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Don't hold your breath, ^_^
I've got a few water fountain solar pumps, I'm going to rip the panels and wire them directly into the battery to replace the power draw from the pumps(still lose the mechanical losses associated with the alt but still). The pump does a little over 1.2 GPM which my current one only does about .2-.3 GPM. So the fluid will be moving through the block much faster. I've got a spare water resevoir(that can hold the nominal pressure) and I'm going to put it in the now vacant area where the AC fins/compressor/fan was. Its got straight shot air exposure coming in from the front grill so it should cool a little while it sits there(its a 1.5 gallon tank opposed to the puny sub quart size resevoir I've got standard).
I'm also going to have to find the current leak in the cooling lines. It seems to have mostly stopped. . .but I definitely don't want to hook up with expensive cooling fluids just to have them pour out on my driveway(more expensive than water(anti-freeze has less cooling capacity than water)). It's mostly an alcohol water mixture that takes advantage of the interstitial placement of alcohol molecules between water molecules(more mass absorbs more heat).
A brief materials list to get this underway(I don't have much time for the project let alone to upload pictures and do you guys justice for the times you've informed me ^_^)
Current:
3 new pumps(Engine Oil cooler, Radiator(extraneous but prudent after some terrifying shifts and forgetting to drop resistance ^_^), pump for water injectors)
1 Large water resevoir(water injection to keep cylinder. valves, sparks cool)
2 Mister/Injectors(1 full time, 1 backup)
3 radiators (Engine, Trans, BM coolant radiator)
2 1000 ohm variable resistors(1 for MAP, 1 to get the O2 to read stoich all the time(You could do this with a regular static resistor. . .but I didn't want to fool with it. . .lazy ^_^))
Lots of switches(water pump, cooler pumps, MAP On/variable resistor on, Emergency Limp Switch(ELS). . .)
Planned:
1 more pump into coolant systems to rapidly move fluids
1 more multi gallon in loop resevoir for coolant
3 more injectors(One per cylinder one backup before the manifold break)
More than anything its terryfing lol. Its not natural habit to constantly monitor the temp gauges instead of the mph/tach and it requires [b]alot[/b[] more attention to make sure the "throttle" stays where its supposed to be. I imagine its alot more like a turboshaft engine would be. When I shut off the resistance the air is still getting sucked in through WOT. . .WONT(Wide Open No Throttle) and the cylinders are still very hot. Even under the idle and limp functions in the ECU its injecting enough fuel to keep it at high RPM if the clutch is engaged(1K+ and it starts to climb. . .as do the temperatures -_-). On the otherside of the coin when I drop the resistance the acceleration comes rather aggressively and quickly.
The most often problem I discovered in just a 3 mile loop is that I killed the engine frequently by accidently cutting the resistance and the engine hit an AFR that was too lean to run and died. Also the problem is obnoxious because at different RPMs the amount of fuel needed to just shut the engine to idle is variable so my idle mark doesn't always do it. . .
Its honestly like learning to drive stick for the first time ever. . .instead of having some new pedal called a clutch you've got a new nob called a "throttle."
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