Quote:
Originally Posted by rmay635703
I seem to remember an individual I met claiming he converted his metro motor to diesel, he said the compression ratio was high enough to be left alone so long as it was WARM outside.
My estimate would be follow KISS.
Diesels have come many different ways dimensions strokes and compression ratios.
Leave your motor alone, replace the heads to a bit higher compression than you need which tends to hover in the 14to17-1 area depending on how warm it typically is), deal with the less than ideal bowl by placing the fuel intake/"injector" in a "mini" bowl (aka suido precombustion chamber) you bore out of the head and live with the less than perfectness being happy that it works with minimal work. Of coarse you will have to find some very thick heads to fit your unit.
The main issue is getting fuel into the motor at the right time, the rest is moot so long as the block doesn't overheat in the wrong place and break on you.
Good Luck
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That's just TOO easy.
It's known among rednecks that any gas engine will run on diesel once it's warmed up, and there have been (failed) engine designs that utilize spark ignition with oil fuels.
I've personally run diesel fuel (and kerosene) through an engine, when I ran out of gas, and it was all I had. There was enough gas in the lines to get it started again, it was already warm, and I just threw a couple gallon of diesel in the tank, and TOOK OFF as soon as the engine started. It ran a bit hotter than normal, but no damage, other than soot in the exhaust and I'm sure some carbon in the engine.
That's a Carb'd 302, though. I'd probably not be as willing to do it with a FI car.
The OEM head on that engine is iron, the block is iron, the crank is iron, so there's the three components that are usable. The pistons and rods, not so much. The pistons won't take the heat for very long, they're thin. The rods are pencils, from what I can remember. They might take the torque, but I might as well just get new ones matched to the pistons. (Maybe I'll try out the OEM ones first, though.)
SO maybe I just need pistons with a higher deck height on the stock rods. I'll have to check the actual dimensions to find out what will really work, though.
The spark plug holes in the head are like 1" long. I was going to hog out about 3/8" into them, then screw the injectors into those holes. They're angled into the cylinders, so they'll still get a non-uniform spray pattern, but it should work out. I won't be able to use glow plugs, though. I'll probably have to start it with some WD-40 or refined oil.