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After all, how much weight reduction can you do, on a "newer" car; its already been done, by the manufacturer.Pull out the passenger seats and spare tire, maybe.
Another advantage, if your 'adjusting the nut behind the steering wheel' techniques include shutting off the engine/coasting, no locking steering to worry about.Its a good idea to use a small air tank, with a check valve, as a vacuum tank, to insure power brakes if needed.Plenty of room for that, under the hood.
If you want to play with engine temps, you can put a different thermostat, no thermostat or a restrictor in the therostat cover. Can't do that, i tried it on my "newer"car, an 89 Camaro, 2.8 multiport fuel injection. It threw a check engine light.
There are also a # of 'outhere'mods I want to do, which I can't do on the Camaro.Put a negative ion generator in the intake, for example. It would probably fry the computer.
Ceramic coat the tops of the cylinder, the faces of the valves, and the top of the pistons. Then, coat the top of the pistons with a thin layer of Palladium.Probably would confuse the computer, as it should result in complete combustion in the combustion chamber, where it will hopefully do some good.Ideally, will allow me to retard the timing some. Idealised goal, to Zero advance, although I'll take whatever I can get.
Also considering a lever in the cab, controlling a cable to the distributor, in order to idle down while coasting.Cars normally idle at an rpm that yields enough low end torque for starting out from a dead stop.Could idle lower than that, just for coasting and WHILE at a dead stop.May save enough to negate the need for turning the engine off.Lights about to turn green, slide the lever from 1 detent/stop, (for idle/standing still, say 300rpm) to the next, say 1000rpm the "normal' position.Might could do that with something like megasquirt, but this is, for me, a lot easier/cheaper.Jim
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