km that gives a '''0.636%''' efficiency advantage|| For calculations see [[Theoretical_Weight_Energy|Theoretical influence of weight]]<br />
|-<br />
|Oil Pan 4 || Large heavy vehicles around 6000lb || What ever the cost per 100lb || || This should be your MPGs gain for highway driving || 0.1MPG per 100lb ||http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/online-tool-shows-aerodynamic-drag-rolling-resistance-power-6341.html || <br />
|}<br />
<br />
== Problems / Consequences of mod ==<br />
<br />
<br />
== References ==<br />
=== Forum thread links ===<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/nissan-toyotas-new-years-resolutions-lose-weight-475.html Nissan and Toyota's New Year's resolutions: LOSE WEIGHT]<br />
<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/how-i-lightened-up-my-geo-metro-70-a-4344.html How I lightened up my Geo Metro by 70 lbs]<br />
<br />
=== External links ===<br />
[http://www.importtuner.com/features/0407it_weight_reduction_tips/index.html Comprehensive weight reduction list]<br />
<br />
[http://aluminumintransportation.org/downloads/AluminumNow/Ricardo%20Study_with%20cover.pdf Weight reduction effects on cars and trucks on the highway and in the city]<br />
<br />
=== External links for buying light weight materials ===<br />
<br />
[http://dragonplate.com/ Premade Carbon fiber sheet, tubes, and other structures]</div>MetroMPGhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Hybrid_conversionHybrid conversion2018-07-09T13:32:09Z<p>MetroMPG: Created page with "Back to main mod page Frame| '''Introduction'''<br> Adding electric assist or..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Other_Mods|Back to main mod page]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:HybridMetro.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]<br />
'''Introduction'''<br><br />
Adding electric assist or EV mode to an internal combustion vehicle is like the weather: it's one of those topics everyone likes to talk about, but nobody does anything about!<br />
<br />
Well, almost nobody.<br />
<br />
EcoModder member MD2000 designed a pneumatically actuated, electrically driven 5th wheel for his first generation Honda Insight.<br />
<br />
Some companies sell kits to retrofit an electric motor inline with the drive shaft of a larger rear wheel drive vehicle.<br />
<br />
And at least one person has built an electrically powered "pusher trailer".<br />
<br />
== Instructions for mod ==<br />
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for<br><br />
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars<br><br />
<br />
== User experiences ==<br />
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table<br><br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1<br />
|+ User data<br />
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link<br />
|-<br />
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Problems / Consequences of mod ==<br />
''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,<br />
<br />
== References ==<br />
=== Forum thread links ===<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/electric-fifth-wheel-diy-through-road-parallel-hybrid-1191.html Electric fifth wheel (DIY through the road parallel hybrid)]<br />
<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/home-made-hybrid-using-access-5th-gear-fwd-1605.html Home-made hybrid (using access to 5th gear on FWD transaxle)]<br />
<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/powered-trailer-idea-ev-pusher-trailer-make-conventional-2975.html Powered trailer idea]<br />
<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/mtsu-students-retrofit-hub-motors-converting-accord-into-22746.html Retrofit hub motors convert accord into hybrid]<br />
<br />
=== External links ===</div>MetroMPGhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/General_maintenanceGeneral maintenance2018-07-09T13:31:42Z<p>MetroMPG: Created page with "Back to main mod page Frame| '''Introduction'''<br> OK, so technically this i..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Other_Mods|Back to main mod page]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:Maintenance.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]<br />
'''Introduction'''<br><br />
OK, so technically this isn't a mod.<br />
<br />
But it must be said that the starting point for an efficient vehicle is one that's maintained in good condition. There's little point in building on a weak foundation.<br />
<br />
Particularly if you're driving an older vehicle, there are a number of maintenance items that should be checked to ensure you're starting from the best possible position.<br />
