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Old 10-10-2009, 11:29 PM   #11 (permalink)
extragoode
EcoModding Apprentice
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 154

Nerdcycle - '81 Honda CM400E
Motorcycle
90 day: 61.16 mpg (US)

Trouble - '06 Kawasaki Ninja
90 day: 74.69 mpg (US)

Edna - '13 Nissan LEAF SV
Last 3: 126.4 mpg (US)

Tank - '20 Ford Expedition Limited
Last 3: 17.4 mpg (US)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christ View Post
Test the wiring first, if you have continuity through the length of the wire, get a JY solenoid and try it out. If that doesn't work, further diagnosis is required.

With the locking switch, if wired properly, and once you re-learn how to drive with it, there will actually be less lock/unlock cycles. Every time you let off your accelerator or hit the brakes, the TCC unlocks. If you have the switch wired properly, it won't unlock when you let off the accelerator to slow down a MPH or two (which you do more than you realize... trust me.), which lessens the cycles the TCC goes through.

It also allows for full-on engine braking, rather than slippage braking. If you engine brake, you'll want to try it out first in low speed situations, because if you leave the TCC lock engaged, it will hit hard and fast (which is actually better for automatics), and it may scare you.
You make this sound a lot more hard core than Joshua did. I'll still look into it and definitely ALWAYS test out any mods at low speed in an empty parking lot before trying them out in traffic. Would lock/unlock frequency thing still hold true if shift into neutral to coast further?

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