Off Road Hybrid Buggy

[CFECO]

nvm?

[freebeard]

Urban Dictionary: nvm

[CFECO]

OK, I have finally been able to get back to my Off Road Electric-Hybrid Buggy project. Most of my thoughts and comments about it in the past were at Number 1's, "I want a Hybrid Side BY Side" page, which I had mistakenly taken over...sorry Number1!
Anyway, I have the golf cart stripped down and need to sell or junk the carcass. It's an older Club Car with a good aluminum frame and a decent body, with front and rear suspension, tires, and seats. I take $100 for it if anyone is interested OBO, and will be heading to the Jackson MISS area around the end of May, from Tucson, so I could bring it. As soon as the cart is gone I will start bolting the bike frames together.
Just to recap, I am taking two Yamaha YZ 400 chassis and will weld or bolt them together to make a two seat buggy, 4' wide at the widest part ( the front forks). I am then going to narrow the golf cart rear axle and install it where the bike front sprockets were, driving the rear wheels with the stock chains. The front forks will be connected with a tie-rod and use the golf cart rack and pinion box for steering. I will power it with "a" 48 volt Chevy Volt battery section, which I have. After the bugs are worked out with the drivetrain and the buggy is driving, I will get a another few section of the Volt Batteries to extend the range, and I'll get the motor hopped up for more speed. The Goal is 45-50 MPH Max, and 50 mile range. Anyway, enough for now, like Arnold says...I'll Be Back! Thoughts and comments are always welcome...BYE!

[CFECO]

Here are the latest photos of the project and he golf cart frame I'm getting rid of.

[Bill the Engineer]

Originally Posted by CFECO

Here is where I am at on my Off road electric buggy so far. It will lean into the turns by way of the chassis hingeing in the middle when the front wheels are turned. I'm hoping for as good as or better handling than the current UTV's, like the Polaris Razor or Yamaha Rhino. The frame will be made from aluminum square tubing. I welcome all thoughts on this. Thanks!

As an engineer, I can see a couple of places where the tubular frame design needs some adjusting. You need to make sure that you have enough reinforcing tubes in the load bearing areas so that any two tubes have a third tube connecting the ends to make a triangle. Triangles are the most rigid shape possible with thin wall tubing. Pay special attention to under the seats through the rear suspension supports. The rear presently looks cantilevered, which will be a weak spot in the design.

Bill the Engineer

[CFECO]

Yes Bill, thanks. This was a very early "Sketch" that I did and by no means refined. It has a pivoting frame which leaned into the turns which has since been down away with, in favor of having a Cambering Rear Suspension, if I want it that complicated.

[freebeard]

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&title=Zero-Cost-Modelling-of-SpaceFrames&A=112924

• Bungee cords?
• Coil-over shocks?
• Elastomeric snubbers?

[CFECO]

Front, the factory Yamaha MX forks, in the rear I'll probable start with the factory Bike coil overs, though they are heay and designed for way more action than I am planning. I've looked at Midget race car torsion bars, and would prefer air bags for weight reduction? The last two methods would require separate shock absorbers.
Thanks for the ideas!

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Repurposing both motorcycle frames seem kinda unsuitable if you want a conventional seating position.

[freebeard]

Bungee cords are good enough for light planes on grass fields. It'll weigh less than a Piper Cub, right?