[Christ]

Yeah, it's a 4.9. I can't view those pics unless I sign up.. and I'm no woodsman, my friend. Mind posting them here as well?

I was thinking yesterday that if I remove the PS and AC, I can just run a shorter belt up so that it comes over to the tensioner from the top of the water pump, and the tensioner might have enough pull to keep it tight that way. That would require a longer belt, though, than what would be necessary if I were only driving the water pump, AIR pump, and alternator from the crank, with a tensioner on that side... longer belt = more drag, from what I'm told... negligible, but why add it if you don't have to?

Also, as to your "having to crank twice to start it"... yeah, I have to do that too. I've never checked the timing since I put the dizzy that I rebuilt in. I guess I should do that at some point... I'm getting lazy, I guess.


Frank - I changed the passenger side rubber line. I believe it was internally swelled, but nevertheless, it actually broke completely, leaving a pint or so of fluid under the truck. I now have brakes again, but they're still kinda soft, even after bleeding all four corners completely down to brand new fluid (draw through bleeding, then pressure bleeding). Essentially, they're back to what they were before they failed, so they work, and work well enough, but I'd like a tighter pedal. I'm going to eliminate the RABS system completely, so maybe that will "fix" the issue? I know they've been known to be troublesome... eventually I'm going to rear discs anyway.