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Old 06-28-2009, 04:54 PM   #20 (permalink)
Christ
Moderate your Moderation.
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Troy, Pa.
Posts: 8,919

Pasta - '96 Volkswagen Passat TDi
90 day: 45.22 mpg (US)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taco View Post

4x4 fenders.
and also the 00.5 front also. in 00.5 2wd got the 4x4 front end and then redisgned in 2001, but the 01 hood will not work with your 96 front.with out a total swap. also with a 4 runner core support a 4 runner front will fit.

nah u took ownership too late for the warrenty. sorry.
That's alright, I'm going to get some spacers for the rear axle, and flip the balljoints on the front, level it out about 3" lower than it is now, and shorten the bumpstops in the rear, so I can still haul stuff with it, but it's lower.

If I don't need new sheet metal, I doubt I'll worry about fenders.

Now that I've got the head liner torn out (literally), and got a good look at what's going on with the windshield channel, there is only one spot that actually needs to be fixed to seal a windshield in there. Not a bad thing, at all.

I'm going to drill out all the spot welds across the brow line and take the reinforcement out, remove the inner a-pillar reinforcement, twist everything back into shape, and try to smooth it all back out. Shouldn't be too bad, although it won't be perfect. Passable, guaranteed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cfg83 View Post
Christ -



Why not a chop top to lower your Cd?

CarloSW2
I'm aiming for simplicity, above all. This is just a beater, for the time being, so that I can take Cara off the road and be able to swap, at leisure, the engine and transmission. Once I get Cara running again, and road legal, more can be done with The Taco!, including a possible EV Plugin hybrid.

At that point, I might consider raking the windshield line so that I can keep using the stock windshield, while lowering the angle between the hood line and windshield, which will also lower the upper line of the windshield in relation to the rest of the truck, so then I can cut down the rear windshield area, replace the rear glass with plexi, and I can probably get a good 2 inches lower than the OEM roof line, with no real modification to the truck, other than some cutting and welding!

For an EV hybrid, I thought about using a 2-piece driveshaft, with a dual-shaft electric motor between the two shafts. When there is no current, it will only induce as much drag as the weight and frictional losses from the bearings (negligible), but when I need extra power, or when I want to run EV only, I can throttle the E-Motor up and use it. (I'll use one that at full speed will only take me about 25 MPH, hopefully.)
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