View Single Post
Old 09-23-2009, 06:39 PM   #13 (permalink)
Christ
Moderate your Moderation.
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Troy, Pa.
Posts: 8,919

Pasta - '96 Volkswagen Passat TDi
90 day: 45.22 mpg (US)
Thanks: 1,369
Thanked 430 Times in 353 Posts
Ok, I'm here - calm down. :P

Brakes - do them yourself. When I started doing car repairs, I learned brakes first. The backs will probably take you a bit, but the fronts shouldn't take more than 1/2 hour for both sides. Fluid exchange is a farce, if you can use your brakes, the fluid is fine. If you notice contamination, you can replace the fluid, but you do so with a vacuum pump, and it certainly doesn't cost more than $20 or so. You can also evacuate the fluid by draining the master cylinder, then adding new fluid and bleeding the brakes individually. The new fluid will evacuate the old fluid through the bleeder valves on each wheel cylinder/caliper.

NEVER flush your transmission unless you intend to rebuild it. Ask a Chrysler technician about it - it's been widely known that most flush places don't replace the filter, and the influx of new detergents in the fluid can wipe away the little bit of clutch wear surface you have left in your transmission if it's an older transmission. (Autos have clutches too)

If you do a drain and refill, You'll need something like 15 quarts of ATF+4 transmission fluid (Don't use anything that says "Multi-vehicle" on it.) ATF+4 is a full-synthetic fluid, and is the only recommended fluid for all Chrysler vehicles. You can get it from Wally World, buy the SuperTech brand. Regardless of what anyone else tells you, it's the same thing. If it has ATF+4 on the bottle, it's not an inferior product. There is a strict licensing agreement in place for all brands of ATF+4, which requires that they use the same formula of oils.

Tie-Rods - Jack up your car by the forward jack point on one side only, and set the emergency brake. Firmly grasp the front wheel with the steering wheel in the locked position, and give it a shake back and forth. (Left to right). If you feel excess movement laterally, you need to replace your tie-rods. This is called a "shake down". You can also shake up and down, or in any direction. If you note any movement under your own force, check to see what's moving, and replace whatever is worn. Alignment techs do the same thing, they're not magicians.

If you have to replace your tie rods or tie rod ends, do it yourself. They're not the cheapest parts, but the labor is a farce as well. I believe JOBS quotes 1 hour for a tie-rod end replacement, and the job actually takes about 20 mins, if that. The hardest part for the DIY'er is to remember how many threads the tie rod ends were screwed on, and screw the new ones on the same number. It's a quick and dirty way to ensure that you won't have screwed up your alignment, and leaves your vehicle operable until you can get to an alignment shop to have the alignment done.

Lastly - request specs on all the items they're asking to replace/repair, before they do the work. They'll still have it all on file for awhile, so ask to see the alignment check's report, the fluid condition report, and any other research they've done into the operating conditions of your vehicle. If they can't provide a written, detailed report of a fault, they have no place doing the work.
__________________
"¿ʞɐǝɹɟ ɐ ǝɹ,noʎ uǝɥʍ 'ʇı ʇ,usı 'ʎlǝuol s,ʇı"

  Reply With Quote