[Christ]

Frank, stock tie rod ends deflect on impact, spherical rod bearings don't.

Also, you don't need the tapered bolt, really. What you end up with is a normal bolt through the hole with a nut tightened to "godknowswhat" ftlbs. (I just use grade 8/10 bolts and an impact until it either breaks the bolt or stops turning them, then slap a torque wrench on there and make sure it's more than 150 ftlbs.)

EDIT: If you wanted the tapered bolt anyway, you'd need a welder and a hack saw - you cut your old tie-rod ends open and steal the taper and threaded section from it, then weld a stud to the top of it so that you have a place to bolt your rod end.

The way that the rod ends end up being seated, they're closer to the axis of impact, so less force is imparted on the bearing than would be with a traditional tie-rod end, which has nearly 1/2" or more between the contact with the knuckle and the bearing itself.

I use the setup on limited use cars, though. I can't vouch for wear/tear under normal street use, but it was what it was - a suggestion that I know to work after removal of PS components. None of my street cars have it done, because it's not necessary to me. I don't drive like a maniac with no PS and require instant steering feed back on the streets here at home. On the track, or even in a field, it's a different story.

I've also never had an OEM tie-rod end that was greaseable after my 1979 Plymouth Volare. They're all sealed units, as are ball joints and other similar components.