<br />
== Instructions for mod ==<br />
Check for any of the following<br />
<br />
- missing or defective thermostat, causing low operating temperature<br />
<br />
- clogged intake manifold exhaust crossover passage (for heating intake manifold)<br />
<br />
- engine misfire caused by bad spark plug, ignition wire, coil, dist. cap or rotor<br />
<br />
- late ignition timing<br />
<br />
- bad vacuum advance unit (common in old cars)<br />
<br />
- stuck centrifugal advance mechanism in distributor (needs oil occasionally)<br />
<br />
- bad tension adjustment of centrifugal advance springs<br />
<br />
- defective oxygen sensor (causes rich mixture)<br />
<br />
- defective coolant temp. sensor for engine computer (causes rich mixture)<br />
<br />
- worn timing belt (may cause rich fuel mixture in fuel injected cars with a MAP sensor)<br />
<br />
- incorrect timing belt installation (timing marks should line up)<br />
<br />
- sticking or poorly adjusted carburetor choke (causes rich mixture)<br />
<br />
- dirty air filter on an engine with a carburetor (causes rich mixture at high power)<br />
<br />
- clogged or defective PCV valve<br />
<br />
- incorrect valve clearance (especially if too tight)<br />
<br />
- high performance camshaft installed (not efficient at low power)<br />
<br />
- worn valve guides (makes fuel mixture too lean at low power)<br />
<br />
- vacuum leak from bad vacuum hoses or intake system gaskets (causes lean mixture)<br />
<br />
- dirty fuel injectors<br />
<br />
- bad fuel pressure regulator<br />
<br />
- bad MAP sensor for fuel injection<br />
<br />
- leaking intake duct between air flow sensor and throttle body<br />
<br />
- too much alcohol in gasoline with old car (requires carb. modification for correct mixture)<br />
<br />
- rusted or missing exhaust heat stove or pipe for heated air intake<br />
<br />
- loss of compression pressure due to worn rings or leaking valves<br />
<br />
- sticking EGR valve (causes rough idling and rich mixture on some engines)<br />
<br />
- exhaust backpressure caused by clogged catalytic converter, muffler or crushed pipe<br />
<br />
- stuck exhaust manifold valve for some V type engines. Intended for fast warm up.<br />
<br />
More engine problems:<br />
<br />
- high idle speed<br />
<br />
- high fast idle speed when cold<br />
<br />
- incorrect idle mixture adjustment (carburetor or fuel injection)<br />
<br />
- leaking fuel line or carburetor (dangerous too)<br />
<br />
- clogged jets (calibrated holes) inside carburetor<br />
<br />
- defective power valve in carburetor<br />
<br />
- worn camshaft lobes<br />
<br />
- high alternator voltage (should be about 14 volts when warm)<br />
<br />
- high oil level (interferes with crankshaft movement)<br />
<br />
- high oil pressure (relief valve stuck or has wrong spring)<br />
<br />
- stuck cooling fan clutch (runs fan when not needed)<br />
<br />
<br />
Problems that increase rolling resistance:<br />
<br />
- sticking disk brake calipers<br />
<br />
- tight drum brake adjustment<br />
<br />
- warped brake rotor or drum<br />
<br />
- sticking parking brake cable<br />
<br />
- incorrect wheel alignment, front or rear (check tire wear)<br />
<br />
- worn suspension joints (ball joints, steering joints)<br />
<br />
- worn control arm bushings (changes wheel alignment)<br />
<br />
- worn or incorrectly adjusted wheel bearings<br />
<br />
- leaking grease seals for wheel bearings<br />
<br />
- use of snow tires when not needed<br />
<br />
- leaking tires, causing loss of pressure<br />
<br />
- warped tires<br />
<br />
- bent rims, causing car to shake<br />
<br />
- poor wheel balance, causing shaking at high speeds<br />
<br />
- worn shocks or springs (forces driver to brake more)<br />
<br />
<br />
Automatic transmission problems:<br />
<br />
- wrong fluid level<br />
<br />
- incorrect throttle valve cable adjustment<br />
<br />
- bad vacuum modulator or vacuum hose to modulator<br />
<br />
- sticking valves in valve body, causing delayed shifts; changing transmission fluid may help<br />
<br />
- failure of torque converter to lock up (if equipped with lock-up torque converter); it should engage at 30-55 MPH, reducing engine speed about 10%<br />
<br />
- stuck stator clutch in torque converter<br />
<br />
<br />
Manual transmission problems:<br />
<br />
- wrong fluid level<br />
<br />
- excessive oil viscosity<br />
<br />
- bad bearings<br />
<br />
- failure to engage one or more gears<br />
<br />
<br />
Differential problems:<br />
<br />
- wrong fluid level<br />
