[mwebb]

...."Can I ask you exactly what did you do?
I have a Suzuki that has been suffering of a similar problem. It had an oil leak so I took it to the shop. And when I got my car back it start burning oil at start only (from what I can see). I took back the car to the shop but they said they didn't do anything wrong, only bad valves and bad coincidence.
Note that my car never smoked before..."....

what ever some one else may have done to "their" car
to solve "their" problem
is NOT relevant to your situation - or your problem on your 10 year old car with UNKNOWN service history and mileage.

for your 2000 suzuki ;
you need to have your engine tested by a competent shop
YOU will need to PAY for this SERVICE

first -
have "them" test;
intake vacuum at hot idle should be around 20" at sea level
steady smooth WITH NO FLUTTER at all
Hot 2k rpm 2" higher than idle value
and peak values at WOT snap followed by decel.
post results for translation -

any intake vacuum flutter at hot idle = "bad valves" , stop testing right there .
you can get a relative compression test using cranking current and or intake vacuum and or exhaust pressure pulses to begin
and possibly find an extreme problem ...
BUT
you will NEED the following to confirm actual engine condition -

you will need a "leak down test for each cylinder "
you will need to confirm that your PCV system is operating as designed
you will need to verify that your oil is not over filled and that
you are not loosing coolant out of the tail pipe

expect to to pay around 2 hours in labor
UNLESS
intake vacuum is fluttering at idle
or the relative compression tests reveal an extreme failure

very competent techs can record running compression pressure waveforms -
and can record pressure pulses in the crankcase measured at the oil stick tube , to quantify blowby per cylinder
AT WOT , Wide Open throttle .
but
you can arrive at a valid conclusion before getting that deep most of the time

expect printouts with waveforms to verify test results
thank me very much