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Alright I'm supposed to be mowing some hay. . .but its raining so I'm taking a break and slacking off.
Mike, I have no experience with piezoelectrics. The wiki informed me its something akin to a memory metal with electricity rather than heat. So I guess it replaces the pump? Or am I missing something on piezoelectric injectors? What failed on the unit was not the pump it was the actual nozzle. I am uninformed about them so its hard for me to speculate whether or not they would solve my problem.
Zero I checked the images. I haven't the foggiest on how to actually make that work for me. I'm sure it does, and I don't doubt the claims but I'm definitely not talented enough by myself to undertake such a large change that requires incredibly small tolerances.
Stevey, Yeah I had thought of piggying it onto an EGT sensor, but after sunday. . .saturday? I think I need the injectors to be AHEAD of the engine. I know it sounds stupid but I think I need to tie the injectors to the MAP sensor. If i tie in at the EGT its going to be probably 3-4 revolutions behind the air flow. Maybe more(probably more as the pump can't possibly change rate that fast) and after my very fortunate one piston catastrophe I'm tempted to run the the pump as close to locking up the engine as I can get(with excess water). The MAP is still completely intact and feeds to a DMM in the cabin so I could reroute it to the pump and that would keep it electronically about 4 inches of intake ahead of the actual engine. Probably not enough time for the pump to actually stay in step with the engine but it won't be semi-static like it is now and it would respond more quickly to runaways. Either way would definitely be an improvement on the high end of the RPM band where I'm currently not able to get to(probably not quick enough to adjust the flow rate and it gets ahead of me). Thanks for the input, Hadn't considered it just yet ^_^.
Shawn, Since its brought up again I'll go ahead and say I'm not a fan of extremely complicated engineering. I'm not a fan of the Nissan GTR, at all. Its complicated. I'm well aware and I'm tweaking something that was pretty simple and just got very much more ridiculous and is less reliable(obviously ^_^). On the other note the piston mess sitting out in my driveway was caused exclusively by heat. Det occurs most of the time around stoich and rich cylinders. Mine weren't even remotely close to that. Det occurs when the mixture in the cylinder has a very rich spot and it inundates the O2 and keeps it from igniting(gas is less flammable than O2 and has a higher octane rating). Eventually the pressure from the ignition event creates enormous temperature and the pocket of air ignites late(as far as we are concerned simultaneously but in absolute terms its picoseconds or whatever later than it should be causing the fuel to actually detonate(hence detonation) rather than burn). If the piston had cracked or splintered or anything or if I had been running it for a while and detonation had caused something in the engine to get too hot then it could have caused the pre-ignition. But thats definitely not the case. Det usually only kills high output engines and its a stretch to call my D series high output. Its nowhere near aggressive enough in any dimension to cause serious det problems and with far less fuel it puts it further and further from possibility.
You get two paragraphs ^_^. I do want to draw heat out of the motor and yes it is counter productive. My radiator does it and I'm trying to make it do it faster. I know carnot would call me an idiot, but carnot's engine doesn't melt and mine does. Surprisingly the crank case is a good bit cooler than the rest of the block, because Drag teams were worried about pulling near vacuum on the back of their pistons because it would overheat very quickly because there wasn't enough mass to ride out the temperature surges. Turned out the crank case stayed cool enough that it didn't matter. Even if its only 15 degrees cooler and I can cool 7 degrees its going to be worth it. Its also not all about my TE, its about my fuel efficiency(fuel strictly as gasoline). My engine is now about 1/4 as thermally efficient as it was, but it uses about 1/4 as much gasoline and still produces just and i mean just enough power to do what I need it to. I'll still have a rubbish Cd so I'm not looking at 100 mpg but maybe in the neighborhood of 50-60 up from 35.
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