Quote:
Originally Posted by PaleMelanesian
You really need some kind of MPG gauge to know whether it's working or not.
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I have
TWO gauges that tell me, the odometer and the gas gauge.
Listen, of course if you are shooting for the ultimate MPH, if you are a hypermiler Extra Large and want to squeeze every table spoon out, then you are correct. But when I simply fill up the tank and look at the odometer the next fill up and the EXACT amount of miles are there, that isn't doing ME any good.
Studying the suggestions on this forum and practicing them has helped me a LOT. I have done a number of tests and found that "normal" driving was costing me about three miles to the gallon. That isn't crazy dumb ars driving which would cost you even more. Just "normal" accelerating up to lights and crap like that. That means that with some simple hypermiling I am able to get four days of driving to work FREE. This is without putting it in neutral, simply taking my frigging foot off the friggin gas.
It's amazing how much that will do, like they old comedy routine about the single mom with six kids.
It's rated R so I can't say it by you may have an idea, "just put it down" the guy said.
I just simply take my foot off the friggin throttle more than I put it on, and it works great.
Now, the putting it in neutral IS amazing in how far that damn car will roll! It is absolutely amazing how far it will roll! But in super anal hypermiling with my head all full of timing signal lights and anticipating other drivers movements and the like, I didn't see a "measurable" difference from simply taking my foot off the friggin throttle!
I have also done an little time study on my daily commute that is eye opening to the anti-hypermiler.
After taking a co-worker to pickup a customers car and having him crying and moaning about how much time we were taking because of my hypermiling I started a log on how much time it took me to drive to work hypermiling verse driving normal. On an average it saved NOTHING to drive faster! Literally within error (2 tenths of a minute, 12 seconds!)
And once again, I have proven you can't drive faster than traffic, it is a feels good myth.
Sooooooo, once again, I'll be coasting in neutral with my other car that has a manual trans, I will be doing plenty of testing with it as well, but coasting isn't going to hurt it one bit.
On my SHO, I got pretty good at it in knowing when I could put it back in drive where you didn't even feel it. I did it a LOT, and got good. But still felt that it's gain was far too small for it's possible cost. The transmission is just not designed to do this.
The engine speed drops almost 400 RPM with it in neutral so you would think there is going to be a big difference, but I just didn't see it. I assume that even though the RPM may be at 1200 vs 800 in neutral there is no load so the computer isn't adding fuel? I mean, in todays cars with the computer managed motor it is pretty hard to outsmart it.
Brian