<br />
- excessive oil viscosity<br />
<br />
- bad bearings<br />
<br />
- high ratio ring and pinion gear set installed for racing<br />
<br />
== User experiences ==<br />
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table<br><br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1<br />
|+ User data<br />
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link<br />
|-<br />
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Problems / Consequences of mod ==<br />
''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,<br />
<br />
== References ==<br />
=== Forum thread links ===<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/list-common-mechanical-problems-hurt-fuel-economy-5322.html List of common mechanical problems that hurt fuel economy]<br />
<br />
=== External links ===</div>MetroMPGhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Electric_conversionElectric conversion2018-07-09T13:31:17Z<p>MetroMPG: Created page with "Back to main mod page Frame| '''Introduction'''<br> This is the ultimate e..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Other_Mods|Back to main mod page]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:ElecConversion.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]<br />
'''Introduction'''<br><br />
This is the ultimate engine mod: yank the ICE out and do a 100% battery electric conversion.<br />
<br />
There's no arguing the superior efficiency of electric drive over internal combustion.<br />
<br />
== Instructions for mod ==<br />
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for<br><br />
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars<br><br />
<br />
== User experiences ==<br />
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table<br><br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1<br />
|+ User data<br />
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link<br />
|-<br />
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Problems / Consequences of mod ==<br />
- Discharged batteries<br />
<br />
- Danger if motor controllers blow up or the battery bank is shorted together<br />
<br />
== References ==<br />
=== Forum thread links ===<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/ben-nelsons-electro-metro-build-thread-848.html Ben Nelson's electro Metro build thread]<br />
<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/electric-motorcycle-conversion-599.html Electric motorcycle conversion]<br />
<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/paul-sabrinas-cheap-ev-conversion-2373.html Paul and Sabrina's cheap EV conversion]<br />
<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/electric-car-conversion-project-forkenswift-33.html Electric car conversion: Project ForkenSwift]<br />
<br />
=== External links ===</div>MetroMPGhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Fuel_economical_Cruise_controlFuel economical Cruise control2018-07-09T13:30:34Z<p>MetroMPG: Created page with "Back to main mod page Frame| '''Introduction'''<br> Most ecodrivers kn..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Other_Mods|Back to main mod page]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:SmartCruiseControl.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]<br />
'''Introduction'''<br><br />
Most ecodrivers know that using cruise control will burn more gas in most situations compared to a smart right foot. The problem is that cruise reacts to inclines & descents in exactly the WRONG way for best efficiency. If only there were a clever way to control the throttle via engine load rather than speed... Well, EcoModder member jomelmaldonado has done just that. <br />
<br />
== Instructions for mod ==<br />
''Information required:'' How do people perform this modification, pictures, problems, what to look out for<br><br />
''Information required:'' A listing for different ways to do this if its different on different types of cars<br><br />
<br />
== User experiences ==<br />
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table<br><br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1<br />
|+ User data<br />
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link<br />
|-<br />
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Problems / Consequences of mod ==<br />
''Information required:'' What are the consequences of the mod, Eg: drivability issue, stalling, engine wear,<br />
<br />
== References ==<br />
=== Forum thread links ===<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/cruise-control-mpg-sensitive-logic-2031.html Cruise control with MPG sensitive logic]<br />
<br />
