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Originally Posted by orange4boy
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Excellent! I always enjoy using the fruits of proven technology ... <GRINS>
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Originally Posted by orange4boy
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I like that idea better. 24V is better because it seems to be easier to find and implement a down converter than a boost converter. Also, I will need at least 2 batteries if the overhead is indeed 300+ watts. I'm not concerned about the extra weight because it's well known that cutting ICE electrical overhead outweighs the added weight of batteries. Ha Ha.
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My old man's brain may not always be the swiftest ... but occasionally even a blind pig finds an acorn. <GRINS>
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Originally Posted by orange4boy
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Questions to be answered assuming a 12V nominal system:
Will the lower voltage (under 13.5V) set codes?
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Once the car starts, the inverter provides enough voltage to run without a battery. Good Prius friend Hobbit performed that experiment.
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Originally Posted by orange4boy
. . . My guess is that it might if it gets too low. Prii with dying 12V batteries exhibit all kinds of strange behaviours. Although a dying battery will probably be sub 10V under load. The graham scanner sees 11.3 on mine with the hybrid system off so there seems to be some flexibility.
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That is the funny thing. We find intermittent problems that suddenly disappear when a good aux battery is installed. My OEM battery lasted until January of this year ... 4 years? I had to change it before flying to Detroit in January.
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Originally Posted by orange4boy
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I noticed, from the EWD that there seem to be quite a few different blocks or busses. I was thinking, If there was a simple way to keep the DC-DC happy by leaving it to run the ECU's, or at least the engine bus then it would be less likely to set any codes. I have noticed on my van that some sensors (eg. coolant temp) read low when the voltage gets low.
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All the right questions.
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Originally Posted by orange4boy
. . . What is the electrical efficiency of the THS from ICE (35%eff) to MG(?%Eff) to battery(?%Eff) to DC-DC(?%Eff) to 12V? How does it compare to a regular ICE(20%Eff) belt(?%Eff) Alternator(45%Eff) 12V?
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To the best of my knowledge, no one has done a through job of researching this. I have fuel consumption figures for my inverter setup but I've not tried to work the problem back to the source(s).
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Originally Posted by orange4boy
. . . Is the DC-DC a simple load based unit? Will it just supply what is asked of it and no more?
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Once I start drawing 1 kW, the voltage drops off keeping the 1 kW power but now with more amps and less volts.
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Originally Posted by orange4boy
. . . What happens to a stock Prius if the DC-DC goes offline while driving? If the car still operates then we know it would be possible to simply substitute the 12V supply. (better if 13.5V)
Will it be a simple/desireable thing to supply some blocks with 12V and some with the DC-DC?
Should I have a relay set up to switch between systems for long trips when the batteries get low?
Fun stuff.
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Fun stuff indeed! I've not tried that experiment but you are asking the right questions. <GRINS>
GOOD LUCK!
Bob Wilson