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Old 09-27-2014, 05:48 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksa8907 View Post
Amsoil is the best quality oil hands down
I've done some research and I agree with that. Definitely avoid Royal Purple, I remember it doing very poorly on a couple particular tests. Here's a white paper that might be way TMI, but interesting:
AMSOIL Performance Testing Archives

Amsoil was the only one that did very well on every test.

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Old 09-27-2014, 06:18 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Honda green oil is apparently 0W16 I'd anyone is interested in trying it out.
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Old 09-27-2014, 06:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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http://amzn.com/B0077K8O2M



This is the stuff I get the cheapest I can find. 5 quarts. My car only needs 3.9Qt. I seriously buy this with my old cell phone and tablet.

1. Run an app called Perk.tv
2. wait and collect points
3. once you have gained 15000 points cash out for amazon money
4. Wait for a email
5. buy oil and filter for $17
6. only use 3.9QT
7. every 4th oil change get one free from left over oil.
8. ????
9. Profit
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Old 09-27-2014, 06:33 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samwichse View Post
Honda green oil is apparently 0W16 I'd anyone is interested in trying it out.
Like me.
Got it at the end of spring this year, honestly can't sense the difference to ordinary 0W20 (or was it 5W30 after all, like the garage receipt indicated?).

I'll throw in a nice statistic:

so we all can hone our Japanese reading skills.
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Old 09-27-2014, 08:29 PM   #15 (permalink)
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New oil is best oil.



Thinner than manufacturer spec oils should really be accompanied by an oil pressure gauge.
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Old 09-27-2014, 09:05 PM   #16 (permalink)
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From a cost standpoint, AMSOIL isn't that great.

And from a technical standpoint it isn't either. They're good, don't get me wrong, but you can get some properly awesome oil for a way better price point. AMSOIL sells you a lot of sizzle without a lot of the steak.

You want a cheap and enormously good quality 0W-20? Get Toyota Genuine Motor Oil, even from the dealer its usually not that badly priced. TGMO has to be made from particularly good base stock oil ("full synthetics") to get the viscosity index it has.

Which basically means it thinner when cold then almost every other 0W-20 out there.




And if you're really brave, Redline sells a 0W-10 oil, but yeah, get a pressure gauge, thats a whole 'nother universe of things.
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Old 09-28-2014, 02:33 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Thank you for all of your feedback everyone. I truly appreciate it!

I'm going to do further research but I've really considering Mobil-1 and Toyota Genuine Oil.
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Old 09-28-2014, 02:36 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksa8907 View Post
As far as protection goes, oil is oil. As long as you keep it clean and change when it does get dirty you'll be just fine.

For f/e, synthetic has superior viscosity characteristics therefor less resistance from pumping it around the engine.
Thanks for your reply! I keep it changed every 3,000-5,000 miles.
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Old 09-28-2014, 02:39 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redneck View Post
.

Not all Mobile One oils are the same.

They are allowed to call it synthetic if the base has a certain percentage

Mobil 1 is not a true synthetic.

Mobil 1 Extended Performance is 100% synthetic.

I'm not sure about "Advanced Fuel Economy".


You can learn all you ever wanted to know about oil and lubricants here.

Bob Is The Oil Guy | The Internet's Number One Motor Oil Site


>

Thank you for the information about Mobil-1 and for the website. I really found it helpful!
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Old 09-28-2014, 02:49 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiceCake View Post
In terms of this site, Mobil 1 AFE actually isn't a bad oil, but the science behind it all gets fairly complicated. The best oil for fuel economy is the thinnest oil you can run at operating temperature, with the thinnest profile at cold temperatures.

These are your 0W-20, 0W-30 oils for the most part since the first number just dictates how easily pumped the oil is when cold, the lower the better. Does your call call for 5W-30? Try 0W-30 if you can find it. 5W-20? Try 0W-20. If it says either 5W-30 or 5W-20, try 0W-20, since its thinner at operating temp.

And realistically, you can use 0W-20 or 5W-20 in a car made for 5W-30. My car only specifies 5W-30 but later models just "suddenly" started suggesting 5W-20. The difference in oil thickness isn't a lot between 20 and 30 weight - most worn out 30 weights are the same as a 20 anyhow. So if you're particularly anal about getting economy and want the (maybe) %0.5-%1 improvement and don't mind being a little on the darkside if your manual doesn't say you can, run a 20.

But beyond that the best oil is complicated and based on cost and a variety of factors. I run Mobil 1 Delvac Elite 222 - a diesel motor oil in my car. Why? Well its a 0W-30 first of all and designed for easy starting of big diesel trucks in cold Canada winters, and in a car its fantastic. Second its loaded with an older zinc-based antiwear additive that they phased out on gasoline cars, so I get free extra wear protection. It also helps make me feel good that its a "true" synthetic but don't let that scare you. A lot of people overstate the difference between "group III" and "group IV" (or PAO synthetics), the latter being the only ones truly "man made". It also helps that being a diesel oil, they expect you to buy something like 15 liters of it and its marketed way, way differently -- it was cheaper at a distributor for Mobil then I can get Mobil 1 AFE, even on sale!

But it didn't stop me from buying a jug of Quaker State 0W-20 to try next winter. Why? Well it was really cheap and I wanted a 0W-20 to run in the car, something you can't get in diesel oils.

About the only major argument you can make is some oils are "a little better" or tailored a little more to specific situations. For the layperson? Oil is oil. Just buy the right oil. The number of people running 10W-30 or 15W-40 for absolutely no reason is insanely high. Or even worse, having people say you need oil "stabilizer", thicker oil for driving to Church on a Sunday, or even people saying you need a 10W-30 for winter -- the confusing rederick you hear in the oil aisle is frustrating.

Check your manual, buy the thinnest weight you can run, and buy a decent oil that meets the SAE requirements your manual calls for, and be happy.

If you have the choice of running a synthetic, you can go to 0W-20 or 0W-30 and *maybe* get a free half an MPG, but it really won't be measurable. The car will definitely be happier starting when cold and might start easier if it gets properly cold (like -30 cold) where you live.

The only benefit for running a synthetic after that is extending your oil change interval, which may or may not void your warranty. If you're changing a synthetic out every 3000 miles you're wasting money, period, use a regular oil. In my case the car calls for a 3000 mile oil change, but I run it out to 7500 miles on the Delvac Elite 222 I run.




And for the record, I just love saying I only run "Delvac Elite 222". It sounds awesome and usually generates nothing but "car guys" telling me it doesn't exist or its going to ruin my car and how I should run Royal Purple or some overpriced garbage.


Thank you so much! This is the exact type of response I was looking for on this subject.

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