=== External links ===</div>MetroMPGhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Aftermarket_cruise_controlAftermarket cruise control2018-07-09T13:29:12Z<p>MetroMPG: Created page with "Back to main mod page Frame| '''Introduction'''<br> IF you're the type of d..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Car_MPG_Efficiency_Modifications_Main#Other_Mods|Back to main mod page]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:CruiseControl.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|]]<br />
'''Introduction'''<br><br />
IF you're the type of driver who has trouble with a lead foot on the open road, an electronic throttle nanny will save you fuel.<br />
<br />
(That said, keep in mind that a dedicated ecodriver can get even better fuel economy than cruise control while maintaining the same average speed.)<br />
<br />
Installing a cruise unit can also permit you to test vehicle mods more rigorously by removing the experimenter's right foot from the equation.<br />
<br />
== Instructions for mod ==<br />
See installation instructions for cruise control system.<br />
<br />
== User experiences ==<br />
Please enter your user name and any relevant data in the table<br><br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1<br />
|+ User data<br />
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Instruction Link<br />
|-<br />
|Example Data Saand || Example Data Mazda, 626, 1991 || Example Data $5 USD || Example Data 1 Hour || Example Data 27.2 || Example Data 29.8 || || [[Instruction_ModType_reference|User mod detail or measurement detailed data]]<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br />
== Problems / Consequences of mod ==<br />
- If you normally drive without a lead foot standard cruise control may give you worse efficiency.<br />
<br />
== References ==<br />
=== Forum thread links ===<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/audiovox-ccs-100-cruise-control-replacement-cant-do-4078.html Audiovox CCS-100 aftermarket cruise control replacement (can't do FE tests)]<br />
<br />
=== External links ===</div>MetroMPGhttps://ecomodder.com/wiki/Taller_TiresTaller Tires2018-07-09T13:28:42Z<p>MetroMPG: Created page with "Back to main mod page Taller tire swap '''Introduction'''<br> This modification changes your f..."</p>
<hr />
<div>[[Car_Modifications_Main|Back to main mod page]]<br />
<br />
[[Image:ImagesCA389WAQ.jpg|right|thumb|400px|Frame|Taller tire swap]]<br />
'''Introduction'''<br><br />
This modification changes your final gearing through taller tires.<br><br />
Also greater tire circumfrence results in less rolling resistance.<br />
<br />
== Instructions for mod ==<br />
The best time to perform this mod is when you need new tires and your vehicle is at the tire shop.<br><br />
I recommend ordering your tires from some where like tirerack.com, because local tire shops will almost always try to sell you what they have on hand or try talking you out of doing your ecomod.<br><br />
There are a few different ways to do this mod.<br><br />
You can play it safe and go with the next size taller aspect ratio which may even be recommended by the vehicle manufacture.<br />
Or you can use this as a time to upgrade to a larger rim size and tire size if you are currently stuck on a "dead tire size" such as 245/45R16 or a "dead rim size", which is pretty much anything 13 inch.<br><br />
<br><br />
Your best bet is to do this right is to look up your OE recommended tire size on your vehicle data sticker or go on tirerack.com and look it up.<br />
Take your factory tire size and try to go about an inch taller.<br />
If you have a truck, you can go 2 inches taller than the factory size most of the time.<br />
You may have to go one size wider to be able to go taller, don't let this discourage you.<br><br />
With 15 inch rimed tires going 1 aspect ratio size taller will give you a tire less than 1 inch taller.<br />
Most 16 inch rims will give about a 1 inch taller tire with the next size higher aspect ratio. <br><br />
What you are trying to do is get less tire rotations per mile.<br><br />
For example a Yokohama AVID ENVigor in 195/60R15 Vs. 195/55R15 will be 3/4'' inch taller and will about take about 26 less rotations to go each mile. That could drop your typical cruse RPM from 2225RPM at 65mph to 2161RPM at 65mph.<br />
<br />
== User experiences ==<br />
Enter your tire change results<br><br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1<br />
|+ User data<br />
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Before and After Tire Sizes<br />
|-<br />
