Direct-to-diff conversion possibility?

[Isaac Zackary]

Here's a reduction box that goes for $4495 each. Torque Trends EV Reduction Box.

[freebeard]

there was a post about toyota suv hybrid diff/motor combo. for the rear wheels to make it 4wd i think it was about 100 pounds motor/diff with good power, if you just had one front and one rear. you would just have to make custom half shafts, and find a way to control
them

More than just a post, there's a whole thread: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...mgr-29878.html

To further Thalass's point, the part in question #G105048010 (used) was selling for $300-600 a year ago. Now they're $1200-1500.

[Thalass]

Oh wow. Though the AC-50 from evwest is US$3850, with the bundled controller. (which on its own is US$1980, so I guess US$1870 for the motor alone - if that's possible) I suppose the MGR's current asking price isn't /too/ horrible considering it's a decent unit and has the diff built in. And I know Paul's AC motor controller would work with it as e*clipse is doing the hard work for me!

2012 Toyota. #G105048010: MOTOR ASSEMBLY, REAR TRACTION WITH TRANSAXLE. MOTOR ASSY, <-- CAD$1489.40! And it ships from my province! That's rather interesting.

[edit]Of course the MGR is a 650v motor, apparently. That's quite a bit. :/

[edit2] Just found a single MGR on ebay for about ~CAD$1000 including shipping. Hrm.

[thingstodo]

Originally Posted by Isaac Zackary

Here's a reduction box that goes for $4495 each. Torque Trends EV Reduction Box.

I met Mitch last week. I think the transmission is AWESOME. The F150 was not quite rolling at the time - it was waiting on software updates.

He used his small transmission in the F150 conversion. It bolts onto the output of the electric motor (I think it was a Brusa motor?) and the output is direct to the stock F150 drive shaft.

It sounds like a strong transmission. He was telling me that the destructive test made it up to 4000 foot-lbs before it failed.

[Thalass]

Sounds pretty good. But expensive.

This is going to be a stupid question, but all of my research over the years has been for DC conversions, with the assumption that a 144v motor needs a controller fed with 144v, etc. The MGR needs 650v, so that means I'd need a 650v nominal battery pack, yes? I don't think the controller will do any high power buck conversion or anything. That is a downside to the MGR, though as a bonus I think I could go 100km on a charge with the smallest large-format LiFePO4 pack! But it would be US$11,000. Ups and downs everywhere.

[thingstodo]

Originally Posted by Thalass

The MGR needs 650v, so that means I'd need a 650v nominal battery pack, yes?

Yes. As I understand it, you need 650V if you want full power and full speed.

I don't think the controller will do any high power buck conversion or anything.

There has been some discussion about adding a boost circuit to Paul's controller, but the components are heavy when you get to high current and high voltage. I don't know how much weight difference there is between a 325V pack with the boost circuit and a 650V pack, for example.

Paul has been working on a fixed boost to simplify things a bit.

That is a downside to the MGR, though as a bonus I think I could go 100km on a charge with the smallest large-format LiFePO4 pack! But it would be US$11,000. Ups and downs everywhere.

40 a-h CALBs are about $60 each at 3.3V. 197 cells * $60 = 11,820 .. that agrees with what I've seen.

The battery packs from wrecked Leafs, Teslas, Volts .. are 1/2 to 1/3 the price of LiFePO4. I like the LiFePO4 - they stack together, no engineering required for cooling and structure ... but the cost is high.

[Thalass]

Sadly I let myself get carried away with this, then reality hit again. The windows in our house need replacing - it was a mild winter but we felt it! So I won't be able to pick up the car I wanted. But I'm going to keep working on this, so that when I can pick up a car and start tearing it apart I'll be ready!

[freebeard]

At least you'll have something to post in Saving@Home.

[Thalass]

Yeah!

As it turns out: I put a deposit down on a Tesla Model 3. So I've got a couple of years to save money/get a raise from the boss. In a way it feels like giving up, but in another way I'll get a better car out of it.

[freebeard]

I've done much the same thing. $100 down on a $12K electric tadpole that will ship by years end. (The company has announced a $50million IPO). Because it fits my transportation needs.

The electrified Baja Bug was on a back burner anyway; and it's still Plan B. There's a lot to learn in the meantime, and prices and parts will only get better.