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Old 08-04-2009, 05:31 PM   #20 (permalink)
Bicycle Bob
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: N. Saskatchewan, CA
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Appliance White - '93 Geo Metro 4-Dr. Auto
Last 3: 42.35 mpg (US)

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To open the hatch, you might operate a lever that does the final tightening of the connection. Or, just lift a lid with a rear or side hinge. If there is a lid, you need some serious framing. It might be better to just make a really convenient way to slide it back for access from the front. A lip at the bottom would make it a bin.

The example given of a red car with a horizontal boattail instead of a Kammback is not ideal for aero. The angle at the bottom should not be more than about 4 degrees because it only has a limited air supply, unlike the top. The angle shown is good for downforce, not mileage.

I would try using a continuous extension of the sheet material under the bumper to prevent independent roll motions, and use a tightening wedge or something to snug the rest of it to the body with a foam gasket. It is probably easier and lighter to just keep the bin full of foam or cargo than to get serious about an extra crumple zone. You can probably get used to the length, or else stick small antennas on the back corners so you can see them. Be sure to streamline them - round is awful.

In fiberglass work, hat sections are reinforcements added to a surface by laying wet cloth over a minimal mold, such as foam pipe insulation or a cardboard tube with a spiral slit in it. They are versatile, easy to do, and quite efficient if done with that in mind. To get the most out of them, use cloth strips cut on the bias, with a thick, narrow strip of unidirectional fiber at the top.
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