|Oil pan 4 || 1984 Chevy Surban C10 || $748 for 5 tires || 1 Hour || 25.2 MPG || No change || Possible slight improvement || Old size: P235/75R15 <br> New size: 31x10.5R15<br />
|} <br />
Additional notes: When going from the Pmetric size small truck tire to a real load range C floatation sized truck tire each tire was about 20 pounds heavier and about 2 inches taller. I kept the same factory steel rims. The new tires are the yokohama AT-S<br><br />
<br><br />
Enter your tire change results<br><br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1<br />
|+ User data<br />
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Before and After Tire Sizes<br />
|-<br />
| Oil Pan 4 || 1985 camaro Z28 || $550 for 5 tires || 1 Hour || 25mpg || Untested || Untested || Old size: 215/55R16 <br> New size: 225/60R16<br />
|}<br />
Additional notes:<br />
My factory size is 245/50R16 a dieing size, not much selection. The camaro had 215/55R16 tires for the last several years. I installed a very popular OE size, 225/60R16 (yokohama S4 ultrahigh performance all season), that size offers a wide selection and great prices. <br><br />
The 215/55R16 tires were about the same as the OEM size, the 225/60R16 tires are about 1 inche taller. No rubbing, not problems, just lots of road grip. <br><br />
<br><br />
Enter your tire change results<br><br />
{| cellspacing="0" Border=1<br />
|+ User data<br />
! User Name !! Car Make, Model, Year !! Cost of Mod !! Time to Perform Mod !! MPG Before Mod !! MPG After Mod !! MPG improvement guess !! Before and After Tire Sizes<br />
|-<br />
| Who || what || how much || how long || a number || more numbers || your best guess || Old size: ???/??R?? <br> New size: ???/??R??<br />
|}<br />
Additional notes:<br />
<br />
== Problems / Consequences of mod ==<br />
Your vehicle will ride higher. If you have a car and stayed in the guide lines above your ride hight will have increased about a half inch or less. A half inch or less change in ride hight will have minimal effect on vehicle handling. <br><br />
Any time you go to a different tire size it will change the read out on your speedometer and odometer. Most newer vehicles just need to have parameters changed on the computer. Older vehicles will require the driver to remember the correction factor or install a different speedometer drive gear on the transmission tail shaft. <br><br />
One good consequences of the mod will be you always see an increase in load rating with the increase in tire size. <br><br />
For example a yokohama AVID ENVigor 195/60R15 will have a 100lb higher load rating when compared to the shorter AVID ENVigor in 195/55R15. <br><br />
That is a higher saftey margin if nothing else. On a truck vehicle weight, load and tire capacity become much more important.<br />
Going to a larger more popular tire size could give you the largest saftey factor of all: <br><br />
Being able to avoid tires made in china. <br><br />
In some countries it is against the law to alter vehicle tire size.<br />
<br />
== References ==<br />
=== Forum thread links ===<br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/my-tyres-were-oversized-my-mpg-went-down-17770.html Went from 15 to 18 inch rims, MPGs down] Surprize, surprize... <br><br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/tall-tire-test-17440.html Taller tire test] <br><br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/choosing-tire-18933.html choosing a tire on 13 inch rims] <br><br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/what-diameter-tires-you-using-moment-18783.html What diameter tires are you using?] <br><br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/top-5-most-fuel-efficient-tires-lowest-rolling-2813.html LLR tires] <br><br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/lots-tyre-data-crr-noise-db-wet-grip-18989.html Lots of tire data, noise db, wet grip] <br><br />
[http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/taller-tire-test-5-7-mpg-increase-observed-23055.html Taller tire test 5.7mpg increase observed]<br><br />
<br />
=== External links ===<br />
[http://www.csgnetwork.com/multirpmcalc.html Tire size, gear ratio, RPM and speed calculator] <br><br />
[http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/index.jsp Tirerack survey results] <br><br />
[http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/testSearch.jsp Tirerack tire tests] <br><br />
[http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Yokohama&tireModel=AVID+ENVigor+%28H%26V%29 Tirerack.com tire specs] <br><br />
[http://www.barrystiretech.com/rrandfe.html barrystiretech] <br><br />
[http://www.barrystiretech.com/rrandfe2.html barrystiretech] <br></div>MetroMPG